[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Sorry, what doesn't make sense is the max vac you can get is -14.6 psi.. so I figured you were saying in in h2o, which maxes vac at -30

What do you mean the max vac you can get is 14.6 ? That the most vacuum our car will pull?

All Im saying is, I put my Mightyvac on the actuator nipple....and pumped it....it held every time I pumped it and i didnt hear a click until I got to around 17....

[bayerischer]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Just to update this. Lee and I talked and it seems that there may not be a vacuum leak but rather a potential for the compressor bypass to stick or be slow. Low boost on low end may mean that compressor bypass is stuck open or not fully closed. Too bad it's well hidden and quite a bit of work to get to.

hey yozh can u tell how and why do u think it may be the compressor bypass??

actually, my power is weaker through the whole rev range, not only small turbo, so what are the options to look at me?

I am even thinking the turbos might be gone, since I hear a slight whining when going to revs...

another option might be MAP?

or the EGR actuator? but there is a vacuum on the small hose when I unplug it since it's clearly visible at the frong engine going underneart the manifold to the egr actuator there

any other ideas? some other vacuum leak? my hoses were replaced, red hose is tight...

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

What do you mean the max vac you can get is 14.6 ? That the most vacuum our car will pull?

All Im saying is, I put my Mightyvac on the actuator nipple....and pumped it....it held every time I pumped it and i didnt hear a click until I got to around 17....

Sorry first, I said in h20, I looked at the mightyvac gauge it's in hg (inches of mercury)

I was saying it couldn't be 17 psi vac but is 17 in hg. Different scale which can cause issues if different people use different units. It's like comparing temperature in F vs C..
17 in hg is 8 psi vac
At sea level the most vacuum you can have is 0-14.6 which means 14.6 psi vac.

That's why i brought up how on the tdi actuators they started moving at 5 in hg and fully at around 18 in hg which is close to where you see yours as 17 .


-100 mpa is -1 bar, which is -14.6psi or 30 in hg

[Yozh]

Robnitro, I agree with your assessment. Start moving at 5 inHg

[Yozh]

Bayerischer, would you please post your whole story. I know you had posted bits and pieces here and there. But could you please post vitals like Euro or US. Mileage. Tune. Maintenance history. Recent work done. Error codes. Etc. post the full story.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Sorry first, I said in h20, I looked at the mightyvac gauge it's in hg (inches of mercury)

That's why i brought up how on the tdi actuators they started moving at 5 in hg and fully at around 18 in hg which is close to where you see yours as 17 .

Okay Im closing to understanding now

Last night I hooked up my mightyvac in line with the valve and it functioned as expected....or at least the vacuum did....so if the vacuum did, and I verified that the thing closed at 17...im assuming its functioning correctly. Yozh talked to me about doing the same with both the wastegate and the changeover valve. Im more inclined to think wastegate as I have played with the changeover before...But Ill test both....

[JuiceQuadre]

Just curious, the turbine switchover is supposed to go back into position ~20 seconds after shut down. Mine does but very very slowly. has it ever been determined whether thats a problem? Is it usually swift movement for most? Iv seen it reported couple of times but i dont think we have reached any consensus on that?

[bayerischer]

Originally Posted by JuiceQuadre

Just curious, the turbine switchover is supposed to go back into position ~20 seconds after shut down. Mine does but very very slowly. has it ever been determined whether thats a problem? Is it usually swift movement for most? Iv seen it reported couple of times but i dont think we have reached any consensus on that?

yes mine moves back very slowly too, but I too have no power

[da_trem]

Yozh,

where did you get that small check valve for the vac reservoir?

[Yozh]

The one to get

[civilator]

hi all,
do we know how much the vacuum hoses replacement job is being quoted at reputable shops like BPC?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by civilator

hi all,
do we know how much the vacuum hoses replacement job is being quoted at reputable shops like BPC?

I've heard an estimate of $250 before. Not from BPC specifically.

[Yozh]

$250 is cheap.

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by civilator

hi all,
do we know how much the vacuum hoses replacement job is being quoted at reputable shops like BPC?

