[Welterweight]

No codes three or four different maps. FBO. Happens occasionally. Hoping its a Cobb norm.

[bplant13]

Originally Posted by Welterweight

No codes three or four different maps. FBO. Happens occasionally. Hoping its a Cobb norm.

No, that is not normal. Strange that you're not getting any codes, or CEL. Best bet is to try and capture logs when it's happening, and post them up here, or send them to Cobb's support group. The logs will show why and what's happening.

[iceman175]

http://datazap.me/u/iceman175/stage-...=0&data=3-4-17

Those are 2 data logs I did this morning. I have been running stage 1 st sport for about a year and decided to try out stage 1 st aggressive. any input on how they look or what can be improved would be appreciated. thank you

it was 45 degrees outside, stage 1 st aggressive map, 93 oct gas. did a 3rd gear pull 08 335xi sedan mt with 105,000 miles, all stock with drop in cobb filter.

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by ImGone92

Sorry, probably been discussed already but I just got ptf tune and now keep getting code for fuel pump plausibility, why would this be? I'm currently fbo

You need to get this resolved with your tuner, as they would know best how to resolve your issue unless its strictly hardware related

If they can't resolve the issue, and its not hardware related, then let me know, BuraQ@mybmw335is.com but first give them a chance to correct the problem, sometimes one fix may not do it, and it may take multiple fixes

[Royal-motorsport]

Originally Posted by bplant13

Look at the version of the particular map on ypu AP, and make sure it's the most current one on Cobb's website. The manager will update from time to time, but it doesn't mean there was an update to all the maps. I don't think the stage 1 maps have changed in several years.

I ended up just installing the map thats in the cobb already, pretty happy with the result

[zhu]

Can anyone tell what's wrong with my car?

http://www.datazap.me/u/zhu/log-1430...6-100&mark=109

Throttle is opening after I let off the gas??
And boost builds slow..

Running stage 1+ drive lt

[bplant13]

Originally Posted by zhu

Can anyone tell what's wrong with my car?

http://www.datazap.me/u/zhu/log-1430...6-100&mark=109

Throttle is opening after I let off the gas??
And boost builds slow..

Running stage 1+ drive lt

That is very strange. You should contact cobb support and have them look at it.

[ImGone92]

The other code I'm getting is for air intake sensor, I forgot the code. I am currently in the process of communicating with my tuner, seeing if I can get it resolved. Hoping it's nothing major, and can hit the spots again.

[Renner335i]

I'm having a issue with wastegate rattle on stage 2 vargas. ive been playing around with atr and starting to understand it. I heard somewhere you would want to work in the wgdc spool setting if I'm correct. My rattle is under 2500 when cruising and on decel. Can anyone give me some pointers on where to begin?

[bplant13]

Originally Posted by Renner335i

I'm having a issue with wastegate rattle on stage 2 vargas. ive been playing around with atr and starting to understand it. I heard somewhere you would want to work in the wgdc spool setting if I'm correct. My rattle is under 2500 when cruising and on decel. Can anyone give me some pointers on where to begin?

You can tune it out, but I'm surprised you have it begin with, with new Vargas turbos... For God sakes man, get a pro tune! With an off the shelf map, you're simply increasing spool up time and lag, with the larger compressor wheels, and not taking advantage of the turbos.

[francoline]

So let me start by saying I have searched through the forum and have read the cobb related issues that commonly happen (especially those with catless downpipes)... but I still cannot find a good place to continue trouble shooting my issue.

Briefly, I was running a stage 1 tune with just under the hood boltins with no problem. When I added the AR pipes and AFE exhaust and switched to Stage 2 sport the problems began. I will skip the boring stuff and get to the codes that remain:

P2C7B
P2C7E
P2C2B
P2C7F

I have had lean codes - cause was crap gas in Las Vegas and those are gone.
The HPFP has been replaced after those codes appeared.
All four O2 sensors have been replaced and we have reverified the sensors are in the correct location.
All injectors have been replaced within the past 10k miles
I had the carbon cleaning last month
New spark plugs one degree colder last month.

With the cobb in the car it takes about 15 miles for the codes to appear. I completely uninstalled the COBB and about 80 miles later the 4 codes above apepared.

