[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Make sure you get a new gasket for the connection between the Throttle Body & the Charge Pipe.

Put some oil on the gasket before you install it.

I have the Cobb CP and can attest to it. It fits perfectly and I have no issues.

Gasket? You must be referring to the O ring right?

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Check the two bolts that secure the rack to the subframe. They should be at around 45# torque.

Yeah I suspected those two E bolts to be loose when I first bought the car. I periodically check them and they are have always been snug. Thanks though

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Bentley repair manual states to check it with engine off as the level can raise 10mm when engine at normal operating temps.

Attachment 2335083

Thanks Wolf that’s good info man

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by feuer

Good advise although I think that won’t cause vibrations, I would check the power steering pump mounting bolts, especially the front one on the oil pan.

Mounting bolts! I will look into those. I know that when I replaced the drive belt 3 weeks ago I grabbed the power steering pump by the pulley and tried very hard to yank it back and forth to see if anything was loose and it wouldn’t budge. I will recheck it. I remember researching this issue in other forums and although it is not a common problem there were some cases of people reporting the same issue. Many trips were made to the stealerships with no success for solutions except for 1 if I remember correctly and the power steering pump had to be replaced to resolve the issue. I just think that is so bogus this vehicle has only 80k miles. Bought it when it had 70k and it was having a power steering issue. I’ve never owned a car that needed a power steering pump even with 200+k miles. A leak maybe which just required toping off every so often. Not a pump!

Anyways I’m getting off topic. This discussion would be get a lot more visibility if it had it’s own thread.

[Salzamani]

Ok here is an update. I got under the car today and pullled off the bottom tray(splash shield) found that there was a brownish fluid collecting right under the charge pipe area at the bottom and so I popped off the retaining clip to the charge pipe at the bottom and separated the pipe from the intercooler sure enough another drop landed on the ground next to me. there was a layer of oil that was collecting inside too. When looking at this portion of the pipe for evidence of where the leak could be coming from I would say it looks like the joint where the red arrow is in the diagram which ran down to where the green arrow is and would drop from there to the bottom tray.. so question; is the oil collecting in the charge pipe normal? What is normal amount and what is too much?

[feuer]

Is is normal. I have two n54, 85k and 168k, both sip oil from where you have the green arrow. If you want to remedy that will require at least an oil catch can or different PCV system.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Ok here is an update. I got under the car today and pullled off the bottom tray(splash shield) found that there was a brownish fluid collecting right under the charge pipe area at the bottom and so I popped off the retaining clip to the charge pipe at the bottom and separated the pipe from the intercooler sure enough another drop landed on the ground next to me. there was a layer of oil that was collecting inside too. When looking at this portion of the pipe for evidence of where the leak could be coming from I would say it looks like the joint where the red arrow is in the diagram which ran down to where the green arrow is and would drop from there to the bottom tray.. so question; is the oil collecting in the charge pipe normal? What is normal amount and what is too much?

You need a catch can. Once you get one and an upgraded PCV valve & cap, this problem will cease to exist

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Yeah I suspected those two E bolts to be loose when I first bought the car. I periodically check them and they are have always been snug. Thanks though

You need a 16mm wrench to hold the nut on top

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by feuer

Is is normal. I have two n54, 85k and 168k, both sip oil from where you have the green arrow. If you want to remedy that will require at least an oil catch can or different PCV system.

Oh ok thanks. Before the 335i I had a 535i and that did it too. But it never made it to the bottoms tray. Do you run a catch can? Which model did you go with? PCV system change too ha?

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You need a catch can. Once you get one and an upgraded PCV valve & cap, this problem will cease to exist

Hmmm I remember looking into a catch can before for a different purpose. It was after I had walnut blasted the intakes and I thought there has gotta be a way to stop this carbon build up on the intake valves and so many people said a catch can and yet so many would say it doesn’t work at least effectively enough to truly stop or reduce significantly the build up on the intakes. What’s your take on that? Can a catch can truly stop the need for walnutblasting the intakes?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Oh ok thanks. Before the 335i I had a 535i and that did it too. But it never made it to the bottoms tray. Do you run a catch can? Which model did you go with? PCV system change too ha?

