[Hoper]

Nice one Pete, glad you decided to share, if I had a big enough brain to figure this stuff out I'm sure I'd share it too

[Kooshi3]

Peter - Just wanted to chime in and let you know the wealth information that you have put here together is amazing and your willingness to share is very much appreciated!

Keep up the great work - The car looks amazing! Thank you from those watching your cars progression on the other side of the pond.

-Kooshi3

[wu2x]

Thanks for sharing your discoveries and moving the platform forward Peter!

[Superwofy]

Not meaning to hijack the thread, I flashed a non-M DSC to the M3DSC tonight and there was nothing special to be done.

Original ZB was 6862873.
I flashed it in expert mode with ZB 7846816 (only one)


You need a DSC90 abs unit. I believe this is standard on 6 cylinder cars, don't know. I was worried about the size difference in 0pa files (1822kb vs 2059kb) but the flash went fine. UIF updating failed so the ZB number reads 000000. This may be fixable with tool32 or you know, just flash again in comfort mode.

I then coded with blank man file and *WD92, $2MD in the VO. Then used ISTA/D to do the valve adjustment, error clearing. All working.


DSC switch will have to be rewired. 1M M-drive works now, throttle is quite touchy but I like it. I'm experimenting to see if I can make servotronic switch between COMFORT_STROM and SPORT_STROM. I'm pretty sure MDM works but without the switch I can't tell.

Parts:
IKM0S MSD81,
M3DSC flash,
M3 2MD SZL,
CIC with newer software (MDRIVE_RUEKO needs to be aktiv so source button doesn't work anymore)
M3 kombi (probably optional but the EPS warning will go on instead of Mdrive)
*rewire DSC switch

Enjoy.


P.S I am getting some cruise control errors surrounding LDM. My car is 08/03 with 544 so no LDM. I am adding one for ACC so we'll see if the M3DSC can work with active cruise...

[Pete.J]

Originally Posted by Superwofy

Not meaning to hijack the thread, I flashed a non-M DSC to the M3DSC tonight and there was nothing special to be done.

No worries at all mate, I am more than happy for people to contribute, I've recently started a new Engineering job in the Oil & Gas industry, and haven't had a free minute for my hobbies in 2 months

Originally Posted by Superwofy

Original ZB was 6862873.
I flashed it in expert mode with ZB 7846816 (only one)


You need a DSC90 abs unit. I believe this is standard on 6 cylinder cars, don't know. I was worried about the size difference in 0pa files (1822kb vs 2059kb) but the flash went fine. UIF updating failed so the ZB number reads 000000. This may be fixable with tool32 or you know, just flash again in comfort mode.

Thanks for your input, yeah it's not a hard process by any means, all the memory blocks of both DSC ECU's lineup perfectly, there are a couple of empty blocks in the 1M DSC from memory, hence why the size difference comparing the 0pa files, but apart from that, there's nothing to worry about.

The 1M DSC software is atrocious, it's way too interfering. The E82 1M is naturally a much more unstable chassis than the non-M cars, very short and wide wheelbase, running massive sway bars for its size and weight (specially the rear bar), soft springs, dampers with high compression, it also uses the same GKN Visco-Lok LSD diff from the E9x M3, which is quite slow to react, and doesn't work well on cars with short wheelbases (due to lifting the inside wheel off the ground when thrown hard around sharp corners, free spinning of inside wheel for ~0.3s, then sudden locking of the LSD clutches causes the rear end to go into snap oversteer). The least sorted car to ever come out of BMW ///M is the E82 1M, it was a rush job, and a parts bin special pretty much. Some people will argue that that's what makes it fun and special, but I disagree personally.

As a result of the above, BMW programmed the 1M DSC software to be very interfering to catch you in case you lose control of the car. Even when you fully turn off DSC, you still have stuff like CBC (Corner Brake Control)... etc. remain on, which isn't the case on the E9x M3.

The solution to above, is to flash the 1M DSC software, and then code the NETTODAT file with the data from the M3 GTS Coupe. The M3 GTS was sold from factory with wider and gripper tyres, Pirelli P ZERO CORSA in 255 wide Front and 285 wide Rear, and out of box it had crap load more grip than any other E8x/9x car. It had KW Clubsport 3-way coilovers, stiff springs, stiff dampening, solid subframe mounts... etc.

Most of the enthusiast-owned N54/55 cars are already on a similar level of suspension setup to the M3 GTS. So it's a good idea to mimic the M3 GTS values across to the 1M DSC software (or even non-M DSC). Also, if you don't have a LSD yet, remember to turn on the e-diff lock in the 1M DSC too, cause ///M cars have it off from factory cause they came with a LSD of course.

