[///Matt]

sorry for all the periods in the drawings.. when I used spaces, it collapsed the drawing into nothingness

[calvino]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

no, sir, don't worry. I done it right! lol.

The halo's have a power wire coming in from the Footwell module, and a ground wire back out, to a common ground connector. I just changed which power wire was powering the halo.

Most of the lights on the E90 are Pulse-width modulated. This means that the control module, in this case the Footwell, or FRM, supplies a constant voltage of 12v, but switches it on and off very rapidly. The longer the voltage is left ON before it switches off, the brighter the light gets.

Basic Lesson:
Pulse width modulation refers to supplying voltage and then removing it, over and over again, with a varying length of ON time.

Frequency is measured in Hertz, or Hz. one Hz is one cycle in one second. A cycle in this case is defined as switching the light on, then back off.

Let's say that the PWM of the DRL runs at 100Hz (this is just a guess). That means it gets switched on and back off 100 times per second.

Follow me?

Now, in 1/100th of a second, if you looked at the voltage signal going into the bulb, it would look like this:

12v _________
.....|...................|...................
.....|...................|...................
.....|...................|...................
0v..|...................|__________

This is ONE cycle, occuring in 1/100th of a second, or 100 times every second. This "Duty-Cycle" is the amount of time during this cycle that the voltage was ON, or the time it was at 12v. In my illustration, we have a 50% duty cycle, because the voltage is at 12v for half of the cycle.

If we INCREASE the duty cycle, to 75%, it would look like this:
12v ______________
.....|.............................|..........
.....|.............................|..........
.....|.............................|..........
0v..|.............................|_____

The voltage is on 75% of the cycle. This would result in the bulb being 25% BRIGHTER than when it was at 50% duty cycle. If you have a 100% duty cycle, or the voltage is CONSTANTLY at 12v, then the bulb would be operating at it's FULL intensity, as bright as it could go with 12v applied.

End of lesson!

Then the flash-to-pass high beams are on in DRL mode, they have a 50% duty cycle. When you flash them, they go to 100%. At 50% duty cycle, the HALO bulbs are really too dim to be worth having on in daylight. When I flash the bright's, and the Halo goes to 100%, it looks GREAT. unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a way I can get the signal to STAY at 100%, since it's a programming issue, and it's not designed to be variable.

Matt

[B[/B]

ok I did not get it but what if you have LED angel lights like the PIAA?? does it work ?

[///Matt]

ok, the wire mod I tried WORKS. it IS USABLE.

It just isn't bright enough for me to want to leave it that way. I didn't get an error message until I flashed the brights on and off several times, so i don't know exactly what the error was.

If you have leds, it will be the same, but it MAY be a little brighter, it just depends on the voltage needed for the specific LED's to operate at full intensity.

Matt

[///Matt]

Ok, so I wired my light to use the Halo for the turn signal, but that didn't work out either, because the turn signal ALSO runs at 50% until it starts to flash, so AGAIN, the halo is too dim to be worth while.

[jayz4]

Keep up the good work ///MATT!!! We all have faith in you! Our Angel Eyes will thank you!

[///Matt]

Looks like the only way to do this will be with a new power source for the halos, and there is no simple way to have the turn signal OFF while the headlights are on. I'm going to look into some drastic programming measures, but that definitely won't be available to the general public. =(

[calvino]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

Looks like the only way to do this will be with a new power source for the halos, and there is no simple way to have the turn signal OFF while the headlights are on. I'm going to look into some drastic programming measures, but that definitely won't be available to the general public. =(

I was thinking about that a new power source, but why do I need to turn the signal off went the headlights are on, I can't have two power sources? look:

[///Matt]

That'll work just fine, except you ONLY need to add a power wire, it's commonly grounded internally to the headlight.

So JUST add a new power source to the correct b+ INPUT wire, and you'll have your halo's on when you want.

I want to turn the turn signal bulbs OFF until I hit the blinker, so that when my headlights are on, I will have Xenons and Halo's, but no blinker..until it blinks.

[diesel007]

Can't you just remove the blinker bulbs?

[///Matt]

sure, but then you get a warning, and the other two blinkers on that side blink super fast. JDM! WHOO! lol

[calvino]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

That'll work just fine, except you ONLY need to add a power wire, it's commonly grounded internally to the headlight.

So JUST add a new power source to the correct b+ INPUT wire, and you'll have your halo's on when you want.

