[Mik325tds]

A couple of more pictures with the whole setup. It turns out, with a little practice you don't need a third hand to hold the vacuum adapters. It proved to be even beneficial to slightly move them in order to get the wands to the right spot.
I still liked the way of adjusting air/media mixture on the media tank instead of using the valve at the wand. With all valves fully open it seemed like I didn't have enough air throughput to achieve good cleaning.

The blue tarp is probably an overkill. I was afraid that I would blast through a thin plastic if I should ever slip out of the vacuum adapters. While that didn't happen, I still have some walnut media all over the engine. So be sure to tape off the ports you aren't working on.

[Mik325tds]

Here is a video showing the dirty tangential intake valve opening and closing during advancing of the engine with the remote starter switch:

And a video showing the inspection of the tangential port after cleaning. Note, this is the easy port to inspect, the top port is much harder to get a good view of the valve:

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by lee4him

***As you do this, be careful, the walnut shells will burn through plastic. So when cleaning the top ports, make sure you have your wands in the head far enough. you don't want to allow the media to clean the plastic valve cover.

Can't emphasize this enough: Avoid pulling out the wands beyond the markings on the wands for the top port. The media will eat away the plastic of the valve cover very fast. This is how it looks like when you don't pay attention for a second.:

The picture doesn't really show the extend of damage, but the groove is at least a millimeter deep.
I believe this is the reason why BMW changed the cleaning proceedure to removing the valve cover in the new SIB 11 03 14. However, I think the additional work is not worth it.

[Mik325tds]

So here's what I did to get the carbon off the plastic part of the top port:

Before starting the blasting process I scraped away the carbon with a plastic tool. In between blasting sessions I then wiped the port with rubbing alcohol to get the remaining carbon off.

Here's how much I collected just from the top ports:
The photo doesn't show the depth of the glass very well. It must have been about 3-4 eating spoons full.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

150.000km
I have no CBU at all. Neither in the EGR valve nor in the intake manifold nor in the ports.
Okay, some CBU in the intake manifold, but as thin as paper. The ports nevertheless are shiny like a golden watch.

Why?

Is it the lack of urea? The whole thing seems to be a US problem as overseas urea system aint featured with the diesel engines

[Mik325tds]

I send my intake manifold to a nearby cleaning facility for utrasonic cleaning. The charge cost was $150. As instructed in the SIB, I removed all seals, fasteners, swirl flap actuator and swirl flaps. But I did send in the swirl flaps with the intake for ultrasonic cleaning.
After the first cleaning session, all oily residue was gone but still some carbon left in the intake. The cleaning facility took it back and soaked it overnight in a cleaning solution and then hit it again with ultrasound. This time it came back squeeking clean:

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by whiteblue

150.000km
I have no CBU at all. Neither in the EGR valve nor in the intake manifold nor in the ports.
Okay, some CBU in the intake manifold, but as thin as paper. The ports nevertheless are shiny like a golden watch.

Why?

Is it the lack of urea? The whole thing seems to be a US problem as overseas urea system aint featured with the diesel engines

Yes, this problem seems to be prone to the US diesels. But the thinking here is that it's because of the higher EGR ratios to achieve the emission standards.
In my opinion, a second reason is that we can't drive extended times past 80 mph in order to get some good hot air flow through the intake. I miss the Autobahn....

[kbsilver]

Urea is way downstream of the engine and has nothing to do with CBU. It's the heavy EGR which is one of the methods used (Urea is the second) to meet latest NOx emissions requirements.

Not being able to drive over 100km/hr doesn't help.

[Mik325tds]

After everything is said and done here's a little roundup of the cost and time involved:
Parts:
Special tools (you can rent these from me if you like):
Vacuum Adapter 8129 2356 967 $61.80
Vacuum Adapter 8129 2356 966 $61.80
Blasting Wand 8129 2356 970 $25.07
Blasting Wand 8129 2356 969 $25.07
Blasting Wand 8129 2356 968 $25.07

Seals (you may choose to reuse those ):
Gasket, intake, 6x 11 61 7 790 198 6x $5.25
Gasket, intake, 6x 11 61 2 246 945 6x $4.00
Gasket, EGR valve to intake 11 61 2 245 439 $2.50
Grommet, pressure sensor 13 62 7 792 261 $6.25
O-ring, throttle to EGR valve 13 54 7 792 098 $4.75

Harbor Freight:
Crushed walnut media, fine grid Item #92155, $24.99
Remote Starter switch Item #35448, $10.99
20lbs pressurized blaster, item#68994, $57.99
50lbs Abrasive Soda medium, Item #65929, $39.99

Ultrasonic Cleaning of intake manifold (you may choose to use Adam's pressure washer method, which is just as fine): $140

Sum: $566.64 (including MI taxes).

Time:
- about 2 hours each for intake removal and assembly
- about 12 hours for cleaning the intakes (but that's me being overly cautious)

Results:
Subjectively more punch and response on the throttle. Objectively about 10% increase in MPGs.

I could swear that every time I don't look my multifunction display shows a big "THANK you" in glowing amber letters. But everytime I do look, it just displays a proud 36.7 mpg, which - to me - is just the same .
Last but not least: Many thanks to Lee4him for his help and advice!
Merry Christmas, everyone!