Originally Posted by Superwofy

P.S I am getting some cruise control errors surrounding LDM. My car is 08/03 with 544 so no LDM. I am adding one for ACC so we'll see if the M3DSC can work with active cruise...

Believe it or not, 1M didn't come with ACC (Active Cruise Control), it only came with the mediocre base CC (Cruise Control) that you get on a 116i hatchback , and the 1M DSC is hardcoded for that.

After many wasted hours of messing around, I still managed to get ACC working on the 1M DSC, however it doesn't display my cruise control speed on the cluster. You know that dot that 3er have on the cluster that travel up and down on the speedo to indicate the speed that ACC is set to? 1er cars and 1M don't have it, so the DSC will never provide the cluster with this data to display.

Ultimately, if you're not too hooked on having that ///M button on the steering wheel, I recommend sticking with the original DSC, and code it to be fun (copy NETTODAT data from the M3 GTS, turn off nannies... etc. I'll do a writeup on this next week, as I've been asked way too many times over the last 2 years or so).

Originally Posted by Superwofy

DSC switch will have to be rewired. 1M M-drive works now

On non-M cars the signal is carried through the JBBF, on the E9x M3 the signal is carried through the MSS60 DME, on the 1M the signal goes straight to the DSC module itself.

Originally Posted by Superwofy

throttle is quite touchy but I like it.

I hated the 1M throttle calibration with the M button pressed, 30% accelerator input, gets translated to 60% throttle input , by the time you press 60% of the pedal travel, it's full throttle already, and the rest of the pedal is a deadzone, rubbish! what the hell where they doing?! , it's a stupid way to trick the noobs that the car wakes up or becomes more responsive with the press of button.

I prefer linear throttle on these cars, specially when tuned, they make a lot of low end torque and it's very hard to control wheel spin on corner exit, makes it harder to drive and you end up with slower overall track times.

I have changed the throttle request table on the tune to make the ///M button throttle very flattened, to give me as much precise control on power output as possible. 10% pedal travel is 10% torque request, 20% pedal travel is 20% torque request. 80% is 80%... etc.

When the M button is not pressed, I also runs a semi-linear throttle mapping on the tune, not as flattened, but still not as stupidly overboosted as the stock 1M ///M button mode.

Originally Posted by Superwofy

I'm experimenting to see if I can make servotronic switch between COMFORT_STROM and SPORT_STROM. I'm pretty sure MDM works but without the switch I can't tell.

Won't work, the MSS60 DME used for the V8 S65 motor controls the steering weight (controls all of //M Drive functions actually), I have the MSS60 OLS file, and there's a table for it there. There are 2 modes, "Komfort" and "Sport", if you graph the data in the tables, you can see the difference in steering weight. On the 1M (and all other non-M cars), the Servotronic is controlled by the JBBF module (must be at minimum JBBF2), there's one table there instead of the two in the E9x M3 (one for comfort and one for sport), and it has the steering assistance plotted against the vehicle speed. All the data is hardcoded, and you can't switch between two presets using the //M button on the steering wheel like you can on the E9x M3 (1M doesn't have this feature either).

But you can hardcode your own data in the JBBF, and just let it be, I personally prefer consistency with these things, would rather have the steering wheel behave similarly under all circumstances. Much easier to improve my driving skills that way, instead of having different modes with different steering feels to go through... etc.

[Superwofy]

Thanks for taking the time to write out such a detailed post Peter.

Originally Posted by PeterY

The 1M DSC software is atrocious, it's way too interfering. The E82 1M is naturally a much more unstable chassis than the non-M cars, very short and wide wheelbase, running massive sway bars for its size and weight (specially the rear bar), soft springs, dampers with high compression, it also uses the same GKN Visco-Lok LSD diff from the E9x M3, which is quite slow to react, and doesn't work well on cars with short wheelbases (due to lifting the inside wheel off the ground when thrown hard around sharp corners, free spinning of inside wheel for ~0.3s, then sudden locking of the LSD clutches causes the rear end to go into snap oversteer). The least sorted car to ever come out of BMW ///M is the E82 1M, it was a rush job, and a parts bin special pretty much. Some people will argue that that's what makes it fun and special, but I disagree personally.

As a result of the above, BMW programmed the 1M DSC software to be very interfering to catch you in case you lose control of the car. Even when you fully turn off DSC, you still have stuff like CBC (Corner Brake Control)... etc. remain on, which isn't the case on the E9x M3.

