[shockin330i]

Originally Posted by madmanhiker

hahaha... i know.

Do it!!!! Like now! haha

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by Shellacked135i

Dont give me the Tuner war BS... this guy has multiple threads of problems with this car. He refuses to update his DME and doesnt even try another tuning solution.

How many more threads before he gets the hint? At the very least update the DME and see if it solves the problem, which was mentioned in his last thread and he still didnt.

Please refrain from your anti-n55 rant here. I am very particular and expect the hard-earned money I spend on vendor parts to work when they post dynos and my testing produces different results.

I want to get what I paid for. We all know, the n55 will never be as good as an n54 in your eyes. You are the man, you are the best. Now please STFU and let others provide the incredibly valuable assistance they are providing.

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

It's a details business. The Stage1 directions say to test map 6 to determine if you have the new or old DME software. If using the old software bolt on mods are not suggested. Did you do the map 6 test? Did you log any of the runs?

The Stage1 tuning is set to roll back power as intake temperatures increase. So 305rw on a 100 degree day doesn't sound too far off for default settings if the car was 100% stock. Especially if the dyno fan isn't up to par. If you have the old DME software your results would be as expected. Horrible with the bolt on mods. Also, oiled filters
are not suggested for intakes as they coat and ruin the MAF sensor. Once the MAF sensor is coated in oil you also won't make much power. Basically you have a lot going on and you'll need to troubleshoot it.

Mike

Mike - Thanks. This sounds logical. I did take the MAF out to confirm. There is ZERO evidence of oil.

The dyno fan was poor at best. We even bought a bag of ice and placed it on the air baffle tune to the throttle body. The garage temps were 102.

As you stated, as the dyno runs continued, POWER WENT DOWN.

I am running default MAP 1 on original n55 DME.

Therefore, my course of action will be as follows (unless others who are positively contributing see any need for changes)

Remove n55 Stage 1
Remove the Vishnu DP replace to Stock dp
Get DME Software update
* Re-Dyno at STOCK for baseline (with exception of axleback exhaust)*

Then reinstall Vishnu DP with new crush gaskets.
* Re-Dyno - post results*

Then reinstall N55 Stage 1 with +5 psi.
* Re-Dyno - post results*

Then reinstall aFe CAI
* Re-Dyno - post results*

Is that correct?

[Shellacked135i]

Originally Posted by madmanhiker

Please refrain from your anti-n55 rant here. I am very particular and expect the hard-earned money I spend on vendor parts to work when they post dynos and my testing produces different results.

I want to get what I paid for. We all know, the n55 will never be as good as an n54 in your eyes. You are the man, you are the best. Now please STFU and let others provide the incredibly valuable assistance they are providing.

Anti N55 Rant? RE-read what I wrote. I gave you your answer.

UPDATE YOUR DME SOFTWARE

I have no problem with the N55, the problem is you dont listen. Others have suggested in this thread as well as your last threads, update.

People confuse constructive criticism with hate towards N55, brilliant reading comprehension mate.

[madmanhiker]

Read it and weep (I know I am)

[FrankiE90]

Ernie has the right idea on the dme update.
Who else has a mod'd N55 in your area?


just saw ur dyno.
don't weep.
look at it as figuring out the N55.
and help'n others in the same boat.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

How long are you waiting between dyno pulls?

[Pepe_pr]

Tomorow i will get installed the new DME Software at the BMW. Hopefully i will get everything sort out. I will let you know how does it feel once installed.

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by Pepe_pr

Tomorow i will get installed the new DME Software at the BMW. Hopefully i will get everything sort out. I will let you know how does it feel once installed.

Thanks.

[shockin330i]

Originally Posted by Pepe_pr

Tomorow i will get installed the new DME Software at the BMW. Hopefully i will get everything sort out. I will let you know how does it feel once installed.

DISCONNECT YOUR CANBUS WIRES BEFORE!!!

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by FrankiE90

Ernie has the right idea on the dme update.
Who else has a mod'd N55 in your area?


just saw ur dyno.
don't weep.
look at it as figuring out the N55.
and help'n others in the same boat.

Thanks. No other modded n55's, but a lot of n54 friends (from this forum) that have been extremely helpful. We go to meets, have some fun in WOT runs and help mod on weekends. They have been incredibly helpful - and are just as perplexed as I am. It seems as though the n55 is a little tricky to finesse.