[AustinMsport]

Well done

I'll def be bookmarking this for a DIY when my CPO runs out.

[Timujin]

This is good sheet.

[Mik325tds]

Thanks guys.
One more thing: It's advisable to reset the adaptions for MAF and mean volume of the injectors. My engine had a slight shiver at idle after the CBU cleaning which is now gone since I cleared those adaptions.

Update:
I learned something new about the adaptation reset today. A friend visited me after cleaning the CBU and had a very rough engine idle. He had the following faults set:
0x004596 4596 Smooth running controller, cylinder 3
0x00459C 459C Smooth running controller, cylinder 1
0x004AD5 DDE: Zero-quantity adaptation, injector, cylinder 1
0x004AF6 DDE: Zero-quantity adaptation, injector, cylinder 3
0x004CE3 DDE: Misfire detection, cylinder 3

We reset all adaptations with ISTA but it didn't really help much, we could still feel the engine shaking in the drivers seat. It wasn't until I reset the correction values of the injectors that the engine finally ran smooth again. It was a night and day difference. Below is the job in ISTA which really should be part of the Adaptation chapter but is hidden further down.

[montr]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Thanks guys.
One more thing: It's advisable to reset the adaptions for MAF and mean volume of the injectors. My engine had a slight shiver at idle after the CBU cleaning which is now gone since I cleared those adaptions.

How did you reset the adaptation?
Thanks

[Mik325tds]

You'll need some BMW specific diagnostic software for this. I used Rheingold but BMWhat would probably do it, too.

[DnA Diesel]

Excellent write ups! Nice work. Thanks guys!

[Smonkey09]

Great write up. Thanks for posting. I was planning to follow the instructions in the service bulletin and remove the valve cover, but decided to try to clean the swirl ports with the valve cover on after reading your post.

As I wait for my walnut blasting kit to arrive, I decided to do a dry-run and try to remove the intake manifold. I got stuck when attempting to remove the electrical connector from the EGR valve. It has a white switch lock. I've pushed the switch one way and tried to pull / pry the connection apart. I pushed the switch the other way and tried again. Rinse and repeat until I was afraid I would get frustrated and break it.

Am I missing anything obvious? I attached a picture of the connector. I feel silly being stuck by a stupid electrical connector, but I'd rather be careful than break it. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Smonkey09

. I got stuck when attempting to remove the electrical connector from the EGR valve. It has a white switch lock. I've pushed the switch one way and tried to pull / pry the connection apart. I pushed the switch the other way and tried again. Rinse and repeat until I was afraid I would get frustrated and break it.

Am I missing anything obvious? I attached a picture of the connector. I feel silly being stuck by a stupid electrical connector, but I'd rather be careful than break it. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Ah, yes. Got stuck there for a little while, too. You have to pull out and remove the white lock completely before you can depress the tabs just below it and pull off the connector.

[Smonkey09]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Ah, yes. Got stuck there for a little while, too. You have to pull out and remove the white lock completely before you can depress the tabs just below it and pull off the connector.

Aha! That is not intuitive. I would have certainly broken it left to my own devices. Thanks!

[p27rpy]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I send my intake manifold to a nearby cleaning facility for utrasonic cleaning. The charge cost was $150. As instructed in the SIB, I removed all seals, fasteners, swirl flap actuator and swirl flaps. But I did send in the swirl flaps with the intake for ultrasonic cleaning.
After the first cleaning session, all oily residue was gone but still some carbon left in the intake. The cleaning facility took it back and soaked it overnight in a cleaning solution and then hit it again with ultrasound. This time it came back squeeking clean:

Trying to find a local place in Houston, Texas like this. Any tips on what I should search for? This thread has been invaluable, thanks for everyone's contributions!

[Smonkey09]

Originally Posted by p27rpy

Trying to find a local place in Houston, Texas like this. Any tips on what I should search for? This thread has been invaluable, thanks for everyone's contributions!

I had trouble as well in Chicago area. Your best bet is to look up "engine rebuilding Huston". Then call them and ask them if they do ultrasonic cleaning or hot tank using mild parts cleaner.

Or, you could also call your local BMW dealer and ask them where they send their intakes when they walnut blast diesels, given that most do not have hot tanks / ultrasonic cleaners and need to send them out for cleaning per the service bulletin.

[Mik325tds]

I searched for (engine, parts, cleaning, ultrasonic) in various combinations. One place came up that looked like they do medical parts cleaning with sterilization in a clean room. They responded to the RFQ with $150, "Sure we do that all the time for other customers as well". I found that quite surprising. Good luck!

[p27rpy]

Originally Posted by Smonkey09

I had trouble as well in Chicago area. Your best bet is to look up "engine rebuilding Huston". Then call them and ask them if they do ultrasonic cleaning or hot tank using mild parts cleaner.

Or, you could also call your local BMW dealer and ask them where they send their intakes when they walnut blast diesels, given that most do not have hot tanks / ultrasonic cleaners and need to send them out for cleaning per the service bulletin.

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I searched for (engine, parts, cleaning, ultrasonic) in various combinations. One place came up that looked like they do medical parts cleaning with sterilization in a clean room. They responded to the RFQ with $150, "Sure we do that all the time for other customers as well". I found that quite surprising. Good luck!

Nice, thanks for the tips!