The car runs perfect until the codes appear. Then, the AFR at idle jumps from 14 to 21-22. I lose about 6-8 pounds of boost down from 16 psi. some of this is intermintent.

I am not throwing the typical DME error codes so those services don't want to touch it.

I am open to any and all suggestions. This is my first BMW and the turbo cars I am used to dealing with are my 2001 Audi A6 2.7 and 2011 Nissan Juke. So basically I know nothing.

Thanks.
__________________

[clemsonkev]

after a few years of perfect Cobb driving, I now notice some jerky acceleration recently (like an ON/OFF boost switch while flooring it). Do a need a new pro-tune every few years? something else? 90k miles on the car now.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

after a few years of perfect Cobb driving, I now notice some jerky acceleration recently (like an ON/OFF boost switch while flooring it). Do a need a new pro-tune every few years? something else? 90k miles on the car now.

Reset the ECU using the AP and drive it hard...the car will re learn. That should clear things up.

[clemsonkev]

Originally Posted by FL335

Reset the ECU using the AP and drive it hard...the car will re learn. That should clear things up.

Appreciated. So I assume my device has an ECU RESET option. Then I simply reload my custom tune file?

[FL335]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

Appreciated. So I assume my device has an ECU RESET option. Then I simply reload my custom tune file?

No need to reload the tune. Just reset the ECU and drive it. The tune that is loaded will be the one on the ECU. GL, brother. I hope it works.

[bplant13]

Originally Posted by francoline

So let me start by saying I have searched through the forum and have read the cobb related issues that commonly happen (especially those with catless downpipes)... but I still cannot find a good place to continue trouble shooting my issue.

Briefly, I was running a stage 1 tune with just under the hood boltins with no problem. When I added the AR pipes and AFE exhaust and switched to Stage 2 sport the problems began. I will skip the boring stuff and get to the codes that remain:

P2C7B
P2C7E
P2C2B
P2C7F

I have had lean codes - cause was crap gas in Las Vegas and those are gone.
The HPFP has been replaced after those codes appeared.
All four O2 sensors have been replaced and we have reverified the sensors are in the correct location.
All injectors have been replaced within the past 10k miles
I had the carbon cleaning last month
New spark plugs one degree colder last month.

With the cobb in the car it takes about 15 miles for the codes to appear. I completely uninstalled the COBB and about 80 miles later the 4 codes above apepared.

The car runs perfect until the codes appear. Then, the AFR at idle jumps from 14 to 21-22. I lose about 6-8 pounds of boost down from 16 psi. some of this is intermintent.

I am not throwing the typical DME error codes so those services don't want to touch it.

I am open to any and all suggestions. This is my first BMW and the turbo cars I am used to dealing with are my 2001 Audi A6 2.7 and 2011 Nissan Juke. So basically I know nothing.

Thanks.
__________________

Are you catless? Have you used a DP fix at any given time? If not, I'd take it to the dealership (hopefully still under warranty). If you are catless, you will get codes without the cobb, but it sounds like you've got a wiring issue with the O2 sensors. Wires could have been crossed on the DP install.

[bplant13]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

Appreciated. So I assume my device has an ECU RESET option. Then I simply reload my custom tune file?

Using your AccessPort, go to the troubleshooting menu, check to see if there are any codes while you're there, in case something's is wrong. If not, use the reset ECU option, and you're done. However, I don't beleive that will solve you're problem...

When was the last time you changed your plugs, coils or had a intake carbon cleaning? There are several factors that can contribute to jerky acceleration.

Capturing logs while the problem occurs will help identify the problem as well. Get help from a pro tuner, or Cobb if is an off the shelf map. Or post the logs up here.

[clemsonkev]

Originally Posted by bplant13

Using your AccessPort, go to the troubleshooting menu, check to see if there are any codes while you're there, in case something's is wrong. If not, use the reset ECU option, and you're done. However, I don't beleive that will solve you're problem...

When was the last time you changed your plugs, coils or had a intake carbon cleaning? There are several factors that can contribute to jerky acceleration.

