[torqueisking]

Originally Posted by remlemasi

I've had the electrical delete for a while now and just recently decided to remove the entire EGR cooler.

I used coolant line caps and exhaust plate from Matt.

Cut the vacuum line going to the cooler and plugged it with a screw. The sensor connector is just left hanging.

EGR valve is still intact and covered with another plate even though the electrical delete should keep it closed.

I'm now receiving the following codes:

4CAE
485C
4D87

The car runs and feels just just but want to confirm that these are normal and expected codes without a tune. Can you guys help?

TIA!

These are expected. First code is caused by disconnecting the black wire, 2nd is caused by removal of the EGR cooler bypass vacuum switch and 3rd is caused by removal of the EGR cooler temp sensor.

I left the vacuum switch and temp sensor connected which is why my only code was a 4CAE. Not sure if you will see the mileage increase with them disconnected.

[335dsleeper]

PM me for egr only delete tune info.

[e90Noobie]

Is anyone able to get away with the EGR delete in Cali? Please say yes.

[remlemasi]

Originally Posted by e90Noobie

Is anyone able to get away with the EGR delete in Cali? Please say yes.

Originally Posted by torqueisking

These are expected. First code is caused by disconnecting the black wire, 2nd is caused by removal of the EGR cooler bypass vacuum switch and 3rd is caused by removal of the EGR cooler temp sensor.

I left the vacuum switch and temp sensor connected which is why my only code was a 4CAE. Not sure if you will see the mileage increase with them disconnected.

Thank you. Very helpful! Is your gut saying mileage will be better or worse with the sensors left attached?

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

PM me for egr only delete tune info.

This is something I may look into. Do you know if I'll be able to pass CA inspections with an EGR-only delete tune? If so, this would allow me to remove the valve as well for a full EGR delete.

Will performance be better than JBD piggyback?

Originally Posted by e90Noobie

Is anyone able to get away with the EGR delete in Cali? Please say yes.

This is my first time deleting the EGR cooler. Prior to this I was running block-off plates on both ends, but leaving the cooler and valve in place. For the past two inspections (every 2 years), I went through the trouble of removing the block-off plates, letting the readiness monitors do their thing, and reinstalling the plates after I pass smog. Kind of a pain, but only once every two years.

If an EGR-only delete tune can make this problem go away, then I may move forward with it. Obviously, it may or may not pass visual inspection depending on the tech and what they are looking for.

If the tune won't help passing inspection, then I'll just resort to re-installing the cooler once every two years, similar to the block-off plates.

[e90Noobie]

Originally Posted by remlemasi

Thank you. Very helpful! Is your gut saying mileage will be better or worse with the sensors left attached?



This is something I may look into. Do you know if I'll be able to pass CA inspections with an EGR-only delete tune? If so, this would allow me to remove the valve as well for a full EGR delete.

Will performance be better than JBD piggyback?



This is my first time deleting the EGR cooler. Prior to this I was running block-off plates on both ends, but leaving the cooler and valve in place. For the past two inspections (every 2 years), I went through the trouble of removing the block-off plates, letting the readiness monitors do their thing, and reinstalling the plates after I pass smog. Kind of a pain, but only once every two years.

If an EGR-only delete tune can make this problem go away, then I may move forward with it. Obviously, it may or may not pass visual inspection depending on the tech and what they are looking for.

If the tune won't help passing inspection, then I'll just resort to re-installing the cooler once every two years, similar to the block-off plates.

How do you move the portion of the EGR cooler out of the way of the exhaust manifold without removing the cooler to install the block off plate?

[Yozh]

Disconnect it enough to slide it in.

[6thbustedknuckle]

Did leaving the EGR attached while running a race pipe really work without issues?

[The HACK]

Need to smog for registration, plugged wire back and code check engine code does not clear? Does it take multiple drive cycles for the code to “reset?” Or do I need my mechanic’s help?

[danas]

Originally Posted by The HACK

Need to smog for registration, plugged wire back and code check engine code does not clear? Does it take multiple drive cycles for the code to “reset?” Or do I need my mechanic’s help?

What are you using to reset it ? I tried TorquePro with no success. for some reason it wouldnt reset this code. Carly for bmw did the trick.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by danas

What are you using to reset it ? I tried TorquePro with no success. for some reason it wouldnt reset this code. Carly for bmw did the trick.

Just the GoPoint BT1 dongle with the free GoPoint OBD2 app. I'm using the GoPoint dongle for Harry's Lap Timer.

If I have to step up to a Carly I might as well just take it to my mechanics and see if he can reset it.

