[N54Society]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

The OEM outlets neck down to less than and inch on each side at the collector. We can't really claim a specific HP because there have been 400whp cars who have only made 20whp whereas 600whp cars are making 65whp. It all depends on how big your bottle neck is.

Thanks Tiago@VRSF
That actually answers my question.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

If I were the vendor, I would be dynoing every mod I sold if I actually believed in the claims made on my own website. You would have long-term sales and dominate the market with just two $100 dyno runs.

6500 products on the website with new ones added every day.

Dynoing every product requires us to buy a dyno, buy close to a hundred cars and hire a team of people to dyno cars 8 hours a day.

I like the idea of dominating the market but i dont think the dyno idea is realistic

Thats being said we do our best to post results of parts we sell.

This month we are dynoing the Open flash tune, Active Autowerke flash tune, Active Autowerke midpipe.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

6500 products on the website with new ones added every day.

Dynoing every product requires us to buy a dyno, buy close to a hundred cars and hire a team of people to dyno cars 8 hours a day.

I like the idea of dominating the market but i dont think the dyno idea is realistic

Thats being said we do our best to post results of parts we sell.

This month we are dynoing the Open flash tune, Active Autowerke flash tune, Active Autowerke midpipe.

Mike, we don't have 6500 power adding mods. You know what I mean, FBO: intake, downpipes, inlets, outlets, fmic, and of course turbos. Let's be logical here, not expecting a Lux halos to be dyno'd lol.

[dublin14]

Any product claiming to increase or help turbos make more power should have a number attached. We see it with intakes, Intercoolers, ect. Most buyers simpy like to see a hp gain next to a product like this. Even if its shown on a 400whp modded setup. Most here are modded anyways in someway. Best way to market a product like this is put numbers beside it.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

Mike, we don't have 6500 power adding mods. You know what I mean, FBO: intake, downpipes, inlets, outlets, fmic, and of course turbos. Let's be logical here, not expecting a Lux halos to be dyno'd lol.

LOL maybe not 6500 product that needs dyno but its defently in the thousands.
Keep in mind we carry products for other car brands as well not just BMW

[Cabdriver]

I have the VRSF silicone outlets on stock snails, would there be an improvement with these?

I imagine the silicone would generate less turbulence but highly doubt there would be a noticeable difference between the two.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

LOL maybe not 6500 product that needs dyno but its defently in the thousands.
Keep in mind we carry products for other car brands as well not just BMW

So, how do you know what you're selling? You've just claimed thousands of power adding parts that need dyno...but, can't dyno them to confirm power added?

How did we get to a point where the customer is responsible for this part of R&D, on their own dime?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

So, how do you know what you're selling? You've just claimed thousands of power adding parts that need dyno...but, can't dyno them to confirm power added?

How did we get to a point where the customer is responsible for this part of R&D, on their own dime?

That's not the argument here though


vbp6us suggested that vendors need to dyno every part they sell which is not doable for obvious reasons i mentioned above.

Had vbp6us suggested manufacturers provide dyno for their power claims, it would have been a different conversation

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The power gains are going to vary depending on modifications and tuning.

The other things is these improve turbo efficiency, which means they work less.

Reducing the restriction means your turbos work more efficiently, create less heat, lower WGDC and by no accident performance is improved.

I have no argument it's great to see data. However, to do it effectively, thoroughly and above all satisfactory to the majority is likely difficult.

[46m3csl]

Someone buy these and dyno them!! Lol

[Tiago@VRSF]

We’ve seen over a 20% drop in WGDC on a FBO stock turbo car but if there’s any interest I’ll be happy to offer up a full refund for the first couple customers that can provide us with a before/after dynos

[Mitchel63]

Any tips from anybody who has actually installed these? I’ve been messing with them for literally days. With the O-ring in the mounting flange, it makes the assembly too tall for the V-bands....they close right up without the O-rings. I’m sure I’m just missing something, but I haven’t been able to find anything online and I’m new to this car.

Thanks!

[Tiago@VRSF]

The o-ring is a bit thicker in order to promote a better seal. You can warm the o-rings up a bit in warm water to make them a bit more malleable.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by Mitchel63

Any tips from anybody who has actually installed these? I’ve been messing with them for literally days. With the O-ring in the mounting flange, it makes the assembly too tall for the V-bands....they close right up without the O-rings. I’m sure I’m just missing something, but I haven’t been able to find anything online and I’m new to this car.

Thanks!

