[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by justpete

LOL

BTW, the Accusump valve power comes from somewhere that turns off when the car's locked, like it does for the aux power sockets which may be the tap they connected to given the relay is buried somewhere under the middle of the dash. So that's good news anyway.

It would have to be I'd imagine, that way it's not a constant draw on the battery. That's good news though.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

It would have to be I'd imagine, that way it's not a constant draw on the battery. That's good news though.

Well, you'd think. Just ran an OBDII scan to see if 7/8 monitors are ready and it came back on when I unlocked the car but this time I didn't latch it off and it doesn't go off when I lock the car which is weird, or it hasn't so far. It's on a tender so I can see how long it takes, if at all, without risk.

In normal operation I'd hit the kill switch every time I stop the engine so that'd remove the possibility of it being a drain on the battery.

[justpete]

Yep, it finally went out so that's one less problem to deal with.

[justpete]

Front windows down, Hero4 Session, short shifted.

[Ruddigger]

Sounds crazy. Way to go.

[Taskmaster]

Sounds better than my car, that's for sure.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Sounds better than my car, that's for sure.

Can't figure out why unless it's the SS vs AA headers but that seems kind of a stretch.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by justpete

Can't figure out why unless it's the SS vs AA headers but that seems kind of a stretch.

Muffler and resonator as well. And Unequal Length headers do have a different sound compared to equal, but how much of a difference does it make on our cars, who knows...

[hassmaschine]

I doubt SS headers are any more "equal length" than AA. The difference is mostly cosmetic anyway.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I doubt SS headers are any more "equal length" than AA. The difference is mostly cosmetic anyway.

Saw your other post on this, nice to know, thanks. Curious why the exhaust notes would sound so dissimilar.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I doubt SS headers are any more "equal length" than AA. The difference is mostly cosmetic anyway.

According to Stig (who isn't here anymore) and Turner Motorsports, they arr...how true that is, I'm unsure. I do know that the AA headers aren't exact replicas, one bank has noticeable shorter runners* than the Super Sprint Version. As for noticeable difference- in theory the equal length. will have a broader RPM range to produce power in, but considering how short these headers are, I doubt it matters.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by justpete

Saw your other post on this, nice to know, thanks. Curious why the exhaust notes would sound so dissimilar.

Not actually sure. I know unequal length manifolds are what give the WRX and FRS/BRZ that distinctive boxter burble sound.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

According to Stig (who isn't here anymore) and Turner Motorsports, they arr...how true that is, I'm unsure. I do know that the AA headers aren't exact replicas, one bank has noticable shorter than the Super Sprint Version. As for noticeable difference- in theory the equal length. will have a broader RPM range to produce power in, but considering how short these headers are, I doubt it matters.

They are advertised that way, but in reality if you measured you will find they are not quite pefectly equal. Most headers sold as "equal length" have primaries that vary as much as 6".

[tetsuo111]

Love the raw, aggressive sound.

My hunch about the difference in sound is that your car interior is gutted and your drivetrain is solidly mounted. This results in the stripped chassis resonating from the drivetrain and exhaust vibrations.

Take a pic next time you roll into the grocery store parking lot. Would love to see the expression on people's faces.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

Love the raw, aggressive sound.

My hunch about the difference in sound is that your car interior is gutted and your drivetrain is solidly mounted. This results in the stripped chassis resonating from the drivetrain and exhaust vibrations.

Take a pic next time you roll into the grocery store parking lot. Would love to see the expression on people's faces.

Works for me. The sound from the rear rotors is however incredibly annoying and friggin loud. Dammit.

Could be right about the solid driveline and partially gutted cabin. It is loud enough that it's not possible to hear a passenger talking even with the windows rolled up much less with them down.

[justpete]

The steering angle sensor had to be replaced but for some reason couldn't be initialized, apparently due to the TPMS for some reason. Third party coding today should've taken care of that, we'll see.

However, because the steering angle sensor isn't working neither is the DSC. At all. Adaptive headlights aren't working either and I have to remember to manually cancel turn signals but holy hell does the car kick ass without that damn DSC!! Braking is impossibly tight and it corners like a kart, way more planted than it's ever felt. At all. Had no idea it could get this much better and maybe the half cage has a little bit to do with it maybe by slightly stiffening the chassis. Regardless, it's a much better handling car than it was, really impressive. Want better handling, maybe it'd help to disconnect the steering angle sensor....

[tetsuo111]

Originally Posted by justpete

Works for me. The sound from the rear rotors is however incredibly annoying and friggin loud. Dammit.

Could be right about the solid driveline and partially gutted cabin. It is loud enough that it's not possible to hear a passenger talking even with the windows rolled up much less with them down.

Remember that your exhaust may quiet over time. At least mine did. Or I simply adjusted to it. But sound definitely seems just right now. Either way works.

Interesting about your rear rotor noise. Wondering about the cause. Are you confident the brakes are the source? Could it be a bad hub / bearing?

[Eagle1oh7]

Hey how much did it cost to have your headers coated and wrapped? Got some AA headers coming in and would like to do the same.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Eagle1oh7

Hey how much did it cost to have your headers coated and wrapped? Got some AA headers coming in and would like to do the same.

I think the coating cost $240, no idea what the wrapping material or labor cost. Might've been broken out on the invoice but I never went through it, sorry.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

Remember that your exhaust may quiet over time. At least mine did. Or I simply adjusted to it. But sound definitely seems just right now. Either way works.

Interesting about your rear rotor noise. Wondering about the cause. Are you confident the brakes are the source? Could it be a bad hub / bearing?

Missed this somehow, sorry. Idle is acceptable, just hadn't let it warm up long enough before to notice. Still incredibly loud under acceleration.

The rotors themselves are the source of the noise, observed by the shop as they towed the car around drying it off after pulling it through the car wash before the diff came back. It's speed dependent and starts up and stops with movement. Realllllllly annoying. It's a scraping/singing sound, doesn't sound like a bearing at all. It would have to be both as both sides are generating noise which seems unlikely. Can't really be anything other than the rotors. I swear I can hear the front rotors in the mix coming from the front but it's nowhere near as loud and they're slotted while the rear rotors are only drilled.

[justpete]

Grocery gettin'

Just so ya know it's perfectly streetable.

[W37V]

is lsd broken in yet for dyno run?