I want to turn the turn signal bulbs OFF until I hit the blinker, so that when my headlights are on, I will have Xenons and Halo's, but no blinker..until it blinks.

what do you mean to the b+ INPUT wire?? and btw do you remember what color is of the + wire and the - wire of the angel lights ? what is the power consumition of the angel lights anyways? I have piaa led can I add the power wire to the intirior outlets? so it turns on went the car turn's on or there is a easier way? thank you matt :rocks:

[///Matt]

Calvino, if you're not experienced at least a little in wiring, I don't think you should attempt this. If dont wrong, you can cause expensive problems.
As I said, you DON'T need to ADD a ground wire to the halo's. It's already grounded after the bulb. applying power to the appropritate wire is ALL you need to do to turn the bulb on.

It's pin 1 on the RIGHT headlight, should be the same on the left. It's GREEN with a BLACK tracer, I beleive.

[diesel007]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

sure, but then you get a warning, and the other two blinkers on that side blink super fast. JDM! WHOO! lol

[calvino]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

Calvino, if you're not experienced at least a little in wiring, I don't think you should attempt this. If dont wrong, you can cause expensive problems.
As I said, you DON'T need to ADD a ground wire to the halo's. It's already grounded after the bulb. applying power to the appropritate wire is ALL you need to do to turn the bulb on.

It's pin 1 on the RIGHT headlight, should be the same on the left. It's GREEN with a BLACK tracer, I beleive.

ok got it so I don't need the ground wire all I need is a power source , were I can get that power from? so they turn on went I turn on the car I want the halo to be allways on that it thanks for the imput matt

[///Matt]

Well... you're GOING to have a warning, just know this ahead of time. I don't know if it will be constant, or brief like the xenons...

I'll have to look into what's an appropriate power source for the halo. So you DON'T plan to install a switch? just CONSTANT on when the car is on?

[calvino]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

Well... you're GOING to have a warning, just know this ahead of time. I don't know if it will be constant, or brief like the xenons...

I'll have to look into what's an appropriate power source for the halo. So you DON'T plan to install a switch? just CONSTANT on when the car is on?

a warning light? F*** ! :mad: why? that sucks man! why bmw as to be a pain in the ass wen't comes to mods those german engineers

I'm not sure if I going to install a switch, I don't care having the halos on all the time so

[///Matt]

well...

I want you to also understand, I'm in NO WAY responsible for what you do. I can provide you with some information, but you do anything you do at your own risk, and your own responsibility. If something happens... SORRY! not my problem. ok?

[calvino]

Originally Posted by ///Matt

well...

I want you to also understand, I'm in NO WAY responsible for what you do. I can provide you with some information, but you do anything you do at your own risk, and your own responsibility. If something happens... SORRY! not my problem. ok?

I put a temporary positive cable to the batt terminal and it works ( see pic) but like you said the warning light turn on there must be a way to go around it! it looks great !!! and now Im all excited to make it work :rocks: yea matt I resposible for any problems that happens ok, now what if I put a switch and after I turn the car I try to turn them on will it tiger the error???

[///Matt]

the error happens because the car "knows" that the angel eyes are off, but sensor input is telling the car that they're on, so it pops up an error. It doesn't matter when or how you turn them on in this situation, the error will come.

you will ALWAYS get an error turning on the angel eyes when the computer thinks they should be off.

I'll have to get under my OWN hood tomorrow afternoon and mess around a little. I can't give you details right now, because you'll need pictures and step by step. I'll make a little DIY tomorrow. =)

In the mean time, I've got some frickin COOl ideas on how to make the turn signals stay off until activated... more details on that later... it's complicated! lol


Matt

[///Matt]

BTW... looks like I need to get some PIAA, yours look sick, even in daylight... unless LUX 2.0 is going to get here anytime soon???? how bout it MDS, am I going to buy from you, and make us BOTH happy, or am I going to spend more and get less? lol

Matt

[jayz4]

Super stoked to see the progress on this! The PIAA look BLAZING! I too am waiting on LUX 2.0. Better happen soon or I'll hafta order the PIAA. Calvino, what are the specs on your PIAA? Color?

YOU GUYS ROCK!

[calvino]

I can't find a way to not get a error I found out that if is daytime and you turn the car on and wait 10-15 seconds and turn the angel lights the error will not show up but at night time it will does the halo lights use some time of fuse?? can I just remove the fuse so I don't get the error? is that posible what about a resistor?

I hope it is because I'm all exsited to make it work :rocks: