[JuiceQuadre]

Hey guys, can anyone who knows please tell me how to proceed if i want to test egr on the EU model by unpluging it?

It is controlled via pressure converter on our model. Do i simply pull the electric plug on the pressure converter? Does then the egr stay closed?

[Yozh]

What exactly you want to test. The mechanical or electrical of the EGR or the vacuum/pressure converter side.

Edit: no electricalnon the EGR in EU.

[daenosx]

So quick question...I have a US Model 2011 335d, all emissions still intact SCR, DPF, and EGR. If I can get this to work, and install a block off plate, (I think I read this is still needed with this electrical delete also) will I still be good with my other emission components (DPF, and SCR) not being deleted yet, or will I cause more damage to something else? I know this has been covered I just wanted a clear cut answer, so sorry Im going a bit of the lazy route. Thanks in advance.

The root problem is that my EGR cooler has gone bad as expected, so I wanted to maybe do this as a work around for a couple months until I can get all the stuff deleted, but I just want a band aid solution for now...if anyone mightr have some other recommendations I will gladly accept input

[gavronm]

Originally Posted by daenosx

So quick question...I have a US Model 2011 335d, all emissions still intact SCR, DPF, and EGR. If I can get this to work, and install a block off plate, (I think I read this is still needed with this electrical delete also) will I still be good with my other emission components (DPF, and SCR) not being deleted yet, or will I cause more damage to something else? I know this has been covered I just wanted a clear cut answer, so sorry Im going a bit of the lazy route. Thanks in advance.

The root problem is that my EGR cooler has gone bad as expected, so I wanted to maybe do this as a work around for a couple months until I can get all the stuff deleted, but I just want a band aid solution for now...if anyone mightr have some other recommendations I will gladly accept input

You should be fine running an EGR block and all other emissions in tact. It's up to you if you want to add the physical block off plate for a little added peace of mind, but I'm sure there are many who will tell you its not necessary.

The only caveat to all of this is if you only take very short trips (less than 5 minutes or so). If that's the case there is a possibility that blocking the EGR will prevent the exhaust temps from getting hot enough to complete a full regeneration , which could lead to DPF clogging.

I've been running a physical block with all other emissions in tact for almost 2 years now and have never had an issue. Regens happen regularly and are always successful. I also drive 35 minutes both ways to/from work, so the car has plenty of time to complete its regens.

Edit - Should go without saying but you will have a check engine light for as long as the block is in place without a tune.

[daenosx]

Originally Posted by gavronm

You should be fine running an EGR block and all other emissions in tact. It's up to you if you want to add the physical block off plate for a little added peace of mind, but I'm sure there are many who will tell you its not necessary.

The only caveat to all of this is if you only take very short trips (less than 5 minutes or so). If that's the case there is a possibility that blocking the EGR will prevent the exhaust temps from getting hot enough to complete a full regeneration , which could lead to DPF clogging.

I've been running a physical block with all other emissions in tact for almost 2 years now and have never had an issue. Regens happen regularly and are always successful. I also drive 35 minutes both ways to/from work, so the car has plenty of time to complete its regens.

Edit - Should go without saying but you will have a check engine light for as long as the block is in place without a tune.

Thanks for the reply gavronm. Yeah, I grab highway for about the same as you daily as well. SO it sounds like the way for me to go for the time being. Really appreciate the feedback....since Ive heard both sides of the physical block being OK and not being OK been scared to commit, but I think its a good band aid for now anyway. Also, aware of the check engine light without the tune, since I already have one on for the EGR cooler it'll be like nothing happened...lol. Thanks again!

[Yozh]

What’s wrong with the EGR cooler. Physical block would be very much suggested.

[JT8Diesel]

Did this today. Will check fuel economy on my next drive to work (most consistent driving I do).

Normally around halfway there I see Distance to Empty + Traveled = 1060 km +/-

My car had a weird "transition" piece from the wire loom to the connector. Had to remove that first.

[chriscpmtmp]

When I disconnected the wire, I get a P0405 code. That is the only one with my cheap iOS app - OBD fusion. . Does that sound right?

When I reconnected the wire, I still get the code. I can clear it, and get one start, but it comes right back. Does that mean something is messed up?

[gremlyng]

Not trying to sound preachy or snobby, but is it really the done thing to be inserting paper-clips in to remove cables and re-seating them into a position they were never designed to go, just to try side step the EGR? You still get the fault code on the dash - So is it really worth it, to my thinking unless you've just hit financial hard times why would you do such a thing?

I would imagine if financial circumstances were to be an issue the BMW would be gone in favour of a cheap Korean family run about?

If the EGR is a problem why not just get it mapped out? Also don't understand the reasoning behind Blanking the EGR off when a re-map will bypass it anyway with no need for any sort of blanking plate.

Can I also throw it out there (because I don't know), if you delete the EGR surely there is far more liklyhood of un-spent fuel being passing through the DPF which will reduce it's life drastically? Not sure how that sits with the CAT either - My mind is telling me short term you'll gain long term you'll pay!

