[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

very valid point, but I believe I've taken care of those. Plugs done 12K ago, replaced VANOS solenoid 5k ago, walnut blasting done at 70k (at 102k now, will do another this year), retrofitted oil cooler, all fluids done around 10K.

I have DCI and JB4, seems to be pulling, don't know how else to test the car, other than loadingbit up and going WOT from time to time I want to go FBO, because if I am upgrading parts, might as well get some power, mind you NOT the turbos (no smoking or whining or rattling yet). So I wanted to get an idea what number people get to w/o getting e85 or meth these days. Looks like people get significantly more for the same mods than they did say 4 years ago.

FBO should get you around 400 wheel. All depends on teh boost you crank.

Mike

[ritzzzzzwik]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

FBO should get you around 400 wheel. All depends on teh boost you crank.

Mike

Thanks Mike!

Another Q- What brake upgrade would be best suited? I might do this before adding power. I'd like to maintain the current feel of the stock setup, but would like to minimize fade, and stopping distance if possible; all this w/o costing an arm and a leg :P

I just want to make sure I can stop as quickly I accelerate. That said I am not looking to get a BBK, since that may be overkill.

[willzim]

Well the good news is when you're ready to start modding again you'll have a super easy time installing LSD in a 2007. It is one of the reasons why I searched for so long to find the car I finally bought. The diff is bolted on instead of welded like in the 08+ cars.

[tylerdurdon]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Before you start chasing higher HP numbers, my vote goes to starting with general maintenance first.. Check your Plugs, Coils, Injectors, Intake Valves, and for any leaks because once you add on HP you're going to find your engines weak points right away.. Just my .02

I agree.

I thought this article wasn't bad once you get there. It gives you an idea of where you can go and how much things can cost.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by tylerdurdon

I agree.

I thought this article wasn't bad once you get there. It gives you an idea of where you can go and how much things can cost.

Link is not working.
I recommend starting by plugs only at first and then a tune + charge pipe.
If you start getting misfires, check your coils and injectors. If you are not getting any misfires there is no need to spend money on maintenance at this point

[tylerdurdon]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Link is not working.

Looks like mod*bargains when combined gets commented out. I guess that site was banned or something.

[335idle]

LSD. Probably the best upgrade.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

Thanks Mike!

Another Q- What brake upgrade would be best suited? I might do this before adding power. I'd like to maintain the current feel of the stock setup, but would like to minimize fade, and stopping distance if possible; all this w/o costing an arm and a leg :P

I just want to make sure I can stop as quickly I accelerate. That said I am not looking to get a BBK, since that may be overkill.

Stop Tech with Hawk 5.0 Pads is a our most popular seller. For improved pedal feel consider a stainless steel brake line upgrade kit, Stop Tech or ER.

[nick380]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Stop Tech with Hawk 5.0 Pads is a our most popular seller. For improved pedal feel consider a stainless steel brake line upgrade kit, Stop Tech or ER.

This and I would check out Akebono Euro Spec Carbon Ceramic brake pads. They are godly. You'll notice way less brake dust first off on your rims, and you'll notice it's overall better feeling brakes, but with reduced initial bite that the oem pads had. Stock rotors are fine, but I'd recommend zimmerman rotors crossdrilled or slotted if you are tracking more than not (lots of arguments on which is best, most say they are mainly for looks, others say drilled are better for wet conditions and slotted for brake dust).

[dreyo27]

LSD end of story

[ritzzzzzwik]

Originally Posted by dreyo27

LSD end of story

Ahahaha yes....but that may be the last piece, the master stroke!

BTW I wonder how is it that I have been able to lay double black lines w/o a lsd? This may be a completely noob question, but this is my first car w/o a lsd, and yes I turn traction control completely off. I certainly feels like it does not have a lsd, especially when its a little slippery.

