4th CRACKED water pump

Cloud9blue · 05-31-2016, 10:30 AM

Any update on this? My factory original pump is starting to fail at high load and need a replacement. Would hate to go with a even less reliable pump...

Cloud9blue · 05-31-2016, 10:41 AM

Guys, what's the part number of your replacement pump? Apparently there are two versions out there right now. They all have the same numbers, but one has "KT" at the end which indicates remanufactured parts.

davidwarren · 06-01-2016, 10:06 AM

Are you guys breaking conti pumps? I just ordered a siemens/VDO from FCP. Installing it tonight.

feuer · 06-01-2016, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidwarren

Are you guys breaking conti pumps? I just ordered a siemens/VDO from FCP. Installing it tonight.

Siemens VDO is part of Continental Automotive since 10 years ago.

davidwarren · 06-01-2016, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feuer

Siemens VDO is part of Continental Automotive since 10 years ago.

well at least FCP has a lifetime warranty if it dies!

mgb1974 · 10-03-2016, 08:55 PM

Mine just cracked. 11 months old, about 11k miles.

ECS Tuning warranty these at all? Bought it from them.

///Mposter · 10-03-2016, 09:35 PM

Why not use the original rubber grommets and longer bolts? There has to be flex otherwise when the engine moves, the hose(s) put stress on housing.
For anyone who gets a new pump without them just add in the some rubber grommets like the ones from a toilet bowl kit or faucet repair . They come with all sorts of different thicknesses and whatnot.

Julian2485 · 10-04-2016, 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Why not use the original rubber grommets and longer bolts? There has to be flex otherwise when the engine moves, the hose(s) put stress on housing.
For anyone who gets a new pump without them just add in the some rubber grommets like the ones from a toilet bowl kit or faucet repair . They come with all sorts of different thicknesses and whatnot.

I know guys just usually change their motor mounts and that usually fixes the crack issue. I think the new bolts are steel now for the water pump if I'm correct. It's about time

Mixmaster · 10-04-2016, 04:53 PM

I read this thread yesterday , then on they way home pump died. Limp mode on the motorway in peak hour traffic.

Rat_House · 10-05-2016, 02:19 PM

i just had the stealership replace mine to the tune of $1500, but it does come with a full warranty which is a little comforting

3.1L Z · 10-05-2016, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julian2485

I know guys just usually change their motor mounts and that usually fixes the crack issue. I think the new bolts are steel now for the water pump if I'm correct. It's about time

But the block is ALU. Don't think they'd change to steel

Julian2485 · 10-05-2016, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3.1L Z

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julian2485

I know guys just usually change their motor mounts and that usually fixes the crack issue. I think the new bolts are steel now for the water pump if I'm correct. It's about time

But the block is ALU. Don't think they'd change to steel

Yes the new bolts are not aluminum. I found out from BMW and google lol. They don't need to be changed out when changing water pump

TrollToll · 10-05-2016, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mixmaster

I read this thread yesterday , then on they way home pump died. Limp mode on the motorway in peak hour traffic.

Shouldn't have read it.

Mdriver85 · 01-11-2017, 11:51 AM

I am about to replace the second pump on my son's 335i.. This BS

is about to make me sick. First off, I'm no expert of any kind, but I can hold my own when it comes to working on cars, trucks, ect.
1. The idea that the bolts are being over tightened too much is not the problem.
(Yes, over torqueing bolts can lead to trouble, but the pumps are not cracking there. )
2. This is a design flaw, plain and simple. Why they won't stand behind it and
repair these is all a matter of pride(which is a terrible thing).
3. The weakest link is clearly the plastic cover, the coolant reservoir float in
my son's car started breaking apart for some unknown reason about 7-9 months ago according to my son. Only a week or so after this the coolant system started giving faults. Then the water pump started leaking. After changing the pump and pulling it apart it was clear that a small object had been pushed through the coolant line and had gotten caught between the impeller and the housing right where the crack is. Therefore, causing the leak.

Each and every pump I have looked at and inspected has shown the signs of the same problem. I've looked into the possibility of installing a metal cover instead of the plastic, but first I wanted to talk to a BMW tech to see if this would be possible.

Please let me know what you think.

Clownaround · 01-12-2017, 10:42 AM

Im over 100k on original pump. Should I just keep tunning the original? Is anyone successfully replacing these?

MadeInPhilly · 01-12-2017, 10:55 AM

yeah these typically crack at the plastic cover. been talked about plenty times on the forum already.

DR-JEKL · 01-12-2017, 08:27 PM

If I remember correctly my 2006 build waterpump had a metal cover

Milan · 01-13-2017, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

If I remember correctly my 2006 build waterpump had a metal cover

N52 has a metal cover...go figure

Jaghi · 01-13-2017, 12:30 PM

Mine just took a crack the other night at 63k miles.. I ordered the OEM one but I'm assuming still no solution?

ZeeVaughn · 01-26-2017, 04:54 PM

No heat, coolant and temp warning light. let the car sit and checked when it cooled, expansion tank pretty much empty.

