[BlackBB6]

Originally Posted by toms335i

hey guys so my AP came in today and Im curious which map to download. Currently the only engine mod on my car are Riss Racing dp's. Love them so far, need to know which map is best with just dp's.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Stage 2 Sport.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by toms335i

hey guys so my AP came in today and Im curious which map to download. Currently the only engine mod on my car are Riss Racing dp's. Love them so far, need to know which map is best with just dp's.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Find out which ECU you have, follow the install steps provided with the AP or download it on COBB website.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessPORT...s/bmw/bmw-grid

then take a look at their chart. it specifically specifies which mod you need to run as well as octane level. Read the Maps notes for further detail.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessPORT...maps/bmw/I8A0S

[Devas]

Originally Posted by benzy89

Yes, you can run the COBB tune w/o the oil cooler. I see that you live in the Northeast so luckily you don't have to worry about excessive heat year round. If you do plan on tracking your car (drag strip or autocross), I'd recommend that you buy an aftermarket oil cooler.

The minute you increase the performance on the car, the wear and tear is going to increase. As long as you stay informed about the mechanical components, reading codes, and actively maintain the car you'll be fine. IMO, COBB is the best tune all around tune. It comes from a company that's made its reputation on quality aftermarket performance mods (most recently w/ their time-attack GTR), offers the simplicity of flashing the performance settings right through the OBD port (so you'll never have to open the engine), and you'll never have to pay for new/updated maps, even if you continue to mod your car.

Downsides to the COBB??? Maybe that that 1) there aren't any meth maps right now (but you can get around this by using a meth system that self-manages, like Snow Performance) and 2) you're going catch the mod bug instantly and become uncontrollably power hungry

What if you're running their most aggressive OTS maps, such as Stage 2+ Aggressive, and you drive it regularly, like shifting at 2500rpm - 3500rpm. Is the wear and tear the same as if the car wasn't tuned?

[ihc95]

Just a few questions before I go ahead and order my AP. How does the car feel when driving normally? Is there any increased lag because of the higher boost pressure? Is there still surging or has that been taken care of by Cobb?

Thanks in advance.

[toms335i]

Appreciate the help!

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

Find out which ECU you have, follow the install steps provided with the AP or download it on COBB website.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessPORT...s/bmw/bmw-grid

then take a look at their chart. it specifically specifies which mod you need to run as well as octane level. Read the Maps notes for further detail.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessPORT...maps/bmw/I8A0S

[cloud_connected]

Originally Posted by ihc95

Just a few questions before I go ahead and order my AP. How does the car feel when driving normally? Is there any increased lag because of the higher boost pressure? Is there still surging or has that been taken care of by Cobb?

Thanks in advance.

When driving normally the car feels very much stock as far as driveability is concerned. There is no increase in lag, in fact its the opposite. The throttle surges/oscillations have been fixed. The V4xx maps are smooth as butter.

[cloud_connected]

Originally Posted by Devas

What if you're running their most aggressive OTS maps, such as Stage 2+ Aggressive, and you drive it regularly, like shifting at 2500rpm - 3500rpm. Is the wear and tear the same as if the car wasn't tuned?

Anytime you really push the car when it has more power it puts more wear and tear on the vehicle. When driving normally the wear and tear increase is negligible.

[ihc95]

Originally Posted by cloud_connected

When driving normally the car feels very much stock as far as driveability is concerned. There is no increase in lag, in fact its the opposite. The throttle surges/oscillations have been fixed. The V4xx maps are smooth as butter.

Thanks for your reply

[benzy89]

Originally Posted by Devas

What if you're running their most aggressive OTS maps, such as Stage 2+ Aggressive, and you drive it regularly, like shifting at 2500rpm - 3500rpm. Is the wear and tear the same as if the car wasn't tuned?

If you take care of the car, it's more than capable of handling the increased power. If you abuse the hell out of it, then (like any other car it) it won't last.

Originally Posted by ihc95

Just a few questions before I go ahead and order my AP. How does the car feel when driving normally? Is there any increased lag because of the higher boost pressure? Is there still surging or has that been taken care of by Cobb?

Thanks in advance.

Feels exactly the same, just more powerful (not jittery but just a more powerful 335). There's the same "dead zone" for the turbos as when the Stock Tune is on, boost builds up around 2.25k RPMs & they're good until 6.2k

[I3ossman]

Currently running stage 2 aggressive 4.01 stock throttle maps.. mods are downpipes, intake, bmw perf axleback. FMIC and hardpipes/bov NOT installed yet. I was thinking of giving E85 a shot today. Mix would be 50/50 93 and e85. Since im impatient and want to get an idea of what the stage2+fmic agg maps feel like, does anyone see a reason I couldnt run that map with e85 thrown in to the mix? I cant see why it wouldnt work well..

