[acdHQK713K]

Originally Posted by enrita

Redline D6 ATF is a perfect match (confirmed by ZF and Redline) with much higher shearing point, can withstand much higher temps and works as well great cold. I am putting this into my new rebuilded Trans.

What color is the redline? Red? Kinda wish there was a good alternative that was stock oil color for warranty purposes.

[bowboy]

Sorry to revive this thread but I just saw this post as I recently bought a used 2007 335i (CPO). If the dealer will not change the fluids on your transmission will they still consider it "under warranty" if you have the fluids changed by another authorized BMW mechanic?

[enrita]

Originally Posted by bowboy

Sorry to revive this thread but I just saw this post as I recently bought a used 2007 335i (CPO). If the dealer will not change the fluids on your transmission will they still consider it "under warranty" if you have the fluids changed by another authorized BMW mechanic?

well they dont need to know you changed the fluid...

[enrita]

Originally Posted by Stangorang

What color is the redline? Red? Kinda wish there was a good alternative that was stock oil color for warranty purposes.

no idea , i have not seen the color of it.

[CalgaryX3]

Okay...against my better judgement, bumping an old thread here.

We have an ultra low mileage 335i with the ZF auto. Since the vehicle is 5 years old, is there a *time frame* when the fluid should be changed (kinda like brake fluid)?

I'm considering just doing a drain and refill (not a filter/pan change) since the car is five years old, but its not even close to 30000, 60000, or even 100000miles.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Asif

[taranonline]

Went to my dealer asked for AT oil change. He said we are against opening of the AT. He said they had to replace a seal on 5 series vehicle and put in new oil, transmission never worked.

He further said they have cars done over 200K KMS doing fine. Also he mentioned they change AT oil only on M-series vehicles.

[Orb]

Hard use, ZF recommends changing the oil and filter at 60,000-70,000 KM and 100,000 KM under normal use. Do not use anything but ZF safegard 6 oil. The oil is made by shell and is rebranded for BMW.

Originally Posted by CalgaryX3

Okay...against my better judgement, bumping an old thread here.

We have an ultra low mileage 335i with the ZF auto. Since the vehicle is 5 years old, is there a *time frame* when the fluid should be changed (kinda like brake fluid)?

I'm considering just doing a drain and refill (not a filter/pan change) since the car is five years old, but its not even close to 30000, 60000, or even 100000miles.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Asif

[CalgaryX3]

Thanks for the insight folks. So with the low mileage, even though the vehicle is five years old, your recommendation is *not* to change the tranny oil?

A

[bv1]

Originally Posted by CalgaryX3

Thanks for the insight folks. So with the low mileage, even though the vehicle is five years old, your recommendation is *not* to change the tranny oil?

A

For sure get the level checked. 5 years is a long time. Even though I didn't have any noticeable leaks from my trans I had shifting issuers due to 1 liter low on fluid.

I think the fluid may be lifetime but you need to make sure it's all there periodically.

[ppatel223]

Originally Posted by roozie2001

changin tranny fluid at 20k is ridiculous and completely unnecessary. i guess some of u guys have money to throw away. more power to you. Hope i can be that care free someday. As for me im all for a balance of keeping my car running well and saving my money. 7500miles for an oil change, 45-50k for tranny fluid and 93 shell octaine and im good to go.

+1

[chrisbmwcy]

My BMW specialist said that i shall change my auto transmission oil on my next service which is close to 100.000 miles. Everything runs smooth but i believe that it will ,make my transmisson last longer

[rismo]

Hi Enrita,

Where did you receive that confirmation from? Very interesting, ZF was stating to me that only the default BMW/ZF should be used... I also asked them about the Redline oil...

Cheers,

R

[love2drive]

Originally Posted by rismo123

Hi Enrita,

Where did you receive that confirmation from? Very interesting, ZF was stating to me that only the default BMW/ZF should be used... I also asked them about the Redline oil...

Cheers,

R

Same question here. My understanding is that if the fluid is ZF TE ML 11B approved, then it is compatible with seals and materials and won't mess anything up. However, there are better and worse fluids on the list in terms of how they will hold up over time, synthetic vs mineral oil, etc. I don't see where Redline is TE ML 11B approved, just Redline's website saying it's a popular substitute for LG 6. Might be though.

As for me, I'm doing this soon using Mercon SP. It's the same as the ZF-recommended ZF Lifetime 6 fluid, mineral oil based, and is $4.50/quart. It may not be as great as the synthetics, but it's going to be better than what's in there now at 30K miles. Well, and I have the usual leak at the mechatronic sleeve (Note: Replace the mechatronic sleeve when you do the work, it's $15).

Turkeybaster, did a lot of research on approved fluids, see post #47: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=363648&page=3

Best DIY I've found is here, from a 17 year old http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=538296

[nailer335]

so the general opinion of Redline D4 AT fluid is negative?

ECS's website has a transmission service package that I was going to get that uses Redline D4 and I will probably do it unless people have had bad experiences with it obviously...

[MrQuickR1]

I have a question or 2.
First of all, I have an 07 e90 328i
The trans shifting feels all screwed up. Like down shifting or upshifting, it takes too long, like it isn't synchronized with driver input and engine speeds.
It's not ALL the time but most of the time. Not in every gear either, mostly the lower gears up and down.

