[shnaggs]

Recieved the IDmax yesterday. Holy hell!!!! This thing is huge and weighs a ton! Is the mounting plate going to be strong enough to hold this monster? Maybe I will have to use some bolts and fender washers to aid in the integrity of the mounting plate.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Recieved the IDmax yesterday. Holy hell!!!! This thing is huge and weighs a ton! Is the mounting plate going to be strong enough to hold this monster? Maybe I will have to use some bolts and fender washers to aid in the integrity of the mounting plate.

You're playing with the big boys now!

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=76

This is what I did, and my friend Brett also. You can probably get away with less, and you probably can use 3/4" or 1" panel. I went 1.5" to be sure the cone would not be able to hit the back seat, but I never even got close, even with over 900W. This sub has the ability to get loud without much cone movement. Probably has to do with the tight suspension and the fact it is really 16" in diameter.

Congrats, you're gonna love it!

[shnaggs]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

You're playing with the big boys now!

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=76

This is what I did, and my friend Brett also. You can probably get away with less, and you probably can use 3/4" or 1" panel. I went 1.5" to be sure the cone would not be able to hit the back seat, but I never even got close, even with over 900W. This sub has the ability to get loud without much cone movement. Probably has to do with the tight suspension and the fact it is really 16" in diameter.

Congrats, you're gonna love it!

Thanks man, I am pretty excited about it!

What exactly is the back part of the back seat made of? Doesn’t feel like metal, just wondering how I can fasten the mounting plate. Sorry I havent taken my car apart to investigate, just don’t have the time right now, but can I take back seat cushion off and screw into the mounting plate from the back seat side? Any insider info would be helpful as I’m hoping to tackle this this weekend and time is limited.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

You're playing with the big boys now!

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=76

This is what I did, and my friend Brett also. You can probably get away with less, and you probably can use 3/4" or 1" panel. I went 1.5" to be sure the cone would not be able to hit the back seat, but I never even got close, even with over 900W. This sub has the ability to get loud without much cone movement. Probably has to do with the tight suspension and the fact it is really 16" in diameter.

Congrats, you're gonna love it!

I did the same but just put a JL 12TW1 on there in a vented box. IB is nice with this car as the trunk is well sealed...but...I'm pretty sure you're loosing a lot of effeciency and volume because of the small exit. You will have limited increase in volume since you can't physically push the air out. All said, I always loved ID and I think you guys are insane; but I'm always interested in a frankenstein . I'm not sure how much is out there beyond 13" subs but it's always intriguing.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

I did the same but just put a JL 12TW1 on there in a vented box. IB is nice with this car as the trunk is well sealed...but...I'm pretty sure you're loosing a lot of effeciency and volume because of the small exit. You will have limited increase in volume since you can't physically push the air out. All said, I always loved ID and I think you guys are insane; but I'm always interested in a frankenstein . I'm not sure how much is out there beyond 13" subs but it's always intriguing.

No problem with the "exit". It has been proven in IB that the cone can be restricted well more than 50% without any issues, i.e. pretty much no loss in output.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Thanks man, I am pretty excited about it!

What exactly is the back part of the back seat made of? Doesn’t feel like metal, just wondering how I can fasten the mounting plate. Sorry I havent taken my car apart to investigate, just don’t have the time right now, but can I take back seat cushion off and screw into the mounting plate from the back seat side? Any insider info would be helpful as I’m hoping to tackle this this weekend and time is limited.

It is plastic or composite material, no metal. I used about 20 deck screws (the brown ones), making sure not to over tighten them. Make sure you countersink the holes in the baffle, so it pulls tight against the back seat. Secure the top with some angle brackets against the sheet metal. I you want, you can support the bottom of the magnet with some sort of block against the floor, but not needed if you do the baffle right.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Thanks man, I am pretty excited about it!

What exactly is the back part of the back seat made of? Doesn’t feel like metal, just wondering how I can fasten the mounting plate. Sorry I havent taken my car apart to investigate, just don’t have the time right now, but can I take back seat cushion off and screw into the mounting plate from the back seat side? Any insider info would be helpful as I’m hoping to tackle this this weekend and time is limited.

Oh yeah, and sub needs about a week or so of breaking in. Have patience!