The solution to above, is to flash the 1M DSC software, and then code the NETTODAT file with the data from the M3 GTS Coupe. The M3 GTS was sold from factory with Michelin Cup 2 tyres, and out of box it had crap load more grip than any other E8x/9x car. It had KW Clubsport 3-way coilovers, stiff springs, stiff dampening, solid subframe mounts... etc.

Interesting take on the 1M . I think there is a tiny bit of confusion here though. ZB 7846816 is the M3 flash for the DSC. Friction coefficients, CBC etc. is already set up like it is on an E92 M3 (WD92-RHD).

Originally Posted by PeterY

Believe it or not, 1M didn't come with ACC (Active Cruise Control), it only came with the mediocre base CC (Cruise Control) that you get on a 116i hatchback , and the 1M DSC is hardcoded for that.

After many wasted hours of messing around, I still managed to get ACC working on the 1M DSC, however it doesn't display my cruise control speed on the cluster. You know that dot that 3er have on the cluster that travel up and down on the speedo to indicate the speed that ACC is set to? 1er cars and 1M don't have it, so the DSC will never provide the cluster with this data to display.

Ultimately, if you're not too hooked on having that ///M button on the steering wheel, I recommend sticking with the orignal DSC, and code it to be fun (copy NETTODAT data from the M3 GTS, turn off nannies... etc. I'll do a writeup on this next week, as I've been asked way too many times over the last 2 years or so).

What I was after with this 'retrofit' was the ability to switch modes. For novelty's sake, nothing else really. I was adding parts one by one and kept the DSC last since I knew cruise control and E-diff would no longer work. My original plan was to inject 0x1D9/0x399 with and MCP2515 on kcan/pt-can but it didn't quite work out.

Let's see what happens when I add LDM and ACC modules. If the DSC responds to braking requests it might work. But that begs the question, why didn't BMW offer this expensive option on the M3/1M?
Target buyer wouldn't be interested? Another grill to design for the front bumper? etc.

Originally Posted by PeterY

I hated the 1M throttle calibration with the M button pressed, 30% accelerator input, gets translated to 60% throttle input , by the time you press 60% of the pedal travel, it's full throttle already, and the rest of the pedal is a deadzone, rubbish! what the hell where they doing?! , it's a stupid way to trick the noobs that the car wakes up or becomes more responsive with the press of button.

I prefer linear throttle on these cars, specially when tuned, they make a lot of low end torque and it's very hard to control wheel spin on corner exit, makes it harder to drive and you end up with slower overall track times.

I have changed the throttle request table on the tune to make the ///M button throttle very flattened, to give me as much precise control on power output as possible. 10% pedal travel is 10% torque request, 20% pedal travel is 20% torque request. 80% is 80%... etc.

When the M button is not pressed, I also runs a semi-linear throttle mapping on the tune, not as flattened, but still not as stupidly overboosted as the stock 1M ///M button mode.

Yeah, after driving a bit more I feel like it's kind of gimmicky. It's still sort of cool on my car because the flywheel has so much play in it at this point it sort of livens up the throttle for rev matching. That being said, taking off smoothly in 1st gear in traffic is basically impossible. Will probably tone it down with the xdf.

Originally Posted by PeterY

Won't work, the MSS60 DME used for the V8 S65 motor controls the steering weight (controls all of //M Drive functions actually), I have the MSS60 OLS file, and there's a table for it there. There are 2 modes, "Komfort" and "Sport", if you graph the data in the tables, you can see the difference in steering weight. On the 1M (and all other non-M cars), the Servotronic is controlled by the JBBF module (must be at minimum JBBF2), there's one table there instead of the two in the E9x M3 (one for comfort and one for sport), and it has the steering assistance plotted against the vehicle speed. All the data is hardcoded, and you can't switch between two presets using the //M button on the steering wheel like you can on the E9x M3 (1M doesn't have this feature either).

But you can hardcode your own data in the JBBF, and just let it be, I personally prefer consistency with these things, would rather have the steering wheel behave similarly under all circumstances. Much easier to improve my driving skills that way, instead of having different modes with different steering feels to go through... etc.

Yes, I already had some hardcoded values in JBBFE3R for slightly more assist since the pump is a bit weaker on non-N54T.

There are actually two tables SPORT and COMFORT in the jbf however, they're both set to the same values. I wonder why they bothered to define two tables in the coding map but then didn't use them.

I was sort of hoping the M switch might be able to toggle between them but no, always COMFORT. I created custom parameters for both and I can confirm that SPORT is always ignored.



Lastly, you mentioned enabling ediff in the MDSC. How do you do this? I did not see any coding parameter to do so. C0F_DIFF_LOCK or anything similar is absent. Did you mean lat_ebd?

