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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > what oil are YOU using



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      11-27-2013, 09:51 PM   #45
floydarogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnat View Post
Wow, no love at all for Shell Rotella T6 5-40. I've used this in all my turbo cars ie: WRX/STI and this 335. I'm not going to take the stand that this is the best oil period but back when I first starting using it I did some research and was satisfied that this would be a good oil to use in a turbo car that generates a lot of heat. MHO!
There are problems with Rotella
1) It's actually an oil designed for diesel engines and for use in commercial heavy-duty trucks. Far different than gasoline engines.
2) BMW has taken the tack (mostly for the extended drain intervals it specifies) that any oil should be ACEA A3/B3-4, not E9. There is more TBN in A3/B3-4 than in the E9 spec.
3) It doesn't come close to meeting BMW's LL-01 oil (probably comes closer to LL-04 due to the low ash formula). Remember, oil in our engines have to act as hydraulic oil for the VANOS solenoids, and has to be ok in aluminum blocks and plastic oil pans. None of those are considerations for diesel truck engines.
4) It isn't an SL or SM API oil, which is what BMW specs for top-offs (but not for fills.)
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      11-27-2013, 09:57 PM   #46
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Getting ready for my first oil change since taking ownership.
Going with OEM oil, 5K intervals.
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      11-27-2013, 10:00 PM   #47
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Motul 300v 0-40 oil temps at least 10 degrees cooler and when I run the car hard the oil cools down fast.
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      11-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #48
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Whatever oil does BMW dealership puts in my car- BMW warranty FTW
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      11-27-2013, 10:28 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335 View Post
Whatever oil does BMW dealership puts in my car- BMW warranty FTW
Exactly. Who cares!?!

Pay the man, drive away.
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      11-27-2013, 10:29 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
There are problems with Rotella
1) It's actually an oil designed for diesel engines and for use in commercial heavy-duty trucks. Far different than gasoline engines.
2) BMW has taken the tack (mostly for the extended drain intervals it specifies) that any oil should be ACEA A3/B3-4, not E9. There is more TBN in A3/B3-4 than in the E9 spec.
3) It doesn't come close to meeting BMW's LL-01 oil (probably comes closer to LL-04 due to the low ash formula). Remember, oil in our engines have to act as hydraulic oil for the VANOS solenoids, and has to be ok in aluminum blocks and plastic oil pans. None of those are considerations for diesel truck engines.
4) It isn't an SL or SM API oil, which is what BMW specs for top-offs (but not for fills.)
Not the Rotella debate. Same crap on all the motorcycle forums I go to
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      11-27-2013, 10:38 PM   #51
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German Castrol 0-30, 7.5k change intervals. Switched over from oem due to Vanos solenoids getting gunked up with the OEM stuff and it being PAO based. Engine seems to like it.
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      11-27-2013, 10:56 PM   #52
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I run the highest flash point oil I can buy, 335 engine. If I had a 328 any good quality synthetic 5W-30...
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      11-27-2013, 11:17 PM   #53
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I am using Royal purple SAE 5w-30. Any thoughts on this one? An indy put this in for me and said it improves fuel economy, makes the engine perform better, reduces wear and tear and results in cooler engine temps... can any buddy provide insight into this? Can an oil really do all that?
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      11-28-2013, 06:18 AM   #54
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For some of us it is not about paying the man, getting a loaner, having someone else do it, etc. It is about having the satisfaction of doing the work ourselves, knowing the job was done right (i.e. right oil, right amount of oil, right torque specs, etc.)

I can afford to pay the dealer, but approximately every 7500 miles as part of the oil change routine, I enjoy the process of inspecting the under-carriage for leaks + worn out parts + overall cleaning.
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      11-28-2013, 07:00 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mansito View Post
For some of us it is not about paying the man, getting a loaner, having someone else do it, etc. It is about having the satisfaction of doing the work ourselves, knowing the job was done right (i.e. right oil, right amount of oil, right torque specs, etc.)

I can afford to pay the dealer, but approximately every 7500 miles as part of the oil change routine, I enjoy the process of inspecting the under-carriage for leaks + worn out parts + overall cleaning.
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      11-28-2013, 08:18 AM   #56
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The PAO-based Castrol 0W30 (aka German stuff) is actually a very thick "30 weight". At operating temp, it's roughly the same as the M1 0W40.

Good read: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

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That’s about as light as anything I’ve seen run on our motors.
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      11-28-2013, 08:35 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philz BMW
Quote:
Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
There are problems with Rotella
1) It's actually an oil designed for diesel engines and for use in commercial heavy-duty trucks. Far different than gasoline engines.
2) BMW has taken the tack (mostly for the extended drain intervals it specifies) that any oil should be ACEA A3/B3-4, not E9. There is more TBN in A3/B3-4 than in the E9 spec.
3) It doesn't come close to meeting BMW's LL-01 oil (probably comes closer to LL-04 due to the low ash formula). Remember, oil in our engines have to act as hydraulic oil for the VANOS solenoids, and has to be ok in aluminum blocks and plastic oil pans. None of those are considerations for diesel truck engines.
4) It isn't an SL or SM API oil, which is what BMW specs for top-offs (but not for fills.)
Not the Rotella debate. Same crap on all the motorcycle forums I go to
We need Trackrat in this thread!
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      11-28-2013, 02:32 PM   #58
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So nothing on filters? Just go OEM? Anything you can purchase at a shop that may be a bit better?
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      11-28-2013, 03:22 PM   #59
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Generally Mann or Mahle is what I use. Never had an issue with either...
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      11-28-2013, 04:01 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pk_ View Post
So nothing on filters? Just go OEM? Anything you can purchase at a shop that may be a bit better?
OEM or OE suppliers (Mahle, Mann, etc), most important criterion is being "to spec" in terms of flow (so that rules out most generic filters from Fram and other retail brands, that are just designed to fit the common cartrige sizes without most other considerations), and then being available at some easy to find source.
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      11-28-2013, 06:49 PM   #61
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Garage List
Penzoil Ultra 5w-30 Euro Mix - with less lifter sound than with anything else I have tried. Interval at 5k and I believe it's the equivalent to Shell in Europe... Atleast seemed to be in Sweden!
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      11-28-2013, 07:08 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnat
Wow, no love at all for Shell Rotella T6 5-40. I've used this in all my turbo cars ie: WRX/STI and this 335. I'm not going to take the stand that this is the best oil period but back when I first starting using it I did some research and was satisfied that this would be a good oil to use in a turbo car that generates a lot of heat. MHO!
I've used T6 in multiple high performance engines. Every oil change I've done has been sent to Blackstone, all had been good. I just switched to amsoil and have had similar results. T6 is a great oil and even used it in my ST with no issues. I just sent a sample that i raced every weekend for a month and a half plus a 1200mile round trip to run a half mile drag race numerous times. I should have results by mid next week. My other car had been raced for about 3 years and the oil has came back great
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      11-28-2013, 07:28 PM   #63
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Bmw oil changed every 8k km
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      11-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #64
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German Castrol. Changed every 7.5k miles. Cheap insurance.
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      11-29-2013, 08:34 AM   #65
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Can I purchase the filters in store for the Mahle/Mann filters?
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      11-29-2013, 08:36 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pk_ View Post
Can I purchase the filters in store for the Mahle/Mann filters?
You mean at the dealer? They'll sell you an OE BMW branded Mann filter. So yea you can certainly buy it there.
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