[dumitru.o]

for the wiring, i did it as simple and as original as possible:

- ground for the ACC was connected at the ground point under the hood
- the wiring going inside the car was routed as follows:
a) power wire went all the way to the fuse box, a pin was crimped and inserted in the original location F21
b) 15WUP_AC was connected directly to the CAS plus (with pin crimped on the wire)
c) PT CAN went to a splitter (will explain bellow)

for the LDM the wiring was done as follows:

a) ground wire went to the ground point under the carpet (driver's side)
b) power wire went to the fusebox, pin crimped and inserted in the location of F64 (because F65 as in diagrams was already used)
c) PT CAN went to the same splitter as the ACC
d) 15WUP went to another splitter created on the CAS

you don t need to feed the wiring all the way to the junction box, only the power wires should go that far. i preferred to use the method of splitters because this allowed me to make a clean install and not to tap or cut any of the car's original wiring.
for splitters i did like this:

on the FRM's plug where i had the PT CAN, i took the pins out of FRM's plug and insert them in my own 2pin plug from which i created 3 (2pin) outputs: 1st going to FRM, 2nd going to ACC, 3rd going to LDM

on the CAS's plug where i had the 15WUP i took the pin out from CAS's plug and insert it in my own (2pin) plug from which i created 2 outputs: 1st going to the CAS plug and second going to the LDM plug

unfortunately i didn t took pictures but i have one to explain one of the splitters

PS: this is the splitter i used for the release trunk switch (it s the instrument and locator lighting, Terminal 58 wire). the same principle i used to split the wiring for the PT CAN and 15WUP.

Note! My car has adaptive headlights and therefor it has the PT CAN wiring into the FRM's plug. If your car doesn t have the adaptive headlights, then it will not have PT CAN signal at the FRM, you have to use the PT CAN from junction box

[dumitru.o]

Nickco43 - is your car having Adaptive Headlights? if not, then you don t have the PT_CAN wired to the FRM module. have you installed PT_CAN to the FRM?

from what i read in TIS, PT_CAN connection to the FRM module is needed for Active Cruise Control

Quote:

FRM: Footwell module

When cruise control is in operation, the brake lights are actuated during automatic braking (legal requirement). To this end, a signal must be sent from the DSC to the footwell module via the PT-CAN.

The option ”Active Cruise Control” uses the “turn signals” signal from the footwell module for assistance when changing lanes. In other words, if a left turn signal is given before overtaking, the distance to the vehicle in front is reduced. The vehicle to be overtaken is “ignored” more easily. Conversely, in the event of a change to the right-hand lane, a vehicle driving there is registered more quickly.
With the vehicle's own calculated expected lane, the sideways deviation of each monitored object can be determined for the vehicle's own lane.

source: New TIS

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

Nickco43 - is your car having Adaptive Headlights? if not, then you don t have the PT_CAN wired to the FRM module. have you installed PT_CAN to the FRM?

from what i read in TIS, PT_CAN connection to the FRM module is needed for Active Cruise Control

Quote:

FRM: Footwell module

When cruise control is in operation, the brake lights are actuated during automatic braking (legal requirement). To this end, a signal must be sent from the DSC to the footwell module via the PT-CAN.

The option ”Active Cruise Control” uses the “turn signals” signal from the footwell module for assistance when changing lanes. In other words, if a left turn signal is given before overtaking, the distance to the vehicle in front is reduced. The vehicle to be overtaken is “ignored” more easily. Conversely, in the event of a change to the right-hand lane, a vehicle driving there is registered more quickly.
With the vehicle's own calculated expected lane, the sideways deviation of each monitored object can be determined for the vehicle's own lane.

source: New TIS

My car has factory adaptive xenon lights

[dumitru.o]

then you are good

just got my 335i kombi and will fit it in the weekend but before that i will update the M3 kombi to the latest iLevel.....maybe maybe it works also with that one !

LE: the picture in your signature doen't seem to show adaptive headlight. my inner lens is not the same as yours. can you post a clear photo of your headlights?

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

then you are good

just got my 335i kombi and will fit it in the weekend but before that i will update the M3 kombi to the latest iLevel.....maybe maybe it works also with that one !

LE: the picture in your signature doen't seem to show adaptive headlight. my inner lens is not the same as yours. can you post a clear photo of your headlights?

Lci pre lci different

[unrulyteach]

Nickco is there a way to possible change the speed threshold thru coding for instance to make it like stop and go traffic?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by unrulyteach

Nickco is there a way to possible change the speed threshold thru coding for instance to make it like stop and go traffic?

You would have to code custom values in the nettodat file on he LDM and Acc sensor. Keep in mind this is only a long range sensor not meant for stop + go.