Capturing logs while the problem occurs will help identify the problem as well. Get help from a pro tuner, or Cobb if is an off the shelf map. Or post the logs up here.

great advice, thanks! I'll tackle next weekend.... gotta show my Mom some love today; and my wife - also a Mom!

[francoline]

Originally Posted by bplant13

Are you catless? Have you used a DP fix at any given time? If not, I'd take it to the dealership (hopefully still under warranty). If you are catless, you will get codes without the cobb, but it sounds like you've got a wiring issue with the O2 sensors. Wires could have been crossed on the DP install.

So I am catless and have not used a DP fix.
Double and triple checked the wiring on the O2 sensors and replaced all of them. I am not doing the work myself.... Eurotek in Las Vegas is doing it.
I know I would throw codes without the Cobb...but those would be emissions based codes, not the exact same codes I get with the Cobb? Right....

I didn't think the DP fix would address the codes I am getting?

Appreciate the help

[bplant13]

Originally Posted by francoline

So I am catless and have not used a DP fix.
Double and triple checked the wiring on the O2 sensors and replaced all of them. I am not doing the work myself.... Eurotek in Las Vegas is doing it.
I know I would throw codes without the Cobb...but those would be emissions based codes, not the exact same codes I get with the Cobb? Right....

I didn't think the DP fix would address the codes I am getting?

Appreciate the help

I went catless, and no problems, but when NY emissions inspections time came, I bought the DP fix. I had it professionally install, and reverted my ECU back to the stock map. Everything was good, once my readiness monitors came into check, after a week of driving, I went in for inspection and passed. I then had my DP fix removed, reinstalled my Cobb, and started getting several codes, similar to what you have. Pre cat and post cat trimming, lean, rich, etc. the shop couldn't help me, but after researching, the DP fix instructions were wrong. I have the E90 maintenance manual, and every wire on the ECU has a unique identifier except for the 2 post cat O2 sensor wires. Both are yellow; one had a black mark. The DP fix instructions said that the black mark went to a certain pin, but it was wrong, and once I reversed the wires, everything was ok. If I had installed the DP fix myself, regardless of instructions, I would have marked the wires with what pin the came out of to begin with. Long story short, you may just have some wire backwards on the O2 sensors.

[spxxx]

I manually went through a ton of threads and made a little google doc with the info, here it is (you may recognize some of the info as a lot comes from this BB and n54tech where I spend most of my time) - Also, please correct anything that is wrong.... I'm somewhat new to wgdc tuning and really want to improve my skills... Here's most of the PID/WGDC tables we have access to. (I take zero responsibility for the info in this post)

Also, let me know if anyone wants to try my maps... I have a few, mostly for ijeos

here we go...

ADDER/CEILING:
With the way the X and Y axis are labelled it’s hard to hold boost up top (max = 333)….16psi at 6Krpms is 460g/s - I like to rescale them based on real SP & Airflow...
- I leave the WGDC base table scale stock for tuning the mid-range RPM then rescale the adder/ceiling table to take care of adjusting boost at high RPM

Notes for using this method:
Boost can be added using the WGDC Adder along with the WGDC Ceiling. Raising these require modifying the PID tables as you will be WAY above boost mean abs.

Adder (Airflow): Adds global WGDC to the base table based on airflow.

Ceiling (Adder): This is the max WGDC that can be added by PID to the base. If maxed you need to increase it. Be careful though, depending on your load targets you could get a substantial increase in boost. When making changes.... increase by an additional value of 5 to 10 in the last 2 or 3 cells. As long as you don’t max after PID channel you are basically OK - make changes in units of 5????

Keep in mind that there is a "Adder ceiling" table and a “WGDC Limit" table that will both need to be raised if you hit them. I just set the adder ceiling table higher than I set the adder table to keep it out of the way and WGDC limit table I set at 80% max
WGDC BASE TO ADJUST BOOST:

GENERAL > Increase WGDC Base # = More Boost
Over shooting boost > reduce wgdc table based on location of MAP Requested WGDC (Airflow) and Boost setpoint factor intersect.

