[cstmx_ryder]

Originally Posted by C.Pop

Assuming that you've correctly traced out vacuum lines and replaced/checked/etc, then I'd bet you a grape soda it's your Forge diverter valves.

They need to be rebuilt from time to time. The piston can show signs of galling, which leads to both a vacuum/boost leak as well as sticking diverter valves. You won't make much boost at all when the valves are stuck open.

IMO pick up a rebuild kit, ($20ish from Forge) and carefully rebuild. During reassembly remember that less is more with respect to greasing o-rings/pistons. It's easy to put too much grease on things and screw yourself after a few hundred heat cycles. Since Forge tends to be super slow to respond or ship things (I waited over a month to get my rebuild kits), you can certainly take it apart and clean things or just inspect. I wonder if blow-by contamination plays a role in this.

FWIW I found I needed a shim on the yellow spring for correct operation.

Oh, ya sorry. Forgot to mention that I'll be changing out the boost solenoids and all vacuum lines this weekend. But she was okay for a week or so, now she's not.

I just wanted to vent, that's all....lol.

I've cleaned my Forge DVs, as that was one of the first parts I inspected. There was nothing wrong or broken about the DVs, just a tiny, tiny, tiny bit of blow-by oil, that's it.

[C.Pop]

IMO if you have your oem DV's, it's an easy easy easy change out to eliminate a variable that has a high probability of being cranky.

I'm totally going to enjoy that grape soda...

[cstmx_ryder]

Originally Posted by C.Pop

Assuming that you've correctly traced out vacuum lines and replaced/checked/etc, then I'd bet you a grape soda it's your Forge diverter valves.

They need to be rebuilt from time to time. The piston can show signs of galling, which leads to both a vacuum/boost leak as well as sticking diverter valves. You won't make much boost at all when the valves are stuck open.

IMO pick up a rebuild kit, ($20ish from Forge) and carefully rebuild. During reassembly remember that less is more with respect to greasing o-rings/pistons. It's easy to put too much grease on things and screw yourself after a few hundred heat cycles. Since Forge tends to be super slow to respond or ship things (I waited over a month to get my rebuild kits), you can certainly take it apart and clean things or just inspect. I wonder if blow-by contamination plays a role in this.

FWIW I found I needed a shim on the yellow spring for correct operation.

Please elaborate on how you figured you needed more shim for the DVs?

Reason why I ask is, I've had the Forge DVs w/ Stett CP for well over 2 years, so is the tune (Procede), I haven't changed anything since, not even different maps on Procede. Just curious.

TIA

[C.Pop]

Logs. They weren't holding boost and were slow to seal. The diverter valves are open at idle. If you disconnect the diverter valve outlet hose (diverter valve to intake piping section) you should be able to verify the valve is open at engine idle by feeling air movement at the valve outlet. Mine were not actuating smoothly so there was a hestation.

This was pretty easy to hear, once you have a solid understanding of how the valve is supposed to function, you can pick up when they're sticking or not behaving themselves.

So if you start your car and it's idling, there will be a vacuum in your manifold; this vacuum line runs to the top of the diverter valve and "sucks up" (holds) the piston in a valve-open position, against the spring tension that is pushing the piston into closed position. Once you start driving, and get into boost, you have positive pressure in your manifold, thus that vacuum line and chamber that previously was working against the spring tension, now is working with the spring tension to close the valve tightly and prevent boost leaks.

My logs showed some strange boost related behavior, so I took the valves off and inspected them. I worked thousands of valves, many of them air valves, on nuclear submarines so I have good working knowledge of standard procedures and best practices.

I rebuilt the valves, tested them, and out of curiousity, added the shim. The valves were still open at idle, held boost better up top and seemed to respond quicker. I think some stiction, if you will, was responsible for the piston hanging before opening or closing. A little extra spring tension helped overcome this, but it wasn't so much that the valve wouldn't release when called upon to do so.

Hope this helps. It's easy to try this out and see if it works better.

[007_e350]

Holy my idle shows -26 hgmm, is that a good thing?

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

Holy my idle shows -26 hgmm, is that a good thing?

Anyone knows ?

[C.Pop]

That's more than normal. Generally a higher vacuum indicates a healthy engine, but some people say it could be a sign of over-advanced timing. I'd check the gauge.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by C.Pop

That's more than normal. Generally a higher vacuum indicates a healthy engine, but some people say it could be a sign of over-advanced timing. I'd check the gauge.

I'll check idle timing, I'm currently cobb stg0 )

[C.Pop]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

I'll check idle timing, I'm currently cobb stg0 )

You're probably fine. What are you using to measure vacuum?

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by C.Pop

You're probably fine. What are you using to measure vacuum?

vaccum guage T'd into solenoid

[cstmx_ryder]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

Holy my idle shows -26 hgmm, is that a good thing?

Is this your cold-start idle or ??

At any rate, you should be fine. I'd pay to have a vacuum like that....lol. Right now, on cold-starts, my vacuum idles between -7 and -5 hgmm.....lol, FML.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder

Is this your cold-start idle or ??

At any rate, you should be fine. I'd pay to have a vacuum like that....lol. Right now, on cold-starts, my vacuum idles between -7 and -5 hgmm.....lol, FML.

before changing my front pressure solenoid it used to be at -19, check ur pressure converters

[cstmx_ryder]

Ya, I'm waiting for the boost solenoids and vacuum lines to get here tomorrow....In the mean time, I'm just talking shit to kill time....lol.

I just really hope that new boost solenoids and vacuum lines fixes my issue....*knock on wood*

[cstmx_ryder]

So over the weekend, I changed out the boost solenoids, vacuum lines (hot side and one on cold side). She boosts okay now, but there's still something else wrong....