So I was thinking maybe the fluid is low?
Than I read that may as well change it out.
Than I read that you want to use the same fluid to top it off and not use a cocktail mix in the old lifetime with a little say Dexron 6 from walmart.
Than I read that you shouldn't "flush" it, just change it and refill it.
So it raises a question....
If I were to just change it and not flush it. there will be say a few liters of the lifetime crap still in the lines and torque converter right? so if I put it an Amsoil fluid, it will mix with the BMW oil and still form a "cocktail" of fluids.
Wouldn't this be harmful as it was said?
Some have said flushing is bad cause you are forcing old dirty crap through tiny little veins and cavities that can clog it up and than cause failure soon after.

What do I do than?
I want it changed, I would want a cheaper but better "synthetic" oil in there, but mixing is bad and flushing is bad.

[M3 Eater]

I used this....http://www.globalautoparts.biz/pentosin_ATF.html

drain and fill. Drive for a week, drain an fill again. Should clean out 85% of the fluid while still leaving some original fluids for environmental purposes. BMW did my mechatronic sleeve under warranty, and drained and filled at about 40K. I did it again about 85K, checked and topped off fluid with an extra 3/4 qt of fresh fluid at 95K. I had to tilt the car to get the extra in but I read that just as much as an extra qt can help keep the 400whp+ cars shifting smoothly in D, even after a few paddle shifting logs. Since I put the extra fluid in, car has been shifting like butter.

[acdHQK713K]

Proper fill procedure: http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/6h...fluidlevel.pdf

[MrQuickR1]

Originally Posted by M3 Eater

I used this....http://www.globalautoparts.biz/pentosin_ATF.html

drain and fill. Drive for a week, drain an fill again. Should clean out 85% of the fluid while still leaving some original fluids for environmental purposes. BMW did my mechatronic sleeve under warranty, and drained and filled at about 40K. I did it again about 85K, checked and topped off fluid with an extra 3/4 qt of fresh fluid at 95K. I had to tilt the car to get the extra in but I read that just as much as an extra qt can help keep the 400whp+ cars shifting smoothly in D, even after a few paddle shifting logs. Since I put the extra fluid in, car has been shifting like butter.

That's the thing, I have researched so much every damn day that I am burning out and causing my own confusion. This ATF you use, I believe will not be for my trans as I have the GM trans and you have the good trans lol.
I need Dexron 6 but looking for lifetime or a high quality that people have used with no issues at a decent price.

I appreciate the filling tip as well, seems if it is too hot you can think it's full when opening the filler plug and fluid comes out. Seems so tedious the way things are done these days.

[rbaldwin28]

If your shifts are quick when the motor is cold then they slow down or have long pauses when at operating temps (215 deg) I would change the oil but not the pan or filter. I changed mine when this began and used pentosin with great results. Shifts are very quick even at operating temps and my gas milage went up .2 MPG. Most people probably will not need to change it but if you push your car like I do it is a must. You will know if you needed it or not the first time you drive it on new fluid with the car warmed up. Good Luck.

[MrQuickR1]

Originally Posted by rbaldwin28

If your shifts are quick when the motor is cold then they slow down or have long pauses when at operating temps (215 deg) I would change the oil but not the pan or filter. I changed mine when this began and used pentosin with great results. Shifts are very quick even at operating temps and my gas milage went up .2 MPG. Most people probably will not need to change it but if you push your car like I do it is a must. You will know if you needed it or not the first time you drive it on new fluid with the car warmed up. Good Luck.

And this is ok to add to the already lifetime oil that's hung up in the torque converter and lines?
Obviously I can't use the same fluid on the 328 but thinking of throwing in the redline D6

EDIT: I do realize coming from a dealer it's not the most reliable unfortunately.
I called parts to see if I can get some lifetime to top off in case my level is low. He said yea but bring a container and they'll fill it. As I read before, I expected that and don't mind.
However I did ask if it is suggested to change it, he said not really, they have checked the trans oil at 100k mile cars and it was still ok.
Again adding to my indecisive nature of if I should drain out 4 liters and add back fresh 4...would it help at all, or just top it off or just do a full change with filter and flush.

[MrQuickR1]

OK, just got word back from Doug at Turner Motorsport, as he replied to my email if he can get the OEM lifetime fluid. Here is his response....

Billy,

We can get you the fluid, but please keep in mind, when filling the auto transmission with fluid it must be hooked up to a computer to monitor fluid levels. You cannot simply fill it up and go. Auto trans fluid must be installed at a very closely monitored temperature to assure proper fluid level. Definitely not a “DIY” procedure.

Link to fluid:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-29...b-1-liter.aspx


-Doug


Douglas Mahar
Sales Team Manager | Turner Motorsport
800-280-6966 ext 114

/ // Parts & Performance for BMWs
www.TurnerMotorsport.com

[acdHQK713K]

Originally Posted by MrQuickR1

OK, just got word back from Doug at Turner Motorsport, as he replied to my email if he can get the OEM lifetime fluid. Here is his response....

Billy,

We can get you the fluid, but please keep in mind, when filling the auto transmission with fluid it must be hooked up to a computer to monitor fluid levels. You cannot simply fill it up and go. Auto trans fluid must be installed at a very closely monitored temperature to assure proper fluid level. Definitely not a “DIY” procedure.

Link to fluid:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-29...b-1-liter.aspx


-Doug


Douglas Mahar
Sales Team Manager | Turner Motorsport
800-280-6966 ext 114

/ // Parts & Performance for BMWs
www.TurnerMotorsport.com

A scan tool plugged into the OBD port can apparently read the Trans temp. The BT cannot do this and I have not seen anyone show how to do this via INPA.

You can't read oil level through the OBD port as far as I know.

According to multiple sources the oil temp needs to be around 30C to 35C to achieve the proper level.

As long as you fill at the proper temp it really should be an issue.