[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 9iron

Thanks for the input. I heard back from the dealer yesterday with some good news.....it was the oil filter housing gasket that was leaking and the drip made it look like it was from under the car. I thought it looked like the VCG they replaced was the culprit, but they insist it is the OFHG that is dripping....i will need to look further into this when i get the car home.

I plan to fix the OFHG this weekend myself.

I did fix quite a few things already.... plugs/coils/brakes/rotors/VCG/oil pan gasket/trans selector seal/tires/fluids........and soon the OFHG.

The water-pump is a "for sure" to crap out at some point. I guess i need to save up for the rear main seal as well. But then the motor mounts, suspension, and God knows what else could crap out too...

Maybe i should bite the bullet and keep driving it. The whole reason i bought the 328 instead of the 335 was because i thought the longevity would be better and the maintenance would be less......

Its just tough to keep dumping $$$$ into a car that isnt worth much

I don't think you need to worry about motor mounts and the like. Once you get over 100k, your probably looking at new shocks and struts plus supporting parts. Perhaps rear ball joints (maybe) and a control arm here and there. If your roads are good, you can ignore the last sentence till about 150k.

The n52 is a good motor.

When you hit 100k, do a complete fluid swap.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 9iron

Thanks for the input. I heard back from the dealer yesterday with some good news.....it was the oil filter housing gasket that was leaking and the drip made it look like it was from under the car. I thought it looked like the VCG they replaced was the culprit, but they insist it is the OFHG that is dripping....i will need to look further into this when i get the car home.

I plan to fix the OFHG this weekend myself.

I did fix quite a few things already.... plugs/coils/brakes/rotors/VCG/oil pan gasket/trans selector seal/tires/fluids........and soon the OFHG.

The water-pump is a "for sure" to crap out at some point. I guess i need to save up for the rear main seal as well. But then the motor mounts, suspension, and God knows what else could crap out too...

Maybe i should bite the bullet and keep driving it. The whole reason i bought the 328 instead of the 335 was because i thought the longevity would be better and the maintenance would be less......

Its just tough to keep dumping $$$$ into a car that isnt worth much

Jesus, you worry about stuff too much. Rear crank seals develop leaks all the time. Sometimes you can replace them, and if not done correctly, it will soon start leaking again. Keep in mind the seal only leaks when the engine is running since the oil level in the pan is well below the crankshaft center line. The crank seal is an expensive repair since it requires removal of the transmission and flywheel. It looks like a lot of oil comes out of the crank seal but in reality it is not much. My car has 200K more miles than yours and I've not done half the stuff you have. Engines leak oil, it's just a fact of life. My rear seal is leaking and so is the pan. When the clutch needs to come out, I replace them then, but it can leak all it wants. I drive the car 160 miles a day. A rear crank seal will never leave you on the side of the road, so relax about it. The water pump WILL leave you on the side of the road.

As far as engine mounts, if the motor is moving around hitting stuff then yeah. I went through my suspension at 180K (it wasn't that bad anyway) and I may swap to a Bilstein B12 here at 300,000 just because my Z4 rides way better, and I want to firm up the E90's suspension (I already have the EO sport suspension). Trying to keep the car new and fresh can get expensive... Cars age over time and mileage. You can never spend enough money to make it factory fresh and it makes no economical sense to do so. Just my 2 cents.

[9iron]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Jesus, you worry about stuff too much. Rear crank seals develop leaks all the time. Sometimes you can replace them, and if not done correctly, it will soon start leaking again. Keep in mind the seal only leaks when the engine is running since the oil level in the pan is well below the crankshaft center line. The crank seal is an expensive repair since it requires removal of the transmission and flywheel. It looks like a lot of oil comes out of the crank seal but in reality it is not much. My car has 200K more miles than yours and I've not done half the stuff you have. Engines leak oil, it's just a fact of life. My rear seal is leaking and so is the pan. When the clutch needs to come out, I replace them then, but it can leak all it wants. I drive the car 160 miles a day. A rear crank seal will never leave you on the side of the road, so relax about it. The water pump WILL leave you on the side of the road.

As far as engine mounts, if the motor is moving around hitting stuff then yeah. I went through my suspension at 180K (it wasn't that bad anyway) and I may swap to a Bilstein B12 here at 300,000 just because my Z4 rides way better, and I want to firm up the E90's suspension (I already have the EO sport suspension). Trying to keep the car new and fresh can get expensive... Cars age over time and mileage. You can never spend enough money to make it factory fresh and it makes no economical sense to do so. Just my 2 cents.

