[rob_h]

Originally Posted by nick380

plugged them back into the two sockets that were for the automatic trans. The have the same color as the plugs themselves. All color coded.

I think I get it... you had disconnected them with the intention of removing the harness, but discovered problems so you reconnected them?

[nick380]

Originally Posted by rob_h

I think I get it... you had disconnected them with the intention of removing the harness, but discovered problems so you reconnected them?

Yes just those two, I didn't need the others plugged in. Turned out a ground was associated with one of those connection to the DSC module.

[rob_h]

Thanks!

[rob_h]

Update.... Thank you again for the help. I've made my own clutch switch module harness and verified that it works. The car cranks and will fire (no fuel tank now so I tested with starter fluid) with the clutch depressed, but no joy with the clutch out. Given all I removed from the wire harness, I'm relieved that it will crank and start!

[rominun]

Hey man, just got around to doing this and you said you could take the drives shafts apart and swap the parts on it. I did that and the spline for the auto is smaller than the spline for the manual one.

[rominun]

May I add that you need to close the loop on this CANBUS connector if you removed the entire automatic transmission harness and put the manual one in. Friend who coded the car didn't see the DSC module on INPA and needed 2 pairs of wires to be connected. I just cut the automatic harness and used the connector so if I ever need to remove it I can.

[rominun]

Originally Posted by rominun

Hey man, just got around to doing this and you said you could take the drives shafts apart and swap the parts on it. I did that and the spline for the auto is smaller than the spline for the manual one.

Ended up using the automatic transmission Driveshaft.

[nick380]

Good find. Sorry I've been mia

[rominun]

Originally Posted by nick380

Good find. Sorry I've been mia

One last thing and my swap should be successfully complete. Been driving around and my brake lights seem to be always on. What pin on the transmission needs to be wired to pin 19 on the nfrm?

[nick380]

Brake lights always on. Look at the brake light switch under brake pedal. There is an adjustment for it. As to the pin 19 that should be for the reverse light switch on the trans I believe.

[Maniac0908]

So did you get a GS6-53BZ or the DZ? Also if i have an auto xi and want to go 6mt rear could i get the driveshaft stuff needed, remove old driveshaft and transfer case, code transfer case out, install 6mt and rwd driveshaft and it mount up to my xi rear pumpkin? Or woild i need a rwd pumpkin and other stuff?

I also found a GS6S53BZ. Would this would as well? Looks the same but uses lt2

[cedchung]

Did you have to flash DME and DSC modules?

They are reporting no communication with EGS.

[rich_mane]

^If you coded it properly the DME and DSC don't look for the EGS which is the auto trans computer. Probably will need to be recoded if you haven't done it already.

I'm in the process of this swap right now and am just waiting on my driveshaft... I left the entire auto harness where it was and just tucked and ziptied the trans connector away as to avoid any grounding issues. I'm doing it on an N55 and using a 2009 N54 manual trans. I was able to start the car up without coding anything yet so that's a good sign to me hoping the driveshaft comes tomorrow.

[ferocity02]

Can anyone clarify the wiring part of this swap? What pins on what connects needed to be connected to what?

[rob_h]

What happens if I don't re-code the car? I've gotten the transmission installed, running, and racing but struggled to get the coding software running and realized I never got it done. What symptoms have people seen without re-coding the car as a manual from an auto?

[sloweste9x]

Does anyone know how different the parts needed would be for an XI? I have an E61 535XI wagon and am pursing a 6MT swap.

[stuta]

Originally Posted by rob_h

Update.... Thank you again for the help. I've made my own clutch switch module harness and verified that it works. The car cranks and will fire (no fuel tank now so I tested with starter fluid) with the clutch depressed, but no joy with the clutch out. Given all I removed from the wire harness, I'm relieved that it will crank and start!

hi rob..
i know its been ages since anybody mentioned anything with regard to e90 tranny swaps but am currently busy with mine on a 330d.

i wanted to ask how exactly you made your clutch switch module harness?
you also mentioned that your car fired up without having coded it?

did you encounter any symptoms of not having coded? if so, what are the consequences?

i need to know what wires i need to bridge and so on.

thank you in advance

[rob_h]

Hi, I don't recall the exact wiring, but I had a scrap harness out of an E46 so I found the right connector to work with the clutch switch and wired it in based on instructions I found here and looking at the Bentley manual.

