|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
E90 Problem Tried to many solutions need help
|
|
04-19-2016, 10:53 AM | #45 | |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-06-2016, 05:04 PM | #46 | |
Private
17
Rep 69
Posts |
Quote:
I found videos online showing the process to replace the CAS using AUTOHEX II. Now I just need to find someone in Houston with AUTOHEX II. I will call up Alex and start my search there. Thanks! |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-06-2016, 06:00 PM | #47 | |
Ballin' out of control.
525
Rep 1,289
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
Alpina B3 Flash/BMS OCC/ER CP/ETS 5/HKS BOV/M3 Control Arms
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-24-2016, 03:38 PM | #49 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
Fault code Cas Driver KL50L kS
i am having the same issue,
fault code CAS Driver KL50L kS Engine won't start, attempts to crank and nothing. all lights inside good. replaced starter motor, repaired earth cable, replaced CAS, replaced Battery, taken to BMW and coming off the truck, fault repaired itself. Drove it for 4 days and failed to start at shopping centre. total of 8tows, 4 mechanic workshops, 1 auto electrician. Suggested repair now is change alternator. The recent issue was the positive cable from the jump start connection to the starter motor became very hot to the point of melting cables. hottest section was near the jump start terminal. Thus in turn flattened the battery while sitting in BMW workshop. i have attempted disconnecting the IBIS, connecting the IBIS. earthing the motor, earthing the battery to the car body. This did improve the volts at the jump start terminal. before connecting the earth, the volts constantly fluctuated. HELP love the car, would like to drive it more. BMW 2010 335i Msport with JB4. (problem occurs when JB4 disconnected) |
Appreciate
0
|
08-26-2016, 11:46 AM | #50 |
Private
17
Rep 69
Posts |
You said the grounding helped, have you checked what is the voltage at the alternator when the engine is running? It will vary but should be somewhere around 12-14v. Next see what the voltage drop is from engine to body. Simple volt meter with red on engine block and black on car body. I don't remember what is acceptable, but something under 1v would be preferred.
I was getting around a 2.4v drop which said it wasn't my alternator causing a flat battery. But you may have a different issue if the terminal is getting hot... sounds like a short or hanging load somewhere. Resistance from starter to jump post is near zero? with battery disconnected of course. I'm pretty sure all my issues were created by a bad ground wire. Which caused trace line issues in my CAS and DME. A few extra resistors inline for the DME keeps it working, but no dice on the CAS for me. The relay is an ancient part and glued to the board. |
Appreciate
0
|
08-26-2016, 11:48 AM | #51 |
Private
17
Rep 69
Posts |
Try taking jumper cables and clamping one end to the engine (I found a bracket next to the alternator accessible) and the other to the strut tower or another good grounding point on the body and see if things get any better.
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-27-2016, 04:15 AM | #52 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
reply to Chris
hi,
i tried connecting the jumper cable as you mentioned, still no start. i currently cannot start the vehicle. i have ordered the Carly wifi connector so i can get a better read from the computer when i attempt to start it. i wish the starter motor was more accessible. thanks for the reply. Still love the car.http://www.e90post.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif |
Appreciate
0
|
09-05-2016, 08:35 PM | #53 |
Banned
7485
Rep 10,119
Posts |
Same problem here. Started on Monday last week. Replaced battery because it was low and that fixed the issue but it came back yesterday.
A0c1 A0b4 Are the codes I'm getting. Was able to start car this am after about 30 tries. Drove it my Indy to drop it off for tomorrow. Tested the car after parking it there and the bastard fires up every time. Let's see what they say tomorrow. |
Appreciate
0
|
01-07-2017, 12:45 PM | #54 |
New Member
1
Rep 14
Posts |
Was this ever solved ?
