[blakdout335]

Any recomm on where to look for the Cobb AP at less than $895. That's all that I have seen.

Online now at BMS and going with the white cone DCI. They also have a new AA BMW FMIC that looks nice, going to see if there is a comparable one a little lower in cost, this one is $695.

The BMS DCI's look pretty easy to install. Any tips or pretty straight forward? Got a good start planned here, Tune, DCI and FMIC.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

Any recomm on where to look for the Cobb AP at less than $895. That's all that I have seen.

Online now at BMS and going with the white cone DCI. They also have a new AA BMW FMIC that looks nice, going to see if there is a comparable one a little lower in cost, this one is $695.

The BMS DCI's look pretty easy to install. Any tips or pretty straight forward? Got a good start planned here, Tune, DCI and FMIC.

Jeff@topgearsolutions can cut you a great price on an AP. Also, he can hook you up with a good FMIC. For the price, I really like the VRSF 5".

DCI install is pretty easy. It's been a couple years since I installed mine but I remember it wasn't hard at all. The only tip I have is that i recommend pulling the cowl to give yourself some room to work.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

I dunno @AltecBX I think I am going to disagree with you on 3&4. I would swap 3&4. It has mostly said on here that S1+ Agg. is better than S2. One may argue where one lives in cooler climates, upgraded FMIC isn't on their priority lists. It was a must here in Cali, FMIC before DPs. just my $.02

i was getting upwards of 140+ IATs with Stock FMIC on 2nd Pull, @ 90°+ OA.

From a person who tested all maps, especially 93 octane is my regular gas; I can say that yes S1+ pulls harder that S2. And of course different climate and different elevation affects what mods has a higher priority in which you should upgrade. @Blakdout335 is from VA, the weather is not as hot as in some dessert part of the states (CA, Nevada, Arizona).

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

Any recomm on where to look for the Cobb AP at less than $895. That's all that I have seen.

Online now at BMS and going with the white cone DCI. They also have a new AA BMW FMIC that looks nice, going to see if there is a comparable one a little lower in cost, this one is $695.

The BMS DCI's look pretty easy to install. Any tips or pretty straight forward? Got a good start planned here, Tune, DCI and FMIC.

Very straightforward, once you do it a few times it’s a 5 minute type deal. Only real advice I have is to remove the cowl as Aenema said, with it on you will go insane trying to fit the rear filter, let alone clamp it down. Once the cowl is off, the rear filter goes in with a bit of convincing, the front filter takes 30 seconds literally. Just be patient and you’ll be fine man.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

From a person who tested all maps, especially 93 octane is my regular gas; I can say that yes S1+ pulls harder that S2. And of course different climate and different elevation affects what mods has a higher priority in which you should upgrade. @Blakdout335 is from VA, the weather is not as hot as in some dessert part of the states (CA, Nevada, Arizona).

I regularly see 100+ ambient temps during the summer in VA and the humidity in the mid Atlantic is usually pretty bad. Combine that with how crappy the stock IC is and it's a no brainer IMHO.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by Ænema

I regularly see 100+ ambient temps during the summer in VA and the humidity in the mid Atlantic is usually pretty bad. Combine that with how crappy the stock IC is and it's a no brainer IMHO.

Of course, but I rather have the downpipes in that area for all around weather than the fmic. But at the end of the day, if you can do both get both.

[blakdout335]

Love the info and feedback. Thanks.

Already talking with Jeff@topgearsolutions, looking at a possible package deal, with Cobb AP, BMS DCI, and ETS IC. The ETS is a possibility, because of the cost, may still look at the VRSF.

How difficult is the install on the IC?

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

Love the info and feedback. Thanks.

Already talking with Jeff@topgearsolutions, looking at a possible package deal, with Cobb AP, BMS DCI, and ETS IC. The ETS is a possibility, because of the cost, may still look at the VRSF.

How difficult is the install on the IC?

1 hr of work if you know what you doing. It can take you 3-4 hrs if it's your first time doing it by yourself.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

Any recomm on where to look for the Cobb AP at less than $895. That's all that I have seen.

