[Brule]

Had code p2626 o2 sensor pumping current trim circuit/open bank 1 sensor 1.

Got another sensor off insanesam here and now I've got another code.

Previous o2 sensor I could use about 5psi of boost now using 1 psi it starts stuttering.

Got the code p0030 heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 1.

Old o2 sensors only had about 1000km on them. But had about 5 install and uninstalls.

I don't think the o2s are damaged.

I checked the fuse in the glove box(35) and it's good.

Not sure now...

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by Brule

Had code p2626 o2 sensor pumping current trim circuit/open bank 1 sensor 1.

Got another sensor off insanesam here and now I've got another code.

Previous o2 sensor I could use about 5psi of boost now using 1 psi it starts stuttering.

Got the code p0030 heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 1.

Old o2 sensors only had about 1000km on them. But had about 5 install and uninstalls.

I don't think the o2s are damaged.

I checked the fuse in the glove box(35) and it's good.

Not sure now...

What if it's a MOSFET inside the DME that is bad. It would make sense that no matter which O2 you use , it doesn't seem to work. Also I remember reading that if you changed out an O2 sensor it was best to change out both so that they are both within the same tolerance. In this case your last code would just make me think it is possible the MOSFET shorted and is giving heater power all the time or not at all, hence the error right at start up. You could check with a multi meter from the fuse to ground.
I will see if I can find any schematics or DME info .

Okay so to continue after you have found it has power through the fuse, you could move onto the heater wire circuit. Here is a schematic from the O2 sim. Ignore the wires tapped into and just focus on the O2 to DME wires. Test to see if you have heater power on the white wire. Or if you disconnect to check then it would be the Green with Red stripe wire.

[Brule]

Thanks I'll have a look tonight. I will have to buy a multi meter as I'm s carpenter and don't mess with wires.

I'll pull the intake first and check for damaged wires. Then get a multi meter and check the fuse then the wire and see what's not working.

[Brule]

I took the air filters off to have a look at the physical wiring and there's no damage.

I'll look into what the mosfet fix is.

[vtl]

MOSFET fix is for when you've got an injector that doesn't fire and its the fet in the dme driving it that's faulty. Not going to be your issue.

Id test the O2 heater wires to check if it's got continuity. Then check the pins on the dme sub connector for the same lines to rule out any wiring fault.

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by vtl

MOSFET fix is for when you've got an injector that doesn't fire and its the fet in the dme driving it that's faulty. Not going to be your issue.

Id test the O2 heater wires to check if it's got continuity. Then check the pins on the dme sub connector for the same lines to rule out any wiring fault.

There are more than just mosfets for injectors. There are other systems that require larger voltage and current than signal wiring.

Edit: and if they use the same part for injectors, it's most likely the same one for others.

[Brule]

considering they are single codes I don't think it's and mosfets , yet

Most people are getting burnt out mosfets during hard acceleration and have a few codes generally with coil and injector issues.

It is a Jan 2007 build so it's in the build where it's common.

I need to get a multi meter and check before going any further.

I currently have a house with a roof off and there's a lot of rain and a bit of wind around so I have to get that sorted before I can spend time on the car

[///Mposter]

Don't be confused by acceleration and MOSFETs blowing. Think of them like relays but in digital form. Larger power passes through them and a smaller signal wire controls the opening and closing. In this case it's a three prong MOSFET and power is waiting to be supplied to your O2 heater. When you turn the car on and no power is going to the sensor heater circuit, there will be a fault.
Any of the following could have happened. You damaged wiring and it shorted. You dropped the O2 sensor and the heater element broke. The MOSFET reached its life cycle and quit.

It's just a theory, and if I had more time I could even check it as a have a friend's bad DME somewhere in the garage. I would also need at that point the PIN numbers at the DME connector so see which MOSFET it was. Sorry I don't have the info. I just remember Rob talking about it years back and trying to get a schematic out for them.

[Brule]

I finally sorted out my o2 sensor issue!

