[Yozh]

Did you by chance unplug your differential pressure sensor? I Know with the downpipe you use only one temp sensor. Try plugging in all three. Just make sure the car is not running and ignition is not on.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Much more important is to stay away with the drill/reamer from the flap that closes the waste gate, which unfortunately I also did not manage to achieve .
After finishing the drilling I used a counter sink and then a small file to clean the edge of the hole to make sure the flap closes well.

It is impossible not to stay away from the flapper without relieving behind it to get it to open up further. But you had already done this before I could give you that tip

Good thing you didn't go bigger because that nick would be much worse.....

[gtp900]

Originally Posted by iaknown

It is impossible not to stay away from the flapper without relieving behind it to get it to open up further. But you had already done this before I could give you that tip

Good thing you didn't go bigger because that nick would be much worse.....

Relieving? Could you explain for us who have not done this yet?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Did you by chance unplug your differential pressure sensor? I Know with the downpipe you use only one temp sensor.

Yes, the differential pressure sensor, pre DPF temp, pre SCR temp, Nox sensor and urea metering unit are unplugged right now.

Originally Posted by Yozh

Try plugging in all three. Just make sure the car is not running and ignition is not on.

And what would be the expected result? No limp home message? What about the NOx sensor, urea metering unit and differential pressure sensor? Leave those unplugged?

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by gtp900

Relieving? Could you explain for us who have not done this yet?

I will add it to my thread with the actual mod being that this one is dealing with several different things......

See my 1st post in the wastegate options thread.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by iaknown

I will add it to my thread with the actual mod being that this one is dealing with several different things......

See my 1st post in the wastegate options thread.

Ah, yes. Looking closer at the second picture I can now see that you shaved off some material at the area the flap would hit when it is fully open. Yours now opens wider to allow more room for the drill/reamer. Thanks for pointing this out so other users don't make my mistake. I assume you used a dremel with a grinder attachment?

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Yes, the differential pressure sensor, pre DPF temp, pre SCR temp, Nox sensor and urea metering unit are unplugged right now.


And what would be the expected result? No limp home message? What about the NOx sensor, urea metering unit and differential pressure sensor? Leave those unplugged?

I can only speak from personal experience. But then I run a different setup than yours. I run a gutted DPF with DOC still in place. I have not unplugged anything except NOx sensors, both of them. And it does not throw a code. Urea will still spray until other things are done. I have places for all my temp sensors and they are plugged in. No biggie there. Urea nozzle the same way. And for me I just do not want it dangling. However, why unplug a differential pressure sensor? It achieves nothing, and you are playing with a complicated system where some maps may be gone but system may still look for a completed loop. So far it has been tuned by JRauto to be able to unplug the NOx, urea and EGR. I have not seen a conformation that diff pressure sensor can be unplugged. It is definitely mapped out but does not mean you can physically break that circuit. Or may require some additional fuse pulling. Please plug it back in, there is no sense in unplugging it.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Yozh

However, why unplug a differential pressure sensor? It achieves nothing, and you are playing with a complicated system where some maps may be gone but system may still look for a completed loop. So far it has been tuned by JRauto to be able to unplug the NOx, urea and EGR. I have not seen a conformation that diff pressure sensor can be unplugged. It is definitely mapped out but does not mean you can physically break that circuit. Or may require some additional fuse pulling. Please plug it back in, there is no sense in unplugging it.

Well you may have a point there. I just assumed that all sensors that are not being reused in the downpipe (i.e. O2, pre cat temp) may be removed. I figured it is easier for the software to detect a not connected sensor and deal with that situation then eventually figuring out that the signals received are implausible by either comparing it with the other sensors or being out of range of expected values.

On the other hand, another argument for reconnecting the sensors and tucking them up are the following:
1. The connectors are shielded against salt mist and thus against corrosion.
2. Open connectors are acting as attennas and thus open doors for electromagnetic fields (EMF) to enter the DDE which is potentially harmful to the components inside.

I'll ask Jarek when I get a chance. Until then I'll follow your advice. Thanks mate!

Edit:
I just realized that there might be a slight misunderstanding. I have not yet send in my DDE for tuning. This test was to figure out if it is posssible to install the downpipe first and then drive to Jarek in order to get the tune. So the DTCs I posted were expected. I'll also edit the post with the DTCs in order to clarify.