I did this some time ago and went okay. I used a small amount of silicone to hold the o-rings in and let it dry for a day as the o-ring didn't seem to want to stay in the groove. I added a small amount of oil to the top surface of the o-rings to be sure I could rotate them as required. I started with the rear inlet and yes doing the rear clamp is tough. You need to make sure the new pipe is square in order to get the v-bands on. I cut the part off the v-band that hold the ends together. This allowed me to put needle nose pliers on the v-bands to draw them close enough together to start the bolt. I then did the front one with the silicone coupler attached.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by blown07

I did this some time ago and went okay. I used a small amount of silicone to hold the o-rings in and let it dry for a day as the o-ring didn't seem to want to stay in the groove. I added a small amount of oil to the top surface of the o-rings to be sure I could rotate them as required. I started with the rear inlet and yes doing the rear clamp is tough. You need to make sure the new pipe is square in order to get the v-bands on. I cut the part off the v-band that hold the ends together. This allowed me to put needle nose pliers on the v-bands to draw them close enough together to start the bolt. I then did the front one with the silicone coupler attached.

Thanks for the tips, we appreciate your contribution!

[jacobniell]

The outlet pipe fit the original turbo with the original size clamps but what about the original clamp on the IC?
I am running HPF upgraded IC made with the original clamping, will it fit?

[jacobniell]

Originally Posted by jacobniell

The outlet pipe fit the original turbo with the original size clamps but what about the original clamp on the IC?
I am running HPF upgraded IC made with the original clamping, will it fit?

Any comments to the connection to the Intercooler?

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by jacobniell

The outlet pipe fit the original turbo with the original size clamps but what about the original clamp on the IC?
I am running HPF upgraded IC made with the original clamping, will it fit?

You're trying to eliminate restriction in your intake tract but your intercooler will always be a bottle neck if you use OEM connectors due to the fact that they neck down to about 1.8" at the inlet and outlet.

You'll have to re-use the OEM boot with an intercooler that uses the OEM connection. We highly recommend against using intercoolers with OEM connections for this exact reason. The stock connections are prone to leak but more importantly the 1.8" bottleneck creates a significant restriction whereas the VRSF and other well engineered intercoolers offer inlet and outlet sizing that range from 2.75" to 3".

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

You're trying to eliminate restriction in your intake tract but your intercooler will always be a bottle neck if you use OEM connectors due to the fact that they neck down to less than 1.8" at the inlet and outlet.

You'll have to re-use the OEM boot with an intercooler that uses the OEM connection. We highly recommend against using intercoolers with OEM connections for this exact reason. The stock connections are prone to leak but more importantly the 1.8" bottleneck creates a significant restriction whereas the VRSF and other well engineered intercoolers offer inlet and outlet sizing that range from 2.75" to 3".

Not sure where you are getting these measurements, but there are certainly no restrictions in IC's due to the use of OE circlip style connections. They typically ID out around 2.4", very typical of most IC's on the market and also perfectly inline with the ~2.5" OD plumbing that supplies them to and from.

On another note this outlet does look very nice. Good work.

Rob

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Not sure where you are getting these measurements, but there are certainly no restrictions in IC's due to the use of OE circlip style connections. They typically ID out around 2.4", very typical of most IC's on the market and also perfectly inline with the ~2.5" OD plumbing that supplies them to and from.

On another note this outlet does look very nice. Good work.

Rob

Measure the ID of the OEM outlet adapter which when installed is inserted INTO the OEM interooler's inlet and outlet Rob. That's where the restriction lies. When utilizing OEM connectors, you're limited to the ID of the OEM inlet/outlet adapter which are certainly not 2.4", but less than 2" ID.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

Measure the ID of the OEM outlet adapter which when installed is inserted INTO the OEM interooler's inlet and outlet Rob. That's where the restriction lies. When utilizing OEM connectors, you're limited to the ID of the OEM inlet/outlet adapter which are certainly not 2.4", but less than 2" ID.

If one were to try to re-use the accordion style OE coupler with any new high flow outlet, for reasons unknown, then agree it would be less ID at around 2.1". A standard straight 2.5" ID coupler will correct this condition.

The point was that the use of the OE style circlip connections on an IC itself, is of no restriction. Here is an adapter that shows as such.

Rob

[Tiago@VRSF]

That specific adapter you linked is an aftermarket solution and if you were to use that adapter you're still restricting the intake tract going from 2.5" to 2.3". The OEM connector which 99% of customers are limited to using neck down to around 2".

Every upgraded outlet option available goes ranges from 1.75" to 2" at the turbo outlet and merges into a 2.5" collector at the intercooler. With the OEM connection, you'd then neck down to 2".

That's a bottle neck. Word it however you'd like but it's a restriction in the intake tract.