[p0lar]

So I've been doing some research on this and would like to see what it takes to build an EGR emulator (amongst others). I found what appears to be its wiring diagram. In it, the x2459 connector pins are labeled as follows:

• Pin 1, T_AGRNEG, White w/Yellow stripe,
• Pin 2, T_AGRPOS, Gray w/Green Stripe,
• Pin 3, U_5V_2, Blue w/brown stripe, Voltage supply (???)
• Pin 4, M_AGR, Brown w/Green stripe, Ground exhaust gas recirculation positioner
• Pin 5, A_AGR, Black, Actuation of exhaust gas recirculation positioner

I'm presuming pins 1/2 are what power the solenoid itself. Pin 3 is unknown still, but typically U_xV is a denotation of a voltage supply of some sort, possibly an analog signal which could be feedback from the solenoid. Pins 4/5 are the M_AGR and A_AGR respectively, with M_ being the ground and A_ being the actuation (as per general BMW TIS/MB tech info). I think those are simple PWM, but haven't had access to test this yet. From everything I can find, the color markings on the wires line up with this particular connector, along with the 1-5 marking on the inside of the connector.

If my suspicions are correct, removing Pin 4 should also yield a 4CAE DTC. Removing pins 1/2 would prevent the solenoid from moving at all, but I'm not sure which code would be thrown. I'm out of town at the moment, but will have access to more data next week -- in the mean time, if someone feels like doing some testing as to what codes are thrown by removing pins 1-4 one at a time, but keeping pin 5 connected, that would definitely help. If not, I'll get to it soon enough.

References:

• Original TDiWyse thread

[335stoner]

i made one... go to page 3 post 66

use a metal band saw and cut the motor directly off the egr and plug that in after you install a race pipe.. you can even put your engine cover back on

[p0lar]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

i made one... go to page 3 post 66

use a metal band saw and cut the motor directly off the egr and plug that in after you install a race pipe.. you can even put your engine cover back on

I saw that, actually -- don't dispute at all that it is effective, only that if I can build an emulator for something as simple as the EGR, I can most certainly build one for quite a few other components in the same vein. It's probably more an academic exercise than anything, but interesting no less!

[chriscpmtmp]

So the idea would be to avoid a tune? That would be nice.

Originally Posted by p0lar

I saw that, actually -- don't dispute at all that it is effective, only that if I can build an emulator for something as simple as the EGR, I can most certainly build one for quite a few other components in the same vein. It's probably more an academic exercise than anything, but interesting no less!

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by p0lar

I saw that, actually -- don't dispute at all that it is effective, only that if I can build an emulator for something as simple as the EGR, I can most certainly build one for quite a few other components in the same vein. It's probably more an academic exercise than anything, but interesting no less!

absolutely go for it!! that would be a fun project for sure

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by chriscpmtmp

So the idea would be to avoid a tune? That would be nice.

in theory if you could simulate a fully functioning emission system then yes you could remove everything and avoid a tune. It would probably would cost just as much as a tune considering you can have a delete only reprogram for $500.

i think the main point of his project is to be able to completely remove the egr after installing a race pipe. you would still get a SES because you would have no exhaust flow through the system.

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by p0lar

So I've been doing some research on this and would like to see what it takes to build an EGR emulator (amongst others).

You would also have to fool the maf somehow, because when egr is being used, the dde looks for reduced fresh air flow.

[p0lar]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

in theory if you could simulate a fully functioning emission system then yes you could remove everything and avoid a tune. It would probably would cost just as much as a tune considering you can have a delete only reprogram for $500.

i think the main point of his project is to be able to completely remove the egr after installing a race pipe. you would still get a SES because you would have no exhaust flow through the system.

Reprogramming the DDE isn't particularly difficult, I'm just speculating as to what would be required to avoid it for those who want to emulate factory functionality and don't want to spend $500 to delete a few codes, which is absurd.

I finished the EGR cooler delete today, mine wasn't horrible, but I'm glad I got it done when I did. It's throwing a P0401 code, insufficient EGR flow. I still have the original EGR connected and tied out of the way, vacuum line plugged, but did have to construct a new CCV hose as mine broke in the process of reattachment. I've ordered another one from AARodriguez's site for $19 (shipped), but used a small section of heater hose for now.

[Spyro235]

Originally Posted by p0lar

Reprogramming the DDE isn't particularly difficult, I'm just speculating as to what would be required to avoid it for those who want to emulate factory functionality and don't want to spend $500 to delete a few codes, which is absurd.

I finished the EGR cooler delete today, mine wasn't horrible, but I'm glad I got it done when I did. It's throwing a P0401 code, insufficient EGR flow. I still have the original EGR connected and tied out of the way, vacuum line plugged, but did have to construct a new CCV hose as mine broke in the process of reattachment. I've ordered another one from AARodriguez's site for $19 (shipped), but used a small section of heater hose for now.

Any progress on the emulator?

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by flynryan

so you will get a check engine light??????? Thats the only thing that is holding me back.

yes ANY mod you do to the EGR will get you a check engine.. a tune is the only way to avoid it.

[robnitro]

Not all tunes can delete the egr and still let you pass emissions.
So this mod is better because you can reverse it a month before inspection to get obd readiness.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Not all tunes can delete the egr and still let you pass emissions.
So this mod is better because you can reverse it a month before inspection to get obd readiness.

Any ideas on which tunes will pass readiness?