[Runnin'Rich]

Originally Posted by k90

Appreciated! Guy said the donor went into cube already and I'm only getting the units I requested without connectors.

Does "61131393724 Socket terminal MQS 0,5-0.75 MM²/SN" go with LDM connector?

Can LDM connection be branched without cutting into CANH, CANL, 15WUP?

Browsed through the thread but cannot tell if I saw information about brancing from excisting connector to LDM.

**Edit: There is FRM method in ~page3 where pins are pulled from FRM(with adaptive headlights only) for making branching.

61131393724 is the most commonly used female pin used all over the car for different connectors. This is what the LDM uses.

I’m not sure what you mean about branching from the LDM?
The LDM needs both can wires and I think the 15WUP ignition wire too. CAN is tappable at the FRM with active headlights. Without active headlights you’re tapping CAN at the JBBF junction box like I did.
It’s over a year ago now I did the job, memory is getting hazy

[k90]

Originally Posted by Runnin'Rich

61131393724 is the most commonly used female pin used all over the car for different connectors. This is what the LDM uses.

I’m not sure what you mean about branching from the LDM?
The LDM needs both can wires and I think the 15WUP ignition wire too. CAN is tappable at the FRM with active headlights. Without active headlights you’re tapping CAN at the JBBF junction box like I did.
It’s over a year ago now I did the job, memory is getting hazy

Thanks again!

Should buy a full bag/roll/sheet of 61131393724 and the pins too. Looks totally 100% similar than some corroded contacts I had in VAG car. I bet those go everywhere.

Finnished the LDM installation by friday midnight. Left me sore and my right hand full of bleeding cuts. It's a full body experience. Now I have $544 and maybe will upgrade to $541. Should be easy.

I did branching harness to FRM PT_CAN wires using those universal 3pos socket and plug for original contacts to attach to branching harness that then goes to FRM and LDM.
For 15WUP I decided otherwise. Not using socket and plug but instead naked contacts with heat shrink on top. Branching wire lenghts were carefully measured in order for the contact to fold and stay right under the plug covering cap. When the wire bundle is zip tied it the contact cannot back out from there.

NOTES:

• Do not use 500/700V rated wire or you are going to have bad time. Needed to shave those PVC insulations in order to fit propperly in plugs. Not only you need the right gauge, but also right insulation.
  
• LDM needs 2x 4.8mm screws. 07147129160(this is for ie. inner fenders/wheel liners to bolt into bumper) could be modified by grinding and hammering off the washer and replacing with small one. EDIT: 07147154286 is the screw.
  
• You might just want to remove FRM in order to have more room to play with the PT_CAN.
  
• Driver seat must come off in order to bend floor cover to access grounding points. Before unplugging battery and pulling all the modules it's rather easy to open 4 bolts. Also I would imagine accessing FRM connectors would be way easier if floor cover is not binded down by driver seat rails.
  
• Grounding point on driver side footwell has special long contacts. I had just right width(2.9mm did the job) generic contacts, but it was not ideal for ease of installation because of depth of the plastic cage around the grounding comb sheet. Also special locking mechanism provided by the plastic cage was not utilized. EDIT: check this 61131387142
  
• BCM under junction box has a wide plug behind it. In order to unplug it you need to push handle at right edge of connector to right hard while pulling unscrewed and unlocked(2 locking hooks at top) BCM. Actually you might need to push the handle against black plastic liner at right side by such force it displaces the plastic liner. When installing the connector needs to be all the way to left and even partially inside the BCM mount while keeping pressure to handle to right.
  
• The big red wire is likelly zip tied somewhere behind junction box. If the contact flange doesn't lift, but just springs back to bottom then look up from footwell to check for zip ties.
  
• Sourcing electric contacts, plugs, housings from e-shops/ebay/whatnot might not be the best option. In my case local Bavaria had almost everything in stock and ordered parts took just couple of days to arrive. Price was also mostly less than from alternative sources.
  

Attached a photo of hole/cut drilled into heater blower housing mounting flange.

