[Ænema]

If you're having boost leaks then you are going to have them regardless of the map. On a STOCK car the most likely culprits may be the diverter valves, however try calling some local shops and see if they can perform a smoke test... assuming you don't have any obvious loose connections, of course.

[davidwarren]

Originally Posted by tarponman85

Same thing happens to me.

I have no idea why.

well, at least are not alone.
I assume it is a weak battery. I'm not getting any other funkiness or battery warnings, however. I took it to the dealer for it the first time, and of course, it was working again then... But at least they have a record of it happening.

edit- I also very frequently get a 10-30 second delay in the stereo kicking on when I start the car. No sound (not even seat belt gong), display, etc... So perhaps that is also a sign of a bad battery.

[kctim]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

For those taking their car to the dealer for warranty work, are you all flashing to a stock map or are you completely "unmarrying" the COBB from your vehicle? Or are these actions one in the same?

As a rule of thumb, it's best to unmarry.

I will say after unmarrying and taking my car into the dealership to troubleshoot a very minor hiccup at idle ( happened after installing new spark plugs go figure), my service adviser called and asked me if I had a "juicebox" installed on the vehicle. He then said that he wasn't trying to void any warranties (I'm still in warranty) but his tech couldn't properly diagnose the car because there was no data to pull from or analyze. The tech told my SA he most commonly associated the "way my car was acting" with having a Juicebox installed or previously installed. I of course denied it, because hey I didn't have a "juicebox" installed . Later on, after hearing the SA and tech recommend a particular tune for my car ( not dinan) I felt ok about admitting the fact my car was usually running a cobb tune. My SA then told me to just leave the tune on the car for future visits so they could properly diagnose the vehicle. However, I will say after just blowing a charge pipe, the same tech and adviser denied warranty coverage because it was connected to my aftermarket FMIC. Bottom line, it's odd how dealership's treat mods. You never know what they throw up a red flag for.

I have since spoken with Cobb on the issue and come to my own conclusion, drive your vehicle a decent bit before taking it in, after you unmarry it. Otherwise, there will be very little data stored in the dme. Just my 2cents. All the previous dealer visits where I unmarried cobb a day or two before the visit, they never mentioned anything.

[Jeffman]

+1 on driving for "a bit" after unvarying before taking it in to the dealer. That's exactly my experience as well.

[cwarren]

Originally Posted by usctrojansdent

Okay. I read up on it.
Disable DTC.
Rev to 2500 RPM
Hit start
Floor it until the half engine light on.
Let off on the gas.
Hit stop

Here's what I got:



No other modification to car
Stock.

Is it common for Boost Leak to occur on DRIVE map?
That means i can go higher than 4000-45000 RPM with triggering this CEL?
Thanks

log starts at 4500 lol oh well yep def a boost leak and don't matter what map your on . seems like a pretty good one to me too. going to have to go through it piece by piece and find out where or smoke test it .

[135Pats]

Latest E30 log from last night, i'm pretty happy with this one. Those pesky overshoots have been dialed out and everything else looks pretty good to my eyes. Car seems a bit happier after running some techron and pump gas through it following a few months of E30, maybe the injectors were getting a bit gunky. Aquamist goes in next

[napeHbNYC]

Hey, guys, I installed Cobb Stg 2+ agr(have fmic, dps, exhaust, intake, running 93 oct). On the first run my car threw a misfire. I expected that and had the plugs ready. Swapped them and it was fine for a month or so. Today I WOTed my car a few times and it started to misfire again and among codes for misfire, threw 2C6B and 2C32 as well as low fuel level misfire or something like that. And of course a limp mode code. The car was at below quarter tank but no gas light at the time. Its a 2010 e90 with just above 20k miles. Do these cars go in limp mode if low fuel level or is it something wrong with my car? I drove another 4 miles to get to work and by the time I got there(driving granny style) the car went back to normal. Thank you!

Update: check O2 sensor positioning and all is good-black on the front pipe, grey on the rear.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by napeHbNYC

Hey, guys, I installed Cobb Stg 2+ agr(have fmic, dps, exhaust, intake, running 93 oct). On the first run my car threw a misfire. I expected that and had the plugs ready. Swapped them and it was fine for a month or so. Today I WOTed my car a few times and it started to misfire again and among codes for misfire, threw 2C6B and 2C32 as well as low fuel level misfire or something like that. And of course a limp mode code. The car was at below quarter tank but no gas light at the time. Its a 2010 e90 with just above 20k miles. Do these cars go in limp mode if low fuel level or is it something wrong with my car? I drove another 4 miles to get to work and by the time I got there(driving granny style) the car went back to normal. Thank you!