[Grand_hustle17]

Charge pipe
JB4
Downpipe
FMIC
Honestly i have dci and just going to go back to stock... No difference.. If you are a DIY'er then Inlets after

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by nick380

This and I would check out Akebono Euro Spec Carbon Ceramic brake pads. They are godly. You'll notice way less brake dust first off on your rims, and you'll notice it's overall better feeling brakes, but with reduced initial bite that the oem pads had. Stock rotors are fine, but I'd recommend zimmerman rotors crossdrilled or slotted if you are tracking more than not (lots of arguments on which is best, most say they are mainly for looks, others say drilled are better for wet conditions and slotted for brake dust).

Drilled and slots are not for rain or dust. They are a release for built up gases during braking. Thinking of your pad hydroplaning like a bald tire in the rain vs one with tread that has grooves to let the gases escape. Slots are more effective and drilled can Crack more easily, but drilled are aestheticallypleasing. I have drilled slotted because I like the looks but if I was tracking on a regular basis I'd have slotted only.

[Fundguy1]

Only M cars come with LSD now. Not even optional. I have one but until you reach 400+ hp it's not really a big deal.

[Fundguy1]

My progression was juice box
FBO
Brakes
Coil overs
Additional suspension (M3 control arms, subframe bushings, etc )
LSD
Turbos and fuel system

You really want to build up the chassis after FBO so you can safely and effectively handle the additional power
Non run flat tires and maybe wheels are always first.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

Ahahaha yes....but that may be the last piece, the master stroke!

BTW I wonder how is it that I have been able to lay double black lines w/o a lsd? This may be a completely noob question, but this is my first car w/o a lsd, and yes I turn traction control completely off. I certainly feels like it does not have a lsd, especially when its a little slippery.

With an even road surface sometimes you can. The "E LSD" in this car basically brakes one wheel to try to keep them in check. With more power it usually can't keep up too well.

I've done plenty of 1 wheel peels in my N54 but it was making over 400WHP and 450WHTQ+. If you have the means the LSD really changes the dynamics of the car for the better.

[blown07]

The more power you add the more an LSD is required just from a safety stand point. In order to put any reasonable amount of power down you need to turn the nanny's off and once you hit some pavement that has uneven traction these cars will spin the frig out. Even with an LSD and decent power you will still spin but the car will tend to go much straighter.

[cstmx_ryder]

Just like someone's suggested. I'd go though ALL of the typical maintenance work on N54s PRIOR to modding anything......That's probably the smartest route to go IMHO.

[scottp999]

What is month and year of this coupe's production?

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Your welcome. Dinan offers the same thing essentially and warranties it but theirs is a little less sophisticated, costs more, and isn't quite as effective. Add an oil cooler if you're going to do any track days too. 2007 didn't have them. 2008 on did from the factory.

No. Some of them did, my sports package 04/2007 6sp came with an (edit) xxxxx oil cooler.

Originally Posted by willzim

Well the good news is when you're ready to start modding again you'll have a super easy time installing LSD in a 2007. It is one of the reasons why I searched for so long to find the car I finally bought. The diff is bolted on instead of welded like in the 08+ cars.

No. Manual trans cars had welded after 03/2007, and for 03/2007 you really need to look at the vin to tell which one you may have, unless you want to pop it open.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by scottp999

No. Some of them did, my sports package 04/2007 6sp came with an intercooler.

They ALL have intercoolers...

[nick380]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Drilled and slots are not for rain or dust. They are a release for built up gases during braking. Thinking of your pad hydroplaning like a bald tire in the rain vs one with tread that has grooves to let the gases escape. Slots are more effective and drilled can Crack more easily, but drilled are aestheticallypleasing. I have drilled slotted because I like the looks but if I was tracking on a regular basis I'd have slotted only.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate you correcting me. I'll be sure to look out for slotted rotors next time around! My friend said the same thing about the cross-drilled nothing but for looks.

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Non run flat tires and maybe wheels are always first.

100% Agreed, made a world's difference switching to non-runflats, first thing i'd attack as well!

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

They ALL have intercoolers...

Maybe he miss wrote and meant oil cooler...I know those for the first models did not come standard on the AT, but did on the MT.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

They ALL have intercoolers...

Yes. I posted OIL cooler not intercooler.