[shnaggs]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Oh yeah, and sub needs about a week or so of breaking in. Have patience!

Thanks Kai!

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

No problem with the "exit". It has been proven in IB that the cone can be restricted well more than 50% without any issues, i.e. pretty much no loss in output.

I'd love to see this data sheet.

On another note, also curious about your mobridge. Are you currently running the MOST or bypassed for straight $676 to RCA? If the latter, really interested in a discussion on install.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

I'd love to see this data sheet.

It has nothing to do with IB and I'd love to see this "proof", as well as clarify what exactly has been proven. With that said, portions of the woofer can be covered without noticable SPL ramifications, but how much can be covered is questionable. JBL did it with their EON line, and it was to control dispersion of the woofer, but that's a PA application and a completely different set of parameters than a sub in a trunk.

[kaigoss69]

Well "proof" may have been too strong a term, how about "based on experience of well-respected people in the audio industry"

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Well "proof" may have been too strong a term, how about "based on experience of well-respected people in the audio industry"

Haha, that works. I know the ski pass has been done a ton of times and it works.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Well "proof" may have been too strong a term, how about "based on experience of well-respected people in the audio industry"

Yep, in my IB install I mentioned above the woofers were firing directly into the foam of the back seat without a cutout. Still one of the best sub stages I have ever heard.

[shnaggs]

Well it’s not pretty, but I managed to get this behemoth in the trunk. I don’t have the muscles I used to so it was hard for me to get in there, hence why it’s not centered.

Initial impressions were, wow this sounds like shit! I was in a rush and had to get home to help the wife. After being disappointed all night about struggling with the beast to have it sound shitty, I didn’t sleep at all that night. Then it dawned on me at 3:30am, I never sealed up the holes in the deck!!! Well so that next morning was yesterday, “Easter” so I had to wait till all our family gatherings were finished to go work on the car. Last night I covered all the holes with dynomat. Sounds sooooo much better! I think I was causing the rear deck speakers to distort from the bass in the trunk, pressurizing them from beneath. So further impressions are, this thing gets LOW! I also think that it has too much output for me. I am going to take the next few days to further asses, but the thing hardly moves and the bass over powers the music if I turn my aux bass knob up slightly. Maybe a IDmax 12, or even a 10 would be fine? Wouldn’t mind saving some weight. Anyway, I will check back in a few days after I play around with things.

[shnaggs]

Pics

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Well it’s not pretty, but I managed to get this behemoth in the trunk. I don’t have the muscles I used to so it was hard for me to get in there, hence why it’s not centered.

Initial impressions were, wow this sounds like shit! I was in a rush and had to get home to help the wife. After being disappointed all night about struggling with the beast to have it sound shitty, I didn’t sleep at all that night. Then it dawned on me at 3:30am, I never sealed up the holes in the deck!!! Well so that next morning was yesterday, “Easter” so I had to wait till all our family gatherings were finished to go work on the car. Last night I covered all the holes with dynomat. Sounds sooooo much better! I think I was causing the rear deck speakers to distort from the bass in the trunk, pressurizing them from beneath. So further impressions are, this thing gets LOW! I also think that it has too much output for me. I am going to take the next few days to further asses, but the thing hardly moves and the bass over powers the music if I turn my aux bass knob up slightly. Maybe a IDmax 12, or even a 10 would be fine? Wouldn’t mind saving some weight. Anyway, I will check back in a few days after I play around with things.

Yes, you have to consider what IB means, i.e. Infinite Baffle, with the focus being on Infinite. Imagine if that board you've got your woofer mounted to was, in fact, infinite where there was absolutely no possibility of the rear wave making it's way to the front. Obviously we can't make a baffle that is actually infinite, but we can try to separate the rear from the front as much as possible, which means sealing up everything in the trunk that could allow the rear wave to enter the area in front of the baffle.

And if you have rear deck speakers, they have to be separated from the trunk as well, otherwise it's like putting your mids in the same enclosure as your subs, which you learned.

Also, not to bash your efforts, you need better separation and sealing of your baffle front/rear. I see a lot of gaps and openings there.