[335xs2dinan]

Does anyone have a good source for the ACC sensor? Im looking into this retrofit on my pre lci e92 335xi. I see used sensors in what looks like rough condition for $699 and new from ecs tuning for $4k!!!

This is a longshot but Bosch also makes the sensors for cars like the Jeep Grand Cherokee and ebay has new ones for the Jeep at $400. The ACC sensor and the wire connection look similar but the bracket for mounting looks different. If someone else has explored this or knows a good source please post.

[k90]

Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan

Does anyone have a good source for the ACC sensor? Im looking into this retrofit on my pre lci e92 335xi. I see used sensors in what looks like rough condition for $699 and new from ecs tuning for $4k!!!

This is a longshot but Bosch also makes the sensors for cars like the Jeep Grand Cherokee and ebay has new ones for the Jeep at $400. The ACC sensor and the wire connection look similar but the bracket for mounting looks different. If someone else has explored this or knows a good source please post.

Interesting. It is the same hardware. Good chance is that it's identical hardware. But nevertheless it would require BMW variation of the firmware?

Requires module flashing guru statement. Get it in bootloader mode or something to get it to swallow BMW firmware?

[nibbtastic]

Originally Posted by hupchye

Yes. ACC radar sensor can sense object all the time now like Stop&Go in E60.

Considering the progress made and having gotten this working in several cars now, is there any possibility of opening this up for use with the E60/61/65 and or E70/71 sensors? They seem to be far more available and affordable.

And aside from that, will Stop&Go (or ACC in general) work with custom/standalone Transmission SW/Controllers? Currently, sourcing parts for a 335xd 8HP build.

[pmorg4]

Originally Posted by k90

Finnished the LDM installation by friday midnight. Left me sore and my right hand full of bleeding cuts. It's a full body experience. Now I have $544 and maybe will upgrade to $541. Should be easy.

Thanks for your write up. I already have ACC installed in my E91 330i pre-LCI, but having recently purchased an E91 335i LCI I'm in the process of reverting the 330i to stock (which is $544 on the 330i) and transferring across to the 335i. Unfortunately the 335i being LCI does not have the LDM otherwise the job would have been relatively easy, now I have additional work to add the LCM and connect up to the PT-CAN lines.

I'm fortunate that my car has adaptive headlights to access to PT-CAN lines is relatively easy, but it looks like getting access to the grounding points is going to be a pain. I might investigate whether there is an alternative ground available that might be less hassle - as I'm running the harness to the ACC in the engine compartment anyway I might add a ground wire to the harness and share the ground used with the ACC sensor. I can't see that it would cause any issues, it's not like the CAN wires where interference can be of concern.

[colorado.e9x]

I didn't think about using the adaptive headlights for PT CAN. Do you have an idea of where you'll be splicing into that? Sounds like it would stay in the engine bay.

Ground is ground. I would just use one of the stock ground locations or find a good spot on the chassis with a stud and sand the base down little

[k90]

Originally Posted by pmorg4

Thanks for your write up. I already have ACC installed in my E91 330i pre-LCI, but having recently purchased an E91 335i LCI I'm in the process of reverting the 330i to stock (which is $544 on the 330i) and transferring across to the 335i. Unfortunately the 335i being LCI does not have the LDM otherwise the job would have been relatively easy, now I have additional work to add the LCM and connect up to the PT-CAN lines.

I'm fortunate that my car has adaptive headlights to access to PT-CAN lines is relatively easy, but it looks like getting access to the grounding points is going to be a pain. I might investigate whether there is an alternative ground available that might be less hassle - as I'm running the harness to the ACC in the engine compartment anyway I might add a ground wire to the harness and share the ground used with the ACC sensor. I can't see that it would cause any issues, it's not like the CAN wires where interference can be of concern.

I looked and there is not much to connect ground to. Just smooth steel tubes and wire bundles. Maybe from right under the mounting flange of LDM as it mounts into this steel sheet part of dashboard frame structure. Bet that frame is connected with like 6 bolts to chassis.