[Aus335iguy]

I have nothing to add here except wow...

[timblack]

Originally Posted by PeterY

The solution to above, is to flash the 1M DSC software, and then code the NETTODAT file with the data from the M3 GTS Coupe. The M3 GTS was sold from factory with Michelin Cup 2 tyres, and out of box it had crap load more grip than any other E8x/9x car. It had KW Clubsport 3-way coilovers, stiff springs, stiff dampening, solid subframe mounts... etc.

Most of the enthusiast-owned N54/55 cars are already on a similar level of suspension setup to the M3 GTS. So it's a good idea to mimic the M3 GTS values across to the 1M DSC software (or even non-M DSC). Also, if you don't have a LSD yet, remember to turn on the e-dif lock in the 1M DSC too, cause ///M cars have it off from factory cause they came with a LSD of course.

Hey Pete,

I'm very interested in coding my 135i DSC to better match my suspension setup.

I'm wondering why you have to flash the 1M DSC software when you have an E92? Can't you code the NETTODAT file into your factory DSC?

Looking forward to your write up. I'm happy to be a guinea pig on the E82 platform as well, if you want to do some testing.

Tim

[Pete.J]

Originally Posted by Superwofy

Interesting take on the 1M . I think there is a tiny bit of confusion here though. ZB 7846816 is the M3 flash for the DSC. Friction coefficients, CBC etc. is already set up like it is on an E92 M3 (WD92-RHD).

Whooops! I thought you said you flashed the 1MDSC, my bad, I misread. M3 GTS data is more aggressive than standard E9x M3, presumably because of the way its suspension was set up out of the box.

If running the M3DSC, then you'll never be able to turn on DTC/MDM, your DSC will only work as fully on or fully off (button will only work when wired too, otherwise nothing happens when you press the button atm).

The MSS60 DME is responsible on getting MDM running on the E9x M3, it's impossible (or at least I haven't found or heard of a way yet) to have a half-switched off traction control mode (MDM) on the M3DSC, without a MSS60 DME from the M3. The only N54 car that I know off that has this working exactly like the M3, has an additional donor MSS60 DME sitting in the DME box and hooked up to the CANBUS (very inefficient way to get it done imo).

Originally Posted by Superwofy

Let's see what happens when I add LDM and ACC modules. If the DSC responds to braking requests it might work. But that begs the question, why didn't BMW offer this expensive option on the M3/1M?
Target buyer wouldn't be interested? Another grill to design for the front bumper? etc.

M3's never came with LDM or Adaptive Cruise Control, the switches' cluster that sits under the steering wheel is different for cars with LDM and Adaptive Cruise, so if you fit it, you'll lose the ///M button functionality on the steering wheel (signal routed differently from the button by the different switches' cluster installed).

I remember reading in the M3 technical documentation many years ago, that the sensor will require changes to be made to the front bumper design, which will come in the way of cooling efficiency for track work.

M3 had Active Cruise Control, but it was partially controlled by the MSS60 DME, can't get it running without the MSS60, however 1M (or any 1er) never had Active Cruise (and of course Adaptive Cruise never came on these cars either).

Originally Posted by Superwofy

Yes, I already had some hardcoded values in JBBFE3R for slightly more assist since the pump is a bit weaker on non-N54T.

There are actually two tables SPORT and COMFORT in the jbf however, they're both set to the same values. I wonder why they bothered to define two tables in the coding map but then didn't use them.

I was sort of hoping the M switch might be able to toggle between them but no, always COMFORT. I created custom parameters for both and I can confirm that SPORT is always ignored.

Interesting, mine only had one table from memory, maybe cause I have one of the very early JBBF modules. I haven't wired the steering rack solenoid yet actually, still rocking it with very minimal assistance, feels meaty and fantastic haha

Originally Posted by Superwofy

Lastly, you mentioned enabling ediff in the MDSC. How do you do this? I did not see any coding parameter to do so. C0F_DIFF_LOCK or anything similar is absent. Did you mean lat_ebd?

Nah lat_ebd is Lateral Electronic Brakeforce Distribution or also called cornering EBD, e-diff for the 1M/M3 DSC's isn't defined in the NCS files, because it's absolutely unnecessary and not expected to need to turn on the e-diff functionality on a 1M or a M3, cause they come from factory with a proper LSD. So you have to do it manually through NETTODAT coding, change the below from "0B" or "0A" to "2B".

[Nickco43]

Older 335i cars have a DSC87 instead of a DSC90. I just found that out today when I went to flash the MDSC firmware.

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

Older 335i cars have a DSC87 instead of a DSC90. I just found that out today when I went to flash the MDSC firmware.