Online now at BMS and going with the white cone DCI. They also have a new AA BMW FMIC that looks nice, going to see if there is a comparable one a little lower in cost, this one is $695.

The BMS DCI's look pretty easy to install. Any tips or pretty straight forward? Got a good start planned here, Tune, DCI and FMIC.

Dude check out The DIY section. Plenty of great install how to's

[blakdout335]

I check em out constantly on things I am looking to do. Haven't seen one on VRSF or ETS intercooler. DCI looks pretty easy.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

I check em out constantly on things I am looking to do. Haven't seen one on VRSF or ETS intercooler. DCI looks pretty easy.

in this case you don't need to take off the bumper, 5" FMIC can go in when bumper is in place. With car jacked up, it helped with 1 other person to hold the bumper lip out of the way.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91461

for the most part, this works for the removal. the instructions with the FMIC should work fine for the install.


here is another one ETS on a 135i. again very similar, if not the exact same way you would do it.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433930



For DCI, the only thing that gets in the way is the DV piping, that's your worst issue. I have taken my DCI off many times. Pretty simple.


FYI, Google is a better search than E90 post. Just google your key words and 9 out of 10 time it points you back here.

[135Pats]

DCI you can do any time you can open your hood, it’s not at all difficult. FMIC isn’t “hard”, but it can be quite frustrating if you’re lying on your back with the car on ramps. If there’s any way you can get it on a lift, install will be far more comfortable/less stressful. But it’s absolutely a DIY in terms of what you are doing mechanically, and with a 5” like ETS or the smaller VRSF it really should be fairly simple. No trimming, no bumper removal.

[E92mech]

Originally Posted by Ænema

Your log wasn't that bad, but there are more corrections than what i would like to see. Try swapping over to the sport map and see how the corrections look then or try another brand of top tier gasoline and see if it helps.

Ænema, thanks- I'm going to do a few more pulls in the next few days when I can get my summer tires on. If these corrections are consistent I'll drop to sport.

How do stage 1+ sport maps compare to stage 1 non-FMIC aggressive maps? I ran the latter before and didn't have corrections.

[Jeffman]

I learned to drive on my father's 1980 320i...although grossly underpowered it had that Go-Kart handling that Bimmers **were** known for. "Flash-forward" to 2008 when I purchased my 335xi. The stock oem power was incredible compared to the 320i...I remember telling friends this car goes like a bat out of hell! Then shortly later (before any mods) I was driving down a particularly twisty road near me, the Kelly Drive in Philly, and thought I'd test that Go-Kart handling...WTF! Lots lots lots of body roll! WTF HAPPENED. That's when I started to look online for ways to improve handling...and that's when the mod bug started...in 2009 I went to VACMotorsports in South Philly and they recommended KWV1 coil overs, light-weight 18" wheels (Apex Arc-8), and NON-RUN FLAT Extreme Summer tires...Dunlop Direzzas which I hated because they were too noisy, I now have Michelin PSS. The suspension mods made a huge, Huge, HUGE improvement in handling...back to Go-Kart!

Then in 2011 came Cobb Stage 1 Agressive...yippee! Followed by the BMS DCI (wow! Hear those turbos spool up!). Then in 2012 came the Helix FMIC for Stage 1+ (Helix Motorsports is like 8 minutes from my house ), followed by a virtual Protuning Freaks Pro-Tune by Jake which was real nice, especially with the E85 available at the Shell Station at 11th and Vine!

(And I also installed my own Earthquake SWS Mid-bass speakers and Rockford-Fosgate amp to really improve the L7 sound system in early 2012...the OEM L7 is rather low fidelity...but this is for another forum... )

And just yesterday I got the Alpina B3 TCU flash, and several other things coded. I just love the M3 digital speedometer, not to mention the "new transmission".

So altogether, I'm really happy my 335xi evolved the way it did in this order:
1. Much Improved Suspension.
2. Power.
3. More power.
4. Even more power.
5. Transmission.

I hope you enjoy yours a much as I've been enjoying mine!

Good luck!

[Trout]

Hey Guys,

I just bought a new COBB AP recently and seem to have a slight problem with it. Who is the best person to talk to? I've tried the support on the Cobb website but they seem to be closed by the time I get off work. I've also put in a support request ticket online but haven't heard anything back on that either.