Running a ground wire all way from bumper to cabin doesn't sound like a good practice.
In case of LDM ofc. there is nothing connected to the module but PT-CAN+15WUP and power use of the module must be minimal. So the return path lenght might not matter that much. But nevertheless not ideal.

TIP: If you go for the comb ground strips just unbolt one of them. Makes it much easier to push the socket terminal in. Narrow small pliers / micro pliers / electronics pliers recommended.

Broke my entrance strip on driver side when installing it back.
Now I know the corners need to hook into adjacent panels first then the strip is just rolled down to the 4 holes made for the retaining clips and pressed down from 4 points and pops 4 times.

[pmorg4]

Thanks for your advice.

I've been busy with other things so haven't yet started the wiring for my ACC, but hopefully I can make a start this week. My plan is to feed the loom through from the engine bay, then mount the LDM and connect power to the fuse board. At that point I'll see what options are available regarding the ground connection.

I need a few more parts (pins etc) before I can wire the PT-CAN and wake-up signals, but that should be straightforward once everything is in the right place. The final step will be removal of the bumper and mounting the sensor.

[colorado.e9x]

According to the diagrams, theres 15WUP (LDM) and 15WUP_AC (CAS). Anyone know the difference? With 06 cars having the LDM already, would it be possible to just tap into the LDMs harness for both the wake up and PT CAN lines?

Edit: and for those of you that got the harness with one extra wire and extra connector, did you shorten it at all? It seems like theres a lot of extra length that isn't needed

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOkU6mK

[dumitru.o]

You should tap only the right signals. 15wup from CAS and the one from the LDM are different and ahould not be mixxed or miused. Just connect the wirring according to the diagram, that means don t try to tap the 15wup from CAS when you need the one from LDM. It s not the same thing

As for wiring , have a look on this

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=29727638

[k90]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

According to the diagrams, theres 15WUP (LDM) and 15WUP_AC (CAS). Anyone know the difference? With 06 cars having the LDM already, would it be possible to just tap into the LDMs harness for both the wake up and PT CAN lines?

Edit: and for those of you that got the harness with one extra wire and extra connector, did you shorten it at all? It seems like theres a lot of extra length that isn't needed

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOkU6mK

Frankly it's easier and less work to just install one socket terminal to empty slot of CAS connector than branch 15WUP. Branching is tedious work. AND you need 15WUP_AC.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by k90

Frankly it's easier and less work to just install one socket terminal to empty slot of CAS connector than branch 15WUP. Branching is tedious work. AND you need 15WUP_AC.

I don't mind splicing into wires it doesn't take much effort. I have to splice into ptcan anyways. Hardest part is being cramped in the footwell lol. It'd be much cleaner if possible. ImThe harness came with a 3 pin connector which is perfect. Wakeup, ptcan high, pt can low

From all the LDM retrofits I seen they use the CAS wakeup for both it and the ACC. What's the difference?

Edit: I have a stock LDM (06) & xenon afs headlights

[hupchye]

Originally Posted by nibbtastic

Considering the progress made and having gotten this working in several cars now, is there any possibility of opening this up for use with the E60/61/65 and or E70/71 sensors? They seem to be far more available and affordable.

And aside from that, will Stop&Go (or ACC in general) work with custom/standalone Transmission SW/Controllers? Currently, sourcing parts for a 335xd 8HP build.

Unfortunately, all the interested members had dropped this retrofit due to its difficulties and complexity (ACC/Stop&Go in 4cyl E9x).

And from the current philosophy of hacking E9x LDM & ACC CAN Bus IDs to achieve ACC/Stop&Go in 4cyl E9x, it would be more difficult (but possible) to use with the E60/61/65 and or E70/71 sensors as they use different bus (S-Bus) and might use different CAN Bus IDs to communicate with PT-CAN.

"And aside from that, will Stop&Go (or ACC in general) work with custom/standalone Transmission SW/Controllers?"
I don't understand your question...