Interesting. I suppose given that you can flash any firmware on any DSC 90 just buy the cheapest one on eBay and away you go

[Pete.J]

Massive thanks to vtl for organising, and Jin@Eastern BM for hosting the dyno day, and Nathan for performing the runs. There was a great variety of cars, including two E92 M3’s, Stage 2 B58 F20 M140i and a tuned F13 M6 I have uploaded all the results of the dyno day HERE.

My car made 257.5rwkW on Mainline dynamometer, on custom 98ulp FBO tune, catless downpipes (3” AR Design), and Wagner EVO2 FMIC. All three runs were within 0.1kW from each other I got 257.4rwkW, 257.5rwkW and 257.4rwkW, 0.03% difference across 3 runs, awesome consistency!!!

It made the highest power out of any stock turbos FBO N54 car on the day (full results of all cars here), and 30rwkW more than MHD OTS Stage2+ map (recorded on the same day, in the same conditions on the same dyno by another healthy car).

All that while running very safe on just 98ulp, didn’t puff any sort of smoke from the exhaust at all (MHD tuned cars always seemed to have a whiff of black smoke, which also indicate timing correction by the DME, or running rich), the custom tune has less boost and timing than what MHD runs and still made more power , and it’s also more fuel efficient for daily driving (my AFR's are set to lean cruise, target 16:1 on low load cruise situation), and lastly the engine runs cooler overall (reduced the VANOS cam overlap which reduces EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation, which heats up the engine head, this is one of the reasons these cars run too hot, even at just cruise speeds).

I got zero timing corrections on all 3 runs, and that’s with soaring IAT’s (ranged 39-48c). That’s reassuring for the track, cause my IAT’s always hover around 50c at the track, and causes a lot of timing to be pulled by the DME to protect the motor.

I’ve easily put 150-200 hours and done numerous logs for that tune over the last 6 months, has been a huge learning curve for me, but well worth it, cause car is running absolutely fantastic, very smooth, and super safe at the same, happy days

Video of run and a coupe of pics:

[eastsidaz]

Nice result Would be interested to see more about your VANOS settings about reducing the cam overlap. Did you mainly reduce it in the idle and cruise area?

[Superwofy]

Originally Posted by PeterY

Nah lat_ebd is Lateral Electronic Brakeforce Distribution or also called cornering EBD, e-diff for the 1M/M3 DSC's isn't defined in the NCS files, because it's absolutely unnecessary and not expected to need to turn on the e-diff functionality on a 1M or a M3, cause they come from factory with a proper LSD. So you have to do it manually through NETTODAT coding, change the below from "0B" or "0A" to "2B".

I assume the way you enabled ACC is NETTODAT at 00300012 to enable ECBA.

"Additional DSC functions
ECBA interface (Electronic Control
Brake Actuation) for ACC via LDM
(Longitudinal Dynamics Management)
The ACC request in the DSC with regard to
pressure build-up, pressure recording and
modulation at the wheel brakes is optimally
implemented in terms of deceleration and
comfort via the ECBS interface."


On the M3DSC I'm unable to change Nettodat for diff lock or ECBA. Always getting this:

[SERIE] 2061 PABD/CABD A_E65.IPS NettoDat 450
[SERIE] Fehler beim Codierdaten schreiben DSC_87, C_C_AUFTRAG: ERROR_ECU_REQUEST_OUT_OF_RANGE


Unmodified E92 m3 nettodat CI.08:

B 00300000,0010,8F,03,00,AB,E6,CD,A6,80,40,B3,03,E5,E4,7A,20,00
B 00300010,0010,00,00,00,00,80,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00
B 00300020,0010,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00, 00,00,00,00
B 00300100,0001,07




No idea why NCS fails to write to these sections. Was wondering if you encountered similar problems? I may just flash it to E82M and mess around with the coefficients. Can you confirm that the E82M dtc button is wired directly to the DSC block? Newtis doesn't list the DSC switch diagram like it does for E92.

[imap777]

Hello PeterY

I am finishing my AT to DCT swap - your posts helped a lot. I have a question on the ZSL part - you said I need one from an M car (1M or M3) to have the M option operating. But when I am looking at OEM parts, it seems that part #61319123049 fits a long list of BMW car, including M3. Any suggestions on this? 🤔
Check the "fits these cars" at the link below.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/61319123049/

[Pete.J]

Originally Posted by imap777

Hello PeterY

I am finishing my AT to DCT swap - your posts helped a lot. I have a question on the ZSL part - you said I need one from an M car (1M or M3) to have the M option operating. But when I am looking at OEM parts, it seems that part #61319123049 fits a long list of BMW car, including M3. Any suggestions on this? 🤔
Check the "fits these cars" at the link below.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/61319123049/

Not all M3's came with ///M button, so you need a SZL from a M3 with ///M Drive (or any 1M). It's a bit of joke that you had to pay extra to get a ///M button on a ///M car hahah.