[DWR]

I'd keep the differential pressure sensor connected, and use the upstream side to measure after turbo pressure (atmospheric pressure to the downstream side). Then you will have something to monitor the effect of any additioanl mods you might want to do the exhaust system.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by DWR

I'd keep the differential pressure sensor connected, and use the upstream side to measure after turbo pressure (atmospheric pressure to the downstream side). Then you will have something to monitor the effect of any additioanl mods you might want to do the exhaust system.

That sounds like an excellent idea. However, the downpipe doesn't provide a bung for the pressure sensor, so unless I find someone who can weld stainless steel your suggestion won't be an option for me. I'll reconnect the sensor though.

[DWR]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

That sounds like an excellent idea. However, the downpipe doesn't provide a bung for the pressure sensor, so unless I find someone who can weld stainless steel your suggestion won't be an option for me. I'll reconnect the sensor though.

There are other options like the one in this image. I guess this is one of the advantages of a gutted DPF/DOC.

[2deerwhistlers]

The differential pressure tubes are not a good idea on the downpipe or the dpf.. especially with the minimal knowledge you'd gain by measuring exhaust pressure.. Enough said
P.s. That band clamp with the o2 sensor bung looks like something a teenager would put on a mid 90s honda

[BB_cuda]

The artist is not wanting you to muck up his craft

[DWR]

Originally Posted by 2deerwhistlers

The differential pressure tubes are not a good idea on the downpipe or the dpf.. especially with the minimal knowledge you'd gain by measuring exhaust pressure.. Enough said

There are a few folks with some horsepressure in these forums who have been quite interested in measuring the drive pressure across the turbos.

[DWR]

Originally Posted by 2deerwhistlers

P.s. That band clamp with the o2 sensor bung looks like something a teenager would put on a mid 90s honda

Your pipes are works of beauty, completely understand your point of view.

[Mik325tds]

I wasn't going to use a clamp like that. Would be agains my astetic taste as well. And since I have not much use for the exhaust pressure info, the differentail pressure sensor is going back into the car like this:

[Mik325tds]

One more thing to do before sending the DDE to Jarek: Flushing the Urea tank. I first drained the remaining urea from the drain ports as described in the attached document.
The picture shows draining the passive tank.

[Mik325tds]

I then refilled both tanks with destilled water and used EDIABAS to activate the pump that pressurizes the hose to the metering unit. In order to do so, the job start_scr_motortest1 has to be run and stopped first, then put in 50;50 (dosis, PWM duty cycle) in the Arguments field and start_scr_motortest2. I let it run for a minute or so until it stopped by itself. This way there's no remaining urea in the hose or system that can crystallize and maybe clog the system for future use.

[BB_cuda]

Yozh, per post #61, this is what i did to drain. I used a manual vacuum pump thing for siphoning fuel but it didn't fit. I only got about 1.5 gallons to come out. I'm unsure if all will come out with this method. I should have had about 69% of full system since i had only driven 4000 miles and that would have left about 9000 of the normal 13000 mile range. 9/13=69%. Perhaps I got shorted on my last DEF topoff. No matter, as its getting removed in the near future. I need to get access to a lift to remove exhaust.

Mik325, that was a great idea to purge the line of urea and replace with water. Be careful for cool weather though. Urea freezes at 19F and of course water at 32F. You may want to redrain tanks to get water out if it is real cold where you are.

How much urea did you collect in your draining?

EDIT: Something just occurred to me. Since my SCR wasn't turned off during 3500 miles of using Ecotune programming and EGR was blocked, I may have been spraying at a higher rate. If car were without mods, both EGR and SCR function to reduce NOx. With EGR blocked, SCR was on its own to reduce NOx for 4000 miles. This is a hypothesis of mine, no data to back it up. I do not know to what level SCR was "closed loop" trying to control NOx running the Ecotune.

Does anyone out there running EGR blocked notice a higher rate of refilling urea?

[Yozh]

My 2.5ga were used up in 5400mi with Ecotune. If this will help you. EGR was blocked too.

[BB_cuda]

If I extrapolate out Yozh's numbers to 13,000 miles. (13,000/5400)*2.5=6.01 gallons. That sounds about right. So, the dealer blew off putting DEF in my car or there is still a bunch in there I can't drain out.

[Mik325tds]

I was able to get about 2 gallons in each tank after draining even though I should have been able to get about 3 gallons into the passive tank. All 4 gallons came back out through the drain ports.
I'm planning to deinstall the tanks to make some room for natural gas tanks if possible. BB_cuda, do you have some documentation on how to uninstall the tanks?