Valve cover gasket replacement-could I do it myself?

nsjames · 03-05-2019, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macheff03

Ok so if I don’t use a torque wrench should I just use a normal wrench or low torque ...

no, you need a torque wrench.

it's not negotiable.
1/4" drive is the right torque range for this job.

don't play with tiny aluminum bolts. You overtorque one and snap it off and you're gonna regret not having a torque wrench instantly.

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsjames

no, you need a torque wrench.

it's not negotiable.
1/4" drive is the right torque range for this job.

don't play with tiny aluminum bolts. You overtorque one and snap it off and you're gonna regret not having a torque wrench instantly.

https://m.harborfreight.com/14-in-dr....google.com%2F

Then I would assume this would work fine.
I might have one...

nsjames · 03-05-2019, 11:41 AM

yes.

rocky25b · 03-05-2019, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macheff03

https://m.harborfreight.com/14-in-dr....google.com%2F

Then I would assume this would work fine.
I might have one...

This is the one i used for my valve cover gasket, worked great. You will need a 1/4 wobble extension as well for the rear bolts of the valve cover.

k04 · 03-05-2019, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsjames

no, you need a torque wrench.

it's not negotiable.
1/4" drive is the right torque range for this job.

don't play with tiny aluminum bolts. You overtorque one and snap it off and you're gonna regret not having a torque wrench instantly.

That's funny you say that, because I snapped one bolt only when I used my torque wrench😂. That being said, I was using a 1/2inch wrench since that's all I had. 1/4 Tq wrench would be ideal.

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 12:18 PM

Well I will go with the 1/4

It sounds like it’s almost unison that though it is kind of challenging it is possible. I will probably do the oil filter housing gasket first and then see weather or not I’m up for the challenge of the valve cover gasket.

BravoJohny33 · 03-05-2019, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macheff03

Well I will go with the 1/4

It sounds like it’s almost unison that though it is kind of challenging it is possible. I will probably do the oil filter housing gasket first and then see weather or not I’m up for the challenge of the valve cover gasket.

Yeah the oil filter and belt is easy. The Valve cover gasket people say isn't bad but every few weeks someone is posting on here they did their VCG and.

1) there car wont start now
2) Oil is still leaking
3) Car runs rough after VCG

nsjames · 03-05-2019, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k04

That's funny you say that, because I snapped one bolt only when I used my torque wrench😂. That being said, I was using a 1/2inch wrench since that's all I had. 1/4 Tq wrench would be ideal.

you can't use a torque wrench near it's maximum or minum settings and not get massive deviations from indicated torque.

that's in the spec sheets with every torque wrench.

ctuna · 03-05-2019, 01:10 PM

Good idea to to the OFG first an the Tensioner and Belt.
There are ranges for torque wrench . They are usually
closely associated with the size drive .
a 1/4 inch drive will usually be in Inch pounds rather than
ft lb's . You want a wrench that ideally will be in the middle
of the range for what you are working on .
By the way 12 inch pounds = one foot pound.
Most of the time a 3/8 th's drive works but for the valve cover
you probably need the 1/4.
So when you are buying a torque wrench look at the range.
Also there is a torque to angle spec you can get a cheap torque
to angle adapter for about 10 to 15 bucks.

There are many steps to doing the VCG make a check list.
If you get tired or frustrated take a break and if necessary
rethink things. Have the right tools make sure you have all
items to do the job and contingency plans if things go wrong.
This is kind of like getting ready to do surgery or flight planning.

What are the locations of the Leak maybe you only need one
or the other replaced and not both.
As the one person mentioned here the most common nubby mistake
is over torquing and maybe cross threading.
To prevent cross thread always start your fastener by hand.
It can be in a socket but turn it by hand.
There should be no resistance if your doing it right.

The five most common problems seem to be
not allowing the Valvetronic motor to reinitialize .
Breaking the Hose at the Rear
Getting the cover on and off.
Not rolling the gasket
and making sure there is no vacuum leak.

Also if you work on the car with the battery attached you may
drain the battery or short stuff out .
Other things
If there is oil in the eccentric shaft sensor connector
its kind of an indication the sensor needs to be changed.

A further confirmation the VCG is bad is oik in the spark plug
wells . If you are changing plugs and find this time to do
the VCG.

Good idea to charge the battery after working on the car anyway.

The most frustrating stuff is no being able to reach things or
frozen fastners . You almost always come away with a few scrapes
to your person.

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Good idea to to the OFG first an the Tensioner and Belt.
There are ranges for torque wrench . They are usually
closely associated with the size drive .
a 1/4 inch drive will usually be in Inch pounds rather than
ft lb's . You want a wrench that ideally will be in the middle
of the range for what you are working on .
By the way 12 inch pounds = one foot pound.
Most of the time a 3/8 th's drive works but for the valve cover
you probably need the 1/4.
So when you are buying a torque wrench look at the range.
Also there is a torque to angle spec you can get a cheap torque
to angle adapter for about 10 to 15 bucks.

