[racerg35335]

I posted this in the forum as well but Enema and I thought it would be a good idea to post here as well. Anybody on the ropes about playing with ATR please read on!!

I have to give a shout out and say what a great product COBB makes with its AP and ATR software. I finally bit the bullet and took advantage of the
e85 available in my area. A BIG thanks goes out to Enema for helping me with my custom e30 map based on Stage 1+ agg. I was having timing corrections with stg 1+ agg on 93. Now after adding timing and adjusting the scalars accordingly I have a faster car (according to VD a 30 to 40hp gain) with zero timing corrections. Car runs great and feels smoother than the OTS map!! Not sure if this is due to the map or the e85 but the car seems to love the stuff. We started conservatively and I know there is more power to be had so I will be adding a bit more timing to see what I can squeeze out safely. Needless to say, I am currently one happy camper.
Also notice the CAI temps with the ETS 5in.

Ok, I can't seem to get the log or vd to post via upload (cvs file) or get a screenshot to paste. If anybody could let me know I would appreciate it. Print screen and ctrl V is not working. Sorry, apparently I am a bit computer illiterate. lol

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by racerg35335

I posted this in the forum as well but Enema and I thought it would be a good idea to post here as well. Anybody on the ropes about playing with ATR please read on!!

I have to give a shout out and say what a great product COBB makes with its AP and ATR software. I finally bit the bullet and took advantage of the
e85 available in my area. A BIG thanks goes out to Enema for helping me with my custom e30 map based on Stage 1+ agg. I was having timing corrections with stg 1+ agg on 93. Now after adding timing and adjusting the scalars accordingly I have a faster car (according to VD a 30 to 40hp gain) with zero timing corrections. Car runs great and feels smoother than the OTS map!! Not sure if this is due to the map or the e85 but the car seems to love the stuff. We started conservatively and I know there is more power to be had so I will be adding a bit more timing to see what I can squeeze out safely. Needless to say, I am currently one happy camper.
Also notice the CAI temps with the ETS 5in.

Ok, I can't seem to get the log or vd to post via upload (cvs file) or get a screenshot to paste. If anybody could let me know I would appreciate it. Print screen and ctrl V is not working. Sorry, apparently I am a bit computer illiterate. lol

You can either open the CSV in excel and save a copy as a text file and attach it or create a .Zip folder and put a copy in there and attach the zip.

You did all the work man, I just helped you get started

[racerg35335]

Believe me, I wouldn't have had the balls to do it without the help. Feel pretty comfortable with it now. ATR must not be to hard as long as you have a little knowledge.... a guy who doesn't even know how to post a log uses it. lol.
Hopefully this works!

Originally Posted by Ænema

You can either open the CSV in excel and save a copy as a text file and attach it or create a .Zip folder and put a copy in there and attach the zip.

You did all the work man, I just helped you get started

[racerg35335]

I do see a couple funky things going on with req boost/boost and actual load vs. req load. Maybe boost overshoot? Here is an additional log.

Originally Posted by Ænema

You can either open the CSV in excel and save a copy as a text file and attach it or create a .Zip folder and put a copy in there and attach the zip.

You did all the work man, I just helped you get started

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by racerg35335

I do see a couple funky things going on with req boost/boost and actual load vs. req load. Maybe boost overshoot? Here is an additional log.

Nah man, your logs look SOLID. Since you know both LTFT banks are good you can swap out one bank for STFT(for instance LTFT bank 1 and STFT bank 1.)

If you're using virtual dyno to look at the logs sometimes it will make it look like your overboosting when you're not. VD autoscales each individual channel, so it can make it look like some really goofy things are going on when they're not.

Honestly, i don't even use a grapher to look at datalogs. I prefer looking at logs in spreadsheet form. ATR has a built in datalog viewer that works great for viewing it as a spreadsheet.

[racerg35335]

Originally Posted by Ænema

Nah man, your logs look SOLID. Since you know both LTFT banks are good you can swap out one bank for STFT(for instance LTFT bank 1 and STFT bank 1.)

If you're using virtual dyno to look at the logs sometimes it will make it look like your overboosting when you're not. VD autoscales each individual channel, so it can make it look like some really goofy things are going on when they're not.

