[bimmermech123]

Originally Posted by Socket

No. the monoballs have been great.... well worth doing

Have you hit any deep potholes and noticed any adverse effects? My main concern with the monoballs is that without any give, something will bend if you hit a pothole hard enough.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by bimmermech123

Have you hit any deep potholes and noticed any adverse effects? My main concern with the monoballs is that without any give, something will bend if you hit a pothole hard enough.

I think you might be a confused. Monoballs have much more flex then solids

[Socket]

Still working on my audio tune

Today, trying to get the time alignment of each of the speaker pairs dialed in. Unfortunately you can't measure impulse responses and phase using a usb mic like the umik1. To do sweep measurements, you need a reference and a measurement mic, so finally purchased all the bits needed, include a Behringer UMC202HD and the associated cables. In short you connect a powered mic to the input of the Behringer, connect the output to the input of the DSP. Then connect the Behringer to a laptop with a copy of Holmimpulse or REW. Run a sweep and measure each speaker, then adjust the delays on the DSP to get the measurements to line up with each other. Well its a little more complicated then that but the music is crisper and more focused then before. Still not perfect though, so more work to do

[bimmermech123]

Originally Posted by Socket

I think you might be a confused. Monoballs have much more flex then solids

To clarify, I'm talking about the fore/aft movement of the arm under braking and acceleration. Monoballs offer excellent articulation of the arm in all directions, but in heavy braking or acceleration, the force that would normally be absorbed by the bushing is transferred to the chassis, as can be seen in this video:

I'm just wondering if you have seen any adverse effects of running monoballs on rough roads.

[Socket]

Nope, have been very happy with them

[Socket]

Have not had much to post about for a while, but today I decided to ditch the metal tweeter pods and carve up the A pillars. Hardest part of building tweeters into the A pillars is mounting the speakers in just the right location. A combination of blue tack, ice cream sticks and hot melt glue did the trick..... Does not look pretty but it is just a shell to coat with fiberfill

Ill post a few more pics as I complete this mini project

[Socket]

Now coated with fibrefill which dries rock hard. Does not look pretty but needs sanding and many more coats of filler..... and sanding, so much sanding

[Socket]

So finally got the A pillars finished and install. Trimming these things is a massive pinta. The flat sections are easy but, getting it to wrap around the curved parts of the speaker pods is crazy difficult to get it flat without wrinkles. They will need to be sent to a professional to be redone. Anyhow they are installed and ready for some EQ work

[Socket]

So finally making a start on installing the AE 15" subs. First task is to rip out all the amps and wiring, because the subs wont fit with the amps in their current location.

With everything removed, the next task is to build the baffle. It needs to be bolted securely to the chassis and to fit snug so air cant leak from the boot to cabin

Started by making a rough guide out of cardboard and then one out of scrap MDF.... When happy with the fitment, I then cut the baffle out of 25 mm ply and test fitted....

Not perfect but pretty good

Work continues tomorrow

[Socket]

Day two working on the baffle. Made up a test baffle to cut holes and test fitment etc before cutting the real baffle. Then had to cut a second baffle out of 18mm ply and bond them together to get something super rigid so it wont flex when the subs are playing full tilt..... 16 hrs just to make a board with two holes in it

[Socket]

with the main baffle built, all the gaps around the sides need to be sealed. So built wings on both side using a zigsaw puzzle technique. Lots of measuring, cutting, test fitting but got there in the end. Once done, then had to work out the mounting points
When pressed into place its pretty solid, so didnt need to go nuts on mounting. Decided to use the parcel shelf rail to secure the top of the baffle using M6 bolts and two brackets that bolt into the chassis at the bottom.
Finally some fiberfill to add some strength and then some trimming (black one side and grey the other)..... Pretty happy with the end result, not professional but ok for a hack

Still need to redo the amp rack, all the wiring, lighting and trim panels so a fair bit to do before its done, but one step closer

Pics below

Pic 1 - Baffle with side wings
Pic 2 - Fits perfectly
Pics 3 and 4 - Mounting points
Pic 5 - Glued up and ready to trim
Pics 6 & 7 - Trimming in progress
Pic 8 - Done

[Socket]

So spent most of the day bolting the zapco monoblock to the underside of the parcel shelf. Not an easy task to do without help

Not much room for error, so I made up a template to make sure the bolt holes were drilled in the correct location and still managed to have them off center by a few mills making everything harder to do (aka holding the amp up in the air while trying to thread bolts and screw on nuts with the other hand).... much swearing took place

After the amp was finally bolted down, next was mounting the subs to the baffle using M5 bolts. Will the speakers bolted onto the baffle the thing weighed a ton, which took more swearing to get it into place and secured

Finally got everything locked down and super solid phew, next job is to reinstall the dsp, amps and redo all the wiring

[kookie]

Looking really good. Can't wait to have a listen to it.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by kookie

Looking really good. Can't wait to have a listen to it.

anytime mate... well anytime after I get it all put back together lol

[Socket]

With the subs install, its time to throw in the amps and wire everything up.... First task was to cut out a floor panel and mount the amps. 2 x Helix C fours to run the tweeters, mids, midbass and rear fill and a Helix C One for the front sub. The two AE15s are powered by a Zapco 1100.1 bolted under the parcel shelf.. Then about 200m of wiring and its good to go

[Socket]

Subs play and rattle the parcel shelf so I will need to do some reinforcement to stop that but at least they make noise... grabbed the laptop and the mic and did a quick full range measure (see RTA below)

These Acoustic Elegance SBP15s play all the way up to 1500 HZ which is amazing ..... most subs play maybe up to 100 - 150 Hz so anything above 1000Hz is just nuts.... had to check that the measurements were correct but apparently these AEs will play this high.... Probably not interesting to anyone out there other then audio nuts hahah.... anyway next task is to get the tweeters installed again and to start on a tune .... meanwhile work begins on the next engine mod

[Socket]

MOD 135 - BOTTOM MOUNT ST

Here at Vince's workshop redoing the ST again. This time we are going for a yoda motorsports bottom mount. Reusing the core of the 7670 but pretty everything else needs rebuilding. Vince as always is doing all the work, I am lucky to watch the master at work and hand him the tools. Will post pics as the project progresses

[kookie]

Ummmm when did upgrading the speakers turn into bottom mount big turbo conversion.

[jzx_andy]

Looks like Vince's new lowmount kit! Good stuff man.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by kookie

Ummmm when did upgrading the speakers turn into bottom mount big turbo conversion.

It called parallel modding Kookie, very advance state of modding where two or more mods being undertaken at once

[Socket]

Originally Posted by jzx_andy

Looks like Vince's new lowmount kit! Good stuff man.

Very well spotted sir, time to finally address the waste gate clamping and V band leak problem in one foul sweep... maybe an over the top approach to fault fixing but hey ho

[Brule]

Parrallel modding is good.