[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Greatdane84

It's 6AT and I have dtc/dsc disabled and in DS mode

your challenge with AT was your kickdown. its tough to go WOT at 2500 RPMs. You should put a spacer under the pedal to STOP the pedal from hitting the KickDown switch. just push with your arm so you can feel the switch. the spacer is +- 5/16" of an inch. you should be in M3 @ 2500, click the AP to Log, wait a split sec to show logging, then WOT.

or you can just ease in the pedal, but my best is WOT at 3800k, anything before that most likely you will hit the kickdown, very hard to master.

its white trash but it will make your logging time worth while. If you do this ensure your AP shows 100% for Throttle Pos. before logging. you can just push the pedal all the way down with the AP plunged in. no need to have the car on.

read this
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Those IAT temp are high. You need a FMIC badly..

pretty standard for Stock FMIC. Heat-soak very quickly, which could also be the cause of his minor timing corrections.

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

if you had a boost leak, more than likely your would throw a code.

i always have -x.xx boost before going WOT, its pretty normal when APP is at 0 and cruising low RPMs.

read this thread:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

Thanks,

I checked the Requested Boost and Boost Mean Abs and the difference is +/- 1 so I guess I do not have boost leak but what bothers me is that I do not see a lot more negative pressure/vacum under the whole boost log. I never see more NEGATIVE boost/Vacum then -0.48 in the logs. Is this a COBB glitch or is something wrong with my car, because I see other forum user logs and they have -11.X when under vacum? Any turbo car that I have driven had vacum more way more then what my log shows. If anyone knows let me know.

[M5Rlz]

Guys had a new FMIC put on the car and today when attempting first WOT after getting the cobb on I got a poof noise and then the engine malfunction light and the code read something about boost control leak (I cleared the codes trying to see if they'd return... They didn't so I didn't grab the code number) I also had a code about coolant levels measuring ( I did save that code on my iphone, but its in the house as I'm flashing back to stock at the moment) These are both new issues as I'd been running stage 1 aggressive fine without a hitch

Could I have picked the wrong stage 1 FMIC map (their were like 3 sport ones)?

Power seemed fine after the engine light (not that I attempted a WOT) I did manage to be logging when it happened right now I'm flashing back to stock.

Is it advised to go WOT again/ try for a recreate or just go right to an indy/dealer?

Not exactly a great start into FBO mods.

[M3E46M]

I had a hard time adjusting clamps on my FMIC and if they didn't adjust them, most likely your clamps are either not tight enough or not aligned symmetrically causing boost leak. Check the FMIC silicone hoses and clamps. NO WOT until you figure out where the leak is.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by labedra

I had a hard time adjusting clamps on my FMIC and if they didn't adjust them, most likely your clamps are either not tight enough or not aligned symmetrically causing boost leak. Check the FMIC silicone hoses and clamps. NO WOT until you figure out where the leak is.

See I had a dealer do it so I'm guessing I need to go back to them although I guess if I cleared everything they won't see that its thrown a code.

Oh my first code right after install without even driving was P2ee6, my google search at the time of WOT was "pre control boost leak"

I did two logs and here they are attached.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

pretty standard for Stock FMIC. Heat-soak very quickly, which could also be the cause of his minor timing corrections.

I agree. Once I upgraded the intercooler the timing went away. I even went with a more aggressive map with no timing correction. Now I need to dial in more power. FMIC does wonder on these cars.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Guys had a new FMIC put on the car and today when attempting first WOT after getting the cobb on I got a poof noise and then the engine malfunction light and the code read something about boost control leak (I cleared the codes trying to see if they'd return... They didn't so I didn't grab the code number) I also had a code about coolant levels measuring ( I did save that code on my iphone, but its in the house as I'm flashing back to stock at the moment) These are both new issues as I'd been running stage 1 aggressive fine without a hitch

Could I have picked the wrong stage 1 FMIC map (their were like 3 sport ones)?

Power seemed fine after the engine light (not that I attempted a WOT) I did manage to be logging when it happened right now I'm flashing back to stock.

Is it advised to go WOT again/ try for a recreate or just go right to an indy/dealer?

Not exactly a great start into FBO mods.

Originally Posted by labedra

I had a hard time adjusting clamps on my FMIC and if they didn't adjust them, most likely your clamps are either not tight enough or not aligned symmetrically causing boost leak. Check the FMIC silicone hoses and clamps. NO WOT until you figure out where the leak is.

+100.
This is what probably happened

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

+100.
This is what probably happened

P30FF after looking around this is what I'm 97% sure my code was.

Guess its going back to the shop... Sigh

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

See I had a dealer do it so I'm guessing I need to go back to them although I guess if I cleared everything they won't see that its thrown a code.

Oh my first code right after install without even driving was P2ee6, my google search at the time of WOT was "pre control boost leak"

I did two logs and here they are attached.

Thanks for posting the logs and YES you have a boost leak. Just couple of logs reveal that requested boost and actual boost in manifold.