Honestly, i don't even use a grapher to look at datalogs. I prefer looking at logs in spreadsheet form. ATR has a built in datalog viewer that works great for viewing it as a spreadsheet.

Great! Thats what I wanna hear! I'll have to check them out in a different form. Atr is just too much fun!!!! I'd rather do this anyday over autotune. (No offense to the jb guys I know its a great product) cobb and atr really lets you know and learn the tune and understand exactly what is going on under the hood. You feel a bit of pride in learning and making proper adjustments. Its definitely for the true enthusiast!

[M5Rlz]

Why would going wot from stop cause like a pause [kinda like if you blew a shift point] almost and then full boost?

Also blinking/flashing DTS light?

DTS light was off before going WOT, and by that I don't mean totally disengaged, just off.


Also throwing P2AAF (quick search said its harmless, but figured I'd add it in just incase its relevant)
Thanks for any help!

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by 335i1

Why would going wot from stop cause like a pause [kinda like if you blew a shift point] almost and then full boost?

Also blinking/flashing DTS light?

DTS light was off before going WOT, and by that I don't mean totally disengaged, just off.


Also throwing P2AAF (quick search said its harmless, but figured I'd add it in just incase its relevant)
Thanks for any help!

You've already figured it out. Simply pushing the DTC button WILL NOT disable traction control. Part of the traction control system's operation is to close the throttle plate when it sees wheel spin. Once it sees the wheels stop spinning it opens the throttle back up.

2AAF is no big deal as long as it just appears by itself.

[racerg35335]

Originally Posted by 335i1

Why would going wot from stop cause like a pause [kinda like if you blew a shift point] almost and then full boost?

Also blinking/flashing DTS light?

DTS light was off before going WOT, and by that I don't mean totally disengaged, just off.


Also throwing P2AAF (quick search said its harmless, but figured I'd add it in just incase its relevant)
Thanks for any help!

Your traction control is kicking in. Hold the button for 3 seconds until it turns off if you are going to launch the car from a stop. Otherwise, dts will close the throttle to limit spinning. That is why it is falling on its face during a launch.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by Ænema

You've already figured it out. Simply pushing the DTC button WILL NOT disable traction control. Part of the traction control system's operation is to close the throttle plate when it sees wheel spin. Once it sees the wheels stop spinning it opens the throttle back up.

2AAF is no big deal as long as it just appears by itself.

Originally Posted by racerg35335

Your traction control is kicking in. Hold the button for 3 seconds until it turns off if you are going to launch the car from a stop. Otherwise, dts will close the throttle to limit spinning. That is why it is falling on its face during a launch.

lol sweet! I really appreciate it guys

I'm just oozing with newb-ness

Even at highway speeds when the traction control is on/limited when you totally turn it off you can almost feel the car get like lighter (or breath better might be a better way of describing it )

[M5Rlz]

If want to do a different map/ with linear do I need to uninstall and then install. The new map or can I just plug it in and overwrite?

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by 335i1

If want to do a different map/ with linear do I need to uninstall and then install. The new map or can I just plug it in and overwrite?

All you need to do is just swap maps, no need to uninstall. It shouldn't take more than a minute or two to swap maps.

[Tag]

Hey guys, looking for some insight. I installed Cobb running Stage 1 Sport and have been running it for nearly two months without issue. I really haven't gone WOT or hard on the car at all since I still have my winter tires on and it's too cold for spirited driving anyway. I've checked and the ECU shows no error codes etc. A few days ago I noticed that I didn't hear my Low Pressure Fuel Pump priming the car as it always did when I unlocked it. This has been going on for the past three days. Also, my car takes a tad longer to start unlike before where it was instant. I don't believe this is the HPFP as I've had that issue on my previous car before and this is nothing like that. For whatever reason my LPFP simply isn't priming the fuel system as it's suppose to.

What causes me to think this is something to do with the Cobb tune is when I initially installed the tune the LPFP ran for 10m straight. It really freaked me out but I couldn't stop the update in fear that I would brick the ECU. Now I'm wondering if that initially stressed the LPFP and is now on its last legs. After starting the car today I felt some slight hesitation while idling for about 1m, afterwards it warmed up and drove fine. There also doesn't seem to be any loss in power.

