[Brule]

Ordered Redline MT90 75-90 should resolve the 1-2 issue.

[titium]

Originally Posted by Brule

Ordered Redline MT90 75-90 should resolve the 1-2 issue.

stock transmission mounts?

upgrade to rogue engineering ones. I just did and honestly think I've halved the time it takes for me to shift to second. all the gears just slide into place so nicely now. no more random second gear crunches well worth the $150ish delivered and installed. no increased nvh either so it's win win.

[Brule]

Yea stock transmission mounts. I'm looking online now


I was going to pm vtl about what bushings and mounts to get to reduce wheel hop.

Ordering kwv3 but need to know what else will help.

I haven't crunched second it just doesn't let me go in even when I was really smooth in 1st in the upper rpms with medium load

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Brule

Yea stock transmission mounts. I'm looking online now


I was going to pm vtl about what bushings and mounts to get to reduce wheel hop.

Ordering kwv3 but need to know what else will help.

I haven't crunched second it just doesn't let me go in even when I was really smooth in 1st in the upper rpms with medium load

You'll want to go:
Upgraded subframe bushings - Nolathane or even solid aluminium if you have the budget
Upgraded toe arms - toe changes under hard launches will cause wheel hop. Stock bushings are quite soft and upgraded ones use ball joints to reduce deflection. Rogue engineering or Megan racing ones. M3 ones would be superior but don't fit as the mount points to the subframe are different so they are the wrong length.

Might consider stiffer diff bushings (Nolathane/whiteline) but I am not sure if this will help wheelhop (has no influence on the suspension geometry), but upgrading the diff bushings will stop it from bouncing around as theyre quite soft anyway.

While you've already got the front struts out of the car you may as well put in camber plates for better handling. Makes the steering much more direct and responsive and give you more front end grip.

[JB4-335]

I've got a set of new M3 subframe bushings if your interested.

[Brule]

I'm going to get the megan toe arms and see how it is with new coil overs before doing any more.

If it needs improving ill do some more of what vtl suggested and see if your bushings are still available.

[titium]

Originally Posted by Brule

I'm going to get the megan toe arms and see how it is with new coil overs before doing any more.

If it needs improving ill do some more of what vtl suggested and see if your bushings are still available.

rear subframe bushes should be number 1 priorty to sort the rear out. the stock ones suck especially once you put in Firmer springs.

[Brule]

Are you sure.

they wont have as much slop causing wheel hop as the dampener and the toe arm holding more tyre on the road.

Rear subframe bushing will keep it more stable in all directions but not contribute as much as the dampening and toe.

[titium]

i can't say 100% as i did rear guide rods, Megan toe arms and nolethane rear bushes all at the same time. the combo of all of these made a night and day difference to how the car 'felt' on the road.

my understanding of it all however is that the bushes made the biggest impact. the stock bushes are hollow and so soft you can wiggle the whole subframe by hand on a hoist apparently, if you can move it with that little force imagine what it's doing when your putting the power down....

i personally wouldn't bother with m3 ones (too expensive) I'd go nolethane or even solid.

if your doing rear shocks get dinan rear shock mounts to go with them they have a firmer bushing which makes the damper more effective. the stock mounts are soft as a cheap way to make the dampers less harsh for high frequency low amplitude bumps however they sacrifice wheel control as a result. better quality dampers shouldn't need this gimmik. the upgraded mounts also claim to add shock travel not sure how true this is or how much it helps.

[vtl]

I did the Nolathane bushings on stock suspension as my first suspension mod. Helps a lot with putting down the power as the subframe mounts won't deflect and steer the car under heavy load. Stock subframe bushings you can squish with your fingers, theyre only on the car to work with the stock runflats.

On a car with this much power it really needs all of these mods, but if I had to choose, id get subframe bushings before toe arms, makes a bigger difference.

[Brule]

It would be good to do all at once but I want to use my car for alot of events this year.

Best thing will be having V3s and being able to adjust them then stiffen the rest up from there.

The nolethane bushes your talking about are for subframe and diff?

I can feel the rear squirm left and right heaps in 3rd gear

[Brule]

cheers vtl

Ill look at some DIYs

Whatever helps the most ill do first

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Brule

It would be good to do all at once but I want to use my car for alot of events this year.

Best thing will be having V3s and being able to adjust them then stiffen the rest up from there.