The part number you posted above is for non-M cars and M3's that didn't come with M Drive.

So the correct part you need is, 61319123060.

Use the below screenshot as a reference.

Pete

[mwa12E93]

you are a facking genius. There was a semi-casual mention of bluetooth connection w/ a gopro to the CIC iDrive. Is it possible that the same trick would work to stream video from my iPhone to the iDrive?

[tvrdas]

Great car build. Can you help me with DSC settings? Its better to get M3 DSC or flash 335i DSC? Got 335i with LSD and im looking for better settings to my track build.

[Pete.J]

I've been super busy with work, and I took my car on a driving trip for a few days in Tasmania with some friends

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

Nice result Would be interested to see more about your VANOS settings about reducing the cam overlap. Did you mainly reduce it in the idle and cruise area?

So BMW uses VANOS mainly for efficiency not for power. Exhaust gas is inert, and doesn't have much oxygen for combustion, the DME uses the VANOS solenoids to control the valve opening time to create a slight overlap between the exhaust and intake cams.

This will allow some of the exhaust gas to recirculate back inside the cylinder, and go backwards towards the intake manifold, instead of having all of exhaust gas escaping out of the exhaust valves.

On the next combustion cycle, when fresh air comes through, the cylinders won't be completely filled up with fresh air, they'll be partially filled with fresh air and partially filled with recirculated exhaust gas from the previous combustion cycle.

This effectively reduces the engine size, because exhaust gas is inert, so if you fill 20% of the cylinder capacity with inert gas, you've effectively reduced the size of the engine from 3.0L down to 2.4L, so it improves fuel economy by making it behave like a smaller engine.

The above, is why BMW has never bothered with all these cylinder deactivating/disabling techniques that American and some Jap car manufacturers applied to their engines.

Downside to the above, the engine head runs hotter when EGR is active, because the exhaust gas is very hot obviously. The other discovery, a friend of mine found out that if the EGR is disabled, the engine doesn't require to be walnut blasted as often. The theory is, the hot exhaust gases flowing back through the intake valves, cause the oil film on the intake valves to get caked on the valves forming that solidified carbon powder you see on the intake valves and ports. After disabling EGR, intake valves look spotless after 13,000km. They just have a slight grey-ish shade, I'll wait till I've put 30,000km on it since reducing EGR and recheck.

I didn't it disable it completely, only just reduced it by significant margin. I haven't been paying attention to fuel consumption, so I can't comment on that, but I reckon there'll be a slight increase with EGR reduced. Wrong cars to buy for fuel economy anyway haha

When the engine is underload, or any situation where you're hard on the throttle, the DME disables EGR immediately and cylinders gets fed fresh cold compressed air for best power output.

Originally Posted by Superwofy

I assume the way you enabled ACC is NETTODAT at 00300012 to enable ECBA.

"Additional DSC functions
ECBA interface (Electronic Control
Brake Actuation) for ACC via LDM
(Longitudinal Dynamics Management)
The ACC request in the DSC with regard to
pressure build-up, pressure recording and
modulation at the wheel brakes is optimally
implemented in terms of deceleration and
comfort via the ECBS interface."


On the M3DSC I'm unable to change Nettodat for diff lock or ECBA. Always getting this:

[SERIE] 2061 PABD/CABD A_E65.IPS NettoDat 450
[SERIE] Fehler beim Codierdaten schreiben DSC_87, C_C_AUFTRAG: ERROR_ECU_REQUEST_OUT_OF_RANGE


Unmodified E92 m3 nettodat CI.08:

B 00300000,0010,8F,03,00,AB,E6,CD,A6,80,40,B3,03,E5,E4,7A,20,00
B 00300010,0010,00,00,00,00,80,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00
B 00300020,0010,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00, 00,00,00,00
B 00300100,0001,07




No idea why NCS fails to write to these sections. Was wondering if you encountered similar problems? I may just flash it to E82M and mess around with the coefficients. Can you confirm that the E82M dtc button is wired directly to the DSC block? Newtis doesn't list the DSC switch diagram like it does for E92.

Interesting, I didn't have any issues when I coded mine, it worked from the first time with no issues.

I looked up the wiring diagram for the E9x M3 and the E82 1M DTC button a while back, and they both go straight to the DSC module (not through the JBBF like the non-M cars). Check the wiring diagrams before doing any work on it.