There are many steps to doing the VCG make a check list.
If you get tired or frustrated take a break and if necessary
rethink things. Have the right tools make sure you have all
items to do the job and contingency plans if things go wrong.
This is kind of like getting ready to do surgery or flight planning.

What are the locations of the Leak maybe you only need one
or the other replaced and not both.
As the one person mentioned here the most common nubby mistake
is over torquing and maybe cross threading.
To prevent cross thread always start your fastener by hand.
It can be in a socket but turn it by hand.
There should be no resistance if your doing it right.

The five most common problems seem to be
not allowing the Valvetronic motor to reinitialize .
Breaking the Hose at the Rear
Getting the cover on and off.
Not rolling the gasket
and making sure there is no vacuum leak.

Also if you work on the car with the battery attached you may
drain the battery or short stuff out .
Other things
If there is oil in the eccentric shaft sensor connector
its kind of an indication the sensor needs to be changed.

A further confirmation the VCG is bad is oik in the spark plug
wells . If you are changing plugs and find this time to do
the VCG.

Good idea to charge the battery after working on the car anyway.

The most frustrating stuff is no being able to reach things or
frozen fastners . You almost always come away with a few scrapes
to your person.

What would I need to do the drive belt tensonier?

I’ve seen a few videos on oil filter gasket replacement so I’m not too worried about that one and even if I leave the valve cover gasket for a professional that brings the cost from over $2,000 to around $500.

I could disconnect the battery...right? I’ve heard they’re hard to replace diy but that doesn’t apply to just disconnecting and reconnecting, or does it?

I plan on charging the battery anyway so that’s not a problem.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S94...ew?usp=sharing - this is the list of things I’m getting. The only thing not in this list is the torque wrench but will be buying that as well.

I took it to the dealership because I suspected an oil leak and I also had fluids flushed, etc.
The report did say that both the filter gasket and the VCG are the issues but I guess you can never be sure.
I will also add that there is oil buildup around my engine so oil is leaking from somewhere.

ryan stewart · 03-05-2019, 02:16 PM

the tensioner is easy, just some allens and the torx sockets IIRC, nothing unique. Taking the fan out makes it easier.

Id trust the dealer on the VCG, they are a known failure. Mine told me once it started weeping, about 8 months later I could smell it hitting the manifold and cooking.

Its pretty obvious looking around the mating points, youll see dark areas where the oil is weeping and staining the metal.

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

the tensioner is easy, just some allens and the torx sockets IIRC, nothing unique. Taking the fan out makes it easier.

Id trust the dealer on the VCG, they are a known failure. Mine told me once it started weeping, about 8 months later I could smell it hitting the manifold and cooking.

Its pretty obvious looking around the mating points, youll see dark areas where the oil is weeping and staining the metal.

So what parts would I need for the tensioner?

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 02:50 PM

Is this all I need for the drive belt tensioner?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11287838797-1

Efthreeoh · 03-05-2019, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macheff03

Is this all I need for the drive belt tensioner?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11287838797-1

That's the wrong one. Listen, use realEOM.com to look up part numbers. Then search the web for the part number you find on realoem.com. Also, newtis.com is a good resource for repair procedures. ECS is listing it for the E90, but it is wrong. The N52 is a spring loaded tensioner, not hydraulic. The correct kit is a tensioner, belt, and idler pulley.

The tensioner you linked is for the M54 engine, not the N52 that is in your car. What you don't know is up through the E9X series, BMW always carried over the 2-door model into the same model year of the new 4-door sedan, so there is a 2006 325Ci (coupe) and a 2006 325i (sedan). The 2006 325Ci is an E46, while the 2006 325i is an E90. Both cars are completely different cassis and drivetrain. Using realoem.com prevents this confusion because you use the last 7 digits of the VIN to find the parts for your specific model car.

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

That's the wrong one. Listen, use realEOM.com to look up part numbers. The search the web for the part number you find on realoem.com. Also, newtis.com is a good resource for repair procedures. ECS is listing it for the E90, but it is wrong. The N52 is a spring loaded tensioner, not hydraulic. The correct kit is a tensioner, belt, and idler pulley.

The tensioner you linked is for the M54 engine, not the N52 that is in your car. What you don't know is up through the E9X series, BMW always carried over the 2-door model into the same model year of the new 4-door sedan, so there is a 2006 325Ci (coupe) and a 2006 325i (sedan). The 2006 325Ci is an E46, while the 2006 325i is an E90. Both cars are completely different cassis and drivetrain. Using realoem.com prevents this confusion because you use the last 7 digits of the VIN to find the parts for your specific model car.

So I need that assembly but for my exact car ..

ctuna · 03-05-2019, 03:17 PM

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0022p

This one

The one you have listed is for an e46 I believe not and e9x

Efthreeoh · 03-05-2019, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macheff03

So I need that assembly but for my exact car ..

Yes. You need the N52 belt kit, which comes with the tensioner, belt and idler pulley. Look up the tensioner on realoem.com. Google it, and you'll find the kit with all three parts.

