[David1]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Depending on you're point of reference.
You want to turn the wrench towards the engine to loosen.
Righty-tighty lefty-loosey.

The more I look at it, I think you mean turn the jam nut towards the fender to loosen.

[5soko]

Mr.5 like i mentioned my thinking can be wrong in that thought i had. thanks for clearing it up, but i agree if the NUT is tight on the actuator arm adjustment, the ROD itself should not move.

from what i kno the ROD moving or lossening wasnt the issue, the Actuator not pulling in the Act. ROD was the issue. or just a bad actuator.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by David1

The more I look at it, I think you mean turn the jam nut towards the fender to loosen.

That depends on whether the wrench is above the rod or below.
If the wrench is above the rod and you are loosening the nut from the engine compartment then you are turning the wrench towards the engine.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by 5soko335i

Mr.5 like i mentioned my thinking can be wrong in that thought i had. thanks for clearing it up, but i agree if the NUT is tight on the actuator arm adjustment, the ROD itself should not move.

from what i kno the ROD moving or lossening wasnt the issue, the Actuator not pulling in the Act. ROD was the issue. or just a bad actuator.

We'll see.
If I get the ticking back and everything is in the same position as today then I will stand corrected.
Let's hope we never find out.

[5soko]

hahaha, sounds good. Def. seems like the best way to go. no1 should doubt this works, its just common sense.

[sambonator]

As always, great work Mr.5!

[1clean335i]

For those doubting Mr.5, ill drop in my 2 cents here... We all know the SIB is out which says to replace the wastegate actuators for the rattling if the programming doesnt fix it. From my experience, as much as one turn on the actuators can determine it the wastegates will rattle or not. That one turn can be due to the extra play in the wastegate from normal wear and tear. BMW doesnt want the techs to adjust the wastegates there for they have to replace them. After replacing them, the new ones have to be adjusted also. Similar to the way Mr.5 did his except it is a little more complicated and involves a special tool to measure the rod angles with the wastegate open/closed and such.

I too believe that the actuators cant simply turn out of adjustment because the 10mm nut is locked in place. The other end of the rod that connects to the actual wastegate can not spin as long as it is connected to the wastegate so if the 10mm nut is tight, there is no way the rod can spin either. The noise is due to the small amount of play from the wastegate and the minor adjustment is what quiets the wastegates. Now whether or not the wastegate actuators are actually failing, my opinion is no.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by 1clean335i

I too believe that the actuators cant simply turn out of adjustment because the 10mm nut is locked in place. The other end of the rod that connects to the actual wastegate can not spin as long as it is connected to the wastegate so if the 10mm nut is tight, there is no way the rod can spin either. The noise is due to the small amount of play from the wastegate and the minor adjustment is what quiets the wastegates. No wether of not the wastegate actuators are actually failing, my opinion is no.

Thanks for your input.
Again, we'll see if I'm right if the distance of the threads get's longer over the next few months.

I'm just so glad that the noise is gone!
I went to lunch today and it was so nice to listen to a clean engine!

I think to celibrate, I'm going to eliminate my X pipe.

[e90AW335i]

Another awesome contribution by Mr. 5

[oc24]

Please excuse my ignorance, but if you have a MSD81 car (March 08 or later build), which comes with 29.2+, does that mean you cannot develop this wastegate ticking issue?

[1clean335i]

Originally Posted by slubu

Please excuse my ignorance, but if you have a MSD81 car (March 08 or later build), which comes with 29.2+, does that mean you cannot develop this wastegate ticking issue?

No... Part of the repair procedure is to update the car with the newest progman which is v31 now... I havent seen a car with new software fix the issue...

[5soko]

1clean335i your the man!

[dadasracecar]

Originally Posted by RBBMWE46M3

looks to me that there is enough throw in the adj. rod to keep the wastgate closed all the time elimianting lag!!!! hmmmm????

and boost creep to complete destruction....

[nucleus]

I think that there are two factors here.

One is wear on the wastegate mating surfaces, that metal gets very hot, and as the wastegate slams shut the metal wear and deforms little by little.

Two, the actuator arm gets hot too, and likely is stretching a bit over time.

Nucleus

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by 1clean335i

No... Part of the repair procedure is to update the car with the newest progman which is v31 now... I havent seen a car with new software fix the issue...

But, the new program does keep the wastegates slightly open at idle and deceleration.
The only reason why the ticking would still be there after the new program has been flashed is either the actuator really is faulty, or if when the wastegate is in the "slightly open" position, the wastegate is still hitting the seal.

[Mr. 5]

I forgot about this message:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...38&postcount=1

I stand corrected about saying that both wastegates were closed during idle with the pre 29.2 program.
I guess only one wastegate is closed at idle.

Hmmm, I wonder which one that is?
No wonder there is no need to adjust the front wastegate.

[1clean335i]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

]
No wonder there is no need to adjust the front wastegate.

Spot on!

[iScream]

forgive my ignorance here, but how the hell does keeping a wastegate open solve the rattle in the first place? Is this simply an issue of resonance/vibration at lower RPMs, much in the same way that mufflers sometimes rattle at shutdown?

If so, then this whole 29.2 thing is such a frickin' rig it makes me sick. I bet the guy who got the idea for that "solution" thought he was so smart... thanks a lot, Dieter!

[David1]

I am soooooo happy! My rattle is gone now!

First off I have had my rattle since 700 miles on my e92 May 07 build and I have 7900 miles on the car now. Mine only rattled on a hot start at idle (not the injector noise) and hot idle after driving the car hard. The past month I started to get the flutter also. I always thought it was the rear and my dealer has been waiting for a software progman that is good, so I have lived with the noise. My dealer has even had cars come in needing an update for something else and then had the rattle when the car didn't have it before! After reading this I had my daughter blip the throttle to make the noise, then the next time I put some weight on the rod (long crow bar)when she blipped the throttle again and no noise, so rear rattle verified. I then let the car cool off and did Mr. 5's adjustment. The only tool I had small enough was a mini set of slip pliers. I was able to get 1/3rd of a rotation and gave up. The smallest wrench I have is a 6millimeter and it's to big for the notch. It must be a 5 or 4 millimeter and I will figure that out another day. Thightened the jam nut and went for a ride. Drove it hard and got it nice and hot no rattle at idle or blipping the throttle! I can still hear a slight flutter as the revs drop around 2k rpm, but I only hear that when the car is in the garage next to the wall. Drove to work this morning and still no rattle after 100 hard miles. Once I get something that will get a better grip on the rod slot I will give it another 1/2 turn, but for now I am good.

Thank you Mr. 5 for confirming my suspicion that this rod is adjustable. I wonder how much the heat is effecting the rod adjustments. Or is the wastgate seat going through an initial wear/break in and then you just need an adjustment.

[1clean335i]

Originally Posted by David1

It must be a 5 or 4 millimeter and I will figure that out another day.

it's a 4mm but a 5mm will work since your just holding it in place.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by 1clean335i

it's a 4mm but a 5mm will work since your just holding it in place.

You've been sitting on this info. Damn you!

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I understand what you're saying now. You are correct. If the actuator is failing due to the actuator not being able to hold the vacuum then this will not work.
But I'll tell you about my experience.
I already had the actuators replaced and luckily it was before the new program came out.
The dealer told me that the actuators were failing. IMO, the actuators were not failing. The same thing happened with that actuator as with what's happening with this one. The rod loosens over time.
I'm 99.999% sure that I could have just adjusted the rod and it would have been solved very quickly.

Cool, my actuators had no "pull" thus failing, maybe our wastegates were not properly adjusted from the get-go, good to see it's working.