[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by JETmn

Any plans to raise the octane and max the turbo out?

If we do, what mix of e85 would you prefer with tested with?

[JETmn]

E40 is probably the most common and should have plenty of octane to max it. If you run out of fuel pump E30 should be enough too.

You could throw it on a DynoJet to get the big numbers people seem to be wanting too. I don't care about that. I know the delta is what really matters on a dyno.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Question, and you may have answered this already.

On a scale of 1-10, how difficult is it to remove the turbocharger on an N55? Does it require full engine removal to get to it?

[mashimarho]

We demand videos

[PeterPure]

I ran 21 psi today with it. Man what a beast this is

[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by Some guy somewhere

Question, and you may have answered this already.

On a scale of 1-10, how difficult is it to remove the turbocharger on an N55? Does it require full engine removal to get to it?

My opinion would be a 5 or 6 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. An experienced BMW tech can finish in 3.5 hours. Someone less experienced may take up to 6 hours. No, it does not require engine removal. Here's the simplified procedure:

Remove sway bar, Drain cooling system, Remove water pump and thermostat housing, Remove all turbo hoses/lines, remove turbo. Then reverse procedure and fill / bleed cooling system.

[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by mashimarho

We demand videos

Originally Posted by Darkhold

I ran 21 psi today with it. Man what a beast this is

Darkhold: Can you shoot more videos for these guys?

[CombatNinja]

Pure, I have checked out your website and I am still not 100% clear on what the cost is for this upgrade. Is the $9xx you list for a complete, modified dual scroll factory turbo or is it for the parts to turn my OEM turbo into a Pure stage 1? Also, if it is for a complete turbo, is there a core charge that is going to be assessed over and above that $9xx? I have a hard time believing that I can get a modified OEM turbo for that price and keep my stocker as a backup.

Secondly, any reason to think this will not work or show gains with a stock downpipe? I know it won't work to its maximum potential with a restrictive cat in place but will it cause any problems that you know of? Removing emissions equipment is not an option for everyone.

This looks like it might be the way for me to get near 350whp on pump fuel for the $2500 I have allowed myself. Just trying to figure out what the costs are with the hardware. Software is a known cost at this juncture. Thanks in advance for any guidance or advice you have.

[PeterPure]

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos

Darkhold: Can you shoot more videos for these guys?

Will see what i can do

[e36addict]

Alright, so my turbo took a major shit. I heard a loud backfire, then the turbo started making all kinds of noises and obviously blew the seals out, started smoking real bad. Removed the DP today and found what looks to be a melted exhaust wheel. One of the fins is gone.. My question to Pure Turbos is, will my damaged core still count as a core? Or will I have to pay the core charge and my turbo is worthless? I'm ready to do this mod, and seems a lot better than the alternative. Thanks.

[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by CombatNinja

Pure, I have checked out your website and I am still not 100% clear on what the cost is for this upgrade. Is the $9xx you list for a complete, modified dual scroll factory turbo or is it for the parts to turn my OEM turbo into a Pure stage 1? Also, if it is for a complete turbo, is there a core charge that is going to be assessed over and above that $9xx? I have a hard time believing that I can get a modified OEM turbo for that price and keep my stocker as a backup.

Secondly, any reason to think this will not work or show gains with a stock downpipe? I know it won't work to its maximum potential with a restrictive cat in place but will it cause any problems that you know of? Removing emissions equipment is not an option for everyone.

This looks like it might be the way for me to get near 350whp on pump fuel for the $2500 I have allowed myself. Just trying to figure out what the costs are with the hardware. Software is a known cost at this juncture. Thanks in advance for any guidance or advice you have.

My apologies for the confusion on the turbo pricing. To clear this up:

The price is $995 + $900 core deposit. The $900 deposit is refunded when we receive your old turbo. If we don't get it back, the deposit is not refunded. This price is for your choice of a complete turbo or a turbo minus manifold. Every upgrade we have sold has been a turbo minus manifold, because it's SO much easier to install. We don't recommend the complete turbo option.

You will net gains even with the stock downpipe. You just won't see the full potential like you said. We haven't seen a dyno with stock downpipe so I couldn't tell you exactly what gains you'll have. The turbo itself is the biggest cork in the system, so the stock downpipe is not going to affect you that much. You will still love the performance. If not, send it back for a refund! No problem.

350whp on pump is pretty accurate and realistic. We made 342whp on a very low reading mustang dyno. We netted about 45whp gain on pump gas and same boost pressures. Do you have any baseline dynos yet?

[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by e36addict

Alright, so my turbo took a major shit. I heard a loud backfire, then the turbo started making all kinds of noises and obviously blew the seals out, started smoking real bad. Removed the DP today and found what looks to be a melted exhaust wheel. One of the fins is gone.. My question to Pure Turbos is, will my damaged core still count as a core? Or will I have to pay the core charge and my turbo is worthless? I'm ready to do this mod, and seems a lot better than the alternative. Thanks.