LOL. Im not too worried, but the fact is im fairly ignorant when it comes to fixing cars. Im not a mechanic or an engineer, so a lot of my education comes from this website. Ive always been one of those guys who just bought a new car every time i hit 100k......this is the first one i decided to commit to for longer, so im kinda in uncharted waters.

Ive been trying to learn what 'needs' to be done on here, because other than that, i gotta take the mechanic/dealers word for it......and you can see why that can be concerning

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 9iron

LOL. Im not too worried, but the fact is im fairly ignorant when it comes to fixing cars. Im not a mechanic or an engineer, so a lot of my education comes from this website. Ive always been one of those guys who just bought a new car every time i hit 100k......this is the first one i decided to commit to for longer, so im kinda in uncharted waters.

Ive been trying to learn what 'needs' to be done on here, because other than that, i gotta take the mechanic/dealers word for it......and you can see why that can be concerning

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

I wasn't flaming so apologies if you took it that way. I've kept several cars way past 200,000 miles, so I've got some experience here. But I'm a gearhead and been working on cars before I had a license to drive, so most things are not a mystery to me and are challenges now; and I understand your point. I've kept two 3-Series past 250,000 (an E30 and my E90). Took an Acura Integra to 230,000. All were brand new cars. Keeping any car especially a BMW into high miles is not for the timid since the cost to maintain them goes up with mileage (more expensive things break). Most any manufacturer's cars will easily go 200,000 and be worth putting money into because modern cars are built so well. Every BMW I've been around has always proven to be a tough car. Some Series are duds, but the 3-Series is pretty much a tank. Both my E30 and E90 hit 200,000 with ease. The E30 spent 2 years in NYC with my wife too. It got more screwed up by the non-BMW shop she took it to than the city environment.

What I was trying to say is don't fix stuff that is not broken. Some people try to keep their cars factory-fresh and it is a waste of money in my opinion.

Good luck with yours.

[nick380]

Originally Posted by 9iron

I have an '08 E90 w/ MT and it is approaching 96k miles. The car has been great. I replaced brakes/rotors/plugs/coils/VCG/tires this year. I havent had any issues and it still drives very well.

Yesterday, i noticed a few oil spots in my driveway. I checked the VCG and OFHG and they both look clean. There appears to be dripping oil near the oil pan (i will jack the car up and take a better look this weekend).

I planned on keeping this car for at least 150k miles, but i dont want to be "nickel and dime'd" to death. I heard (and will look into pricing) that the oil pan gasket can cost ~$1800 to fix.

Should i cut bait and sell the car? The cost of replacing everything that *may* go wrong is concerning. What do you guys think?

I know a small oil leak doesnt NEED to be fixed, but i hate having my driveway trashed.

Sounds like you needed an extended warranty....just had Valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, waterpump replaced, and intake valve plenums cleaned (for 200 because they were already there working!) Total was 400 exact (deductible 200 + 200 for cleaning of valves). These cars if you are not mechanically inclined to the work yourself will require a warranty if you don't want to get hustled by the stealership (Although my dealership has been amazing in terms of service and I have not a bad thing to say about them, this is Santa Maria BMW). I do all the work besides the warranty covered parts myself , just browse the forums and read technical articles on your engine and car in general. You learn a lot from just reading others troubleshooting threads or reading DIYs on future projects you'd like to perform.

Also i'd suggest a Bently Manual if you plan on DIY'ing this car. It is by far the best investment i've made... the information is priceless and will help you so much in diagnosing common problems on the N54

Either way good luck man with those problems. These engines are solid and will last if treated with proper maintenance.

[9iron]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I wasn't flaming so apologies if you took it that way. .

No worries. I didnt think you were. It honestly made me laugh a little though, because i probably sound like a train wreck with these posts.

Thanks again for the advice

[E90Winter]

[QUOTE=GuitarDTO;18386354]Are you stalking me, and pretending to be the owner of my car?

