[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Farroar

The only other thing I noticed that I don't think was in your original post; I had to disconnect the power steering pump from the oil pan. Not sure if you experienced the same. That involved loosening the belt and removing three torx bolts, one in the front of the oil pan, and two in the side.

That must be a N54/N55 thing. No need to do anything with the accessory belt or power steering pump on N52 oil pan replacement. On the N54/55 the because of turbo they must have moved the a/c compressor where N52 power steering pump is, and move the power steering pump down on to the oil pan area.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I think you should reconsider and take a look again. I don't own a 335XI, but it doesn't seem to me the exhaust would prevent removal of the pedestal bolts. Because they cannot be on the way of the passenger side axle going into it. I would think if you remove the passenger side axle you would access the bolts from the space left by the removal of the axle from wheel well. But even from under the engine you probably will be able reach them. And then worse case as I wrote in previous post you should be able to drop it bolted to the oil pan and remove it outside if you chose to replace the o-ring that seals its on the oil pan surface, which I do recommend because I heard those O-rings can leak, why not do it when you have the perfect opportunity to do so.

This is a picture I could find of an 5 series N55 or N54, three of bolts are exposed in this picture accesable. Granted 5 series is bigger so should have more room, but still:

http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techart...mall/pic11.jpg

I couldn't find any reference that mentions need of removal of exhaust to replace the oil pan for N55/N54 3 series.

I just did this on my 335xi. Zero issues removing pedestal bolts. The one by the exhaust is easily accessible with a standard wrench, and the bolt slides right out.

[ezobens]

I have a 2009 335xi with the dreaded leaking oil pan gasket and read this VERY informative and comprehensive thread. Outstanding document!!

I have somewhat of a dumb question since I am trying to make this painless as possible. How far does the oil pan need to drop in order to remove the old gasket and install the new one?
3 inches? 6???
Thank you for your time.
Elm

[PhaseP]

How far does the oil pan need to drop in order to remove the old gasket and install the new one?
3 inches? 6???

You will be able to remove the oil pan out of the car completely. See my pictures and description at the beginning of the thread. The only things left attaching the subframe to the rest of the car would be the sway bar and the power steering lines to the steering rack that would be still bolted to subframe. And this would allow you to swing open the subframe like a door hinged at the front of the car where the sway bar link and power steering lines are. Then you have full access to the under of the engine and easily can pull out the oil pan after unbolting it.

I had put a jack at the front of the subframe not to make the power steering lines pulled down and stressed, but the rear of the subframe had swung down all the way to the pavement (car was on jack stands).

[ezobens]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

You will be able to remove the oil pan out of the car completely. See my pictures and description at the beginning of the thread. The only things left attaching the subframe to the rest of the car would be the sway bar and the power steering lines to the steering rack that would be still bolted to subframe. And this would allow you to swing open the subframe like a door hinged at the front of the car where the sway bar link and power steering lines are. Then you have full access to the under of the engine and easily can pull out the oil pan after unbolting it.

I had put a jack at the front of the subframe not to make the power steering lines pulled down and stressed, but the rear of the subframe had swung down all the way to the pavement (car was on jack stands).

I guess what I am asking is why would I need to remove the oil pan completely if (a big IF) I can replace the gasket without doing so?

Just thinking a little outside the box:
Instead of dropping the sub-frame and all the headache that involves, can I unbolt the pan, unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine high enough to remove the gasket and replace?
I really have no need to remove the pan totally- I just need clearance to get the gasket out and in.
I just need to figure out how much space is required to replace the gasket and be able to snake the gasket around the oil pump pick-up without damage.

Thoughts?
Thank you,
Elm

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by ezobens

I guess what I am asking is why would I need to remove the oil pan completely if (a big IF) I can replace the gasket without doing so?

It has been a while since I did this job, I don't remember how much room you would have. I doubt lifting the engine up will give enough, it hardly gives enough room to replace the engine mounts. But if you also drop the frame but not disconnect the axles to hang down you may have enough room, or you may not. It will be awkward trying to get the oil pan back up as the axles and differential will be additional weights.
You can give it a try.

[ezobens]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

It has been a while since I did this job, I don't remember how much room you would have. I doubt lifting the engine up will give enough, it hardly gives enough room to replace the engine mounts. But if you also drop the frame but not disconnect the axles to hang down you may have enough room, or you may not. It will be awkward trying to get the oil pan back up as the axles and differential will be additional weights.
You can give it a try.

Thank you for the reply.
Perhaps lifting the engine and getting some longer bolts to let the sub-frame drop a bit may be all I need. The biggest obstacle will be if I can reach all the oil pan bolts.

Speaking of which, I’m also curious if anyone has used stainless bolts for the oil pan vs the aluminum? From my understanding, the 335 (N54) blocks are aluminum vs magnesium so I would rather just use stainless. The whole ‘torque to yield’ is fine for head or main bearing / rod bolts but it just seems overkill for an oil pan.

