[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

For once realOEM weights can be trusted!

3-holed skid plate (right) 225g
2-holed skid plate (left) 400g

Attachment 2514288

Attachment 2514289

How does the material thickness compare?

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

How does the material thickness compare?

Virtually identical (3mm). You can see from the pics that the weight difference is due to the 3-hole plate being about half the size and with extra cut-outs compared to the 2-hole.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

For once realOEM weights can be trusted!

3-holed skid plate (right) 225g
2-holed skid plate (left) 400g

Attachment 2514288

Attachment 2514289

Stupid heavy design Vs Clever light design

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by ornicar

I have saying you there was an +11mm axial offset and +5mm radial offset .


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=27133365



I am sorry my English is far to be perfect. a drawing would be better...

I use Brembo 135i 6 pots caliper with 345mm csl 2 parts discs. I have to use 11mm spacers.

Maybe in the future i will buy the hydra brackets, or i will do it myself.

Ok I missed that lol. Thanks for clearing it up again!

[Biginboca]

Ok, so some progress made in the M4 spindle swap today. As my friend ornicar pointed out there are some fitment issues for brakes. I don’t want to run M4 brakes that’s just going to add weight for a purpose I’ll never need.

So I’m trying to keep my existing F30 Msport 340mm set up. This means I need to make an 11mm adjustment in the rotor/caliper mount (towards the wheel face) and then I need to use a rotor that’s 10mm larger.

I’m going to try running a 335i 348mm x 30mm rotor with the Msport Brembo. I just picked up a set to double check but the specs say there’s about a 8mm difference in the swept area so we will see if I need to shave the pads or what.

For the 11mm outwards (towards the wheel face) that the M4 spindles move the caliper I came up with a compromise. Today I shaved 6mm off the caliper mounts and next I’m going to make a 5mm spacer from a wheel spacer to go behind the rotor and move it out 5mm. This also means my wheels essentially change from 18x9 et30 to become et25, which would not work within my fenders and my 255’s tires, so I had some 245’s mounted on the wheels. The plus is the tires are 2lbs lighter lol

Today was spent shaving the spindles down. I mounted the spindle to a hub, to an inverted rotor. This gave me a heavy and flat rotating base. Then I bought a belt sander with an adjustable arm to sand the mounts in a perfectly flat way. Came out pretty good I think!

The scribed line is the material I had to shave off:



This is the set up I made to shave the mounts:

This is the finished products:

[Tambohamilton]

This is hilarious and awesome; kudos!

[IllSic_Design]

I wouldn't want to take off that much material on the caliper mount on the spindle, but that's just me.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

I wouldn't want to take off that much material on the caliper mount on the spindle, but that's just me.

If you look at the scribe line in the first pic you can see although it’s 6mm off the caliper mounts it’s actually just 1mm off the thickness of the part of the spindle that supports the caliper mounts.

The mounts where the bolt goes are thick round pads, and then the ears that come off the spindle to support the mounting pads are basically the same thickness as what’s left after the shave (1mm difference). I don’t feel the strength of the mounts is really comprised much because the support structure for the caliper mounting areas are basically untouched.

Here’s a screen cap from that video which shows what I mean, how the support structure for the pad mounts is about the same thickness as what’s left after my shave. And you can also faintly see the scribe line in this pic too...

[IllSic_Design]

I wouldn't want to go further than the structure of the spindle, but 1mm isn't much I agree.

[Biginboca]

On a tangent back to the subject of bracing. Checks this out...



In place of a rear strut brace it’s a carbon panel for rear seat deleted cars that’s also structural to add rigidity. It installs like the carbon roof, using body adhesive around the whole perimeter. Very nice, and kills 2 birds with one stone by filling in the hole on rear seat deleted cars.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...7#post27187177

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

On a tangent back to the subject of bracing. Checks this out...



In place of a rear strut brace it’s a carbon panel for rear seat deleted cars that’s also structural to add rigidity. It installs like the carbon roof, using body adhesive around the whole perimeter. Very nice, and kills 2 birds with one stone by filling in the hole on rear seat deleted cars.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...7#post27187177

Nice! That's exactly the sort of thing that's needed

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

In place of a rear strut brace it’s a carbon panel for rear seat deleted cars that’s also structural to add rigidity. It installs like the carbon roof, using body adhesive around the whole perimeter. Very nice, and kills 2 birds with one stone by filling in the hole on rear seat deleted cars.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...7#post27187177

It's a beautiful piece, I agree. But for me (and I suspect the majority of owners reading this) my car isn't just a weekend track day queen, but a working daily driver. So functional rear seats and the ability to fold them down for large loads from time to time is essential. So I'll have to pass thanks...

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

It's a beautiful piece, I agree. But for me (and I suspect the majority of owners reading this) my car isn't just a weekend track day queen, but a working daily driver. So functional rear seats and the ability to fold them down for large loads from time to time is essential. So I'll have to pass thanks...

I actually love that panel and it would totally fit with my build theme, but the list price is like $1900 and that group buy had the pricing down to $1450 if 20+ pieces are sold.

