[GarageKeptE92]

You can pick up a devils own meth kit for under 250 now. Failsafe from whoever you prefer for your tune of choice. Not a bad way to spend some money on meth!

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by GarageKeptE92

You can pick up a devils own meth kit for under 250 now. Failsafe from whoever you prefer for your tune of choice. Not a bad way to spend some money on meth!

Thanks, but when choosing a meth kit the last thing I will care about is how much it costs.

[madmanhiker]

Great write-up! [This] is why forums rock.

[GarageKeptE92]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Thanks, but when choosing a meth kit the last thing I will care about is how much it costs.

Dont let my pricing suggestion dissuade you that the quality is no up to par, its a solid kit widely used around here if you havnt noticed. Most meth kits use universal pumps, over the counter lines, what sets most apart is how the fittings interact and failsafes that are offered for specific vehicles with tunes.

[zsapphire7]

any better pics of the intake valves?

[Tee212]

good job Brian! respect the hands on work. Any specialty tools required?

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by zsapphire7

any better pics of the intake valves?

Originally Posted by Tee212

good job Brian! respect the hands on work. Any specialty tools required?

Hey guys, I tried for a good 5 minutes to try to take good pics with my SLR and cell phone camera...but couldn't get any light into the intake port. Either the camera was blocking the light, the flash was too far above the port, etc. Just didn't work out.

There aren't really any special tools required...except a E12 Reverse Torx socket...but if you are a badass you could use a 10mm or 3/8 12 point wrench or socket. Other than that, it's pretty basic tools.

[zsapphire7]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Hey guys, I tried for a good 5 minutes to try to take good pics with my SLR and cell phone camera...but couldn't get any light into the intake port. Either the camera was blocking the light, the flash was too far above the port, etc. Just didn't work out.

There aren't really any special tools required...except a E12 Reverse Torx socket...but if you are a badass you could use a 10mm or 3/8 12 point wrench or socket. Other than that, it's pretty basic tools.

i think you should take the bite and run meth strictly for cleaning purposes. 1-2 track days using meth and take new pics . I really wanna see if meth cleans up the valves!

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by zsapphire7

i think you should take the bite and run meth strictly for cleaning purposes. 1-2 track days using meth and take new pics . I really wanna see if meth cleans up the valves!

Me too! I think we really need a good solution to clean our valves without taking dentist tools to them. If only there was some type of solvent that is proven to break up carbon, I bet nearly all of us would buy it. I have done significant experiments with Seafoam, and it did not break down carbon on pistons, heads, or valves I wish we had some more data on methanol cleaning.

[gizmo335i]

You sir are awesome for posting this and just made my week.

Subscribed..

Thank you!!!

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by gizmo335i

You sir are awesome for posting this and just made my week.

Subscribed..

Thank you!!!

Ha No worries man, not really a big deal...

We should give thanks to Eric for putting together a long and detailed DIY!

[Xaero]

Whats the part number for the latest HPFP pump?

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Here is a Tischer link.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214672
Since I had procrastinated ordering from Tischer, it of course went out right when I couldn't wait and needed the car this weekend...but the dealership didn't hesitate to match their price and had [plenty] in stock.



True, but I simply preferred to spend the extra 2 minutes and have a plethora of room to work with, and also be able to clean everything. Since I'm not a tech working on flat rate, why not take the extra couple minutes to make the job significantly easier?



The parts guy was coherent enough to tell me about the al bolts that would need to be replaced...however got mixed up and only gave me one. Luckily I had a few other M6x25 bolts to substitute.

The part number for the aluminum bolts: 07119904954



I know Quite a bummer. I really wonder if meth makes a difference either.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Xaero

Whats the part number for the latest HPFP pump?

1351 7 613 933 is the newest fuel pump part number that BMW is using. They are 'refurbished' ones.

[JohnL135I]

HPFP replacement video.

Enjoy

[raceyBMW]

Guys remember that on the N54, even if you have an OCC, there will be significant vapors that are directed right to the intake manifold when off boost.

The valve cover has a built in PCV with a diverter flap that opens to direct crankcase vapors to the rear intake tract when on boost (intake manifold pressurized above atmospheric). This is what the OCC will catch.

HOWEVER, when off boost (deceleration or idling) and the intake manifold is under vacuum, the PCV diverter flap is closed, and crankcase vapors are dumped straight into the intake manifold. Unfortunately there is nothing to do about these vapors getting onto your valves unless you modify the valve cover itself.

The OCC will help keep your rear turbo and intake tract clean, but won't completely prevent build-up on the valves from the oily crankcase vapors.

[marconi118]

Originally Posted by raceyBMW

Guys remember that on the N54, even if you have an OCC, there will be significant vapors that are directed right to the intake manifold when off boost.

The valve cover has a built in PCV with a diverter flap that opens to direct crankcase vapors to the rear intake tract when on boost (intake manifold pressurized above atmospheric). This is what the OCC will catch.

HOWEVER, when off boost (deceleration or idling) and the intake manifold is under vacuum, the PCV diverter flap is closed, and crankcase vapors are dumped straight into the intake manifold. Unfortunately there is nothing to do about these vapors getting onto your valves unless you modify the valve cover itself.

The OCC will help keep your rear turbo and intake tract clean, but won't completely prevent build-up on the valves from the oily crankcase vapors.

off boost how the vapors are directed to the intake manifold? is there a passage from the cam cover to the manifold? It seems to me there are only the 6 runners on the intake manifold, how the vapours come in?

Maybe it could be modified?

[raceyBMW]

Check out page 12 in this document

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...9&d=1165592709

The vapors are directed by a check valve that is molded into the plastic valve cover. You would have to redesign a new valve cover most likely to by-pass.

[marconi118]

on the picture on page 12 number 4 where the vapour goes? directly in the head valve ports? in the manifold via a separate duct?
any picture of it?

maybe we could simply close this passage to force the vapours to go out by the number 2 to the OCC

[raceyBMW]

#4 is the duct, molded as part of the valve cover. You can kind of see it here, right above where the #1 is pointing.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...68&hg=11&fg=15

It might be possible to block this, but then you would also have to remove the check valve (the piece on the left side of #9 here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...73&hg=11&fg=40) and fab up a new hose to connect into the rear turbo inlet.

[Vrizrak]

Great job.