It will vary from so many different things: how good is the PCV valve, the turbo seal, the IC o-ring, the oil itself, how car is driven and etc......

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by feuer

It will vary from so many different things: how good is the PCV valve, the turbo seal, the IC o-ring, the oil itself, how car is driven and etc......

I get my oil from FCP. How can I pass right? I’ve been using Liqui Moly 5W40.

What does IC stand for?

What would be an oil that is any better for the turbos and yet passes less oil?

What do you use?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Hmmm I remember looking into a catch can before for a different purpose. It was after I had walnut blasted the intakes and I thought there has gotta be a way to stop this carbon build up on the intake valves and so many people said a catch can and yet so many would say it doesn't work at least effectively enough to truly stop or reduce significantly the build up on the intakes. What's your take on that? Can a catch can truly stop the need for walnutblasting the intakes?

My take on it, is that probably every 30 to 36,000 miles you should absolutely do an intake cleaning. If you are going to be on this platform or any platform with a Direct Injection based engine, you should invest into a walnut blaster kit.

The catch can stops oil from being in the FMIC & what not. It also "reduces" the build up on the intake valves, in between intervals of walnut blasting.

Some say they can just go longer in between cleaning the intake valves. I don't. I just make it easier to clean them because they have less sh@t on them. The engine might run a little better too as a result of thinking in this manner.

The only way to get rid of 98-99% of the oil buildup on the intake valves & keep the DI setup is to do the RB port hole, plug DIY and add 2 catch cans.

[Salzamani]

Sorry still a little too young.

What is FMIC?

What is RB?

I know this is not do it yourself. What is DIY?

Thank you!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

I get my oil from FCP. How can I pass right? I’ve been using Liqui Moly 5W40.

What does IC stand for?

What would be an oil that is any better for the turbos and yet passes less oil?

What do you use?

IC - intercooler. I use either Shell Rotella T6 or Castrol Edge EF, both 0w-40

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by feuer

IC - intercooler. I use either Shell Rotella T6 or Castrol Edge EF, both 0w-40

And you are convinced those oils pass less?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

And you are convinced those oils pass less?

No. I believe that I was very clear in above post on reasons why there is oil in the IC

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Sorry still a little too young.

What is FMIC?

What is RB?

I know this is not do it yourself. What is DIY?

Thank you!

FMIC - Front Mounted Inner Cooler

RB - Rob Beck

DIY - Do It Yourself

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Sorry still a little too young.

What is FMIC?

What is RB?

I know this is not do it yourself. What is DIY?

Thank you!

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1293291

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Hmmm I remember looking into a catch can before for a different purpose. It was after I had walnut blasted the intakes and I thought there has gotta be a way to stop this carbon build up on the intake valves and so many people said a catch can and yet so many would say it doesn’t work at least effectively enough to truly stop or reduce significantly the build up on the intakes. What’s your take on that? Can a catch can truly stop the need for walnutblasting the intakes?

At the very least, get :

1) upgraded PCV valve & cap
2) BMS or Mishimoto Catch Can
3) PCV vent hose & valve


https://www.burgertuning.com/product...SAAEgKx3_D_BwE


https://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv


https://www.rbturbo.com/products/acc...e-screw-on-cap


https://www.rbturbo.com/products/acc...-pcv-vent-hose

Replace 1 & 3 every 50,000 miles

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

At the very least, get :

1) upgraded PCV valve & cap
2) BMS or Mishimoto Catch Can
3) PCV vent hose & valve


https://www.burgertuning.com/product...SAAEgKx3_D_BwE


https://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv


https://www.rbturbo.com/products/acc...e-screw-on-cap


https://www.rbturbo.com/products/acc...-pcv-vent-hose

Replace 1 & 3 every 50,000 miles

I didn’t get notifications for the last 2 days. Thank you for clarifying everything. You went through a lot of trouble gathering all these links and DYI videos. It will be appreciated. Thank you! I’ve done 2 walnut blasting jobs myself and it is a lot of work. This makes the N54 that much better. Not to mention the benefits of keeping the oil where it’s suppose to be and not cheating your cooling and performance. Absolutely brilliant!