The too much output "problem" should be able to be fixed with the gain knob and whatever tuning capabilities your system has

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Well it’s not pretty, but I managed to get this behemoth in the trunk. I don’t have the muscles I used to so it was hard for me to get in there, hence why it’s not centered.

Initial impressions were, wow this sounds like shit! I was in a rush and had to get home to help the wife. After being disappointed all night about struggling with the beast to have it sound shitty, I didn’t sleep at all that night. Then it dawned on me at 3:30am, I never sealed up the holes in the deck!!! Well so that next morning was yesterday, “Easter” so I had to wait till all our family gatherings were finished to go work on the car. Last night I covered all the holes with dynomat. Sounds sooooo much better! I think I was causing the rear deck speakers to distort from the bass in the trunk, pressurizing them from beneath. So further impressions are, this thing gets LOW! I also think that it has too much output for me. I am going to take the next few days to further asses, but the thing hardly moves and the bass over powers the music if I turn my aux bass knob up slightly. Maybe a IDmax 12, or even a 10 would be fine? Wouldn’t mind saving some weight. Anyway, I will check back in a few days after I play around with things.

Like I said, let it break in!!! It'll take a week or two at least. Don't worry too much about the rear deck openings. I sealed my rear deck and I could not tell a difference, honestly. The openings that are there will produce a little bit of cancellation, which can be overcome with more output. Like Emilimie75 said, much more important to look for leaks on the sub baffle, that's where it needs to be sealed well.

What you will also find is that there are pressure "baffles" on the sides of the trunk, behind the OEM amp and the battery. They are there to let air escape when you slam the trunk. These will start to rattle with the sub playing at moderate volume. What I did is I stuffed some material in there to hold the fins open all the time. You can use cardboard or something similar, I used yoga mat material - works well. After that, you should have very little rattles inside the trunk.

You mentioned the sub does not move much, which is what I said you should expect. This means there is very little distortion, and you have a lot of headroom. If you install a smaller sub, like a 12, it will need to move much more which means you will need more power and the sub will play with more distortion. It all depends on your taste as to how much bass is enough. I have found that when I said "this is enough", a short time later I wanted more. It is addicting, especially when it starts to sound really good. Always better to have the extra capacity!

Having said that, I am currently running a 12" old school Infinity sub IB in my Genesis sedan and I really like it. I installed it because I had the sub lying around and I was curious how it would sound. Also, the install was easy because it weighs less than half of the IDMax. My goal was to install something that would complement the OEM sound system. I achieved that goal, and it can get louder if I wish (overpowering the rest of the system). If I had an aftermarket system in this car however, I would not have hesitated to install the IDMax, because it has the ability to go much, much louder. Still, the IDmax sounds better and I may install it sometime down the road. By better I mean it sounds unlike any sub I heard before. It is much more "in your face", without sounding overpowering, or drawing much attention to it, and the bass notes have a certain edge to them that it difficult to describe. You will know it when you hear it!

[shnaggs]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Like I said, let it break in!!! It'll take a week or two at least. Don't worry too much about the rear deck openings. I sealed my rear deck and I could not tell a difference, honestly. The openings that are there will produce a little bit of cancellation, which can be overcome with more output. Like Emilimie75 said, much more important to look for leaks on the sub baffle, that's where it needs to be sealed well.

What you will also find is that there are pressure "baffles" on the sides of the trunk, behind the OEM amp and the battery. They are there to let air escape when you slam the trunk. These will start to rattle with the sub playing at moderate volume. What I did is I stuffed some material in there to hold the fins open all the time. You can use cardboard or something similar, I used yoga mat material - works well. After that, you should have very little rattles inside the trunk.

You mentioned the sub does not move much, which is what I said you should expect. This means there is very little distortion, and you have a lot of headroom. If you install a smaller sub, like a 12, it will need to move much more which means you will need more power and the sub will play with more distortion. It all depends on your taste as to how much bass is enough. I have found that when I said "this is enough", a short time later I wanted more. It is addicting, especially when it starts to sound really good. Always better to have the extra capacity!