Under boost > add wgdc to the intersection point (add in segments of 5-10%)

wgdc adder > if you don't hit targets add to the last column (333) on most tunes we’re over the wgdc airflow amount of 333 so just focus on the last column OR Increase the WGDC adder/ceiling table beyond 333 to increase boost

WGDC Tables

Mainly make sure WGDC after PID is adding DC and within its limits… too much, or maxed PID could indicate some issue with the hardware. WGDC Bank 1 is the final output to the solenoids and should be used if comparing to other people, tunes, potential boost issues, run to run, etc.

WGDC Base: a direct correlation to WGDC output in %. But we only have a narrow range to work with as many have experienced. Req MAF is the calculated desired flow through the engine… simply, dependent on rpm/PR. Factor is req MAP / baro. You can log both of these channels for reference and to point you in the right area of the base map.

Pre-control: basically off boost WGDC… potentially useful in reducing rattle. More closed, faster response. If part throttle is too responsive you could also try reducing it. Zeroing out the entire table will NOT effect DC during spool since this is only at lower loads, but it can effect response. The more closed increases psi available pre-throttle. MAP log channel is pre-throttle pressure. Boost log channel switches between pre/post throttle MAPs.

Spool: Tough to tell when the DME is using spool tables. You can see spool in the logs. Do a run starting at 3k rpms and take note of the load/MAP channels around 4-4.5k… then do a run starting at 4k and observe the same rpm range. You’ll notice boost to load values being different… IIRC req MAP will be lower at the same req load… it’s pretty easy to see, I just don’t remember the specifics. I assume this is spool to the DME. Doesn’t really effect our tuning at this time with the current ATR knowhow/access.

D-factor Multiplier: in my opinion its easier to adjust the multiplier table then the factor table. D is the anticipated future error… lower will be smoother, but will stray more from the setpoint. Higher will try and keep closer to setpoint. > D-factor slows down P-factor > so if you move it

Cobb overdid it reducing the WGDC D-factor multiplier table as much as they did. You can get faster response reducing damping that much, but then you get the overshoots that seem to cause so many issues.
I would recommend before touching the D-factor map itself, is try going back to the factory D-factor multiplier table and see what you think.

Dynamic: no idea (I WANT TO KNOW THIS)

MV: Manipulated Variable - FINAL BOOST LEVEL

I-factor: factor added in calculating the final variable based on historical error. Basically reduce value to reduce oscillations and increase value to keep closer to setpoint.

P-factor: largest contributor to manipulated value… the response to immediate error. Same effects as I-factor to oscillations but to a greater degree. With any sharp boost corrections might be due to too large/small P-factor changes.

NOTE: since the DME can over react with overshoots, it could be beneficial to have a higher PID factor with positive boost errors.

Tuning at lower Load: I prefer to tune at a lower load range, to ensure that I can hit my targets consistently and smoothly then once I’m successful here I can “turn it up”. The reasoning is that with higher targets you can’t observe the DME’s full reaction, cause it will never hit the targets. Once you can hit targets as desired the more aggressive tuning will perform better…

Cheers!

[francoline]

Originally Posted by bplant13

I went catless, and no problems, but when NY emissions inspections time came, I bought the DP fix. I had it professionally install, and reverted my ECU back to the stock map. Everything was good, once my readiness monitors came into check, after a week of driving, I went in for inspection and passed. I then had my DP fix removed, reinstalled my Cobb, and started getting several codes, similar to what you have. Pre cat and post cat trimming, lean, rich, etc. the shop couldn't help me, but after researching, the DP fix instructions were wrong. I have the E90 maintenance manual, and every wire on the ECU has a unique identifier except for the 2 post cat O2 sensor wires. Both are yellow; one had a black mark. The DP fix instructions said that the black mark went to a certain pin, but it was wrong, and once I reversed the wires, everything was ok. If I had installed the DP fix myself, regardless of instructions, I would have marked the wires with what pin the came out of to begin with. Long story short, you may just have some wire backwards on the O2 sensors.

Ok... I will give the post cat sensors a shot.
We went by the product ID numbers on the sensors when we verified and we "reversed the pre cat sensors" at one point and that set off even more codes.
The post cat are much easier to swap so I will give that a chance. Thanks.