[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by splatz400

If you are on the fb group omaha has one. I can put you in touch with him, even though I was going to get it after my europe trip

Im here as well...and he and I have already been in touch... Thank you though... It still may be around when you get back. no one has purchased it yet!

[splatz400]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Im here as well...and he and I have already been in touch... Thank you though... It still may be around when you get back. no one has purchased it yet!

Just trying to help where I can, wasnt sure of your screen name on here, got it now.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by splatz400

Just trying to help where I can, wasnt sure of your screen name on here, got it now.

I appreciated it sir.

[sukutash]

Is the weighted dogbone aft of the diffs rear bushing necessary to re-use? I'm also installing superpro bushings.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by sukutash

Is the weighted dogbone aft of the diffs rear bushing necessary to re-use? I'm also installing superpro bushings.

I can't say for certain. The part is described as a vibrational absorber on realoem. I chose to reinstall as I had room. Ask others that did the LSD whether they kept in in place and maybe get report from one that did not.

I actually have another noise related to the M3 suspension conversion. I'm hoping its either from the diff lockdown kit or the diff bushings. Otherwise, I have a gremlin to contend with somewhere else in my rear suspension.

[sukutash]

I decided to leave mine off. Decision was based on the BMW 8.8 bolt being too short and I didn't feel a need for it with the SuperPro bushing kit. Thanks for all your info, input, knowledge and time that it took to put this elaborate post together. It certainly saved me tons of time and headache.

I'd like to mention, add from my experience, the slight differences with my SuperPro setup and aftermarket BuzzKen exhaust. Since I went the BMW finned diff cover route and used the provided dimensions furnished in the OP, keep in mind that the bushings will change the dimensions. For example, the spacer thickness is less due to the flange of the SuperPro bushing and flat washer provided in the kit. In addition, my BuzzKen exhaust has a welded support bar thats in the same vertical plane as the finned diff cover so I had to slip the exhaust joint further aft to compensate for the interference. As a result I have to now spend some $ to get the exhaust back to snuff. I may be putting it up for sale and get custom plumbing. Any takers? I'd provide some pics but i cant figure this app out!

[BB_cuda]

I had to manually grind off about 0.090" from my aluminum spacer due to same thickness of washer that goes on front side of my powerflex bushing. We both learned the same lesson it appears. Let me know if you get any noise though that rear bushing since you're not using the dogbone. Good luck on the exhaust getting customized.

[BB_cuda]

sukutash, any update on the diff making NVH without that dogbone in place? My guess is it is quiet. otherwise you would have spoke of noises. Let me know either way, please. The last couple times I have done a hard pull, I hadn't heard the 50-60 mph noise any longer. Wondering if something settled in and noise went away.

Now that hurricane is gone, I can take a little time to play. I've been busy last week with Hurricane Harvey related work. My place is fine and thanks to all of the nice people that have checked on me both here and on FB 335d group.

[sukutash]

The only noise I'm getting is gear whine. It's really sort of 2 stages of whine. The normal acceleration to speed whine, low and slightly noticeable. Then there's the full throttle acceleration whine WHOA! Sounds like I'm running a supercharger in this thing. Pretty sure this is mostly due to the SuperPro bushing set mostly. Doesn't bother me but htis type of stuff is very subjective and personal taste. I really do not see a need for that dampener with solid bushings back there.

How much fluid did your diff take? Mine only took 1.25 L.

Glad to hear all is well with you.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by sukutash

Then there's the full throttle acceleration whine WHOA! Mine made more of a roar sound. Not like the roar of a bearing but more like the roar of the exhaust.

How much fluid did your diff take? Mine only took 1.25 L.
1.5L
Glad to hear all is well with you.

Answers embedded into your quote. Thanks for the info on the dogbone. A 140 mm long bolt is what I used. I'm curious to hear from yozh since he is using rubber M3 bushings on froint of diff and leaving the OEM D bushing at the rear. I'm betting Yozh will also delete his dogbone.

[sukutash]

My rear bushing was already torn in 2 places with 140k on it. I would've had to change it if I weren't doing the upgrade.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by sukutash

My rear bushing was already torn in 2 places with 140k on it. I would've had to change it if I weren't doing the upgrade.

Interesting news on the torn bushing. Did you know it was torn before disassembly or found it when doing the bushing removal? I ask this as others might have same issue and not know it.