Wow, not good. My experienced opinion is that you may possibly have more going on than just a blown turbo. Do you see all those light colored specs of melted metal? Looks like aluminum possibly, piston meltdown? That one blade looks like it got hit with a molten blob of metal. See the striations going up the blade to the left of it? See how the missing blade has melted looking tips, not broken cracked tips? This is all just speculation and opinion. I could be completely wrong. Just trying to help out. I would check the rest of the engine before you bolt on another turbo and go driving. If you do send this one in to us, there is a lot we can predict from looking at the inside of the turbo. We can tell you if we see signs of engine problems once we pull it apart.

To answer your question: We can hook you up. We will take your core in for full credit. Normally this situation would be a partial core refund...

[hetzle]

Originally Posted by JETmn

Yes, Mustang dynos are usually at least 15% lower than a Dynojet sometimes up to 20%. Like posted the big difference is the delta. I can't wait to see what it does by someone running e40 or meth compared to their FBO. If it is still a 45whp gain that is a great deal! Should get us solidly in the 11's.

I doubt this will get us into the 11's without some serious weight reduction. Low 12's should be in order though!

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos

If we do, what mix of e85 would you prefer with tested with?

E40 would be great if you could!

[JETmn]

NeoNz ran a 12.3 in his Xdrive, so I could see this getting to 11's with traction.

[e36addict]

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos

Wow, not good. My experienced opinion is that you may possibly have more going on than just a blown turbo. Do you see all those light colored specs of melted metal? Looks like aluminum possibly, piston meltdown? That one blade looks like it got hit with a molten blob of metal. See the striations going up the blade to the left of it? See how the missing blade has melted looking tips, not broken cracked tips? This is all just speculation and opinion. I could be completely wrong. Just trying to help out. I would check the rest of the engine before you bolt on another turbo and go driving. If you do send this one in to us, there is a lot we can predict from looking at the inside of the turbo. We can tell you if we see signs of engine problems once we pull it apart.

To answer your question: We can hook you up. We will take your core in for full credit. Normally this situation would be a partial core refund...

I get what you're saying.. Thing is, car runs great other than having no boost. No misfires, no rough running, etc. Guess I could run a quick compression/leakdown. Just pulled the turbo out of the car. Thanks for the help/advice!

[e36addict]

Compression is good across the board, all within ~8psi of 175. I guess i'll just go ahead and order the turbo and hope for the best!

Any updates on the revised stg1? Will they be available soon or no?

[hetzle]

Originally Posted by JETmn

NeoNz ran a 12.3 in his Xdrive, so I could see this getting to 11's with traction.

Good point, I forgot about Xdrives for a minute there.

[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by e36addict

Compression is good across the board, all within ~8psi of 175. I guess i'll just go ahead and order the turbo and hope for the best!

Any updates on the revised stg1? Will they be available soon or no?

Revised stg 1 is available. Just let us know if you prefer V1 or V2.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos

My opinion would be a 5 or 6 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. An experienced BMW tech can finish in 3.5 hours. Someone less experienced may take up to 6 hours. No, it does not require engine removal. Here's the simplified procedure:

Remove sway bar, Drain cooling system, Remove water pump and thermostat housing, Remove all turbo hoses/lines, remove turbo. Then reverse procedure and fill / bleed cooling system.

If it doesn't require engine or subframe removal, that's DIYable to me!

Expect a new customer soon!

[e36addict]

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos

Revised stg 1 is available. Just let us know if you prefer V1 or V2.

V2 if it's an improvement at all... Just specify when I order?

Originally Posted by Some guy somewhere

If it doesn't require engine or subframe removal, that's DIYable to me!

Expect a new customer soon!

Coolant hoses are a bit of a bitch, and getting the wastegate actuator unbolted so you can get the turbo out is also no fun, but overall not a hard job by any means.

[Pure Turbos]

Originally Posted by Some guy somewhere

If it doesn't require engine or subframe removal, that's DIYable to me!

Expect a new customer soon!

It's definitely DIYable. Let us know when you're ready, Thanks.

Originally Posted by e36addict

V2 if it's an improvement at all... Just specify when I order?



Coolant hoses are a bit of a bitch, and getting the wastegate actuator unbolted so you can get the turbo out is also no fun, but overall not a hard job by any means.

Yes, just specify when ordering.

A few tips for the hoses and WG actuator:

Leave the oil pressure line (on top) and the coolant lines (both on right side) attached to the turbo. Just unbolt them from the engine. Pull them off the turbo after you get the turbo out of the car. And for the wastegate, leave it bolted to the turbo compressor housing until after you remove the turbo from the turbine housing/manifold. Then you can rotate the turbo and access the WG actuator bolts much easier. These few tricks save a lot of time.

[335iFFM]

Hey PT
What would you recommend? V1 or V2? Which one's performing better? Pros/Cons?