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      10-17-2016, 11:51 AM   #4951
BSM n54iS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorrismm View Post
I have had my 2011 'is' for about 4 years now. It has always opened the top by holding the unlock and closing the top by holding the close on the fob.

Within the past couple of weeks it stopped opening, however if the tops is already open I can press the lock button and it will still close with the remote.

Only thing I have noticed is I received a message on the console that there is an battery drain from a external source. I have checked to make sure the radar and any devices plugged into the lighter are removed.

Since I started working from home now I rarely drive the car anymore so it sits sometimes a month or so without being driven or started. I know I need to drive it and enjoy it more ;-) also obsessed with keeping low miles.

Has anyone experienced anything like this?

Thank You
At the very least hook up a battery charger if you are letting it sit that long
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      10-17-2016, 01:25 PM   #4952
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I had them for about 50k miles. One cracked and started leaking, then another...

I never really hit any major potholes or rocks. These things are just a bit fragile.

Good luck with yours!

Greg
Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
How long did you have the 225M's for? I recall most people that were reporting problems were in Europe. I've had the 225M's for 35K. So far so good
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      10-17-2016, 04:48 PM   #4953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black n54is View Post
At the very least hook up a battery charger if you are letting it sit that long
Yep I have a battery tender on my sport truck 2000 GMC with 39K miles, since that never gets driven and I will now get one for the BMW 2011 also with 39K miles.

Update: I took it for a nice hour drive and when I got back it started working again. These cars are smart to shut down services when the battery is draining I suppose. Good to know that what it was. Strange it would let me close but no open. I suppose closing is more critical then opening. pretty cool. Thanks.
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      10-17-2016, 11:21 PM   #4954
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My DRL flicker when i press the unlock button. anyone else experience this?
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      10-18-2016, 12:31 AM   #4955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
How long did you have the 225M's for? I recall most people that were reporting problems were in Europe. I've had the 225M's for 35K. So far so good
Just hit 40k on a '11 335is (bought with 32k) and found the left rear 225m cracked in 6 places. Also found 4 cracks in the right rear that were JB welded by PO.
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      10-18-2016, 09:20 AM   #4956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkb4cereal View Post
Just hit 40k on a '11 335is (bought with 32k) and found the left rear 225m cracked in 6 places. Also found 4 cracks in the right rear that were JB welded by PO.
Can people stop saying this to me, I'm shitting my pants that my beautiful 225M wheels are going to crumble.
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      10-18-2016, 02:48 PM   #4957
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Damn, not what I wanted to hear. Crossing my fingers.
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      10-19-2016, 07:37 PM   #4958
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My 2013 Le mans blue with Oyster/black interior 335is :-)
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      10-19-2016, 08:09 PM   #4959
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Originally Posted by PalestineM3 View Post
My 2013 Le mans blue with Oyster/black interior 335is :-)
nicee... now tune it.
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      10-19-2016, 08:13 PM   #4960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MannySingh View Post
nicee... now tune it.
I was actually going to reply to your post about the flickering. I haven't had them flicker but i unlocked it once and all the lights started spazzing out. Angel eyes going on and off tail lights and turn signals going on and off I guess he was excited to see me lmao. I actually have some plans in mind.... Do you have any suggestions? I head jb4 causes some issues I'm not sure which direction to head with this one.
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      10-20-2016, 01:31 AM   #4961
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FYI to 335is owners, I just got $$$ from bmw for new injectors on my '11 335is. Check it if you haven't already.

http://www.bmw-rp.com/

Source: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1209808
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      10-20-2016, 02:34 AM   #4962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PalestineM3 View Post
I was actually going to reply to your post about the flickering. I haven't had them flicker but i unlocked it once and all the lights started spazzing out. Angel eyes going on and off tail lights and turn signals going on and off I guess he was excited to see me lmao. I actually have some plans in mind.... Do you have any suggestions? I head jb4 causes some issues I'm not sure which direction to head with this one.
From what I know if you have the DCT should do a flash tune, MHD has been really popular latley. But I also have seen people who have a flash tune for everything but then just control their boost with jb4.

I personally just use the MHD flash tune.