Update: check O2 sensor positioning and all is good-black on the front pipe, grey on the rear.

Pull the exact codes of possible, its going to be tough sledding to diagnose without them.

Amount of fuel in the tank shouldnt matter unless were talking running out of fuel, which isnt the case here.

[napeHbNYC]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Pull the exact codes of possible, its going to be tough sledding to diagnose without them.

Amount of fuel in the tank shouldnt matter unless were talking running out of fuel, which isnt the case here.

I cleared the codes already. Should I make another run to make it misfire again?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by napeHbNYC

I cleared the codes already. Should I make another run to make it misfire again?

Yes try to reproduce it and get the codes.

[jaykayelemenohpee]

If I have a boost leak will I definitely throw a code? Even a small one? I'm at 6500 ft and I'm peaking at about 14psi but not throwing any codes. I'm assuming the elevation has something to do with it but a 4.5psi lower peak than sea level?

[USCTROJANSFIGHTON]

Originally Posted by cwarren

log starts at 4500 lol oh well yep def a boost leak and don't matter what map your on . seems like a pretty good one to me too. going to have to go through it piece by piece and find out where or smoke test it .

Hey Cwarren..and other folks (please chime in)

I did another run with Stage 0 (STOCK MAP) starting close to 2500 RPM...and flooring it......DTC off.
The 30FF code does not come on.
The half engine light does not come on.
I did a couple of run.

So it means i dont have a boost leak with a Stage 0 map at full range of RPM...but with Stage 1 Drive map, I get a boost leak at 4000-5000 range..

I check the vaccum line by the canister: Good
Vaccum line behind the oil filter:Good

My boost with stage 0 map never goes beyond 9.8 Psi.
Range 8.5-9.5
Mean is about 8.0psi.

Is it safe to say 11.0 psi is too much for the system to withstand without throwing a 30FF code?


thanks

[135Pats]

Have you checked the cold side charge piping? Lots of places for leaks to spring up there. Or the hot side intercooler coupler.

[Carl Morris]

Originally Posted by jaykayelemenohpee

If I have a boost leak will I definitely throw a code? Even a small one? I'm at 6500 ft and I'm peaking at about 14psi but not throwing any codes. I'm assuming the elevation has something to do with it but a 4.5psi lower peak than sea level?

I'm in Denver and have done some pretty wacky things with my boost, and I have a bypass valve that seems to hang partially open sometimes, and so far I've never yet thrown a code. Are you saying that you're running a map that you would expect to generate 4.5psi more boost than you are currently seeing?

[jaykayelemenohpee]

Originally Posted by Carl Morris

I'm in Denver and have done some pretty wacky things with my boost, and I have a bypass valve that seems to hang partially open sometimes, and so far I've never yet thrown a code. Are you saying that you're running a map that you would expect to generate 4.5psi more boost than you are currently seeing?

I would expect to be hitting 18.5 PSI on the cobb maps. When I first installed it I was. The last time I logged in phoenix I couldn't pass ~16psi and I threw a boost leak code, the first I've ever seen. I tightened up my IC hoses and still did not hit 18psi. Brought it to my mechanic and he claimed there was no leak.

Now Ive moved to the middle of nowhere and I'm boosting ~14psi on stage 1+ and stage 2+. I would assume theres a boost leak and the altitude is having some effect but I really don't know where to start looking now. Nothing is obviously messed up from a visual inspection and there isn't a mechanic where I am.

From looking at my logs I need to back off timing on stage 2+ because I'm getting some corrections on 2 @ 5k and huge corrections on 4 @ 3k. I'll have to pull another log but I dont even have internet for help. I'm going to try and figure out how to dial back timing on those stage 2 maps and see what I come up with. I love the way boost builds on the 1+ maps but the 2+ maps just feel like crap in my car with the timing pulls and less aggressive boost buildup.

[tphss]

Originally Posted by jaykayelemenohpee

I would expect to be hitting 18.5 PSI on the cobb maps. When I first installed it I was. The last time I logged in phoenix I couldn't pass ~16psi and I threw a boost leak code, the first I've ever seen. I tightened up my IC hoses and still did not hit 18psi. Brought it to my mechanic and he claimed there was no leak.