I would say between $300 and $350. My bro-in-law just had his car serviced (maintenance, delete and tune) at BPC and I will confirm what he paid for the vacuum lines.

[rkstar9]

my wastegate vacuum actuator does not seem to move or click after pulling a vacuum of 26 inHg (the cheap hand pump i bought on ebay only pulls that much. )

I also ran the the test in rheingold and it does not seem move or make any noise. but i am not sure as the test must be run with the engine running and its loud as hell.

what do you guys suggest i should do next?

i am also getting error

00428B DDE: boost pressure control, low-pressure stage, control deviation.

and "engine malfunction drive moderately" when pulling hard into the highway

[Yozh]

You can always crawl under the car to get a better audible feedback. You may not always hear it opening, but when you released vacuum you should hear it click back. Also, when you are using a hand pump you will should see vacuum hold in stages as the actuator will activate and move the connection. 26inHg is enough. Also, hook up your pump inline with the feed line to the vacuum actuator of wastegate when you do your Rheingold test and see the gauge behaviour. At least you can confirm a healthy pressure converter. To get a visual on the arm of the wastegate, you need to take your engine cover and there is a small space from above between your block and manifold where you can see wastegate arm from above.

As for your fault 00428B, you've got Rheingold, so pull up the details of you have not yet. Check all the items identified. And note that it will block DPF regen.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Yozh

You can always crawl under the car to get a better audible feedback. You may not always hear it opening, but when you released vacuum you should hear it click back. Also, when you are using a hand pump you will should see vacuum hold in stages as the actuator will activate and move the connection. 26inHg is enough. Also, hook up your pump inline with the feed line to the vacuum actuator of wastegate when you do your Rheingold test and see the gauge behaviour. At least you can confirm a healthy pressure converter. To get a visual on the arm of the wastegate, you need to take your engine cover and there is a small space from above between your block and manifold where you can see wastegate arm from above.

As for your fault 00428B, you've got Rheingold, so pull up the details of you have not yet. Check all the items identified. And note that it will block DPF regen.

Thank you I was able to test the feed line to the wastegate vacuum actuator and it works fine.

after running the engine and warming up the car, the wastegate began to click when closed. so it's working now. I suspect the wastegate is getting stuck when the car is cold. thats why my "engine malfunction" message comes on for 5 seconds 10 min after starting the car then the car drives fine after.

[rkstar9]

Wastegate still not opening under WOT

can someone tell me if this test of the wastegate actuator feed line shows enough vacuum to open the wastegate?


(gage not at 0 so it looks like it shows 5inHg )

how many inHg should be required to open the waste gate?

[Yozh]

If you are doing the test in ISTA then it should actually describe in the test plan. I believe it calls for at least a 650mbar but I may not be exact. I can upload a similar video when I'm home. When I did the test it was switching between zero and full 29inHg.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Yozh

If you are doing the test in ISTA then it should actually describe in the test plan. I believe it calls for at least a 650mbar but I may not be exact. I can upload a similar video when I'm home. When I did the test it was switching between zero and full 29inHg.

Yes i forgot about that but that's exactly what it says :



so 650 mbar = 19.19 inHG

Im only getting 5 inHG

so would this point to the pressure converter as the most likely culprit?

[Yozh]

If your vacuum values check out before the vacuum accumulator box and after, when idling, then most likely a wastegate pressure converter.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Yozh

If your vacuum values check out before the vacuum accumulator box and after, when idling, then most likely a wastegate pressure converter.

Ok that makes sense ! Im gonna check on the feed line to the wastegate pressure converter to see if it's getting good pressure.

Im not sure what is meant by the vacuum accumulator box. If it's a vacuum canister reservoir I do not think x5's have it? it looks like it just goes into a thick vacuum distribution line where other things plug in.

Unfortunately my Vacuum pump disintegrated while i was getting a reading. It fell apart about 5 times. This last time it's beyond repair. word of advice to anyone don't get the cheap Chinese vacuum hand pump.

Going to get a mityvac.