Sorry for the problems with your car. I literally signed on to start a thread about similar topic. I have a 2008 E92 with 94k miles on it. My car recently had a service check back in February, and the following items were recommended along with the pricing the dealer gave me:
-Valve Cover Gasket leak - $1120
-Oil Filter Housing Leak - $550
-Oil Pan Gasket Leak - $1230
-Control Arm Bushings - $805

I did none of the work at the time, as I have had no signs of oil on my driveway or low oil warnings. Just yesterday, during an hour and half drive near the end my car threw me a low oil warning light, I was a quart low. So in roughly 5 months I've burned a quart of oil. Not a big leak by any stretch, but it's now got me pondering the fixes. At the time, my dealer said the Oil Filter housing leak should be top priority because once it goes, its significant.

$1800 is too high for the oil pan gasket. Again, my dealer quoted me $1230 for whatever it's worth. I am debating dropping my car off and seeing if they'll give me some kind of discount if I Have all of the above work done.

It brings me to the same predicament we all likely go through, how much are we willing to pay for repairs in time, money and annoyance vs. the peace of mind of just ridding ourselves and getting a new car. I'm really struggling with this decision now because I love this car, I don't really love anything new out there right now and I think everything is overpriced. I'm debating anything from buying to leasing a new BMW, GMC Sierra Trucks and Ford F150's lol. I'm all over the map.

It's interesting to hear how others work through these decisions.[/QUOT



Sept 2008 I purchased New E90 RWD 6 Speed Manual.. seems everyone wanted the slower, less enjoyable automatics and xdrives at the time..
I am very happy with the car in how it handles, the balance is just right and its comfortable.. its quick ( Especially without the added weight of the Auto and xdrives and delays from the auto)..
now..

for the first 7 years of ownership.. all good. (repairs yes but it seems like after 110000 miles or 178000 klm, the car needs more maintenance.

Aircond (removes dash)
Battery ( Car was not used one winters stored on faulty trickle charger.so it failed)
Blower Fan motor ($530 ) Approx
Rear Shocks m( $1100 aprox)
Oil FIlter housing ( $550)
Vanos Solenoid ( intake camshaft and one for the exhaust camshaft, mounted to the front of cylinder head) ( check engine at high altitude..) ( $550)
its always $500 or $1000

Now..today..the oil pan looks like a leak..

Year 6
I changed the valve cover gasket.. ( been dry since)
coils..maybe 3..


I am expecting:
Failure of the Water pump ( Surprisingly not failed must be the cool weather and highway driving I do..air cooled)
Suspension bushing ( Rear ) and ( Front)

I must have spent 8000$ since 2014 winter.
I will repair this leak.. but expect that at one point the car..will be used for summers... I will hold onto it .. as all the rest is perfect..

It needs a suspension refresh to make tight as new..

Cars cost money, BMW cost more. If your car is paid for..then the cost of repair will seem less then leasing 700$ per month.. Modern cars can last 15 years easy..all depending on various factors.. roads, and how you maintain it..

tough call..

I see old 964 porsche and old e30 that survived and continue to give pleasures to the owners that kept them..

[9iron]

Yeah, I decided to go all in and fix/repair.

Fresh tires (winter and summer), new dampers, oil pan/oil filter housing/valve diver gaskets, air filters, plugs/coils, fresh fluids, cleaned solenoids, new pads/rotors, alignment, water pump and t-stat, etc....

Car is running well and hopefully I can get five more years out of it.

[flexspec]

Originally Posted by Jklad

+1. Honestly you need an Indy or a tech who does work on the side. Oil pan gasket should be around $600, 300 or less for ofhg, valve cover less than oil pan. It's just nuts what you all are considering paying for these repairs.

Just did my OFHG today. Cost $44 (including parts and tools, i bought a 1/4" swivel torx socket - made all the difference for this job).

Took an hour. Then I conditioned my engine bay - looks like the day I bought it.

Also did a oil pan gasket (dropped the subframe and all). That was even more cost effective because I didn't have to buy any tools. It was around $17 for the gasket, $5 for the bolts, and around 4 hours. Was a really good learning experience.

Did a door actuator, took 30 minutes, $49 for 2 actuators.

I've learned so much doing these repairs/maintenance myself, and I ensure the quality of the work - because i'm doing it myself. There is a sense of pride that also comes with working on your own car, as well as a familiarity and awareness with it's performance.

[Denny347]

4 hrs to replace the pan gasket is pretty good. Mine is seeping but I bought a new set of pan bolts, removed the loose ones, replaced them with fresh bolts and re-torqued them. Seems to have done the trick. I'm good at fixing my car but dropping the front end seems like a lot of work.