Now Ive moved to the middle of nowhere and I'm boosting ~14psi on stage 1+ and stage 2+. I would assume theres a boost leak and the altitude is having some effect but I really don't know where to start looking now. Nothing is obviously messed up from a visual inspection and there isn't a mechanic where I am.

From looking at my logs I need to back off timing on stage 2+ because I'm getting some corrections on 2 @ 5k and huge corrections on 4 @ 3k. I'll have to pull another log but I dont even have internet for help. I'm going to try and figure out how to dial back timing on those stage 2 maps and see what I come up with. I love the way boost builds on the 1+ maps but the 2+ maps just feel like crap in my car with the timing pulls and less aggressive boost buildup.

I'm not sure now how much PSI I get constantly on stg1 sport map on my n54. But I'm pretty sure it's about 16-17PSI.

On my AccessPort I have recorded a maximum boost level of 20.0PSI.
Is it normal I get 20PSI boost peaks?

[JStang]

Originally Posted by tphss

I'm not sure now how much PSI I get constantly on stg1 sport map on my n54. But I'm pretty sure it's about 16-17PSI.

On my AccessPort I have recorded a maximum boost level of 20.0PSI.
Is it normal I get 20PSI boost peaks?

You are likely just getting boost spikes to 20 PSI.

[Carl Morris]

Originally Posted by jaykayelemenohpee

I would expect to be hitting 18.5 PSI on the cobb maps. When I first installed it I was. The last time I logged in phoenix I couldn't pass ~16psi and I threw a boost leak code, the first I've ever seen. I tightened up my IC hoses and still did not hit 18psi. Brought it to my mechanic and he claimed there was no leak.

You may need to pressure test yourself to be sure, but if he's right then I think that just leaves bypass valves or vacuum system controlling the wastegates. Yeah, at 5000-6000ft I normally hit 17-18psi momentarily with the Stage1+ OTS map when I first get full boost.

[napeHbNYC]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Yes try to reproduce it and get the codes.

From what I remember, the codes were for cylinders 4-6 misfire, the 2 I posted, limp mode code and low fuel level code.

Is it possible car could have a do fix installed on it? Got is used and when went to install DPs, everything was hand tight lol How do I check?

[mg4734]

Hi guys,

I just took a log of my car, stock except for cobb, running stage 1 sport with 93 octane Shell.traction control completely off, if I remember correctly it was a second gear pull (couldn't get out at the right time of night for a 3rd or 4th gear pull...) I have attached a zipped csv file.

I see some minor timing corrections in the log, which I chalk up to having almost 32k miles on original spark plugs. They need to be changed... Otherwise the car feels like it runs fine. Does the log look ok?

If I understand the numbers in the log correctly though, it looks like I am over-boosting. Boost delta is negative at one point, and it is pushing 16psi at one point (too high for stg1 sport?). How can I fix the over-boost? I have ATR but do not know how to use it.

Thanks in advance for the help!

[135Pats]

For the most readable log, you need to stay 100% WOT from the beginning of the log all the way until redline.

Cyl 1 is pretty noisy in that first log, and there's a timing retard taking place as well. So swapping plugs is a good decision. No serious overboost issues that need to be trimmed, I think you're mistaking boost with the requested vs provided channels.

[cwarren]

Originally Posted by usctrojansdent

Hey Cwarren..and other folks (please chime in)

I did another run with Stage 0 (STOCK MAP) starting close to 2500 RPM...and flooring it......DTC off.
The 30FF code does not come on.
The half engine light does not come on.
I did a couple of run.

So it means i dont have a boost leak with a Stage 0 map at full range of RPM...but with Stage 1 Drive map, I get a boost leak at 4000-5000 range..

I check the vaccum line by the canister: Good
Vaccum line behind the oil filter:Good

My boost with stage 0 map never goes beyond 9.8 Psi.
Range 8.5-9.5
Mean is about 8.0psi.

Is it safe to say 11.0 psi is too much for the system to withstand without throwing a 30FF code?


thanks

running higher boost is going to show your weak points . you def have a problem if you cant run 11 psi . could be diverter valves ,piping ,or vac lines or a bad boost solenoid even hard to say .I would start by buying some vac line and just replace it all its cheap and a great place to start.
also bad timing corrections in that first log .what fuel are you running to get those stock ?