Again, if anyone has any insight into this it would be appreciated. Seriously thinking of ditching Cobb.

[MidwestGolfBum]

Originally Posted by Tag

Hey guys, looking for some insight. I installed Cobb running Stage 1 Sport and have been running it for nearly two months without issue. I really haven't gone WOT or hard on the car at all since I still have my winter tires on and it's too cold for spirited driving anyway. I've checked and the ECU shows no error codes etc. A few days ago I noticed that I didn't hear my Low Pressure Fuel Pump priming the car as it always did when I unlocked it. This has been going on for the past three days. Also, my car takes a tad longer to start unlike before where it was instant. I don't believe this is the HPFP as I've had that issue on my previous car before and this is nothing like that. For whatever reason my LPFP simply isn't priming the fuel system as it's suppose to.

What causes me to think this is something to do with the Cobb tune is when I initially installed the tune the LPFP ran for 10m straight. It really freaked me out but I couldn't stop the update in fear that I would brick the ECU. Now I'm wondering if that initially stressed the LPFP and is now on its last legs. After starting the car today I felt some slight hesitation while idling for about 1m, afterwards it warmed up and drove fine. There also doesn't seem to be any loss in power.

Again, if anyone has any insight into this it would be appreciated. Seriously thinking of ditching Cobb.

I have installed/uninstalled about a dozen or so times for various reasons between my 2 335s and the LPFP runs while doing it. I have never had an issue with the LPP, only the HPFP. How long has the car sat for when it isn't priming? Do you unlock the car before you are near it? Is it in the garage or something while you are in the kitchen, because mine primes then, and I never get it when I open the door. It could be the cold causing some of the longer starts as well. I have an 07 with an original pump that has had the tune on/off probably 8 times and have never had any issues. Not saying it isn't possible that it is the LPP, but seems like there could be other factors at play here, especially since you have had the tune installed for a few months.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Tag

Hey guys, looking for some insight. I installed Cobb running Stage 1 Sport and have been running it for nearly two months without issue. I really haven't gone WOT or hard on the car at all since I still have my winter tires on and it's too cold for spirited driving anyway. I've checked and the ECU shows no error codes etc. A few days ago I noticed that I didn't hear my Low Pressure Fuel Pump priming the car as it always did when I unlocked it. This has been going on for the past three days. Also, my car takes a tad longer to start unlike before where it was instant. I don't believe this is the HPFP as I've had that issue on my previous car before and this is nothing like that. For whatever reason my LPFP simply isn't priming the fuel system as it's suppose to.

What causes me to think this is something to do with the Cobb tune is when I initially installed the tune the LPFP ran for 10m straight. It really freaked me out but I couldn't stop the update in fear that I would brick the ECU. Now I'm wondering if that initially stressed the LPFP and is now on its last legs. After starting the car today I felt some slight hesitation while idling for about 1m, afterwards it warmed up and drove fine. There also doesn't seem to be any loss in power.

Again, if anyone has any insight into this it would be appreciated. Seriously thinking of ditching Cobb.

No, you're fine. Depending on how long the vehicle has been sitting the fuel system will lose pressure but it will not prime itself. I think there's a TSIB out for it now where the stealership will flash the DME to fix this, however i think the Cobb flash will revert it back to the old logic. Fortunately, It's not hurting anything.

[Tag]

Originally Posted by MidwestGolfBum

How long has the car sat for when it isn't priming? Do you unlock the car before you are near it?

From when I parked last night until I went to start it this morning the car sat for 12 hours in the garage, doors locked.

Originally Posted by MidwestGolfBum

Is it in the garage or something while you are in the kitchen, because mine primes then, and I never get it when I open the door.

I unlock the car as I'm walking up to it and I also don't start the car until the system is primed. The car has always primed itself upon unlocking the doors which is by design. This is the behavior stock or with the tune. This recent behavior is new and never happened before.

Originally Posted by MidwestGolfBum

It could be the cold causing some of the longer starts as well. I have an 07 with an original pump that has had the tune on/off probably 8 times and have never had any issues. Not saying it isn't possible that it is the LPP, but seems like there could be other factors at play here, especially since you have had the tune installed for a few months.