Hi peeps, just wondering if this was ever solved, I know an old post but seems issues listed are exactly same as I am having with a 320i
Can anyone shed any light on what was wrong ? Thanks |
Appreciate
0
|
11-10-2017, 08:21 PM | #55 | |
New Member
0
Rep 6
Posts |
Quote:
My main question is if the starter is not functioning correctly would it occasionally work? PS here are my fault codes Immobilizer System: CAS engine starter faulty operation Code: 00A0B4 |
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-16-2017, 11:59 AM | #56 | |
Private First Class
49
Rep 103
Posts |
Quote:
My E93 stalled last week, then wouldn't crank but bump started fine. Since then I've been trying to work out if the problem is the ECU/immobiliser side of things, or the actual starter side of things. I now know the ECU/immobiliser is trying to turn the starter - but nothing happens. Now I can focus on battery, cables (positive & earth), or simply a stuck starter solenoid (ie. starter replacement time - after removing the manifold )
__________________
Ex BMW owner (2007 E93 325i, E36 325i & 328i from the 90's)
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-08-2018, 04:39 AM | #57 |
New Member
0
Rep 14
Posts
Drives: 2007 328i wagon
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Powder Springs, GA
|
Replaced my starter on 2007 328i / E91 and the car started just fine, but would not start the second time. Battery is good.... Any ideas? I got the reman starter at NAPA
__________________
Yuri
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-17-2018, 10:42 AM | #58 |
Lieutenant
165
Rep 513
Posts
Drives: 08 335i
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Atlanta
|
I second this notion check all of the ground's. I had similar issues with my X3 and it was a corroded ground strap. Not sure if this applies but try and find all of the grounds on your car and make sure there not corroded and on tight.
__________________
2008 335i E93, DP's, 7" FMIC, DCI,CP TIAL Q BOV, MHD Stage 2+, Alpina Flash
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-17-2018, 12:58 PM | #59 | |
Major General
4346
Rep 6,196
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-20-2018, 06:52 AM | #60 | |
Colonel
312
Rep 2,020
Posts |
Quote:
When I had starter issues, I checked this first. I am surprised no one mentioned this first in this 3 page thread. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-29-2018, 08:06 PM | #61 |
Lieutenant
47
Rep 465
Posts |
Doesn't seem like anyone has solved this issue? Is it something we will just have to deal with?
New battery here, new starter, grounds are all perfect. Car randomly just clicks and hums like it wants to start, but doesn't start. Push started it, got home, and car starts fine now. Has anyone been able to tell what it is? |
Appreciate
0
|
11-30-2018, 01:19 PM | #62 |
Lieutenant
47
Rep 465
Posts |
After doing a TON of fucking reading, and following one guys very detailed journey that lasted months, he narrowed it down to his clutch switch, which would then be brake switch on autos. Ill be installing a clutch switch this weekend to see. What I noticed through INPA is that the current to KL50L is erratic when it doesnt start, like it errors out and says 36. When it actualyl starts its at 12. Similar to what this guy found on his M3. If anyone else is having this issue, its worth a read. Ill report back if it worked.
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...1142234&page=6 |
Appreciate
0
|
12-03-2018, 12:58 AM | #63 |
Lieutenant
47
Rep 465
Posts |
The day before installing the clutch switch, out of about 8 starts, 4 just clicked and didn’t start.
After installing the clutch switch, 16 starts later, all started perfect. Crossing fingers this issue is a thing of the past. Been annoying as hell. |
Appreciate
0
|
12-03-2018, 08:00 AM | #64 |
Private
17
Rep 69
Posts |
I guess I did like everyone else. Fixed my problem and never came back. For me it all started with a very green and stretched engine ground cable. In the end the eBay dme/cas combo was enough to prove the original CAS was bad. I could start and drive but didn't like the tamper dot and didn't want a mixed set of VINs in the car. I finally found a dealer that would just order the CAS. A few days later it was liftetslly plug and play. New CAS came programed with VIN and keys. Boom! No more starter trigger in the passenger seat.
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-03-2018, 09:47 PM | #65 |
Lieutenant
47
Rep 465
Posts |
Problem is back after three days of no issues after the clutch position sensor. Took apart the CAS and no signs of burns or broken links. Pin 21 has 12 volt going in, and pin 22 has 12 volts going out. Jumped both pins and the starter clicks but still doesn’t turn over. Could it really be the fucking starter again? Just doesn’t totally add up here. It’s also a 2 month old starter.
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-12-2019, 09:34 PM | #66 |
Registered
0
Rep 1
Posts |
Good lord. After reading all these comments. I am so worried. I am having the exact same problems on my 07 328, it starts up fine most of the time and then there's times I'm stuck having to bump start it and i hate it it's a 6 month old starter. Especially the location of the starter is terrible. But i am getting A0B0(brake signal implausible) code and A0B4(starter operation) and they are both CAS codes, on top of that i have BSD codes that say my alternator is missing and my water pump is missing but my car runs fine! What is up with these cars. I have erased codes and have replaced parts and etc.
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|