Originally Posted by iceweasel

Just did my OFHG today. Cost $44 (including parts and tools, i bought a 1/4" swivel torx socket - made all the difference for this job).

Took an hour. Then I conditioned my engine bay - looks like the day I bought it.

Also did a oil pan gasket (dropped the subframe and all). That was even more cost effective because I didn't have to buy any tools. It was around $17 for the gasket, $5 for the bolts, and around 4 hours. Was a really good learning experience.

Did a door actuator, took 30 minutes, $49 for 2 actuators.

I've learned so much doing these repairs/maintenance myself, and I ensure the quality of the work - because i'm doing it myself. There is a sense of pride that also comes with working on your own car, as well as a familiarity and awareness with it's performance.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Denny347

4 hrs to replace the pan gasket is pretty good. Mine is seeping but I bought a new set of pan bolts, removed the loose ones, replaced them with fresh bolts and re-torqued them. Seems to have done the trick. I'm good at fixing my car but dropping the front end seems like a lot of work.

Hi, what torque did you use and part number of bolts if you have? Ty

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Hi, what torque did you use and part number of bolts if you have? Ty

Snug. It was too tight for a torque wrench.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 9iron

I have an '08 E90 w/ MT and it is approaching 96k miles. The car has been great. I replaced brakes/rotors/plugs/coils/VCG/tires this year. I havent had any issues and it still drives very well.

Yesterday, i noticed a few oil spots in my driveway. I checked the VCG and OFHG and they both look clean. There appears to be dripping oil near the oil pan (i will jack the car up and take a better look this weekend).

I planned on keeping this car for at least 150k miles, but i dont want to be "nickel and dime'd" to death. I heard (and will look into pricing) that the oil pan gasket can cost ~$1800 to fix.

Should i cut bait and sell the car? The cost of replacing everything that *may* go wrong is concerning. What do you guys think?

I know a small oil leak doesnt NEED to be fixed, but i hate having my driveway trashed.

I would not sell the car considering what you just put into it.

The Oil Pan Gasket is DIYable.

$1800.00 must be a dealership price; oh wait I mean a stealership price.

The actual gasket and bolt kit is maybe $50 - 75.00.

There are several DIY's on this site.

An independent shop that specializes in European Autos would probably be able to do this job for $750 to $900.00.

[bimmerlove335]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Jesus, you worry about stuff too much. Rear crank seals develop leaks all the time. Sometimes you can replace them, and if not done correctly, it will soon start leaking again. Keep in mind the seal only leaks when the engine is running since the oil level in the pan is well below the crankshaft center line. The crank seal is an expensive repair since it requires removal of the transmission and flywheel. It looks like a lot of oil comes out of the crank seal but in reality it is not much. My car has 200K more miles than yours and I've not done half the stuff you have. Engines leak oil, it's just a fact of life. My rear seal is leaking and so is the pan. When the clutch needs to come out, I replace them then, but it can leak all it wants. I drive the car 160 miles a day. A rear crank seal will never leave you on the side of the road, so relax about it. The water pump WILL leave you on the side of the road.

As far as engine mounts, if the motor is moving around hitting stuff then yeah. I went through my suspension at 180K (it wasn't that bad anyway) and I may swap to a Bilstein B12 here at 300,000 just because my Z4 rides way better, and I want to firm up the E90's suspension (I already have the EO sport suspension). Trying to keep the car new and fresh can get expensive... Cars age over time and mileage. You can never spend enough money to make it factory fresh and it makes no economical sense to do so. Just my 2 cents.

+1^^

My dad has an e46 328i with over 300k miles on it. Still running on original engine, original head gasket, original transmission, original differential. He's mainly done some front suspension work, cooling system rebuild, and belts & pulleys. Nothing very major, although i think it is in need of a rear suspension overhaul which is totally reasonable with that many miles on the clock.

These cars can go a very long time if properly maintained. Its a bummer some things that should be simple can be very expensive (i.e oil pan gasket and water pump/thermostat) but imo if you truly enjoy the car you will either do some of the work yourself or pay someone. In my case I try to do as much of the work myself as possible. I'm even contemplating installing my own RB turbos once I'm able to afford them.

Good luck with it, I would just fix the leak however possible and be done with it.