This is most likely something I won’t attempt till the Fall but I will let you know how it ends up.
Thank you for your time,
Elm

[fredcase]

almost done this job. Just need to put sub frame ans suspension back atm.

Amazing DIY write up.

I forgot to mark pre cat o2 sensors. So, connection at top of motor, one front, one rear, what one is bank 1, or bank 2? front turbo, or rear turbo?

[PhaseP]

I don’t remember disconnecting the O2 sensors for this job. I had disconnected for some other and I think the cable harness lengths dictate which goes to which. I have non turbo motor though.

[SG335Xi]

In the *long* process of doing this now.

One question, and it might be obvious if I looked again but I'm at work now. Which bolt location is 11137559537 for? (the 8x36, slightly longer bolt). You said near the pedestal, but can you be more specific?

For everyone else's reference, when doing a 335xi - there are a few steps you do not need to do that can save you some time.

You don't seem to have the "oil return tube" nonsense. Which means you don't seem to have to take out the bracket (driver side middle of the car) that has the sheet metal nuts on it.

If you're willing to skip the pedestal axle seal (which is on the passenger side of the oil pan), you don't need to take the passenger side steering knuckle apart from the strut - you have enough room with the axle still connected to shimmy the oil pan down (although, I did not drop my oil pan all the way down - just cleaned it up while under the car, and swapped the gasket for new.

IMPORTANT - someone else noted this already, but I missed it. Once you get all the obvious pan bolts out, and the power steering pump / bracket off (which is 3 bolts, two toward the front, and one facing the driver side) There are still a few bolts that are attaching a bracket, as well as the bell housing, to the oil pan. Once you start to take the last bolt in this location out, the pan will fall down, at least mine started to.

[PhaseP]

Thanks for sharing your experience.

One question, and it might be obvious if I looked again but I'm at work now. Which bolt location is 11137559537 for? (the 8x36, slightly longer bolt). You said near the pedestal, but can you be more specific?

If memory serves me right it would be the one right after the very long ones that are used, I think the one I tried to mark in this picture I found online. It is at a point where it was a on a bit raised thicker lip which requires it to be longer than others.

You don't seem to have the "oil return tube" nonsense. Which means you don't seem to have to take out the bracket (driver side middle of the car) that has the sheet metal nuts on it.

The oil return tube is only for '06 N52's, the ones that have silver vanity cover with magnesium (metal) valve cover. Later year N52's also don't have it, none of N54/55's either.

There are still a few bolts that are attaching a bracket, as well as the bell housing, to the oil pan.

These I mentioned in the DIY, but the power steering pump bolting on to the oil pan is an N5X thing, someone else mentioned this who did the N54 or N55 above and reported here like you.

[SG335Xi]

Yep,

Thanks to both of you. I went back and looked again after I posted and saw the additional thickness in the pan and figured that was the one. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.

Your guide was SUPER helpful.

I did end up taking off a few parts that I didn't have to (namely the bracket that covers the fuel lines) and ordering that quick disconnect kit for A/C lines that I ultimately didn't need.

Just trying to help a few of the N54 guys who want to tackle this save a few steps / bucks.

I also was stressing about having extra bolts in the oil pan bolt kit (compared to the ones I took out of the pan), but apparently either I ordered the wrong bolt kit, or they just gave me extras.

Funny enough, I also wasted about an hour trying to figure out where some loose ball bearings came from, that showed up on my floor... only to finally flip my floor jack over and realize they came out of the bottom of the jack itself.

Thanks again - my car is 100% back together and leak free after doing this job, and a few others (Filter housing gasket, intake walnut blast, motor mounts).

-Jamie

[SG335Xi]

Originally Posted by fredcase

almost done this job. Just need to put sub frame ans suspension back atm.

Amazing DIY write up.

I forgot to mark pre cat o2 sensors. So, connection at top of motor, one front, one rear, what one is bank 1, or bank 2? front turbo, or rear turbo?

No need to disconnect O2 sensors...

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by SG335Xi

Funny enough, I also wasted about an hour trying to figure out where some loose ball bearings came from, that showed up on my floor... only to finally flip my floor jack over and realize they came out of the bottom of the jack itself.

Thanks for sharing your experience here, it will help others.
On those ball bearings on the floor, I remember a few years ago reading someone else sharing the same story on this form with the ball bearings from the floor jack

[SG335Xi]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Thanks for sharing your experience here, it will help others.
On those ball bearings on the floor, I remember a few years ago reading someone else sharing the same story on this form with the ball bearings from the floor jack

Misery loves company.

The saddest part, I SUSPECTED as much and looked the jack over (which was currently holding something up so I couldn't really see the bottom side)... I looked the wheels themselves over and they were clearly bearing free solid wheels... never would have thought the jack had bearings that were horizontal to the floor for the rotation (not rolling) of the wheels.