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by shockin330i

DISCONNECT YOUR CANBUS WIRES BEFORE!!!

That is incredibly clear. Thanks for the tip, I'll remember this as well. lol

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

How long are you waiting between dyno pulls?

Yesterday was our groups first "team" dyno pull. We got a sweet rate for our team at only $35 per car for 4 hours! Special thanks to BoostedJohn for the awesome hookup.

How long should I wait between runs? What is the suggested mileage/adaptation etc.........

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by madmanhiker

Mike - Thanks. This sounds logical. I did take the MAF out to confirm. There is ZERO evidence of oil.

The dyno fan was poor at best. We even bought a bag of ice and placed it on the air baffle tune to the throttle body. The garage temps were 102.

As you stated, as the dyno runs continued, POWER WENT DOWN.

I am running default MAP 1 on original n55 DME.

Therefore, my course of action will be as follows (unless others who are positively contributing see any need for changes)

Remove n55 Stage 1
Remove the Vishnu DP replace to Stock dp
Get DME Software update
* Re-Dyno at STOCK for baseline (with exception of axleback exhaust)*

Then reinstall Vishnu DP with new crush gaskets.
* Re-Dyno - post results*

Then reinstall N55 Stage 1 with +5 psi.
* Re-Dyno - post results*

Then reinstall aFe CAI
* Re-Dyno - post results*

Is that correct?

Sounds like a good plan. If the MAF is now oil damaged you'll have poor stock dyno results so will know right then.

Mike

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by madmanhiker

Yesterday was our groups first "team" dyno pull. We got a sweet rate for our team at only $35 per car for 4 hours! Special thanks to BoostedJohn for the awesome hookup.

How long should I wait between runs? What is the suggested mileage/adaptation etc.........

Well waiting as long as possible is suggested. Usually a good 10 minutes for adequate cool down, even more with temps like you said you had.

You have stock intercooler right? That thing was probably extremely heat soaked considering the N55 turbo's really run out of breath when boost is increased.

I think there is some substance to the DME update though, so you should look into it.

[FrankiE90]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

Sounds like a good plan. If the MAF is now oil damaged you'll have poor stock dyno results so will know right then.

Mike

Why are we saying the MAF is oil damaged?
did madmanhiker say he found oil on the MAF sensor?

I would think after all those pulls,
you would want 15-20min cool down in between
each run because of heat soak.
those numbers are going be down because of it.

going back to the oil damaged MAF -
just spray with MAF cleaner if you
feel there's oil residue on the MAF.
that should take care of that.

it'll be great if he baseline dyno like the mention'd
above. good luck madmanhiker.

[madmanhiker]

Originally Posted by FrankiE90

Why are we saying the MAF is oil damaged?
did madmanhiker say he found oil on the MAF sensor?

I would think after all those pulls,
you would want 15-20min cool down in between
each run because of heat soak.
those numbers are going be down because of it.

going back to the oil damaged MAF -
just spray with MAF cleaner if you
feel there's oil residue on the MAF.
that should take care of that.

it'll be great if he baseline dyno like the mention'd
above. good luck madmanhiker.

No. the MAF is fine - no issue at all - irrelevant, but WILL keep eye on it.

And I think heat soak may have contributed - yep stock intercooler and it was hot as balls in the shop with a poor fan for circulation, plus I was the last car to go on the dyno - so... it was an oven in there.

[D.B.S]

I think your plan of action is sound... Only thing I would add / change... Do two dyno runs for the tune part... One at the base lvl (3.5) with all your mods installed and one at the higher lvl (5.0)... This would give a good indication of how much 'power' you get from the base lvl and the recommended higher lvl (with updated dme)

[ciomas]

remap guys - remap! ;]

[Tony135]

Interesting. I'll be dynoing my car tomorrow with jb3 and a DP so I'll let you guys know what happens. Terry@BMS will be there with me.

[N55]

Originally Posted by shockin330i

DISCONNECT YOUR CANBUS WIRES BEFORE!!!

+100000000000000000000000!!!!!!!!!! I can confirm that it will not update unless it is disconnected. (Wish I would of know before) I took mine in with it just on Valet mode and the forman was not happy to say the least.

[hotrod182]

With those hot ambient temps, and poor dyno fan, you are probably getting a lot of boost decay for increased safety margin. Perhaps you were making near stock boost levels. Didn't the dyno operator attempt to log boost levels?