[EAS]

Well look what just showed up:



Who's next?

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by Austin@GIAC

It pertains to air flow differences. The openings (or lack thereof) in the airbox will hinder how much air can enter the engine under higher boost pressures. With two cone filters, there is more physical area for air to enter the engine. Even if it is less dense from heat, if you are doubling it, there will be more. This is also why Mr. 5's airbox works, he increased the amount of air that could enter the airbox.

Austin, what about a Simota CF intake..its similar to a Gruppe M...here are some pics

[I335]

I was thinking Simota too, but still a bit too flashy for me...

[tscdennab]

In the end I chose the Injen Intake (found it for $300 new on Amazon) until something better comes along. I have the PPK so I cannot route a snorkel to the bumper.

I am thinking that the best intake for me is the stock one with a drop-in filter, coupled to an Injen-like placed filter (in the corner of the driver's side in the engine compartment) routed to the stock box. This would be half-DCI and half-CAI

[I335]

Originally Posted by tscdennab

In the end I chose the Injen Intake (found it for $300 new on Amazon) until something better comes along. I have the PPK so I cannot route a snorkel to the bumper.

I am thinking that the best intake for me is the stock one with a drop-in filter, coupled to an Injen-like placed filter (in the corner of the driver's side in the engine compartment) routed to the stock box. This would be half-DCI and half-CAI

Sounds like a good plan. I was thinking something similar...

What do you guys think about adding a simple mushroom style filter sitting right up against the OEM intake - right where Mr 5's intake is attached. Yes, I understand that it wouldn't be routed to a cooler spot down by the wheel but neither are a lot of other intakes. I wonder if something like this would be enough or if it would be an improvement at all. I would have to think it would provide for more air and perhaps it would work even better than a DCI given that at least some of the air is coming in cold from the snorkel. With a DCI you're not getting any cold air at all. It would certainly be a much easier and cleaner install as well. Thoughts?

[tibra1]

For me it came down to a simple choice.I didnt care for the open DCI cause of the hot air they draw..n I wanted to remove the stock air box, b/c it is too restrictive and creates vacuum..Simota seemed like a good choice..n for me I really love that CF look under the hood

As far as routing additional air filters to bottom by the wheel..similar to MR 5 and Dinan..i think no one can argue these work very well..I just hesistate b/c of the potential for rubbing, water soaking, road debris or other general problems from a filter in this spot. They may also present challenges when running a lower set up on the car such as coilovers...there is so little room in these engine bays..its literally mm's.


I am hoping Austin at GIAC will give me a on the Simota for use w Stage 2.

[I335]

Originally Posted by tibra1

For me it came down to a simple choice.I didnt care for the open DCI cause of the hot air they draw..n I wanted to remove the stock air box, b/c it is too restrictive and creates vacuum..Simota seemed like a good choice..n for me I really love that CF look under the hood

As far as routing additional air filters to bottom by the wheel..similar to MR 5 and Dinan..i think no one can argue these work very well..I just hesistate b/c of the potential for rubbing, water soaking, road debris or other general problems from a filter in this spot.


I am hoping Austin at GIAC will give me a on the Simota for use w Stage 2.

I don't think you'll have any problems with the Simota - it certainly looks good but I don't know how well it works. Please post back when you find out!

[enrita]

Originally Posted by tibra1

For me it came down to a simple choice.I didnt care for the open DCI cause of the hot air they draw..n I wanted to remove the stock air box, b/c it is too restrictive and creates vacuum..Simota seemed like a good choice..n for me I really love that CF look under the hood

As far as routing additional air filters to bottom by the wheel..similar to MR 5 and Dinan..i think no one can argue these work very well..I just hesistate b/c of the potential for rubbing, water soaking, road debris or other general problems from a filter in this spot. They may also present challenges when running a lower set up on the car such as coilovers...there is so little room in these engine bays..its literally mm's.


I am hoping Austin at GIAC will give me a on the Simota for use w Stage 2.

I am sure you are fine with the simota and stage 2, dont worry. There much less restriction there than the oem one.

[tibra1]

Thanks guys...i will def post my results

[I335]

BTW - where'd you get the Simota and how much was it? I saw them on ebay for about $540 but I thought that was a lot. And did you notice any gains with just the Simota itself?

[techlogik]

I'm thinking of going to Stage 2. I have full exhaust, stock DPs, FMIC and stock intake with a drop in.

I don't scream around running like a fool...seems like I could run stage 2 with no issues for just some extra HPs when needed sometimes. I don't track the car or go drag racing. I don't want to put after market dps yet because of warranty and hassles.

Seems like from the discussion running stock DPs, aftermarket cat back exhaust, FMIC and a drop-in is fine for what I plan on doing?????

[I335]

Originally Posted by techlogik

I'm thinking of going to Stage 2. I have full exhaust, stock DPs, FMIC and stock intake with a drop in.

I don't scream around running like a fool...seems like I could run stage 2 with no issues for just some extra HPs when needed sometimes. I don't track the car or go drag racing. I don't want to put after market dps yet because of warranty and hassles.

Seems like from the discussion running stock DPs, aftermarket cat back exhaust, FMIC and a drop-in is fine for what I plan on doing?????

I was under the impression the DPs, FMIC were a must, but I could be mistaken...