As Stop&Go in my E92 still not perfect without SRR, I am currently in progress of integrate a 0-12M LIDAR sensor as SRR.

[dumitru.o]

is this diagram from e6x? i know the E7x has the LRR and SRR in the same module

[hupchye]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

is this diagram from e6x? i know the E7x has the LRR and SRR in the same module

Yes, it is diagram from E6x.
And I discovered that LRR can only sense moving object +/-30km/h relative speed to it. Microwave radar sensor can only sense moving object, not stationary object. That's why I want to use LIDAR as SRR.

[dumitru.o]

why don t you try to use the sensor from e7x?

[hupchye]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

why don t you try to use the sensor from e7x?

My design concept is by hacking and translate existing Can IDs to make ACC+Stop&Go to work. E7x use different LDM and ACC on S-CAN bus. I don't have a working E7x to sniff out all the CAN IDs in order to translate them into E9x CAN IDs. Furthermore, ACC require calibration under working car condition. It is kind of start over again.

[nibbtastic]

Originally Posted by hupchye

’And aside from that, will Stop&Go (or ACC in general) work with custom/standalone Transmission SW/Controllers?’
I don't understand your question...

I plan on using a CANTCU for an 8HP swap as parts are accrued within the next year or two.

[hupchye]

Originally Posted by nibbtastic

I plan on using a CANTCU for an 8HP swap as parts are accrued within the next year or two.

Stop&Go or ACC ECUs (LDM,LRR,SRR) does not talk to TCU. They mainly communicate with DME, DSC & KOMBI.

[colorado.e9x]

dumitru.o regarding my previous question on 15WUP, I'm a bit confused by some previous replies.

dumitru.o-
"15wup from CAS and the one from the LDM are different and should not be mixed or misused. Just connect the wiring according to the diagram, that means don t try to tap the 15wup from CAS when you need the one from LDM. It s not the same thing"

k90-
"Frankly it's easier and less work to just install one socket terminal to empty slot of CAS connector than branch 15WUP. Branching is tedious work. AND you need 15WUP_AC."


Now, here is a snippet I grabbed from an e60 forum. Slightly different with the chassis as well as they are trying to retrofit stop & go.
-
"The LRR and LDM control unit are supplied by the CAS control unit with their own wake-up line that is electrically decoupled from the usual wake-up line. This solution was selected, as the long-range sensor is fitted in a zone that is subject to the risk of accident (vehicle front). If the wake-up line of the LRR were to be damaged in the event of an accident (e.g. short circuit to earth), this solution limits the effects on other control units."

"When installing the cruise control I missed this paragraph and took common activation from body module KGM with PT-CAN bus through 3-pin connector. Error contributed to the fact that activation signal is indicated as 15WUP on original wiring scheme instead of 15WUP_AC on CAS wiring scheme. The colour of activation wire was indicated as white, whereas it has red/green colour on other schemes. I used red/green instead of white, thinking the white colour is a mistake. Not least because the wiring in the engine compartment in this case will have two wires of the same colour (white), but they have different meaning, so their identification will be difficult. Later I held a separate activation wire from CAS (this time the white) to LDM. It's not possible to replace existing red/green activation wire in the engine compartment harness and does not make sense. Which colour to use - it's your decision."

People are using the empty slot on the CAS model for 15WUP. Or is it 15WUP_AC? Either way, they're using it to power the LDM and ACC. If that is the case, those with an LDM that comes stock with their vehicle should be able to tap the 15WUP that is already wired to it, for their ACC. Would that not be the case?

[dumitru.o]

i don t understand why people don t just follow the diagram. that is the best solution and the correct one.
if you want to improvise and install modules from other chassis, then see which signal was getting the module on it s original chassis ( 15WUP from CAS or 15WUP from LDM or a direct Terminal 15 from fuse).
this discussion about where to tap the 15wup is just a waste of time in my opinion. just follow the diagrams.
there are thigs way harder to do than 15wup line, that is where you need to focus.