[hassmaschine]

I am! I hated the one I had on my 1967 Dart. It would either not start at all, or it would rev to 1500rpm for 10 minutes, or until I blipped the throttle. a mechanical choke would have been so much better!

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Ok, I'll join the mix. Car has been sitting since Friday. Today seemed a little exceptional and blipped a bit higher to about 1300 RPM. Takes about 2.5min to even out to 600-700 RPM. Again, if I threw it straight into reverse it wouldn't be a big deal and I'd never know...

again.. this looks completely normal to me.

When the engine is cold, btw, the car is programmed to adjust the Vanos to heat up the cats really fast (it does the same the old air pumps did on 90's cars by adjusting intake/exhaust overlap to push more oxygen through the exhaust). That's why the idle isn't super smooth when it's cold, and why it sounds lumpier, because it is - on purpose.

[E92_William]

It's just weird because it won't do the rev up thing with the normal maf tune. Also my SES there is from the headers

[tree233]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

When the engine is cold, btw, the car is programmed to adjust the Vanos to heat up the cats really fast ... That's why the idle isn't super smooth when it's cold, and why it sounds lumpier, because it is - on purpose.

Is the vanos adjustment a preset? Or does it adjust from feedback from the iat, o2 & maf?
To be honest tho, it wouldn't bother me either way.

I'm still undecided if I should do this or not on my 130i. I've read the benefits, but can someone spell out for me again why the gains occur?

I'm also a little apprehensive because the 130i is apparently 265hp - so if that's from the tune, not the shorter exhaust or something, I'd potentially be downgrading...

Lastly (and most important for me actually), I've just bought a euro e91 323i for my missus and will be swapping the n52b25 for the n52b30. Both engines use the msv70 and part numbers match on realoem - will the 330i tunes work? Is there anything else controlled by the dme that could put a spanner in the works?

I really appreciate your help!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by tree233

Is the vanos adjustment a preset? Or does it adjust from feedback from the iat, o2 & maf?
To be honest tho, it wouldn't bother me either way.

I'm still undecided if I should do this or not on my 130i. I've read the benefits, but can someone spell out for me again why the gains occur?

I'm also a little apprehensive because the 130i is apparently 265hp - so if that's from the tune, not the shorter exhaust or something, I'd potentially be downgrading...

Lastly (and most important for me actually), I've just bought a euro e91 323i for my missus and will be swapping the n52b25 for the n52b30. Both engines use the msv70 and part numbers match on realoem - will the 330i tunes work? Is there anything else controlled by the dme that could put a spanner in the works?

I really appreciate your help!

This is not an upgrade to your 130i. You already have what all of us here are wanting.

If you want, you should look into a custom tune for some very marginal gains.

The N52B30 also came in various tune levels, so depending on your donor vehicle you may already have the same hp as 330i.

[tree233]

Yeah I am lucky there! Tho according to realoem the 130i uses the maf, so I was curious about the no-maf tune.

For the 323i I've only sourced the 3 litre engine by itself, not a whole donor car, but I know the VIN of the source 330i, and it was msv70 same as the 323i.

I'm hoping I can flash the 330i tune onto the original 323i (2.5 litre) ecu, to avoid having to source an ecu, cas & keys with matching VIN.

[hassmaschine]

if it's MSV70 then you should be able to, however I think the coding on the 330i tune is different from the 130i - it would need some minor additional changes to work properly.

There are many vanos maps, curves, and constants - most of them are actually for cold starts, hot starts, catalyst warmup, limp mode, etc. There's a handful of "main" maps for fully warmed up mode - intake & exhaust partial load maps, and intake & exhaust full load maps. Those are the only ones that usually get changed, the rest have been tuned by the factory for as much reliability as possible, there's no reason to touch them.

[Tacklewasher]

So, bad news. My Stage 3 and bimmer cable came today, so I'm gonna be asking a lot of dumb questions

Heads up e92_William

[E92_William]

Originally Posted by Tacklewasher

So, bad news. My Stage 3 and bimmer cable came today, so I'm gonna be asking a lot of dumb questions

Heads up e92_William

I'd say it's good news post up whatever you want to know. Probably going to be a walk in the park to flash and swap.

