[Brule]

I seen some good logs of mmp turbos producing 20psi at 3200rpm in 4th and 30psi by 4000rpm.

They performed the same or better then vtt gc turbos.

[Brule]

Removed the front strut.

Now I need to make a custom tool to tighten the top new strut.

[NeT335]

I have to say brule you are a gun

On crutches and removing turbos and installing coilovers. Most people won't even look at their car if they were on crutches.

Good work man very dedicated

[Brule]

Cheers I'm definitely having a go.

On the border of crazy if watching from the neighbours perspective.

[T1M]

I gotta ask, with all the back and forth with different setups, why not just slap a big single on there? A 6466 size would be making mid 700's on a dynojet on E85 with port injection.

Have your goals changed over time hence the setups or do you just get bored quickly? I guess what I'm saying is work out where you want to be and get there via the shortest/most reliable path. That said I'm glad you have gained all the experience you have, if I ever do turbos I'll definitely have some questions for you!

[Brule]

Definitely not bored

It was and is very hard to pull out perfectly running turbos, especially when I'm happy with the power too.

I was happy with the power with rbs pre inlets on pump gas.


I planned to get evos before the stealths were built so it was a cheap turnaround.

I plan to use e40 and keep the fuel pumps in check and run moderate timing and boost to have fun at the drags and track.

[Brule]

And maybe meth to keep it cool at the drags.

Singles just seem too expensive and not really looking for massive power

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Brule

Definitely not bored

It was and is very hard to pull out perfectly running turbos, especially when I'm happy with the power too.

I was happy with the power with rbs pre inlets on pump gas.


I planned to get evos before the stealths were built so it was a cheap turnaround.

I plan to use e40 and keep the fuel pumps in check and run moderate timing and boost to have fun at the drags and track.

Why pull out perfectly good turbos brah??

[Brule]

These have efficient plumbing and housings.
I have been paying minimum for exchanging turbos

[T1M]

Yeah fair enough, I only ask as every change has been for bigger turbos so I figured you were chasing more and more power at the expense of bottom end torque and spool.

Singles are expensive, but if you know a fabricator who can make you a good manifold, you can make your own water and oil feeds/drains and have an exhaust/intake fabbed up to suit. Tuning isn't an issue anymore. But you would need to invest a few k for stage 3 pump and PI. It's a big investment overall.

[Brule]

If the three setup had a drag race the stealths would win.

For just daily driving the stealths still felt punchy as stockers.

Pi still seems dodgy

[T1M]

Originally Posted by Brule

If the three setup had a drag race the stealths would win.

For just daily driving the stealths still felt punchy as stockers.

Pi still seems dodgy

The stockers are almost too punchy, the peak torque at 3-3.2k thing makes the car a right handful but still only makes ~275wkw up top on 98.

I agree on the pi still seems dodgy thing. Will be good to see how the syvecs works out in reality after a few adopt them.

There's a 135i running stock ecu for everything except pi and triggering the extra pumps from a haltech...

[Brule]

Yea the problem is the dme can't tell how much fuel is going in no matter what system is putting it in.

I've been close to purchasing pi cause I just want to use e85 but..

No one's got syvecs up and running that I've seen

[T1M]

Well it can, it's still reading the AFR 's and you're firing the auxiliary injectors with the other ecu based on either boost or load. But it's not ideal. If something goes wrong afaik you can't drop boost if afr gets too lean using the stock dme. This is one of the things that hugely frustrates me about tuning BMW's. We're back in 2001 vs some popular jdm brands and VAG cars.

[Brule]

I have limited knowledge of pi and the dme and safety. If I knew more I might get it.

Even if the dme can see afr wouldn't it get confused why there's another 20-50% more fuel coming in.

If it's just run off load and your using a bit of pi the dme should still have failsafes?

[T1M]

I don't know if the dme has failsafes. From my experience they don't aside from knock detection and ignition retard in response to said knock.

Ok so imagine a wide open throttle condition, with the stock dme you are requesting a given afr under full load. Once you get over a certain % ethanol or run a huge turbo on 98, the HPFP can't supply enough fuel and the afr goes lean. The fuel trims try and compensate but if there's no more fuel to give that won't help any. Thats where PI comes into play.

You tune the dme with the secondary injectors firing at say 150 load. The dme is targeting say 12:1 afr. With the secondary injectors helping out, the HPFP and the stock fuel system doesn't need to work at 100% duty cycle anymore, it's at say 80% duty and the fuel trims are close to zero. You tune the car like that, job done.

What I don't think we can do on the N54 dme is have a value (say 13:1 afr) where if the dme senses this is breached it drops boost to a selectable value, say 5psi. We can do this on R35's, evos, wrxs etc. So far as I know, we can't on bmw platform.

[Brule]

Done the front struts the other day and it worked fine easy to adjust the height.
First time i lowered it too much and couldnt get the jack out.
2 minutes later it was adjusted and looking good.

Installed one of the rear springs and struts today.

I'm a bit worried about having limited adjustment for height.

Here some images of the height and where the collar and perch on has about another 10mm max to reduce the height.

So the rear is sitting about 25-30mm above the wheel and the adjustment i have is 10mm or less on the collar and perch.

What do you think?

[T1M]

Whats the suspension arm ratio around the fulcrum? 10mm drop at the coil might be 30mm at the hub

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Brule

Done the front struts the other day and it worked fine easy to adjust the height.
First time i lowered it too much and couldnt get the jack out.
2 minutes later it was adjusted and looking good.

Installed one of the rear springs and struts today.

I'm a bit worried about having limited adjustment for height.

Here some images of the height and where the collar and perch on has about another 10mm max to reduce the height.

So the rear is sitting about 25-30mm above the wheel and the adjustment i have is 10mm or less on the collar and perch.

What do you think?

Did you roll the car forward after lowering it to the ground on the jack? If not its not a valid indication of the ride height. The tyres will be bound up the road surface (the geometery means the tyres will push outwards as the car lowers, cant happen easily if the car is stationary)

[Brule]

OK I only pushed down on it with body weight.

I'll try and push it now..

[vtl]

Also you need to loosen all the links in the suspension then torque them down at ride height. Yes, its very tedious

Otherwise all the rubber bushings will be twisted and you might find the car won't sit as low (as the twisted bushings effectily act as a spring and resist the compression of the suspension)

[Brule]

Yea I loosened the control arm then tightened the bolts when it took load of the car weight.