-Jamie

[evanto]

Great DYI!! Thanks for putting time and effort into this

[sparkyblue]

Thanks for this DIY!

Currently in the middle of a huge overhaul including replacing the turbos and the oil pan gasket. Really useful to have all the torque specs in the DIY!

[BillyG]

Did anyone use Loctite 5970 to seal the oil pan? This sealant is listed on realoem.com for the oil pan, but to me it looks like an alternative to a pre-formed gasket, not a supplement. I found this thread, but it is inconclusive:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1359357

Besides, the datasheet for Loctite 5970 calls for at least 7 days of curing time before putting the assembly back in service, with full cure at 21 days. I can't imagine any body shop holding a vehicle for this long for this sort of a job....
Could anyone who has done this service years ago comment on whether their seals are holding up OK? I was just going to moisten the seal with a bit of engine oil and put it back with a new set of bolts.

[PhaseP]

I don't remember Loctite being listed at real oem for oil pan before.
Looking at newtis.info, for N52 E90 there is no mention of it in the oil pan (oil sump) replacement instructions.

I found this at newtis.info:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-sump/8IFSSRX6

Over there for N52 Loctite 5970 is listed only for sealing upper and lower sections of crankcase. That is sealed with some beads of silicone looking gasket from factory too, visible from outside. Makes sense that there replacement would be same or similar makes sense. But oil pan has its premade gasket.

Recent year BMW engines only using silicone gasket without premade gasket:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ump/1VnYxMaGPQ

Some people reported in this site adding Permatex black on top of the oil pan gasket for better seal. I myself didn't. My factory oil pan gasket lasted 10 years. My thinking was if replacement lasts 10 years too, car will be 20 years. In North East where I am daily driver cars rust out before 20 years.

[frankforte90]

Thanks PhaseP,

Your notes were an immense help tackling the oil pan gasket replacement on my 2007 335xi. Going to book mark it when I need to drop the sub frame again to upgrade turbos when the time comes.

I just completed a major maintenance work while in there replacing the oil pan gasket.

Intake port carbon cleaning.
Spark plugs
Boost solenoids
O2 sensor replacement.
Water pump and Thermostat replacement.
ARM 5 in inter cooler upgrade
Catless down pipes
Oil filter housing Gasket replacement
New Motor mounts
Control/Traction Arms replacement
Compression Strut replacement
Lower ball joint
Bilstien struts and shocks (B8 Cup kit) with H&R lowering springs
Replacing all fluids diffs, transfer case, transmission

My observations, my car had 120K miles on it, I think the rubber bushing materials BMW choose is horrible, nearly all suspension bushings were shot including the motor mounts and rear shocks.

Also if you attempt this job on an older car with rust make sure you have your pneumatic Hammer, Dremel, angle grinder ready

Once you drop the sub frame and get it out of the way working on the car gets ready easy.

I did have my sons helping its easier if you have additional hands. I did not remove the Steering knuckle maybe that is why it was hard maneuvering the sub frame out of its location.

Also get a decent torque wrench so many bolts and the weird 45,90,180 deg turns after setting initial torque. I had a snap-on torque wrench so it was easy doing those turns.

If you have the right tools your job will be easier that is the lesson I learned through out this whole process.

[Alloutofdonuts]

I have a question but I want to thank OP for posting and everyone else that contributed. On a scale of 1 to 10 in terms of difficulty, I would say this job qualifies as ‘burley’ lol. For me there was much less stress going into it, seeing how it’s done beforehand. So thanks and may good beers come your way.

My question; (I’m afraid I made a mistake somewhere along the line) I can’t seem to separate the passenger side drive shaft. I assume it is 2 pieces? I had a really hard time dropping the pan because of this, I’m still not sure how I/it did it. After struggling with it until I was about to give up for the night, then it seemed to just kind of fall down and I was able to remove the pan. My worry is I don’t think I’ll be able to put it back. I was considering taking off the boot and dismantling the inner cv when the time comes to put it back together but I really don’t want to do that, and I don’t think it’s necessary.

Any suggestions?

[PhaseP]

This is what the passenger side axle looks like:



It is same thing as the driver side axle, except the part that goes into the differential is way longer, because it goes through the oil pan inside a tube then attaches to the differential gear.

You should not be taking apart the axle. The axle is held on to the differential gear by a springy c-clip, like any front CV axle I know of gets attached to the differential. You either but something in between inner black painted section of it and the oil pan pedestal that it goes into the oil pan, and then sharply try to pry it. Or put a punch or big flat screw driver or something like that at the end of the inner black painted section, in a direction that it will force it out. Tap on the other end of the puch/screw driver whatever you are using with a hammer. One or two at most three hits later it will free off the differential gear.

I am not following what exactly you did. Did you get the oil pan down with the front differential still bolted on to it and the passenger axle attached?

If you have the differential detached, there will be nothing left holding the passenger drive axle from being pulled out of the oil pan.