I spent like $500 for the carpeted aluminum (and fold down) seat delete panels and like $240 for the Cusco rear strut brace, so that carbon panel is like double the price of the 2 items I bought. It probably also saves 12lbs of weight vs what I did, and it definitely looks cooler.

All that said, I think the pricing is pretty ridiculous. You can get a carbon fiber sunroof delete panel for our cars for less than $500 (and that’s not even on sale or group buy). That panel is essentially the same thing as a sunroof delete so at $1450 it’s not something I would ever consider, although at $500 I would probably jump on it... if I could get one without a M logo

[Biginboca]

... moving on to part 2 of making the f30 brakes work for the M4 spindle swap...



That’s the 5mm spacer I’m making to go behind the rotor, between the brake rotor and the hub. So I need to open the ID to the scribe line (from 72.56mm to 79.00mm) so I can lay it flush on that hub.

As you can see The m4 hub has those 3 thick pins to help locate the rotors that normal series hubs don’t have. (And my new rotors are not M rotors so they don’t have holes for those pins either.)

So the pins stick out like 6.5mm and the spacer is 5mm thick. I’m debating between pressing the pins out, or keeping them but pressing them down 1.5mm further into the hub and then drilling holes in the spacer.

Because the pins are already there I’m thinking it can’t hurt to keep them to help locate the spacer. Seems like this could only help to shore everything up strength wise, even though normal series cars don’t even have these pins.

Once that spacer is on the hub the last piece of the puzzle will be a Hubcentric ring to center the rotor against (over) that new spacer. The hub diameter for our wheels is 72.56mm but the hub diameter where the rotor fits is actually larger at 79.00mm, and it’s critical the rotor is perfectly Hubcentric. So I have some custom hub rings on order 79.00/72.56.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Was just thinking about the upcoming spindles install and realized that adds another new model to my parts car count for this Mutt!

328csl Parts Cars (13... so far)

Euro E90 328i (Airbox)
E90 328i XDrive (3.91 Rear Differential)
E92 335i (Oil Cooler, Throttle Body, and Intake Manifold)
E92 335is (Door Cards)
E92M3 (Control Arms, Steering Rack, and Roof)
E93M3 (Front Chassis Plate)
E93 328i (Front Subframe Brace)
E60 530i (Vented Differential Cover)
X1 (Steering Wheel Trim)
A90 Supra (Rear Control Arm Aero)
F33 335i (Front Brakes)
F80M3 (Front Spindles)
E46M3 (Badges)

What's the difference between 335is door cards and 328 cards? Are they different from the standard 335i cards as well?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

What's the difference between 335is door cards and 328 cards? Are they different from the standard 335i cards as well?

I’m honestly not sure. They are different from the door cards my car had originally. The 335is had some stitched leather trim on the passenger grab handle and a line of stitching running across the middle of the door that my originals didn’t have. They generally look more premium but I’m not sure how that compares to a normal 335

[E92William]

I believe the stitching through the middle of the leather of the door panel indicates it is real leather instead of leatherette, aswell do the two stiched lines instead of a single one on the upper part of the driver seat in the middle. Could be wrong but those are supposedly ways to identify which the car has (apart from smell)

[Biginboca]

Ok some more progress with the knuckle swap yesterday, I’m feeling very encouraged at this point it looks like everything will work out keeping my bmw performance suspension springs/struts and F30 brakes.

One issue with this swap is the M4 knuckle is taller and also places the bearing mount about 4-5mm lower in the spindle, what this means is using the same placement on the strut the spindle will add about 1.25” of height to the front of a e9x car. If you are using M car coilovers it’s a simple adjustment. On our cars the front ride height is determined by a tab on the strut that seats against the spindle:



When I slid the M4 spindle up against that tab the bearing was about 1.25” further from the spring perch than stock. So I found a work around, I trimmed the tab down to this:



(I also had to delete the bottom one of the two round pins that slide into the spindle as you can see.)

So with that cut then I cut a slot into the sleeve that fits over the strut to go around that modified tab:





And now the spindle sits about 1.0” higher than it did before this trim.

After all is said and done, this mod will raise my front ride height about 6mm (1/4”) higher than it was with the oem spindle, which I’m totally fine with because my car was riding with a little too much rake in my opinion. Here’s a pic taken last Saturday you can see the added gap in the front will look good:



I also test fitted the new E90 335i front rotors with the F30 brembo calipers on the new mounts. This is going to work with just a little shave off the inside of the pads. I have both bolts in the caliper here and taking like 2-3mm off the inner edge of the pad should make this work great. My belt sander is going to be the MVP tool on this swap

[Tambohamilton]

this is getting out of hand! I hope it works out for you, but it's definitely not something I'll be doing on my car

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

this is getting out of hand! I hope it works out for you, but it's definitely not something I'll be doing on my car

Come on man, I know you want to borrow my belt sander and grinder

[colorado.e9x]

3PedalJake I think you should make the E90 equivalent of this build

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Come on man, I know you want to borrow my belt sander and grinder

Haha, I've got my own, don't worry! Also got access to a couple of milling machines...but still it's a bit much! Very interested to see the resulting suspension geo though