Thanks!

[App0602]

Hey all, I'm not sure if I should post this here or somewhere else, but anyway I'm looking to get a Cobb AP. I've heard that from time to time they go on sale for maybe 40 - 50% off and was wondering if anyone may know of where to buy.

I cant spend 900$ right now on a toy, but am in the market.

Do people usually sell them used??

Also, how often do you just run a Cobb AP as the only mod and how safe is it? I do not want to spend tons of time and money in other mods and/or repairs. I hardly ever run my car REAL hard, and never on a track... Just the occasional sprint home from work

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Trout

Hey Guys,

I just bought a new COBB AP recently and seem to have a slight problem with it. Who is the best person to talk to? I've tried the support on the Cobb website but they seem to be closed by the time I get off work. I've also put in a support request ticket online but haven't heard anything back on that either.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by App0602

Hey all, I'm not sure if I should post this here or somewhere else, but anyway I'm looking to get a Cobb AP. I've heard that from time to time they go on sale for maybe 40 - 50% off and was wondering if anyone may know of where to buy.

I cant spend 900$ right now on a toy, but am in the market.

Do people usually sell them used??

Also, how often do you just run a Cobb AP as the only mod and how safe is it? I do not want to spend tons of time and money in other mods and/or repairs. I hardly ever run my car REAL hard, and never on a track... Just the occasional sprint home from work

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Both of you should PM some vendors here, they’re honest and helpful. Mike@n54tuning or Jeff@TGS are both awesome, they’ll steer you in the right direction. Cobb AP’s do go up for sale from time to time, however they hold value pretty strong, I haven’t checked in awhile but last I saw they went for 6-700 or so used. The vendors above can both quote you a great price on a new one.

And your car will run fine on just a tune so long as you keep on top of wear items like plugs and over the longer term, coils. The stg1 maps are very safe and conservative with regards to timing and boost.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Trout

Hey Guys,

I just bought a new COBB AP recently and seem to have a slight problem with it. Who is the best person to talk to? I've tried the support on the Cobb website but they seem to be closed by the time I get off work. I've also put in a support request ticket online but haven't heard anything back on that either.

Thanks!

well what is your issue? some of us may be able to help as well.

[Trout]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

well what is your issue? some of us may be able to help as well.

When I plug the AP into my car, all it does is light up and show 4 lines of the word "COBB." It doesn't go to any other screen at all (even after waiting several minutes). I've tried two different ways of power cycling the car on and nothing (car still starts and runs fine after giving up).

I've searched and searched and can't seem to find any other instance of this happening. It does the same thing when I try to plug it into my computer(s) but I thought it had to sync with the car first before you could update it via the AP Manager software anyway. Any ideas?

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Trout

When I plug the AP into my car, all it does is light up and show 4 lines of the word "COBB." It doesn't go to any other screen at all (even after waiting several minutes). I've tried two different ways of power cycling the car on and nothing (car still starts and runs fine after giving up).

I've searched and searched and can't seem to find any other instance of this happening. It does the same thing when I try to plug it into my computer(s) but I thought it had to sync with the car first before you could update it via the AP Manager software anyway. Any ideas?

if I get it right, you haven't flashed yet. it seems your AP is defective based on what you're describing

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Trout

When I plug the AP into my car, all it does is light up and show 4 lines of the word "COBB." It doesn't go to any other screen at all (even after waiting several minutes). I've tried two different ways of power cycling the car on and nothing (car still starts and runs fine after giving up).

I've searched and searched and can't seem to find any other instance of this happening. It does the same thing when I try to plug it into my computer(s) but I thought it had to sync with the car first before you could update it via the AP Manager software anyway. Any ideas?

Is this new or used? Could this AP already be locked to a different car?

[Trout]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

Is this new or used? Could this AP already be locked to a different car?

Brand new, I'm guessing its defective too. I hope to hear back sometime today. Cobbs website said 1-3 days for a response, today is day 3.

UPDATE: COBB got back to me and they believe its defective. They will send me a new one and pay to have the old one sent back to them. Works for me!