This is from your WOT:

Req. Boost Abs. (PSI) / Boost Mean Abs (PSI)

27.13 18.84
27.27 19.51
26.96 20.33
27.57 21.27
27.91 22.41
28.39 23.75
28.37 25.4
28.56 27.28
29 29.64
29.54 31.48
30.03 32.15
30.46 31.72
31.16 25.28
28.97 22.92
28.52 24.69
28.14 25.55
28.25 25.95
28.44 26.26
28.47 26.3
28.54 26.22

under WOT this shouldn't be different more then +/- 0.99 difference, if you hit +/- 1.0 i think you get a CODE. Definitely a boost leak from what I learned so far. Also looking at

Load Requested (load) Actual Load (load)
183.9 120.9

+/- 50 points will throw a code.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by labedra

Thanks for posting the logs and YES you have a boost leak. Just couple of logs reveal that requested boost and actual boost in manifold.

This is from your WOT:

Req. Boost Abs. (PSI) / Boost Mean Abs (PSI)

27.13 18.84
27.27 19.51
26.96 20.33
27.57 21.27
27.91 22.41
28.39 23.75
28.37 25.4
28.56 27.28
29 29.64
29.54 31.48
30.03 32.15
30.46 31.72
31.16 25.28
28.97 22.92
28.52 24.69
28.14 25.55
28.25 25.95
28.44 26.26
28.47 26.3
28.54 26.22

under WOT this shouldn't be different more then +/- 0.99 difference, if you hit +/- 1.0 you get a CODE. Definitely a boost leak from what I learned so far.

Ok so its for sure the FMIC installation? Would the dealer be able to ID this on a stock setup?

Also I'm now throwing a code that says "code missing" even after being fully uninstalled do I need to install a map and then uninstall again...

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

P30FF after looking around this is what I'm 97% sure my code was.

Guess its going back to the shop... Sigh

Yea, that's hardware related which i'm pretty sure the clamps wasn't tighten enough to the hoses.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Yea, that's hardware related which i'm pretty sure the clamps wasn't tighten enough to the hoses.

Thank god you guys know so much

I'm still at some point going to have to go WOT again to make sure its tight a moment I'm now dreading... Is this something only cobb will be able to reproduce, or if they push stock settings hard enough they'll find it?

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Thank god you guys know so much

I'm still at some point going to have to go WOT again to make sure its tight a moment I'm now dreading... Is this something only cobb will be able to reproduce, or if they push stock settings hard enough they'll find it?

Don't go wide open throttle. You won't have enough air to feed the the combustion chamber where air and fuel meets and while you have a more aggressive mapping than stock, it will misfire and get other codes.
Look with a flash light on the right hand side and if you can take the undercarriage cover off and check the claps in the bottom end where the intercooler ends.

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Thank god you guys know so much

I'm still at some point going to have to go WOT again to make sure its tight a moment I'm now dreading... Is this something only cobb will be able to reproduce, or if they push stock settings hard enough they'll find it?

I viewed you'r second log and you are not under boost, no WOT in there. There is only one way to find out, or fix the clamps your self.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Don't go wide open throttle. You won't have enough air to feed the the combustion chamber where air and fuel meets and while you have a more aggressive mapping than stock, it will misfire and get other codes.
Look with a flash light on the right hand side and if you can take the undercarriage cover off and check the claps in the bottom end where the intercooler ends.

lol scare me even more why don't ya. I'll have them do it, I paid enough for it... Appreciate you guys knowing so much.

I couldn't be more disillusioned after starting FBO.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

I couldn't be more disillusioned after starting FBO.

Only one way to know it is done right and that is to do it yourself.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Only one way to know it is done right and that is to do it yourself.

Then it would never get done

[M3E46M]

I never see more NEGATIVE boost/Vacum then -0.48 in the logs. Anyone know why? I'm using this map: Stg1+FMIC ST Sport IJE0S v402 Stock Throttle

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Don't go wide open throttle. You won't have enough air to feed the the combustion chamber where air and fuel meets and while you have a more aggressive mapping than stock, it will misfire and get other codes.
Look with a flash light on the right hand side and if you can take the undercarriage cover off and check the claps in the bottom end where the intercooler ends.

Because my confidence is somewhat shaken now, how would you advise me to test the car once they say its fixed, because honestly if they fix it in a few hours/ day I'll be worried to go WOT.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Because my confidence is somewhat shaken now, how would you advise me to test the car once they say its fixed, because honestly if they fix it in a few hours/ day I'll be worried to go WOT.

You're absolutely fine to go WOT. The DME is 100% closed loop. If anything is wrong it will compensate for it or throw a boost leak code/limp if necessary. The only way to test it is to hammer on it and see if it holds boost.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Because my confidence is somewhat shaken now, how would you advise me to test the car once they say its fixed, because honestly if they fix it in a few hours/ day I'll be worried to go WOT.

Have them take pictures of their work after completion. If its secured right, then floor it on the open road making sure it holds boost. Log whenever possible to make sure.