I checked with Yozh last night. He kept the dogbone installed but he has the original bushing still at rear location.

[sukutash]

I was unaware it was torn until I pressed it out and had a good look at it.

[BB_cuda]

I pressed my rear OEM out and it looked undamaged.

In other news, the roaring noise I reported before has disappeared. I needed to inspect and make sure all is okay. Don't expect a problem but better to see. I also want to make sure nothing has loosened up (Calwaterboy DIY advice).

[sukutash]

How many miles on the car?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by sukutash

How many miles on the car?

56,500 miles

[sukutash]

Man...your bushings a little baby compared to mine.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by sukutash

Man...your bushings a little baby compared to mine.

I live very close to work (4 miles) so I mainly drive another vehicle back and forth. The D mainly does road trip duty. I'm told that diesel is better to just do longer trips with.

[Yozh]

I kept the dogbone. It's a heavy piece, but BMW describes it as a vibration damper and I did not want to experiment. The rear bushing we could not press out. It moved 0.25" each way but otherwise stuck. We ran out of time. Advise to others, please have proper bushing press to do this. But I think a challenge with the rear bushing is the welded subframe that bushing gets stuck in a gap between the two pieces.

Sukutash, I have solid aluminum subframe bushings and I have barely any whine. Only on deceleration a tiny faint sound that I could hear sometime.

[sukutash]

I also have TMS solid aluminum subframe bushings. I've had them on for a couple years. My hypothesis is that the rear bushing is main the noise maker. It must take most of the force from the drive train.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I kept the dogbone. It's a heavy piece, but BMW describes it as a vibration damper and I did not want to experiment. The rear bushing we could not press out. It moved 0.25" each way but otherwise stuck. We ran out of time. Advise to others, please have proper bushing press to do this. But I think a challenge with the rear bushing is the welded subframe that bushing gets stuck in a gap between the two pieces.

Sukutash, I have solid aluminum subframe bushings and I have barely any whine. Only on deceleration a tiny faint sound that I could hear sometime.

In regard to this rear bushing, the bore is not a continuous cylinder. It is two inward protruding barrels but a small gap that doesn't let the cylinder be continuous at close to center of it's axial length. I thought my pushing washer was getting hung up on one of those internal lips. Hope that makes sense. I broke my threaded rod 3 times before I realized something fundamentally important. I used a 3-1/2" hole saw as a receiver cup. I used a 1/2"-13 thread rod with several step sized washers and the wonderful bearing in HP Autosport's bushing press setup. That holesaw turned out to not be deep enough. So, the bushing was hitting the bottom of the holesaw and then couldn't move anymore. So, the threaded rod would tension load up further and then break.

Before I realized the bottom out problem, I thought I 1) had a lube problem on the threads 2) too much friction on the threads 3) I had another bullshit theory but I have forgotten it.

I cut another rod and luckily the h/w store makes you buy a 3 foot piece of threaded rod. As I took 4 tries to nail it. I used the much deeper cup from the HP Autosport kit but had to use my 1/2" threaded rod with it. It EASILY came out once I had the proper depth to push OEM one all the way out. It was only about 1/2 way out with the earlier iterations.

For those that aren't informed, Harold at HP Auto rents out this bushing tool kit for $69 + shipping +$300 deposit. I bent the threaded rod in it fighting the rear subframe bushing (not the rear diff bushing). Long story short, one piece poly bushings for the rear subframe are damn near impossible. I had to cut mine and slide in each half from top and bottom. I whined and got help over on the suspension/brakes/chassis forum. thanks to several over there for your help. Harold was cool and only deducted $15 for the damaged threaded rod. The threaded piece in the kit is much more robust than the 1/2" one I got from h/w store. This thing is more like an 11/16" and is a hardened alloy/toughened mutha.

Yozh, I'm surprised that fancy bushing puller kit you have access to couldn't do it. You put M3 bushings at front of diff, right? Not sure you had that down in thread here versus texts to me.

I have no whine that my old man ears can hear. Whatever was going on has disappeared. Of course I have polys instead of aluminum S/F bushings though. I agree the coupling from the diff to subrame is more important. I also think the dogbone plays a role in damping the noise. Nice discussion and thanks for sharing from other alternate configs.

[BB_cuda]

Yozh, Can you please add a picture of your drain plug please? Take your time as i know you are very busy these days.