[Austin LeNomad]

Here's the first thing you have to decide...I would say this is a bit like a marriage, a long term commitment, and that means some effort to make this work

First, and really the most important, are you willing to learn to DIY on this car? Because if you are not, then this is not the car to keep for long term, all of these jobs are expensive at shops, whether dealership or not. So, look in the mirror, and think about it. There is no foul in saying "no way am I going to be that committed", just face the truth now and then get rid of it, and never go high mileage on a BMW, pick something else like a Honda or a Toyota, things that go a longer ways and are cheaper to maintain at a shop.

Ok, if the answer is "yes", then you will just have to trust me that everything you want to do is doable, by yourself, without air tools if necessary. Next, take that list and break it down to something you will work on each month, 1 item at a time. There's no way you are going to do all these jobs one after the other, so don't think like that, just wear it down, and it will get done.

I would say that you start with one of the easier ones to do by yourself, before working up to the hard ones. For example, the oil pan leak is 99% likely what you have, and it's hard, I know I did it in January on mine. The topside jobs are easier, such as the valvecover, although not necessarily a short job, but it can be done in a weekend.

Make sure you don't scrimp and read the DIY on the jobs, getting all the little parts around it. Have good shop gloves, have very BMW-oriented tools such as an extensive Torx socket set, and metric sockets, have at least 2 8mm, 10mm,8mm,and 14mm sockets always around on a ratchet or two.

When I had to go through my 2006, I spent about a year of focus on it, every month or two tackling everything you have in your list, oil pan gasket replacement, upper and lower control arms, tie rods, valve cover gasket, etc. Each job was a weekend and the oil pan gasket was across 3 days (thanksgiving weekend to get it down without impacting work).

If you can get over the hump of this work, you have a lot of good miles left in the car. But you can't let it slide too low, the leaks become a river and then it starts destroying itself, getting all over sensors and things, and it's disheartening to come out and see that garbage every day on your car.

Good luck and tell us what you decide, we are here to help if you DIY.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Austin LeNomad

Here's the first thing you have to decide...I would say this is a bit like a marriage, a long term commitment, and that means some effort to make this work

First, and really the most important, are you willing to learn to DIY on this car? Because if you are not, then this is not the car to keep for long term, all of these jobs are expensive at shops, whether dealership or not. So, look in the mirror, and think about it. There is no foul in saying "no way am I going to be that committed", just face the truth now and then get rid of it, and never go high mileage on a BMW, pick something else like a Honda or a Toyota, things that go a longer ways and are cheaper to maintain at a shop.

Ok, if the answer is "yes", then you will just have to trust me that everything you want to do is doable, by yourself, without air tools if necessary. Next, take that list and break it down to something you will work on each month, 1 item at a time. There's no way you are going to do all these jobs one after the other, so don't think like that, just wear it down, and it will get done.

I would say that you start with one of the easier ones to do by yourself, before working up to the hard ones. For example, the oil pan leak is 99% likely what you have, and it's hard, I know I did it in January on mine. The topside jobs are easier, such as the valvecover, although not necessarily a short job, but it can be done in a weekend.

Make sure you don't scrimp and read the DIY on the jobs, getting all the little parts around it. Have good shop gloves, have very BMW-oriented tools such as an extensive Torx socket set, and metric sockets, have at least 2 8mm, 10mm,8mm,and 14mm sockets always around on a ratchet or two.

When I had to go through my 2006, I spent about a year of focus on it, every month or two tackling everything you have in your list, oil pan gasket replacement, upper and lower control arms, tie rods, valve cover gasket, etc. Each job was a weekend and the oil pan gasket was across 3 days (thanksgiving weekend to get it down without impacting work).

If you can get over the hump of this work, you have a lot of good miles left in the car. But you can't let it slide too low, the leaks become a river and then it starts destroying itself, getting all over sensors and things, and it's disheartening to come out and see that garbage every day on your car.

Good luck and tell us what you decide, we are here to help if you DIY.

Being this thread is 2 years old and the OP had his car repaired a long time ago, your comments to the OP are a bit ill-timed, but it is good advice for the new BMW owner contemplating ownership of a high-mileage BMW. So for new people reading this thread and this post in particular, it is true that owning a BMW part 100,000 miles is best if you can DIY. However...