On another note because others have mentioned it - after a certain point in time (I think I read 2009) BMW removed the swirl flaps from the N47 engine (not be confused with the M47 engine) Having read that I then find a post by someone who says YES the N47 does have swirl flaps they are just slightly diffeent in design and are elctronically operated! So much grey area the whole thing drives me to distraction! :-)

[ninja_zx11]

Originally Posted by gremlyng

Can I also throw it out there (because I don't know), if you delete the EGR surely there is far more liklyhood of un-spent fuel being passing through the DPF which will reduce it's life drastically? Not sure how that sits with the CAT either - My mind is telling me short term you'll gain long term you'll pay!

I don't believe that any un-spent fuel will start passing through the DPF by doing this mod.In fact less soot will be accumulated in the DPF and more Kms/miles between the regenerations.
EGR is good for the emissions but not for the engine.

[zxwreg]

I am having three codes using Carly:

4CAE: Low-pressure exhaust gas recirculation actuator position sensor signal circuit or short to ground
40D4: EGR actuator position control valve too far open/negative deviation
3EED: unknown failure (said by Carly)

Anyone has the same issue?

More info: after cleaning codes, check immediately again, only 4CAE shows up. after driving for 10 miles 40D4 shows up, after 160 miles, 3EED shows up.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by zxwreg

I am having three codes using Carly:

4CAE: Low-pressure exhaust gas recirculation actuator position sensor signal circuit or short to ground
40D4: EGR actuator position control valve too far open/negative deviation
3EED: unknown failure (said by Carly)

Anyone has the same issue?

More info: after cleaning codes, check immediately again, only 4CAE shows up. after driving for 10 miles 40D4 shows up, after 160 miles, 3EED shows up.

Did you pull the black wire out of the connector?

[zxwreg]

Originally Posted by RL18

Did you pull the black wire out of the connector?

If you mean the wire pushed out by the paper clip, yes! It was pushed out and wrapped by electric tape.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by zxwreg

If you mean the wire pushed out by the paper clip, yes! It was pushed out and wrapped by electric tape.

Hm that's weird... I'm not saying you did it wrong but I did the exact same thing mine works fine... I'd just double check

[335_The D]

Question for any of the 335D owners. I recently purchased a 2011 BMW 335d. Pushed it and got them to do the CBU cleaning at the dealer including the heads. Now, my question is. Should I purchase the ext warranty for almost 5k or do the deletes for around the same amount? Most problems arise from the CBU but is it a better choice to do warranty to cover the turbos etc?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by 335_The D

Question for any of the 335D owners. I recently purchased a 2011 BMW 335d. Pushed it and got them to do the CBU cleaning at the dealer including the heads. Now, my question is. Should I purchase the ext warranty for almost 5k or do the deletes for around the same amount? Most problems arise from the CBU but is it a better choice to do warranty to cover the turbos etc?

Deletes. It can all be done for less than $5k.

[smass]

I did the mod last week and am seeing around a 1.5 mpg increase (22 to 23.7). Has anyone with an E70 also disconnected the low pressure EGR to see if that changes anything? I am most concerned with consistent power delivery as my E70 gets a little jerky in stop and go traffic when boost comes on. Removing the HP EGR has made thing smoother.



thanks

[remlemasi]

I've had the electrical delete for a while now and just recently decided to remove the entire EGR cooler.

I used coolant line caps and exhaust plate from Matt.

Cut the vacuum line going to the cooler and plugged it with a screw. The sensor connector is just left hanging.

EGR valve is still intact and covered with another plate even though the electrical delete should keep it closed.

I'm now receiving the following codes:

4CAE
485C
4D87

The car runs and feels just just but want to confirm that these are normal and expected codes without a tune. Can you guys help?

TIA!

[Cornyulio]

New here and trying to follow along. There seems to be multiple options with this EGR issue:

1. Purchase an EGR delete kit for about $120 and get tune $700.
2. Use the block plates.
3. Use this paperclip method.

All 3 options without the tune results in CEL which I can live with. But which option or combination of options is best? I was thinking getting the EGR delete kit (race pipe) and using the paperclip method. Or possibly getting blocking plates and paperclip method. Or is just the paperclip method going to result in the same thing whether I get the delete kit or blocking plates? Thanks!

[Yozh]

Depends what are you trying to achieve.

[Cornyulio]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Depends what are you trying to achieve.

Can you clarify which results will occur with each option? (No tone implied, I just don't know what the results would be with each option or permutation of options). My goal would be to prevent the exhaust gases from going back into the motor and preventing soot build up. Can this be done with just the paperclip mod or would a physical barrier be needed? Thanks!

[335stoner]

-the best method is to use a race pipe with the EGR delete: this removes both the EGR valve and the EGR cooler completely

-the next best method would be the block plates: that will completely block the flow of the exhaust gas.

-last would be the paper clip method: this disables the EGR valve and prevents flow into the intake. is it 100% sealed ?? i would think at lest 95%

if you install a race pipe you will need to leave the EGR attached.. this is what i did for a buddy to remove the entire valve.. i have a big band saw at work and i gave it a chop! now he just has the motor off to the side and not look ghetto.