[benzy89]

Originally Posted by I3ossman

Currently running stage 2 aggressive 4.01 stock throttle maps.. mods are downpipes, intake, bmw perf axleback. FMIC and hardpipes/bov NOT installed yet. I was thinking of giving E85 a shot today. Mix would be 50/50 93 and e85. Since im impatient and want to get an idea of what the stage2+fmic agg maps feel like, does anyone see a reason I couldnt run that map with e85 thrown in to the mix? I cant see why it wouldnt work well..

If you're not tuning for E85, DO NOT run a 50/50 blend. I have a ProTuned map & it's only for 30% mix. I'd say put in 20% (~3 gallons) and let it rip. That'll be plenty of E85 to give you quality, correction-free timing & a nice bump in the HP. If you don't get any mixture codes, maybe bump it up to 25%.

[JStang]

Originally Posted by benzy89

If you're not tuning for E85, DO NOT run a 50/50 blend. I have a ProTuned map & it's only for 30% mix. I'd say put in 20% (~3 gallons) and let it rip. That'll be plenty of E85 to give you quality, correction-free timing & a nice bump in the HP. If you don't get any mixture codes, maybe bump it up to 25%.

I am currently running 3 gallons of E85 mixed with 13.XXX gallons of E92 and got an SES light triggered by a fuel mixture code last night.

From what I have read, this is common and I have nothing to worry about. Once you are properly tuned for E85, will this code/ses light go away?

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by JStang

I am currently running 3 gallons of E85 mixed with 13.XXX gallons of E92 and got an SES light triggered by a fuel mixture code last night.

From what I have read, this is common and I have nothing to worry about. Once you are properly tuned for E85, will this code/ses light go away?

That is interesting. I have been mixing 20% (3.2 gallons on a full tank) for over a month and never got a code.

[benzy89]

Originally Posted by JStang

I am currently running 3 gallons of E85 mixed with 13.XXX gallons of E92 and got an SES light triggered by a fuel mixture code last night.

From what I have read, this is common and I have nothing to worry about. Once you are properly tuned for E85, will this code/ses light go away?

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

That is interesting. I have been mixing 20% (3.2 gallons on a full tank) for over a month and never got a code.

COMPLETELY normal, it's the DME sensing that something isn't "normal" (basically the unusually high ethanol content). I got it occasionally when I ran 3 gallons just to eliminate my timing corrections before I got tuned for E85. It'd randomly pop up, but it seemed like it happened most when I got to 1/4 of a tank left or lower (ethanol concentration probably increased a little bit).

Now that I'm specifically tuned for E85 using special fueling tables, I don't expect to see another fuel mixture code unless I substantially increase the amount of E85 that I'm tuned for (like if I doubled my E85 blend).

[AlanYoro35i]

Hi Guys

Wondering if you guys can tell me what these error code means?

H2AAF
H2A87
H3100

many thanks

[cloud_connected]

P2A87= exhaust vanos variable cam control test, mechanics
P3100= air charge control, shut down
H2AAF= fuel pump plausibility

Your exhaust VANOS solenoid probably needs to either be cleaned or replaced. The other two usually don't mean anything.

[BMWsky]

Originally Posted by Yoro35i

Hi Guys

Wondering if you guys can tell me what these error code means?

H2AAF
H2A87
H3100

many thanks

Those are probably VANOS related. If you drop the letter (either an H or P) in front of the code, you can search that way and get a lot more info on it. 2AAF is usually a fuel pump code, but without other fuel pump codes it isn't much to worry about. The 2A87 code is VANOS.

How many miles do you have on the car? You could try cleaning the VANOS solenoids and see if the codes go away.

[AlanYoro35i]

Thanks guys

the cars just got to 50k and was wondering if those codes would be turbo related at first..i will try do the vano's cleaning and see if it works first.

many thanks

[Imperator]

H = Historian; ie: not a current fault but a previous condition that may have briefly triggered the code.

Clear it and proceed, but be sure to check back every once in a while to see if new codes emerge.

[Mr. Nice]

been running 6 gallons on the stage 2+ aggressive map without any issue

[BMWsky]

Originally Posted by Imperator

H = Historian; ie: not a current fault but a previous condition that may have briefly triggered the code.

Clear it and proceed, but be sure to check back every once in a while to see if new codes emerge.

Thank you, I wondered what that meant.

[ihc95]

Will Cobb stage 1 aggressive run fine with a stock air filter/box? At first I was gonna get a drop in dry air filter (aFe probably) but now Im not sure if I need it.

Thanks