My original sensor I still think is fine.
It just had a reading out of range some how? I don't really know.

Tried a 2nd hand black long one and the heater element didn't work in it.

All 4 sensors were working via logging on Schwaben tool, they moved between .1 and .7 just giving slight revs.

Put the other 2nd hand short grey sensor in. I just re rooted it across the top of the engine to test it. It works fine.

Only used max 9.8psi boost on the drive.

[///Mposter]

Great news you got it sorted out! Happy new year.

[Hoper]

Awesome news Brule, glad to know you've sorted it out, onwards and upwards mate, looking forward to seeing what it can do when you get it out to the races

[Brule]

Went out to do some logs and just enjoy really.

Just put my normal mix of 20L Bp ultimate and 20L of barrelled e85.

Mhd was playing up for an hour and a half.

I couldn't get logging to work it kept switching back to the "flash map" tab or just becoming a black screen or saying obd2 isn't connected.

Didn't stop me from having fun ..So went and slowly built up to a 3rd wot to around 4500rpm.

Did a few 2nd gear testing lsd in wet conditions, it works.

But dyno said I got min 15 hp and ft lb to go with no change in tune.

Overall it "feels the same as rb stealths but with power coming on 500rpm earlier with a mild increase of power felt from 3500rpm"

Only logs will tell, screw you mhd! my Samsung tablet which is only used for mhd id probably the issue.
I'll get the tablet online and see if there's an mhd update to try and get logging.

[Brule]

I'll post all my rb turbo virtual dynos to compare.

I will show virtual dynos in three forms dyno jet, dyno dynamics and mustang in hp ft lb and kw nm.

[Brule]

Just picked up my Vorshlag camber plates this morning. Nice looking heavy things.

I just need my Megan racing toe arms to arrive and I can fit all my bushings, m3 bits and sway bars. Happy new year

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Brule

Just picked up my Vorshlag camber plates this morning. Nice looking heavy things.

I just need my Megan racing toe arms to arrive and I can fit all my bushings, m3 bits and sway bars. Happy new year

Loving the build mate.... happy new years... hope you get it to the drags soon

[Brule]

Need a new tablet the Samsung is stuffed, had it a year and only used it for mhd.
Just had it working tonight, then going to log it wouldn't stop logging then it just turned off, forever. Had 98% battery.

It was randomly turning off a few times yesterday and tonight too.

I'll go to office works tomorrow and get a $100 tablet

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Brule

Need a new tablet the Samsung is stuffed, had it a year and only used it for mhd.
Just had it working tonight, then going to log it wouldn't stop logging then it just turned off, forever. Had 98% battery.

It was randomly turning off a few times yesterday and tonight too.

I'll go to office works tomorrow and get a $100 tablet

Is it covered under warranty or > 12 months?

[Brule]

Probably, not sure if I have a receipt.

All I want to do is boost!

Last thing that I thought would stuff up is a tablet.

My car suspension has settled about 10mm lower all round it's low as a P plater.

[Brule]

Bought another tablet and it's still playing up.

Mhd is playing up big time flicking from monitor to tune without touching anything.

I get into monitor and log for a maximum 15 secs live data then it goes dead displaying 0 for data and updates to say insert cable even though the red lights on the cable and it was just reading live.

Getting pretty annoyed at it.

Car is running real well which is goid

[JB4-335]

Originally Posted by Brule

Bought another tablet and it's still playing up.

Mhd is playing up big time flicking from monitor to tune without touching anything.

I get into monitor and log for a maximum 15 secs live data then it goes dead displaying 0 for data and updates to say insert cable even though the red lights on the cable and it was just reading live.

Getting pretty annoyed at it.

Car is running real well which is goid

Sounds like it's time for a JB4

[Brule]

Lol
Maybe I can complicate things further...

I literally have no time for any car stuff. Maybe two hours a week

I just want my car tuned ASAP.

Next up I'll have to try new cables which will take another two weeks

[Brule]

It's just so torquey all over I just want to hold wot in 3rd 4th but I know I can't.