Sure, there are lots of other factors to consider with a slightly longer start and a slightly rough idle but that still doesn't explain why the LPFP is no longer priming the system.

[Tag]

Originally Posted by Ænema

No, you're fine. Depending on how long the vehicle has been sitting the fuel system will lose pressure but it will not prime itself. I think there's a TSIB out for it now where the stealership will flash the DME to fix this, however i think the Cobb flash will revert it back to the old logic. Fortunately, It's not hurting anything.

I've had my car for over 2 years and it's always primed the fuel system when I unlock the doors. If there's a TSB/SIB for LPFP I can't find one. I'm not convinced this is nothing to worry about.

Can someone from Cobb please chime in?

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Tag

I've had my car for over 2 years and it's always primed the fuel system when I unlock the doors. If there's a TSB/SIB for LPFP I can't find one. I'm not convinced this is nothing to worry about.

Can someone from Cobb please chime in?

I think I have noticed, if I leave my car unlocked over night (in the garage) sometimes I don't hear the prime. But for sure if it was locked, I always hear the prime upon unlocking. Comfort Access

[marv85]

My car with Cobb flash always primes after it's been off for a while.

[fabian]

heyho,

I`ve got two questions which drive me bananes here in the office without the change to get to my car ;-/
a few days ago my chargepipe poped off my throttle body during acceleration. After that I had nearly no power, no push from the turbo...
just had a few minutes to my garage where I fixed it. Afterwards I`m just wondering why there was no Enginelight, even no fault code was found with the AP.
Is this normal? I would expect a "boost under target" error or something like this, but nothing.

with this in mind I come to my second question ;-)
My current setup: 135i AT + DCI + AMS FMIC + Forge DV + Catback Exhaust + OTS Stage1+ Sport LT (no downpipes installed yet)

the car makes the expected power within the first 2-3 gears but at least at the 4th gear the power is a bit lagge before 4000rpm.
The car pulls until 4000rpm but feels a bit held and then after 4000rpm it REALLY makes power... the difference is very noticeable, like changing from 50% throttle to 100%

Still no Error codes.
Sitting here in the office I could imagine so many things but hmmm, what do you think?

- ECU learned bullshit because of the "now fixed" boost leak?
- Boost overshooted and is beeing retarded?
- Timing correction (logged about a month ago without timing corrections in the sports map but this was before FMIC, DCI, Forge DV install)
- Leaking Forge DVs? or maybe laggy DV reaction?
- another boost leak?

had no time and not really dry roads this days for logging ;-/

EDIT: or maybe this is due to the restictive oem downpipes which are still installed ?

[Slops]

Have you guys had timing pulled on one cylinder and none on the others? What will cause this?

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by fabian

heyho,

I`ve got two questions which drive me bananes here in the office without the change to get to my car ;-/
a few days ago my chargepipe poped off my throttle body during acceleration. After that I had nearly no power, no push from the turbo...
just had a few minutes to my garage where I fixed it. Afterwards I`m just wondering why there was no Enginelight, even no fault code was found with the AP.
Is this normal? I would expect a "boost under target" error or something like this, but nothing.

with this in mind I come to my second question ;-)
My current setup: 135i AT + DCI + AMS FMIC + Forge DV + Catback Exhaust + OTS Stage1+ Sport LT (no downpipes installed yet)

the car makes the expected power within the first 2-3 gears but at least at the 4th gear the power is a bit lagge before 4000rpm.
The car pulls until 4000rpm but feels a bit held and then after 4000rpm it REALLY makes power... the difference is very noticeable, like changing from 50% throttle to 100%

Still no Error codes.
Sitting here in the office I could imagine so many things but hmmm, what do you think?

- ECU learned bullshit because of the "now fixed" boost leak?
- Boost overshooted and is beeing retarded?
- Timing correction (logged about a month ago without timing corrections in the sports map but this was before FMIC, DCI, Forge DV install)
- Leaking Forge DVs? or maybe laggy DV reaction?
- another boost leak?

had no time and not really dry roads this days for logging ;-/

EDIT: or maybe this is due to the restictive oem downpipes which are still installed ?

It's probably that there just isn't enough gear eduction in 4th gear for the car to start pulling until you get some revs up. The catted DPs definitely aren't helping, either.