I also reset the throttle adaption, lambda adaption, AFR adaption, battery adaption, knock adaption, octane adaption, VANOS adaption, VVT adaption, 6AT Trans adaption, and finally, ECU reset (necessary because I've done all the above resets.)

Obviously, after that, initially when I started the car, the RPM went bonkers, idling bounced up and down. After a few seconds, I started driving. This morning when I started the car, she was verrrryyy tame, and I mean, sounds stock-like. No loud exhaust notes, the RPM jumped to about 1000 and went back down to 700 immediately. This is not the norm for my car considering the mods. Usually, the idle on a cold-start will be very loud, and the rpm will start out at about 1200 and gradually simmer down to about 600, and obviously, the exhaust note will quiet down a little accordingly.

At a stop light on my way to work, the rpm suddenly jumped up to 900 and back down to 700 and it bounced up and down, sounded like the car was about to die. At one point, the rpm even dipped down to 500. So just this morning, the car's been idling at around 700 rpm, and she NEVER does that, it's ALWAYS been at exactly 600 rpm, maybe even a bit less at times.

Not sure what could be wrong at this point.......FML x 100.

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder

So over the weekend, I changed out the boost solenoids, vacuum lines (hot side and one on cold side). She boosts okay now, but there's still something else wrong....

I also reset the throttle adaption, lambda adaption, AFR adaption, battery adaption, knock adaption, octane adaption, VANOS adaption, VVT adaption, 6AT Trans adaption, and finally, ECU reset (necessary because I've done all the above resets.)

Obviously, after that, initially when I started the car, the RPM went bonkers, idling bounced up and down. After a few seconds, I started driving. This morning when I started the car, she was verrrryyy tame, and I mean, sounds stock-like. No loud exhaust notes, the RPM jumped to about 1000 and went back down to 700 immediately. This is not the norm for my car considering the mods. Usually, the idle on a cold-start will be very loud, and the rpm will start out at about 1200 and gradually simmer down to about 600, and obviously, the exhaust note will quiet down a little accordingly.

At a stop light on my way to work, the rpm suddenly jumped up to 900 and back down to 700 and it bounced up and down, sounded like the car was about to die. At one point, the rpm even dipped down to 500. So just this morning, the car's been idling at around 700 rpm, and she NEVER does that, it's ALWAYS been at exactly 600 rpm, maybe even a bit less at times.

Not sure what could be wrong at this point.......FML x 100.

Try pulling a new log and posting it up here.

[cstmx_ryder]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

Try pulling a new log and posting it up here.

Yes, logs are next, but that might take a bit because I don't have ANY free time on the weekdays. So I'll have to wait till this weekend to log....

[cstmx_ryder]

I just read the DME codes via Procede:

10927 = 2AAF Fuel Pump Plausibility

That was the only code.

Also found that my 'Fuel Correction' is at -7. Never paid attention to that, is that normal?

TIA

[Transport3r]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

vaccum guage T'd into solenoid

That's why, that's vacuum generated by the brake booster. You want to T into the intake manifold line that goes to the DV's.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by Transport3r

That's why, that's vacuum generated by the brake booster. You want to T into the intake manifold line that goes to the DV's.

my nbr's reading was at -19 at the same spot, he found a leak later on

[cstmx_ryder]

Well, after I replaced vacuum lines on the hot side, both boost solenoids. I also reset throttle, lambda, afr, battery, knock, octane, vanos, vvt, 6at trans adaptations, and after all that, I reset the ECU. All this was done through the Procede Command Center.

After that, I went into the 'user adjustable parameters' in Procede UI, and changed my 'start boost' to 60, turned 'auto-tuning' off on both maps, and changed 'boost control gain' back to 50 (was at 45).

With all that, so far she feels a lot better. Did a couple WOT pulls, and she was hitting 15.7 psi, which is right on board with the max boost set to 16 psi. The only thing is that she doesn't sound quite the same, meaning the exhaust note, she is now more tame, but has zero wastegate rattle, and throttle response is good......

Keeping my fingers crossed, I will need to datalog still to make sure all is good, then I'll be a happy camper.

[cstmx_ryder]

Well, I don't know why but the 'buzzing' noise is now back. It happens EXACTLY at 2800 rpms, and goes away immediately as the rpms climb.

Can a loose PCV connection (due to the OCC) cause the 'buzzing' sound I'm referring to?

I have BSH OCC, and some forum member said that's no good? Should I just take that off and run without a OCC for now?

TIA

[Jonnyweninger]

Originally Posted by C.Pop

Assuming that you've correctly traced out vacuum lines and replaced/checked/etc, then I'd bet you a grape soda it's your Forge diverter valves.

They need to be rebuilt from time to time. The piston can show signs of galling, which leads to both a vacuum/boost leak as well as sticking diverter valves. You won't make much boost at all when the valves are stuck open.

IMO pick up a rebuild kit, ($20ish from Forge) and carefully rebuild. During reassembly remember that less is more with respect to greasing o-rings/pistons. It's easy to put too much grease on things and screw yourself after a few hundred heat cycles. Since Forge tends to be super slow to respond or ship things (I waited over a month to get my rebuild kits), you can certainly take it apart and clean things or just inspect. I wonder if blow-by contamination plays a role in this.

FWIW I found I needed a shim on the yellow spring for correct operation.

Bumping.
Are they supposed to be open at idle. My car was making a horrible whining sound when i got into the throttle and throwing a 30ff. From the driver side engine bay. Turbos are brand spankin new and i can’t find a boost leak elsewhere or vacuum.