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

You would have to code custom values in the nettodat file on he LDM and Acc sensor. Keep in mind this is only a long range sensor not meant for stop + go.

I'm just curious if it was possible

[unrulyteach]

Everything is coming together. Harness should be here tomorrow, stalk Wednesday, just waiting on trim pieces from dealer

[dumitru.o]

i have some good news and some very good news.

- the good news it s that i tried with 335i cluster and everything as working as expected (regarding the ACC)
- the very good news it s that ACC is working with the M3 cluster just fine , it s just not showing the icons above the LCD, only the icons inside the LCD are shown (when the ACC is deactivated because the car in front has completely stopped by example). i suspect the LEDs to light up the icons are missing from the PCB, and if that's the case, then i will swap them from the 335 cluster.....soooon

BTW: i will also do the heated steering wheel retrofit, i have bought everything, just wait them to be delivered

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

i have some good news and some very good news.

- the good news it s that i tried with 335i cluster and everything as working as expected (regarding the ACC)
- the very good news it s that ACC is working with the M3 cluster just fine , it s just not showing the icons above the LCD, only the icons inside the LCD are shown (when the ACC is deactivated because the car in front has completely stopped by example). i suspect the LEDs to light up the icons are missing from the PCB, and if that's the case, then i will swap them from the 335 cluster.....soooon

BTW: i will also do the heated steering wheel retrofit, i have bought everything, just wait them to be delivered

Typical junkyards painting the clear plastic on the cluster

[dumitru.o]

yeah, people without brain.........

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

for the wiring, i did it as simple and as original as possible:

- ground for the ACC was connected at the ground point under the hood
- the wiring going inside the car was routed as follows:
a) power wire went all the way to the fuse box, a pin was crimped and inserted in the original location F21
b) 15WUP_AC was connected directly to the CAS plus (with pin crimped on the wire)
c) PT CAN went to a splitter (will explain bellow)

for the LDM the wiring was done as follows:

a) ground wire went to the ground point under the carpet (driver's side)
b) power wire went to the fusebox, pin crimped and inserted in the location of F64 (because F65 as in diagrams was already used)
c) PT CAN went to the same splitter as the ACC
d) 15WUP went to another splitter created on the CAS

you don t need to feed the wiring all the way to the junction box, only the power wires should go that far. i preferred to use the method of splitters because this allowed me to make a clean install and not to tap or cut any of the car's original wiring.
for splitters i did like this:

on the FRM's plug where i had the PT CAN, i took the pins out of FRM's plug and insert them in my own 2pin plug from which i created 3 (2pin) outputs: 1st going to FRM, 2nd going to ACC, 3rd going to LDM

on the CAS's plug where i had the 15WUP i took the pin out from CAS's plug and insert it in my own (2pin) plug from which i created 2 outputs: 1st going to the CAS plug and second going to the LDM plug

unfortunately i didn t took pictures but i have one to explain one of the splitters

PS: this is the splitter i used for the release trunk switch (it s the instrument and locator lighting, Terminal 58 wire). the same principle i used to split the wiring for the PT CAN and 15WUP.

Note! My car has adaptive headlights and therefor it has the PT CAN wiring into the FRM's plug. If your car doesn t have the adaptive headlights, then it will not have PT CAN signal at the FRM, you have to use the PT CAN from junction box

So u tap the pt - can from frm and not dsc module like in the video?

[dumitru.o]

which video?

my advice is not to tap any wires in the engine compartment because those wires are well insulated and breaking that will not be good for the future (risk of corrosion)

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

which video?

my advice is not to tap any wires in the engine compartment because those wires are well insulated and breaking that will not be good for the future (risk of corrosion)

There is a diy out there where the guy had to add ldm same as me, so the only pt can was close to everything was his dcs i guess. But since i hav AHL from factory i can tap in pin 43 and 44 of frm correct?

[dumitru.o]

that's correct

[dumitru.o]

Work in progress

We missed one SMD (red circled) and the car icon doesn t light up in red. Will swap the SMD tomorrow then test the kombi back on the car

So far so good

[dumitru.o]

the resistor was swapped but the car icon still don t light up in red on the test, on bench. tomorrow the kombi will be installed in the car

can you post a video with the instrument cluster test? i am curious if the car is lighted both red and yellow

thanks

[dumitru.o]

Tested on live traffic! All works good but the car still don t light up in red...i am missing something but i will find out soon

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

Tested on live traffic! All works good but the car still don t light up in red...i am missing something but i will find out soon

I forgot to send you a video of my cluster boot up.

[unrulyteach]

What gauge wire would i need to use to extend factory wires?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by unrulyteach

What gauge wire would i need to use to extend factory wires?

18 gauge for power, 20 gauge for data