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Yes. You need the N52 belt kit, which comes with the tensioner, belt and idler pulley. Look up the tensioner on realoem.com. Google it, and you'll find the kit with all three parts.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0022p

Is this the one?

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 03:31 PM

Ok so my current plan is

Replace drive belt tensioner and OFHG myself.

Have a mechanic replace VCG

Efthreeoh · 03-05-2019, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macheff03

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0022p

Is this the one?

Bingo!

macheff03 · 03-05-2019, 04:51 PM

Does this updated parts list look right?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NlW...ew?usp=sharing

ctuna · 03-05-2019, 06:37 PM

You might want to make sure the VCG actually needs replacement.
And since we know that model year is susceptible to broken VCG bolts.
If you find one you might just want to replace it an torque it to spec
and see if that works first.
Also oil in the the Spark plug wells is and indicator but if you find
it there you are probably going to have to replace the VCG.

03-05-2019, 11:41 AM	#47
nsjames Brigadier General 2463 Rep 4,328 Posts Drives: 08 328xi Touring Join Date: May 2017 Location: ohio iTrader: (0)	yes.
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03-05-2019, 12:18 PM	#50
macheff03 Second Lieutenant 63 Rep 268 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 325i Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: South Carolina Coast iTrader: (0)	Well I will go with the 1/4 It sounds like it’s almost unison that though it is kind of challenging it is possible. I will probably do the oil filter housing gasket first and then see weather or not I’m up for the challenge of the valve cover gasket.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-05-2019, 01:10 PM	#53
ctuna Lieutenant General 2046 Rep 13,372 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Good idea to to the OFG first an the Tensioner and Belt. There are ranges for torque wrench . They are usually closely associated with the size drive . a 1/4 inch drive will usually be in Inch pounds rather than ft lb's . You want a wrench that ideally will be in the middle of the range for what you are working on . By the way 12 inch pounds = one foot pound. Most of the time a 3/8 th's drive works but for the valve cover you probably need the 1/4. So when you are buying a torque wrench look at the range. Also there is a torque to angle spec you can get a cheap torque to angle adapter for about 10 to 15 bucks. There are many steps to doing the VCG make a check list. If you get tired or frustrated take a break and if necessary rethink things. Have the right tools make sure you have all items to do the job and contingency plans if things go wrong. This is kind of like getting ready to do surgery or flight planning. What are the locations of the Leak maybe you only need one or the other replaced and not both. As the one person mentioned here the most common nubby mistake is over torquing and maybe cross threading. To prevent cross thread always start your fastener by hand. It can be in a socket but turn it by hand. There should be no resistance if your doing it right. The five most common problems seem to be not allowing the Valvetronic motor to reinitialize . Breaking the Hose at the Rear Getting the cover on and off. Not rolling the gasket and making sure there is no vacuum leak. Also if you work on the car with the battery attached you may drain the battery or short stuff out . Other things If there is oil in the eccentric shaft sensor connector its kind of an indication the sensor needs to be changed. A further confirmation the VCG is bad is oik in the spark plug wells . If you are changing plugs and find this time to do the VCG. Good idea to charge the battery after working on the car anyway. The most frustrating stuff is no being able to reach things or frozen fastners . You almost always come away with a few scrapes to your person. Last edited by ctuna; 03-05-2019 at 01:35 PM..
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03-05-2019, 02:16 PM	#55
ryan stewart Major 2249 Rep 1,351 Posts Drives: 2008 328it Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	the tensioner is easy, just some allens and the torx sockets IIRC, nothing unique. Taking the fan out makes it easier. Id trust the dealer on the VCG, they are a known failure. Mine told me once it started weeping, about 8 months later I could smell it hitting the manifold and cooking. Its pretty obvious looking around the mating points, youll see dark areas where the oil is weeping and staining the metal.
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03-05-2019, 02:50 PM	#57
macheff03 Second Lieutenant 63 Rep 268 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 325i Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: South Carolina Coast iTrader: (0)	Is this all I need for the drive belt tensioner? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11287838797-1
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03-05-2019, 03:17 PM	#60
ctuna Lieutenant General 2046 Rep 13,372 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0022p This one The one you have listed is for an e46 I believe not and e9x
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03-05-2019, 03:31 PM	#63
macheff03 Second Lieutenant 63 Rep 268 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 325i Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: South Carolina Coast iTrader: (0)	Ok so my current plan is Replace drive belt tensioner and OFHG myself. Have a mechanic replace VCG
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03-05-2019, 04:51 PM	#65
macheff03 Second Lieutenant 63 Rep 268 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 325i Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: South Carolina Coast iTrader: (0)	Does this updated parts list look right? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NlW...ew?usp=sharing Last edited by macheff03; 03-05-2019 at 08:58 PM..
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03-05-2019, 06:37 PM	#66
ctuna Lieutenant General 2046 Rep 13,372 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	You might want to make sure the VCG actually needs replacement. And since we know that model year is susceptible to broken VCG bolts. If you find one you might just want to replace it an torque it to spec and see if that works first. Also oil in the the Spark plug wells is and indicator but if you find it there you are probably going to have to replace the VCG.
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