[Hotter]

What are the pros and cons of Mafless vs Regular 328i->330i tune?

[hassmaschine]

There's not any downside that I've ever noticed. I made the original tune in like 2015, it's been a daily driver/family car ever since then (my wife has driven it often).

[Savedamanualse90]

When I flashed the mafless 330i tune I started getting a power class mismatch. What is the correct power class setting to fix my issue? 0 or 1? Does anyone know if bimmerlabs is still doing custom tunes, been waiting for 3 months for a reply. Thanks

[hassmaschine]

Did you change the power class on your CAS? that is the only reason that should happen.

[Savedamanualse90]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Did you change the power class on your CAS? that is the only reason that should happen.

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Did you change the power class on your CAS? that is the only reason that should happen.

Flashed back to stock from running the AA tune. Then, after flashing with bimmerlabs tune the car felt like it was on limp mode. Open ncsexpert and found the mismatch. I want to make sure the power class is set accordingly.

[Tacklewasher]

Originally Posted by E92_William

I'd say it's good news post up whatever you want to know. Probably going to be a walk in the park to flash and swap.

So, putting it in tomorrow.
I have managed to code out the iDrive start up nanny screen. So I know my cable and laptop are working.

Will do the manifold swap tomorrow and then load the 330 code.

After that I will get rid of the TPMS warning. Means I'm digging behind the back seat for the RDC module.

Then off to figure out is funky with my top. Changed the salmon relays, but still getting an error and see an error code is there.

[Tacklewasher]

Would it make sense for the car to seem less responsive with the 330 update done, but the manifold not swapped?

Just doesn't seem to wind up as quick as before I flashed the 330 tune.

Also, when testing the car after uploading the tune, at night, at 100 kmh (speed limit), it's not nice to see 2 deer in the headlights crossing the road in front of you. I wasn't wearing my brown pants....

See what it's like with the manifold in tomorrow.

[E92_William]

From my experience the car started pulling more with the tune a day or two after flashing. Idk why it didn't do it right up but maybe I should have reset adaptations

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by E92_William

From my experience the car started pulling more with the tune a day or two after flashing. Idk why it didn't do it right up but maybe I should have reset adaptations

Originally Posted by Tacklewasher

Would it make sense for the car to seem less responsive with the 330 update done, but the manifold not swapped?

Just doesn't seem to wind up as quick as before I flashed the 330 tune.

Also, when testing the car after uploading the tune, at night, at 100 kmh (speed limit), it's not nice to see 2 deer in the headlights crossing the road in front of you. I wasn't wearing my brown pants....

See what it's like with the manifold in tomorrow.

Umm, yes you won't see gains without the DISA's in place to collect/release the air on cue.

[Tacklewasher]

Do I really need to disconnect the battery to do the manifold? Just a PITA with the E93.

[E92_William]

I mean you don't have to but the car is going to probably freak out over everything you disconnected if you don't. Is it harder on E93 to access? I always do it as a good measure maybe you drop a wrench and it jumps the starter or something!

[Tacklewasher]

All done and the only thing broken was one of the clamps holding the intake tube on. So zip tie as a temp measure and went for a drive. Think it needs to learn.

No oil around the oil filter and starter looked fine, so everything is back together.

Next is to get rid of the TPMS notice.

And yeah, look up how to get at the battery in an E93. It really is a lot harder than in an E90. Had no issues with not disconnecting it.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Tacklewasher

All done and the only thing broken was one of the clamps holding the intake tube on. So zip tie as a temp measure and went for a drive. Think it needs to learn.

No oil around the oil filter and starter looked fine, so everything is back together.

Next is to get rid of the TPMS notice.

And yeah, look up how to get at the battery in an E93. It really is a lot harder than in an E90. Had no issues with not disconnecting it.

I wouldn't think there'd be any issues. As long as everything is plugged in before you start up the car.

Maybe a good time to get the silicone elbow instead?