94k just got the car back from my indy and yup, there was a hairline crack on the housing. Thankfully they warranty all their work, including part failures, for 3 years/36k miles. I have a feeling Ill be back for another.

Mdriver85 · 02-05-2017, 10:04 PM

I will be picking up the leak detector tomorrow to check the coolant water for exhaust gases. This will give us a more accurate detais of wa eidea of what we need to do. I will post pics and updates tomorrow.

qualicas · 09-24-2017, 01:03 PM

A bit late to post. I was changing the thermostat in a 323i and noticed the waterpump hosing was cracked. That is how I found this. In my case it turns out that it is the electric motor housing that cracked by the screw bosses. Pump runs fine.
So, I own a plastic injection molding business. After reading about many similar failures I can say that there would be 2 causes, well actually one root cause.
#1 would be over tightening but that isn't the main cause.
#2 root cause would be in the mold that makes these parts. I mold in floor heating manifold valves. I inherited a mold that would not meet max pressure tests. I determined that an inside radius was too sharp. We literally took sandpaper to the mold to round off the edges and give a slight internal radius. You could not even see the difference but burst pressure went to 900+ psi from about 400psi. I suspect there is a bad internal radius or a sharp corner somewhere and that is causing all the issues. Over tightening something will just bring it out quicker.

A third possible cause could be poor plastic choice but I very much doubt that. Major plastic suppliers would have had their engineers recommend proper material.
Finally, unfortunately in my business there are many people making parts just by luck and not skill. I like to think I am not one of them!

Oh, by the way, this 323i is my first E90 well not counting my wife's 135i. I started with E36 and on to E46 and I think I have saved 6 or 7 cars from scrap by rebuilding. So I do have some BMW history even though this is post #1 on E90post.

05-31-2016, 10:30 AM	#45
Cloud9blue Brigadier General 717 Rep 3,251 Posts Drives: around the potholes Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: NY/NJ/MA iTrader: (13)	Any update on this? My factory original pump is starting to fail at high load and need a replacement. Would hate to go with a even less reliable pump... __________________ 09 BMW E92 335i: Top Mount EFR 7670 / Dinan / AP Racing / Wavetrac / TC Kline [Full Mod List] 07 BMW R1200S: Shine Yellow / Akrapovic / Ohlins 19 Volvo V90 T6: R-Design / Bowers & Wilkins / Polestar Optimization
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05-31-2016, 10:41 AM	#46
Cloud9blue Brigadier General 717 Rep 3,251 Posts Drives: around the potholes Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: NY/NJ/MA iTrader: (13)	Guys, what's the part number of your replacement pump? Apparently there are two versions out there right now. They all have the same numbers, but one has "KT" at the end which indicates remanufactured parts. __________________ 09 BMW E92 335i: Top Mount EFR 7670 / Dinan / AP Racing / Wavetrac / TC Kline [Full Mod List] 07 BMW R1200S: Shine Yellow / Akrapovic / Ohlins 19 Volvo V90 T6: R-Design / Bowers & Wilkins / Polestar Optimization
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06-01-2016, 10:06 AM	#47
davidwarren Captain 191 Rep 677 Posts Drives: M8C GC Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Louisville, ky iTrader: (0)	Are you guys breaking conti pumps? I just ordered a siemens/VDO from FCP. Installing it tonight. __________________ 2010 335i e90 Le Mans Blue/Chestnut Brown \| M-Sport \| 6MT
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10-03-2016, 08:55 PM	#50
mgb1974 Enlisted Member 5 Rep 30 Posts Drives: 2015 BMW 435I Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Cincy iTrader: (0)	Mine just cracked. 11 months old, about 11k miles. ECS Tuning warranty these at all? Bought it from them.
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10-03-2016, 09:35 PM	#51
///Mposter Macgyver 213 Rep 942 Posts Drives: 2007 e92 335i Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Greensboring iTrader: (0)	Why not use the original rubber grommets and longer bolts? There has to be flex otherwise when the engine moves, the hose(s) put stress on housing. For anyone who gets a new pump without them just add in the some rubber grommets like the ones from a toilet bowl kit or faucet repair . They come with all sorts of different thicknesses and whatnot. __________________ GTX3076R , ADV, JB4, FMIC, BOV, 17"APEX, 255/40/17 SQ, 6-SPD Manual
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10-04-2016, 04:53 PM	#53
Mixmaster Private First Class 28 Rep 99 Posts Drives: 335i E90 N54 / 2014 i3 REX Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Auckland iTrader: (0)	I read this thread yesterday , then on they way home pump died. Limp mode on the motorway in peak hour traffic. __________________ N54 E91 Msport Wagon, VRSF 7"FMIC, VRSF DPs, BMS OCC, BMS DCI, RB PC Valve, Wavetrac LSD, MHD Wedge , ER Charge Pipe, Nuke Performance Bov, MMP Inlets, Fuel-It Stage 2 Bucketless
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10-05-2016, 02:19 PM	#54
Rat_House First Lieutenant 227 Rep 372 Posts Drives: M2 Comp, Gated R8, DatsunZ, mk Join Date: May 2013 Location: Stamford, CT iTrader: (2)	i just had the stealership replace mine to the tune of $1500, but it does come with a full warranty which is a little comforting
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01-11-2017, 11:51 AM	#58
Mdriver85 Enlisted Member 4 Rep 40 Posts Drives: 2011 X5M Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	I am about to replace the second pump on my son's 335i.. This BS is about to make me sick. First off, I'm no expert of any kind, but I can hold my own when it comes to working on cars, trucks, ect. 1. The idea that the bolts are being over tightened too much is not the problem. (Yes, over torqueing bolts can lead to trouble, but the pumps are not cracking there. ) 2. This is a design flaw, plain and simple. Why they won't stand behind it and repair these is all a matter of pride(which is a terrible thing). 3. The weakest link is clearly the plastic cover, the coolant reservoir float in my son's car started breaking apart for some unknown reason about 7-9 months ago according to my son. Only a week or so after this the coolant system started giving faults. Then the water pump started leaking. After changing the pump and pulling it apart it was clear that a small object had been pushed through the coolant line and had gotten caught between the impeller and the housing right where the crack is. Therefore, causing the leak. Each and every pump I have looked at and inspected has shown the signs of the same problem. I've looked into the possibility of installing a metal cover instead of the plastic, but first I wanted to talk to a BMW tech to see if this would be possible. Please let me know what you think.
	Appreciate 1 Julian2485112.50 Quote