Originally Posted by mwa12E93

you are a facking genius. There was a semi-casual mention of bluetooth connection w/ a gopro to the CIC iDrive. Is it possible that the same trick would work to stream video from my iPhone to the iDrive?

Can't stream videos on the CIC, only on the NBT iDrive, and it can't be streamed wirelessly. The videos will need to be played off a USB stick plugged in.

Originally Posted by tvrdas

Great car build. Can you help me with DSC settings? Its better to get M3 DSC or flash 335i DSC? Got 335i with LSD and im looking for better settings to my track build.

Flash all the nannies off the 335i DSC, there's nothing wrong with the 335i DSC. The M3 DSC just has a stronger hydraulic pump to cope with the bigger brake calipers. In theory if you're using your car on the track, you don't want much DSC interference anyway, so the weaker DSC pump of the standard 335i is a bliss. Just keep your 335i DSC and kill all the nannies off it by coding.



I've received a ton of pm's about other subjects, I'll reply to them over the next few days, I've just been flat out busy. I try to visit the forums once a week, ends up becoming once every 2 months! So damn busy with work

[Pete.J]

Massive thanks to vtl for helping with installing a full E92 M3 rear end on my car. Including M3 differential, axles, control arms and a custom frankstein prop-shaft.

Can’t believe I waited that long to get a LSD in my car. The difference in grip pulling out of corners is laughable. I was waiting to convert my car to manual first, and then get a LSD in after it’s manual, because the final drive ratio is different between auto and manual. Now that manual conversion was out of the way last year, it was time for exploring LSD options.



Some pointers about the process of retrofitting a M3 rear-end:

1- M3 rear control arms are ball-jointed on one side only, the outboard joint, (except for M3 toe-arms are ball-jointed on both sides). Non-M control arms have rubber bushings on both ends (except for the upper camber arm, which has a ball-joint on one end only). M3 arms are forged aluminium (extremely light) vs folded sheet metal for non-M (heavier, but cheap for mass production).

We manually pressed in ball-joints instead of the rubber in the M3 arms, to make fully ball-joined M3 arms. I already had upgraded adjustable and fully ball-jointed HardRace arms, so these aren’t an upgrade to what I already hard on the car, but I’d rather the OEM look of genuine M3 arms.

The idea is, when you corner very hard, the whole car leans on the control arms, and the rubber bushings at the end of the control arms deform, causing alignment and geometry changes.

Overall the car feels nervous, and unsettled. If you look at rubber bushings, they're just made of a rubber mold with an outer metal shell usually and an inner metal tube where the control arms bolt get threaded through.



Some have air pockets or pockets filled with hydraulic fluid like the cross section below.



If you look at ball-joints cross section, it's a completely solid joint, with zero play!!! It doesn't matter how hard you lean on them mid-corner, you will not be getting any alignment or suspension geometry changes. They transform the car and make it feel very predictable at the limit





Rubber doesn't have a linear spring rate, so it'll compress easily up to a certain point and then gets quite hard to compress it anymore. Ball-joints are nothing like that, they're solid, they don't budge from their place, they don't compress, but they're also a fully articulating joint to allow the control arm to move freely within the geometrical axis it was designed to move in.

Based on all what I wrote above, heavy cars that have wide tyres will be the most disadvantaged with rubber bushings. Cause wide tyres will provide a ton of grip and the heavy weight of the body means that the control arms bushings will get squished in between, dealing with all the stress.

Pictures of my fully ball-jointed M3 arms before installation I've also ball-jointed the trailing arms to have a fully ball-jointed rear axle (my front has been fully ball-jointed for years, one of my first mods, I haven't written about it yet though).



2- M3 rear subframe is stronger and lighter, and has slightly different control arms mounting points, which results in a rear suspension geometry change from non-M cars. The rear sway bar brackets mount slightly more backwards too (this is potentially to provide better clearance).



The below pic is of the standard non-M E92 335i rear subframe, that whole joining section I circled in red, is physically completely different to the M3 subframe.







3- I mounted the subframe solidly to the body, instead of using poly subframe bushings like I did with my old non-M subframe. The biggest noticeable difference was going from non-M rubber bushings to poly subframe mounts. Mounting the subframe solidly, is for chasing the last 10-15% of the performance potential that can be achieved on these cars. I also noticed that the factory M3 rear subframe bushings have a large cast aluminium centre and then a layer of rubber on the outside. They’re easily as stiff as aftermarket poly subframe bushings. There’s a misconception out there that the M3 rear subframe bushings are just soft crappy rubber like non-M, that’s not true, M3 subframe bushings are something like 80% metal core and 20% rubber vs non-M which are predominantly rubber. You can squish non-M rear subframe bushings with your finger, impossible to do that to M3’s. Nevertheless I went with solid mounts like all the F8x M cars. BMW engineers would have definitely realised at some point that there are benefits to be gained from solidly mounting the subframe.