The nolethane bushes your talking about are for subframe and diff?

I can feel the rear squirm left and right heaps in 3rd gear

Yep Nolathane bushes are available for rear subframe and the diff. The squirm is from the squishy subframe bushings alowing the whole thing to move and rear steer the car.

Heres a review
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1158856

Can be DIY'd in a few hours or so with some magical PVC pipe for a special tool.

[bradsm87]

Up in that heat, I'd run a 50/50 mix (water absorbs more heat than methanol) and run both a charge pipe nozzle and an intercooler spray nozzle, so you're cooling the intercooler, making it more effective AND cooling the charge air directly as well. Intercooler water spray is really effective and was stock on some WRX STi models. Having both that and water meth injection would be so good for charge air cooling and it's as simple as adding another nozzle in front of the intercooler.

50/50 mix means you can use the windscreen washer reservoir (a lot of windscreen washer fluid is 50/50 water/methanol anyway!). That way, you get the factory washer fluid level warning and you can still use it as washer fluid. So simple! You could always run 60% water and 40% methanol if you're extra worried about flammability.

I don't have any experience with current management but AEM looks to be really well sorted for a fraction of the cost of the high end stuff like Aquamist.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by bradsm87

Up in that heat, I'd run a 50/50 mix (water absorbs more heat than methanol) and run both a charge pipe nozzle and an intercooler spray nozzle, so you're cooling the intercooler, making it more effective AND cooling the charge air directly as well. Intercooler water spray is really effective and was stock on some WRX STi models. Having both that and water meth injection would be so good for charge air cooling and it's as simple as adding another nozzle in front of the intercooler.

50/50 mix means you can use the windscreen washer reservoir (a lot of windscreen washer fluid is 50/50 water/methanol anyway!). That way, you get the factory washer fluid level warning and you can still use it as washer fluid. So simple! You could always run 60% water and 40% methanol if you're extra worried about flammability.

I don't have any experience with current management but AEM looks to be really well sorted for a fraction of the cost of the high end stuff like Aquamist.

Just out of curiousity I've never heard of anyone running high or 100% water, but the M4 GTS does. Since he isnt using meth for octane perhaps he could get away with straight demineralised water? (unsure of the corrosive effect this has though!?)

It would be good for you to look into a water mist FMIC setup brule, there are a heap of youtube vids on this MCM even done this on their MX5 by memory

[Brule]

I don't think your allowed to run external cooling devices at the track.

The example I had a look at on the MCM dropped 14.6f just cruising at 70km.

It was literally a $20 setup, a meth kit setup with a few sprayers on the intecooler would be good and I wouldnt have to put that corrosive stuff inside the engine.

That would nearly be enough to keep my timing in check.

[Brule]

After reading about bushings I ended up getting:

Whiteline subframe bushings
Whiteline Diff bushing kit 2 front and 1 rear

Trying to order Rogue transmission mounts and toe arms but having trouble being an international buyer.

Found msport 17 wheels for $250 but they are in Melbourne.

[Brule]

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/keilo...e9x/1113266227

[titium]

Megan racing toe arms -amazon
Re trans mounts - hp autosport

I used Australia post mail forwarder (shopmate) to get both here. Trans mounts can probably be had a little cheaper but the service and advice provided to me by harold at hpa is second to none. Was cheaper to use the mail forwarder for the mounts however they can be shipped direct from hpa.

[Brule]

I was comparing Megan and rogue and rogue had "better ball joint" and it had a grease nipple so I chose rogue.

I'll check hp auto sport

[Brule]

Originally Posted by Joeyy

are the wheels scratched up? for that price it should be, got a link by any chance

The wheels are also 17s so who really wants to buy small wheels these days. I sold my own 19s for 400. Just hope they are straight cause it will cost another 300+ to get them up here

[titium]

Originally Posted by Brule

I was comparing Megan and rogue and rogue had "better ball joint" and it had a grease nipple so I chose rogue.

I'll check hp auto sport

cool. there was a reason why i chose Megan can't exactly remember why i think it was cause they where the only ones which had no reported issues of cluncking even after many miles (they are heaver from memory then the RE arms but that didn't bother me).

when i spoke to harold he said the order to do the arms in terms of most to least improvement should be guide rods, toe arms, camber link, upper arms. I didnt bother with the camber link (need m3 shocks) or upper arms.