This site is a great help in looking up the wiring harness, but it takes some time to figure out. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-128i-cou/

As far as coding, yes it ran without coding. Both feet in (clutch and brake) to start the car and it idled a bit high. Once I got the coding done, the idle dropped and the car will start with just the clutch depressed.

I'm working on other coding issues that may or may not be related to the auto to manual conversion: Throttle delay after going off throttle and back on (heel toe shifting or downshifting rev matching).

Rob

Originally Posted by stuta

hi rob..
i know its been ages since anybody mentioned anything with regard to e90 tranny swaps but am currently busy with mine on a 330d.

i wanted to ask how exactly you made your clutch switch module harness?
you also mentioned that your car fired up without having coded it?

did you encounter any symptoms of not having coded? if so, what are the consequences?

i need to know what wires i need to bridge and so on.

thank you in advance

[stuta]

Originally Posted by rob_h

Hi, I don't recall the exact wiring, but I had a scrap harness out of an E46 so I found the right connector to work with the clutch switch and wired it in based on instructions I found here and looking at the Bentley manual.

This site is a great help in looking up the wiring harness, but it takes some time to figure out. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-128i-cou/

As far as coding, yes it ran without coding. Both feet in (clutch and brake) to start the car and it idled a bit high. Once I got the coding done, the idle dropped and the car will start with just the clutch depressed.

I'm working on other coding issues that may or may not be related to the auto to manual conversion: Throttle delay after going off throttle and back on (heel toe shifting or downshifting rev matching).

Rob

Thanks for the info.
I have all the necessary parts and will be trying out the wiring tomorrow or so.
As for coding....if the car starts, then I'm done!

Am not sure i will be able to do coding this side of earth.

[RS DAVE]

If you don't code it, you will have a dash with more lights on it than a christmas tree. i did a 335i in 2015 and i have also done a 335d both cars needed coding to work properly, because the car still thinks its an auto. when you turn your ignition on all the modules report back to the DME or DDE, so it looks for the auto box, when it hasn't been coded and it doesn't see it, it wont start. the car needs to be told it's a manual. also the cooling fan will run flat out because the DME doesn't get a signal from the auto box it thinks the box is over heating, there is a small trigger wire that runs to the fan with the 2 large wires, brake into it and put a stat switch in the top hose to trigger the fan on and of or wire in an over ride switch on the dash.

[stuta]

Hi Dave

I got my car to start after having done the wiring.
I am not really concerned about coding for now...maybe at a later stage.

The fan does run non stop because it thinks the transmission is overheating yes.
I know the wires going to the fan yes...my apologies but i dont really understand what i need to do here...
Do i cut the small wire and tuck it away?

Also, i have a manual lockset of a 330d which i will install today and see what happens

[stuta]

Originally Posted by RS DAVE

If you don't code it, you will have a dash with more lights on it than a christmas tree. i did a 335i in 2015 and i have also done a 335d both cars needed coding to work properly, because the car still thinks its an auto. when you turn your ignition on all the modules report back to the DME or DDE, so it looks for the auto box, when it hasn't been coded and it doesn't see it, it wont start. the car needs to be told it's a manual. also the cooling fan will run flat out because the DME doesn't get a signal from the auto box it thinks the box is over heating, there is a small trigger wire that runs to the fan with the 2 large wires, brake into it and put a stat switch in the top hose to trigger the fan on and of or wire in an over ride switch on the dash.

dave...
do u by any chance know the length of the bmw e90 330d m57 2007 model manual prop shaft as compared to the automatic prop shaft