4- M3 axles are huge compared to non-M. The CV-joints in the axles are massive (complete larger cage and balls). This was one of the motivators to fit M3 driveline in order to get a LSD in my car, instead of just putting a LSD centre in my non-M pumpkin.



5- Fitting a M3 LSD in an E9x 135i/335i required a custom prop-shaft. The E92 M3 prop-shaft is too short, because the M3 manual transmission is longer, due to housing a factory twin-plate clutch in the transmission bell-housing. Vince provided me with the measurements, and I got a frankstein prop-shaft made up using an E39 540i prop-shaft and an early 2006 335i prop-shaft (stronger and thicker than newer ones). My prop-shaft was built by “Knox Driveshaft Services” in Melbourne, great service, it came out precisely the length we asked for and well balanced ���� (zero vibrations or sound in the cabin, like commonly seen with poorly made custom prop-shafts).





6- I coded my DSC module to disable the eLSD functionality. Otherwise the car will preemptively keep trying to brake the inside wheel, and it’ll keep fighting itself. No need for this function, now that I have a proper locking clutch-type mechanical LSD.

7- The M3 diff pumpkins has better cooling than the non-M pumpkin. The diff cover is finned to increase the surface area of heat dissipation.





Finally back on the road after 9 hours of hard work!!



Driving impressions:

Very positive so far, I can just floor it and it’ll absolutely just hookup and put the power down. Previously on corner exit, it’d spin the inside wheel for split of sec, the DSC light would flash on the cluster, and then apply the brakes to the inside wheel and it’ll fart from the exhaust (traction control pulling ignition timing to reduce engine torque output), and pull out of corners soooo slow ha ha

Now it just hooks and pulls out corners like it’s on rails! If the tyres can’t provide enough grip, it’ll spin both rear tyres together and swing its tail out like a proper RWD sport car. No hint of traction control intervention unless it’s spinning both wheels together at the same time.

I went to an empty carpark, and drove around in tight figure 8, and I could hear and feel the LSD lockup. I also went to drive up a steep ramp (at the local car wash), with the car on an angle, the inside rear tyre was completely suspended in the air. Released the clutch and lightly accelerated up the slope with one wheel drive only haha. I could hear the LSD clutches locking up, and feel a slight twitch from the rear end, and then it pulled itself up the slope with one wheel driving the whole car only like a champ.

Overall it was worth it, the car has been transformed! The only regret is I didn’t do this much earlier into my ownership.

[Coupes33]

Excellent write up Peter. How is the NVH with the solid bushes installed in the subframe? One of the first modifications, I did to my 335i was to install M3 rear subframe bushes but after a couple of years of annoying NVH, I replaced them with poly bushes which were much better. I had a F80 M3 for a while and found there was more road noise due to the solid bushes compared to the E92.

[Superwofy]

Originally Posted by PeterY

Interesting, I didn't have any issues when I coded mine, it worked from the first time with no issues.

I looked up the wiring diagram for the E9x M3 and the E82 1M DTC button a while back, and they both go straight to the DSC module (not through the JBBF like the non-M cars). Check the wiring diagrams before doing any work on it.

Hi Pete, thanks for taking the time to reply. Last question on this since I don't want to derail your build any further.

I'm quite stuck on how you coded in those sections. I even used tool32 jobs like c_c_lessen and c_c_schreiben with bin buffers to bypass NCS. I'm able to read the nettodat and write it back this way but any attempts to write to the unused sections results in error ecu request out of range (just like NCS since it uses these functions...)

I even tried adding one of the parameters to the datens and the dictionary so it would be a normal parameter but no joy.

There's a function to read from the eeprom and it seems to contain the coding data. Did not see a write function. Perhaps you modified the 0pa?

Originally Posted by PeterY

After many wasted hours of messing around, I still managed to get ACC working on the 1M DSC, however it doesn't display my cruise control speed on the cluster. You know that dot that 3er have on the cluster that travel up and down on the speedo to indicate the speed that ACC is set to? 1er cars and 1M don't have it, so the DSC will never provide the cluster with this data to display.

How exactly did you do this because I'm at a loss. Also, are you sure it was ACC (radar)?
If I don't manage, I think I'll just wire up a dual can shield to trigger stuff on PT when the mfl button is pressed. Code will be on github.