Catless DP, FMIC, and chargepipe so far.

Im planning on upgrading to new turbos because the stockers are gone so Ill probably get my lpfp and inlets then.
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      10-20-2016, 02:36 AM   #4963
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Hey guys, do any of you know if the Canadian versions of 2011 335is have the launch control option enabled? I've tried countless times to get it going with no luck 😔 Also, currently running Cobb stage 1 sport ST tune; wondering if running the aggressive version would cause any issues?

I've been told that the aggressive version is based on 93 US octane fuel. Here in Canada we have 94 octane but again, been told that's equivalent to US 91 octane. Can any of you help clear this up? Much appreciated 👍

Last edited by Hades777; 10-20-2016 at 02:40 AM.. Reason: More content
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      10-20-2016, 03:13 AM   #4964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hades777 View Post
Hey guys, do any of you know if the Canadian versions of 2011 335is have the launch control option enabled? I've tried countless times to get it going with no luck 😔 Also, currently running Cobb stage 1 sport ST tune; wondering if running the aggressive version would cause any issues?

I've been told that the aggressive version is based on 93 US octane fuel. Here in Canada we have 94 octane but again, been told that's equivalent to US 91 octane. Can any of you help clear this up? Much appreciated 👍
Hit the DTC button once, put into m1+Sport button...Firmly hold break and floor the gas until you click the kickdown...But if youre tuned i dont recommend launching from 5k....

And im not sure if you flash has over-righted the feature or not
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      10-20-2016, 03:44 AM   #4965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MannySingh View Post
Hit the DTC button once, put into m1+Sport button...Firmly hold break and floor the gas until you click the kickdown...But if youre tuned i dont recommend launching from 5k....

And im not sure if you flash has over-righted the feature or not
So just tried that and the part I wasn't doing before was click the kickdown. However, even now, I didn't get the checkered flag on the display and my rpm's just went up to 1500ish. Once a released the brake, there was a momentary lag and then it would just "launch". Not sure if that's it or....?
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      10-20-2016, 03:48 AM   #4966
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Never mind, I'm a dumbass haha. I didn't have it in M1....just tried again and checkered flag came up!! 👍👍👍 Why not launch from 5k if tuned and is there a way to adjust that? Thanx very much for your help 😁
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      10-20-2016, 03:57 AM   #4967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hades777 View Post
Never mind, I'm a dumbass haha. I didn't have it in M1....just tried again and checkered flag came up!! 👍👍👍 Why not launch from 5k if tuned and is there a way to adjust that? Thanx very much for your help 😁
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      10-20-2016, 04:19 AM   #4968
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Originally Posted by MannySingh View Post
Awesome man, so basically for the wheel spin more than anything else if I'm not mistaking right? Again, I really appreciate your help
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      10-20-2016, 09:49 AM   #4969
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Well it looks like style 225m's tend to have issues. Those who had the car longer are the 313s holding up better?

And out of curiosity, after a cold start when do you all actually push the car? I tend to baby it and keep the rpms low until the oil temp gauge is at least at 200 degrees which is about a 7 to 10 min local drive.
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      10-20-2016, 10:06 AM   #4970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsyed07 View Post
Well it looks like style 225m's tend to have issues. Those who had the car longer are the 313s holding up better?

And out of curiosity, after a cold start when do you all actually push the car? I tend to baby it and keep the rpms low until the oil temp gauge is at least at 200 degrees which is about a 7 to 10 min local drive.
I baby mine as much as safely possible up to at least 160 but I don't go WOT until it's 220.

Also my wheels have no cracks but they do have slight bends not noticeable to the human eye. I've been keeping an eye on them.
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      10-20-2016, 03:24 PM   #4971
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^I've personally seen people both enthusiast and those that don't have a clue go WOT right after the cold start rpm drops to normal idle. Hurts to see it happen and that's how you get early turbo failures.
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      10-21-2016, 02:43 AM   #4972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hades777 View Post
Awesome man, so basically for the wheel spin more than anything else if I'm not mistaking right? Again, I really appreciate your help
You can break your driveshaft i believe from launching to hard.
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