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by I335

BTW - where'd you get the Simota and how much was it? I saw them on ebay for about $540 but I thought that was a lot. And did you notice any gains with just the Simota itself?

I got it from Taiwan for $450 shipped..it was someone of the forum that referred me to a link for them..don't remember their name.

Actually 450-550 is a very good price for a CF intake..i mean the Gruppe M..which is identical to Simota is like $2K..which is just madness..

Im stock boost rite now and as you know with these cars unless ur boosted and using other bolt ons the intake by itself is not gonna make any substantial difference in power..it does have a nice hum when i get on it tho..telling me that its alot less restrictive than the OEM box.

I am waiting for the spring to get my GIAC S2 and do my suspension..at that point the advantages of the intake will really be felt..

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by I335

I was under the impression the DPs, FMIC were a must, but I could be mistaken...

Correct upgraded FMIC, and catless or HFC DPs, are mandatory
(honestly idk y anyone would use catted DPs..its a major restriction.. free those babies up and use an o2 simm)

I don't think they will flash u w stg 2 unless u have these...the intake and exhaust I think r optionally but they warn you will not make the power gains they advertise w/o upgrading these as well

[I335]

Originally Posted by tibra1

Correct upgraded FMIC, and catless or HFC DPs, are mandatory
(honestly idk y anyone would use catted DPs..its a major restriction.. free those babies up and use an o2 simm)

I don't think they will flash u w stg 2 unless u have these...the intake and exhaust I think r optionally but they warn you will not make the power gains they advertise w/o upgrading these as well

Both Austin (GIAC) and Andrew (AR Design) told me that the AR catted downpipes are fine - only give up 3 or 4 ponies over the catless. I went with these because I have an AE catless exhaust and I wouldn't be able to get an inspection sticker if I was completely catless.

[Imperator]

Originally Posted by I335

Both Austin (GIAC) and Andrew (AR Design) told me that the AR catted downpipes are fine - only give up 3 or 4 ponies over the catless. I went with these because I have an AE catless exhaust and I wouldn't be able to get an inspection sticker if I was completely catless.

What are the chances those AR catted downpipes will work with that tune and won't pass cat efficiency codes, especially on a newer car or one with the latest DME codebase?

I've read that even on a stock tune, downpipes with metal-substrate HFCs will eventually trip a catalytic efficiency code and lead to adding a DP fix.

I plan to keep my factory exhaust and secondary cats but use catless downpipes and O2 sims.

[I335]

Originally Posted by Imperator

What are the chances those AR catted downpipes will work with that tune and won't pass cat efficiency codes, especially on a newer car or one with the latest DME codebase?

Great question, I really have no idea.

I've read that even on a stock tune, downpipes with metal-substrate HFCs will eventually trip a catalytic efficiency code and lead to adding a DP fix.

I've heard that this can happen too. If it does, I'll probably have to get the DP fix anyhow. I'll have to see how it goes.

I plan to keep my factory exhaust and secondary cats but use catless downpipes and O2 sims.[/quote]I know the O2 sims will get rid of the cel, but will it also allow you to pass inspection?

[Imperator]

Originally Posted by I335

I know the O2 sims will get rid of the cel, but will it also allow you to pass inspection?

I believe it does. The O2 simulators provide "simulated" voltage readings back to the DME, fooling it into thinking secondary sensors are connected and providing accurate readings. This allows an OBD-II-based inspection station to pass the O2 readiness test, despite the fact that your tailpipe may (or may not) be emitting more NOx levels due to the absent primary cats.

Actual tailpipe emissions only matter to a "sniffer test." Most municipalities use OBD-II compliant inspection tests for vehicle model years 1996+ and don't actually measure tailpipe gases.

[old account 1]

Originally Posted by tibra1

Austin, what about a Simota CF intake..its similar to a Gruppe M...here are some pics

Attachment 463199

Attachment 463200

Attachment 463201

I have heard good things about it and believe we have a couple of customers using. I have yet to get my hands on a car with one to gather data, though.

[old account 1]

Originally Posted by Imperator

What are the chances those AR catted downpipes will work with that tune and won't pass cat efficiency codes, especially on a newer car or one with the latest DME codebase?

I've read that even on a stock tune, downpipes with metal-substrate HFCs will eventually trip a catalytic efficiency code and lead to adding a DP fix.

I plan to keep my factory exhaust and secondary cats but use catless downpipes and O2 sims.

Euro-trip on here has them on his 2010 with the very latest code revision and does not throw any codes. He does not have any readiness issues to my knowledge.

[Imperator]

Originally Posted by Austin@GIAC

Euro-trip on here has them on his 2010 with the very latest code revision and does not throw any codes. He does not have any readiness issues to my knowledge.

Thanks for the feedback. Is he using the AR catted downpipes and what, if any, reduction in power might be attributed to using metal-substrate HFCs?

[old account 1]

Originally Posted by Imperator

Thanks for the feedback. Is he using the AR catted downpipes and what, if any, reduction in power might be attributed to using metal-substrate HFCs?

He has the AR catted DPs. His car has some of the highest numbers on our dyno. From what I can tell, they really aren't a hinderance.

I have 400cell cats on my 463whp S4 which I swapped from test pipes. I didn't see any sort of power difference to speak of.