[Syndicategt]

Originally Posted by nafoo

What's the wait time on RB turbos at this time?

I waited 5 months. Rob is pumping them out a lot faster now. In his defense, he has to wait on the CHRA's which is out of his control and the demand is very high.

[venom3469]

Wow there are a lot of people making turbo upgrades for this car now.

I need to do more research, I was thinking ASR or RB but idk.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

I actually have 8-10 "unspoken for" sets of CHRA's nearing completion, that will speed things up quite abit.

Originally Posted by Syndicategt

I waited 5 months. Rob is pumping them out a lot faster now. In his defense, he has to wait on the CHRA's which is out of his control and the demand is very high.

[nafoo]

Originally Posted by RobBeck

I actually have 8-10 "unspoken for" sets of CHRA's nearing completion, that will speed things up quite abit.

Do these come with everything needed for install? How long do you think an install would take? Does the engine need to be lifted?

[Syndicategt]

Originally Posted by nafoo

Do these come with everything needed for install? How long do you think an install would take? Does the engine need to be lifted?

No, you will need to buy the recommeded hardware from Tischer. Rob supplies a spreadsheet with the part numbers. You can use old parts but it's not recommended.

$200 hardware + $200 new oil lines (you can re-use the old lines but they need to be cleaned well). The install will take anywhere from 10-18 hours depending on the shops experience. I've heard of dealerships doing the install since they are basincally OEM turbos and a direct bolt-on. Yes, the engine needs to be raised slightly on the turbo side for the install, it's very cramped in there. Give me a few days and I'll post a detailed write-up with a bunch of pictures of the install done by Sonic MS.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

All turbo replacements require several gaskets, a couple seals, a bolt here or there, and possibly new oil lines. Typical install parts are about $100-150 without the lines, and are not included with any turbo setups to my knowledge. The engine does not need to be lifted or removed, but the passenger side motor mount needs to be temporarily removed so that the turbos have clearance to come out. The engine can be supported from the top or bottom while this is done per the mechanics preference.

I have read of installs being quoted anywhere from 8-16 hours (~$800-$1600), which is a big variance. Alternatively an individual with good mechanical skills and tools can do this in the garage on jackstands if they so choose. But if you have a problem with downpipe installs, this is something you probably shouldn't consider.

The above goes for any turbo setup that installs like the OEM units and use the OEM lines; others that do not may take longer as they typically require some custom efforts.

Originally Posted by nafoo

Do these come with everything needed for install? How long do you think an install would take? Does the engine need to be lifted?

[gdawg]

Will these turbos fit a 535XI?

[Aridk]

Hi Rob

Those billet wastegates are they of your own design or are you useing the hardware from the upgrade turbo´s (8mm wg-shaft) are the 8mm MHI wg from plain normal steel?

Originally Posted by jippii ensio

No, only RBs have upgraded billet wastegates. You really want those if you want to avoid WG rattle down the road for sure.

When it comes to upgraded rather than clipped turbine wheels, three offerings come with fully upgraded wheels; RBs, ASRs and TD stg2. Others don't.

Originally Posted by RobBeck

I realize that but your "unresolved" connotation seems like it's a universal widespread issue with a product. It doesn't seem fair to single out issues and make them seem widespread at ones' preference. For example you say TD wastegates "seem to work"; what about this thread?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421567

Don't get me wrong, even brand new wastegates will make a little noise and rattle abit. But the issue above "seems to not work" as the new replacement MHI units fixed the rattle immediately. Perhaps that means TD has "unresolved" wastegate fix issues. In that thread, TD mentions some wastegate parts being "baggy" and may not be 100%. Well guess what that is the norm on most of these cores. The INTERNAL Wastegates I've seen are mostly junk or well on their way. It is so bad it's not even worth trying to find the 1/10 that maybe considered usable with some probability of success. So whichever upgrade you choose, you better make sure your cores have "known perfect" wastegates if they are not in some beneficial way addressed by the manufacturer.

As for the 6mm vs. 8mm "wastegates":

At some point, MHI began changing turbos INTERNAL wastegates to a lever design with an 8mm pin (up from 6mm). This has NOTHING to do with the actuators, it is the internal wastegates that were modified. There were a few other revisions to the INTERNAL wastegate components at this time, the 8mm pin being only one of them. Although refinements continued as time went on, the 8mm pin remained the same. So if you have the 8mm pin on your turbos this at least means you have some of the refinements, but does not guarantee you have them all. I have seen 8mm units with excessive wear, which is why MHI continued with updates. The smaller 6mm pins had older INTERNAL wastegate designs that had excessive premature wear issues all over. TD does not correct all of this, they simply work with what they are supplied and try to remedy at the single wear point aforementioned (wastegate arm shaft and support bushing). They do not address the flapper to wastegate arm which is in my opinion the primary culprit for rattle. Nor do they replace the 6mm pin with an 8mm pin if presented a 6mm set of cores. I would agree that fixing the shaft and bushing will temporarily prevent the shaft from binding though, along with reducing a smaller amount of the rattle... at least until the shaft wears oblong again (same material).

The actuator themselves have never changed, dimensionally, but did get a new spring inside the body later in production. There was never a 6mm or 8mm actuator. They have always been the same aside for the spring. However, the holder (end piece) that threads on to the actuator did change to an 8mm hole (from 6mm) to work with the later 8mm Wastegate Lever Pin incorporated into the Internal wastegates on the turbine housing (which brought about the Internal wastegate changes listed above).

Once again. There is no such thing as a 6mm or 8mm Wastegate ACTUATOR, but there is such thing in the Wastegate INTERNALS (and the holder which simply threads onto the Actuator and slips over the 8mm Lever Pin). That said, if your cores have the 6mm Internal wastegate design to begin with they will always be the 6mm design and materials unless the wastegate internals are completely discarded and reworked from scratch.

Sorry about the tangeant, just so much confusion in this area I am trying to help some understand.