Like the OP, who admitted he doesn't really DIY, repairing a BMW as a novice home mechanic can be disastrous. I've been wrenching on cars since before I was old enough to drive. I've been wrenching on BMWs for over 30 years. And I have a dedicated automotive shop in my garage, a building I purposefully built to wrench on vehicles. Working on BMWs is not for the novice, and especially something as complex as an oil pan gasket or valve cover change on an E90. There are a lot of specialized tools that are needed that your general 150-piece Sears Craftsman tool set doesn't have. And you need a good floor jack and 4 jack stands, or a lift, as basic tools to own to do any repair under the car. Some people are not mechanically inclined, working on and breaking a BMW can get expensive, which makes it far less expensive to have a shop perform the repair. The price you pay for a shop, over a DIY job, is their experience, training, and expertise, their tool set, and their business expenses. You have all the same expenses, you just don't count them into the cost of the DIY (especially your labor). If you did count all your expenses, the shop cost is really not that bad.

Food for thought.

[Austin LeNomad]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Being this thread is 2 years old and the OP had his car repaired a long time ago, your comments to the OP are a bit ill-timed, but it is good advice for the new BMW owner contemplating ownership of a high-mileage BMW. So for new people reading this thread and this post in particular, it is true that owning a BMW part 100,000 miles is best if you can DIY. However...

Like the OP, who admitted he doesn't really DIY, repairing a BMW as a novice home mechanic can be disastrous. I've been wrenching on cars since before I was old enough to drive. I've been wrenching on BMWs for over 30 years. And I have a dedicated automotive shop in my garage, a building I purposefully built to wrench on vehicles. Working on BMWs is not for the novice, and especially something as complex as an oil pan gasket or valve cover change on an E90. There are a lot of specialized tools that are needed that your general 150-piece Sears Craftsman tool set doesn't have. And you need a good floor jack and 4 jack stands, or a lift, as basic tools to own to do any repair under the car. Some people are not mechanically inclined, working on and breaking a BMW can get expensive, which makes it far less expensive to have a shop perform the repair. The price you pay for a shop, over a DIY job, is their experience, training, and expertise, their tool set, and their business expenses. You have all the same expenses, you just don't count them into the cost of the DIY (especially your labor). If you did count all your expenses, the shop cost is really not that bad.

Food for thought.

Yes, I saw the original post has been some time, but since I had seen other people posting within a few days, I'd thought I'd add my two cents because, as you said, it's important for people to realize that they think about a 21st century BMW very carefully as a car. If you can't work on it, then you probably shouldn't buy it used, no matter your temptation. If you can afford taking it to the shop for the various expensive repairs, then you should just get a new BMW instead. Lease instead of buy, even. And, you don't want to be just able to change the oil, you want to be able to be pretty unafraid to take the whole car apart and work on it. Have the right tools. But, maybe you are right, there might be the right person who doesn't want new, but can afford to fix the old one at at shop and doesn't mind paying thousands each time. I'm like you, I have made sure I have a great collection of torx and other tools, and also keep cutting tools and sawzalls around when things get stuck on the car. In fact, you are my inspiration that I can get at least to 200,000 miles now that I'm past the current phase of control arms, tie rods, tensioner, radio screen pixels, and all the leaks that took me a few months to finish. I hope prospective owners take the time to look through the forums before buying.

[catcher22]

Add me to the list. At my last oil change my Indy told me my Oil pan gasket was leaking pretty bad. It's probably been leaking for a while, because it's completely obvious there is a bad oil leak due the amount of spotting there is on the floor of my apartment garage. It's almost embarrassing - "there's that guy who parks his BMW that leaks a crazy amount of oil in that spot. Just another BMW, lol...."

My Indy quoted me a couple of G's to do the fix, and then highly recommended I obtain an aftermarket warranty, wait a few months, and get the repair done under warranty.

I'm an '08 335XI, so it's next to impossible to get to the OPG on my car.

Honestly, I'm probably going to just top off the oil for a while and try to upgrade the car in a year or so. I don't drive much at all, the car only has 85,000 miles and it 9 1/2 years old.

Damn BMW and their shitty water pumps and oil gaskets. Valve cover gasket replaced, oil filter housing gasket replaced, and the oil pan gasket will probably never be replaced.

[F22_Raptor]

So how urgent is an OPG replacement if its leaking very little?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by F22_Raptor

So how urgent is an OPG replacement if its leaking very little?

I let mine go for over 100,000 miles after I discovered it. It started to leak at the right rear corner.

[F22_Raptor]

Thats a relief to hear, I just monitor the amount of leakage. Hopefully it remains minimal.

[LaChewy]

Your car is totally crushed.


How much you want for it?