01-12-2017, 10:42 AM	#59
Clownaround Private First Class 46 Rep 102 Posts Drives: 2007 335xi Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: CT iTrader: (0)	Im over 100k on original pump. Should I just keep tunning the original? Is anyone successfully replacing these?
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01-12-2017, 10:55 AM	#60
MadeInPhilly First Lieutenant 44 Rep 301 Posts Drives: E30 318is, E90 335i, 03 GTI Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Dallas, TX iTrader: (0)	yeah these typically crack at the plastic cover. been talked about plenty times on the forum already.
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01-12-2017, 08:27 PM	#61
DR-JEKL Major General 909 Rep 6,285 Posts Drives: Space Grey E92 335i 6MT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Newcastle Ozstraylia iTrader: (3)	If I remember correctly my 2006 build waterpump had a metal cover
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01-13-2017, 12:30 PM	#63
Jaghi Private First Class 20 Rep 161 Posts Drives: Wraith Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: DC iTrader: (0)	Mine just took a crack the other night at 63k miles.. I ordered the OEM one but I'm assuming still no solution?
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01-26-2017, 04:54 PM	#64
ZeeVaughn Second Lieutenant 86 Rep 207 Posts Drives: E92 335i 6MT SG/Coral Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Norcal iTrader: (0)	No heat, coolant and temp warning light. let the car sit and checked when it cooled, expansion tank pretty much empty. 94k just got the car back from my indy and yup, there was a hairline crack on the housing. Thankfully they warranty all their work, including part failures, for 3 years/36k miles. I have a feeling Ill be back for another. __________________ Remember the buster
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02-05-2017, 10:04 PM	#65
Mdriver85 Enlisted Member 4 Rep 40 Posts Drives: 2011 X5M Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	I will be picking up the leak detector tomorrow to check the coolant water for exhaust gases. This will give us a more accurate detais of wa eidea of what we need to do. I will post pics and updates tomorrow.
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09-24-2017, 01:03 PM	#66
qualicas New Member 39 Rep 19 Posts Drives: 2010 135 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Calgary Alberta iTrader: (0)	A bit late to post. I was changing the thermostat in a 323i and noticed the waterpump hosing was cracked. That is how I found this. In my case it turns out that it is the electric motor housing that cracked by the screw bosses. Pump runs fine. So, I own a plastic injection molding business. After reading about many similar failures I can say that there would be 2 causes, well actually one root cause. #1 would be over tightening but that isn't the main cause. #2 root cause would be in the mold that makes these parts. I mold in floor heating manifold valves. I inherited a mold that would not meet max pressure tests. I determined that an inside radius was too sharp. We literally took sandpaper to the mold to round off the edges and give a slight internal radius. You could not even see the difference but burst pressure went to 900+ psi from about 400psi. I suspect there is a bad internal radius or a sharp corner somewhere and that is causing all the issues. Over tightening something will just bring it out quicker. A third possible cause could be poor plastic choice but I very much doubt that. Major plastic suppliers would have had their engineers recommend proper material. Finally, unfortunately in my business there are many people making parts just by luck and not skill. I like to think I am not one of them! Oh, by the way, this 323i is my first E90 well not counting my wife's 135i. I started with E36 and on to E46 and I think I have saved 6 or 7 cars from scrap by rebuilding. So I do have some BMW history even though this is post #1 on E90post.
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