Having said that, I am currently running a 12" old school Infinity sub IB in my Genesis sedan and I really like it. I installed it because I had the sub lying around and I was curious how it would sound. Also, the install was easy because it weighs less than half of the IDMax. My goal was to install something that would complement the OEM sound system. I achieved that goal, and it can get louder if I wish (overpowering the rest of the system). If I had an aftermarket system in this car however, I would not have hesitated to install the IDMax, because it has the ability to go much, much louder. Still, the IDmax sounds better and I may install it sometime down the road. By better I mean it sounds unlike any sub I heard before. It is much more "in your face", without sounding overpowering, or drawing much attention to it, and the bass notes have a certain edge to them that it difficult to describe. You will know it when you hear it!

Are you referring to sealing the baffle to the rear seat, or sealing the baffle around the perimeter??? I did not seal anything except for the sub face to the baffle. I kinda assumed that the back seat was sealed enough that I woulda only need to fasten the plate baffle to the seat, and that the fabric on the back of the seat would be sufficient for sealing to the baffle plate.

As of right now it sounds pretty decent, but if I crank it up I’m getting what sounds like cone distortion, which I know it is not, cause this freakin beast barely moves!!! This distortion sound was way worse before I blocked all the holes in the trunk. Maybe I will try to seal up around the back seat with some backing rod and see if that helps.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Are you referring to sealing the baffle to the rear seat, or sealing the baffle around the perimeter??? I did not seal anything except for the sub face to the baffle. I kinda assumed that the back seat was sealed enough that I woulda only need to fasten the plate baffle to the seat, and that the fabric on the back of the seat would be sufficient for sealing to the baffle plate.

As of right now it sounds pretty decent, but if I crank it up I’m getting what sounds like cone distortion, which I know it is not, cause this freakin beast barely moves!!! This distortion sound was way worse before I blocked all the holes in the trunk. Maybe I will try to seal up around the back seat with some backing rod and see if that helps.

Distortion sound could be many things...

- It could be distortion coming from the amp. Make sure the signal is clean.
- it could be the voice coils are connected incorrectly. Check the connections.
- It could be distortion from the speaker itself, perhaps a manufacturing defect. Play each voice coil separately to see if you can isolate the noise. If it is a problem with the voice coil, should be more audible from the trunk.
- It could be coming from some panel vibration near the sub or the rear deck

Try to take a video if you cannot find the issue.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Don't worry too much about the rear deck openings. I sealed my rear deck and I could not tell a difference, honestly. The openings that are there will produce a little bit of cancellation, which can be overcome with more output.

To echo, I did not seal anything on the rear deck, rear speakers continue to play (high passed), and still sounds great. I believe most that have done IB here are in a similar boat... no extra work to rear deck.

But you do want to make sure the baffle makes a nice tight seal against back of seat. I used a bit of weather stripping around the baffle for this purpose.

Good luck and enjoy!!

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

To echo, I did not seal anything on the rear deck, rear speakers continue to play (high passed), and still sounds great. I believe most that have done IB here are in a similar boat... no extra work to rear deck.

But you do want to make sure the baffle makes a nice tight seal against back of seat. I used a bit of weather stripping around the baffle for this purpose.

Good luck and enjoy!!

Looks good man. One thing I would advise against however is using the weatherstripping seal. Much better to mount the baffle flat against the back seat. The cloth will seal, and you will have a much wider sealing surface. The weatherstripping will leave a gap between the surfaces and there is a chance that air can leak in the corners, and on top. Also, from an acoustical standpoint, you want the sub and baffle to be mechanically fused with the back seat, which will add strength and rigidity to the baffle. If you have a rubber piece in between, it allows for the sub baffle board to move independently, reducing output. Better to remove the rubber seal!!!

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Looks good man. One thing I would advise against however is using the weatherstripping seal. Much better to mount the baffle flat against the back seat. The cloth will seal, and you will have a much wider sealing surface. The weatherstripping will leave a gap between the surfaces and there is a chance that air can leak in the corners, and on top. Also, from an acoustical standpoint, you want the sub and baffle to be mechanically fused with the back seat, which will add strength and rigidity to the baffle. If you have a rubber piece in between, it allows for the sub baffle board to move independently, reducing output. Better to remove the rubber seal!!!

Fair point, thanks.

I used weather seal thinking it's good enough to keep moisture out, should work here too... but you raise valid points.

Trying not to remove unnecessarily, but next time I remove will keep that in mind.

Thx!