[nicklockard]

Originally Posted by JTC1

Where is everyone ordering their Tstat from? I know someone in another thread said they ordered from Rock Auto. Is that a safe bet?

I think mine was from FCP Euro. Behr part.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by JTC1

Where is everyone ordering their Tstat from? I know someone in another thread said they ordered from Rock Auto. Is that a safe bet?

OEM t-stat from ECS. Was about $60 shipped also ordered the 4 bolts, but to my surprise the old ones looked just fine. I replaced them anyway for piece of mind.

[_TB_]

Originally Posted by JTC1

Where is everyone ordering their Tstat from? I know someone in another thread said they ordered from Rock Auto. Is that a safe bet?

Koed.dk

[TDIwyse]

My first online delivered thermostat had a hairline crack in the housing that extended under the gasket. I sent it back...

[digitaldav]

Originally Posted by JTC1

Where is everyone ordering their Tstat from? I know someone in another thread said they ordered from Rock Auto. Is that a safe bet?

Thats where I get all my parts from. Just got my Tstat from them last weekend.

[JTC1]

Originally Posted by digitaldav

Thats where I get all my parts from. Just got my Tstat from them last weekend.

Which one did you order? I was looking at the Mahle.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by JTC1

Which one did you order? I was looking at the Mahle.

I used the Beck/Arnley one from rockauto. Still working correctly 2-ish years later which means its sadly at least as good as the OEM one

[digitaldav]

Originally Posted by JTC1

Which one did you order? I was looking at the Mahle.

I too used the Beck/Arnley one from rockauto.

[vladmury]

Hi guys,On M57 325d I changed both thermostats Egr and main after car was warming up very fast ( in 5 km water was up to 80, after 9 km up to 90 and stable)

Now last days I was checking again and surprise after 15 km water rose from 11 to 60C , after 35 km water was at 82-84. This is not normal to warm up that slow.

I changed the egr stat but no change. I will replace main stat again( note the old one is also original bmw), doubt it will fail after 3 months. Besides that is there something else that will create a slow warmup?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by vladmury

Hi guys,On M57 325d I changed both thermostats Egr and main after car was warming up very fast ( in 5 km water was up to 80, after 9 km up to 90 and stable)

Now last days I was checking again and surprise after 15 km water rose from 11 to 60C , after 35 km water was at 82-84. This is not normal to warm up that slow.

I changed the egr stat but no change. I will replace main stat again( note the old one is also original bmw), doubt it will fail after 3 months. Besides that is there something else that will create a slow warmup?

Is your coolant system properly bled to get air out of system?

Out North American 335d don't have EGR thermostats by the way. Another consideration is your local weather temp but 35 km=21 miles sounds like a long way to warm up, I agree. My warm up is more like 4 miles=6.4 km but Houston much more warm than Denmark right now.

[mob17]

Originally Posted by TorqueAddict

If your car was reaching 172-176 (77-80 C), your thermostat was most likely fine. All i could get my car to was 60-63, doesn't matter how'd i drive. No hand calculated MPG's but my tank with similar driving styles and routes used to last me ~570-650kms max. After the replacement, on winter fuel, i hit 780Kms on the tank, which is quite noticeable.

Now within 10-15 minutes of my drive to work the temperature rises to 80+ C easily, and car drives and behaves differently. Tranny is more smoother. I have been driving this car for over 4 years now - everyday. I can feel the difference in behavior. May be it never got out of warm up cycle ever (never in closed loop)

Another thing that i can relate to this is glow plug controller/glow plugs. Mine failed last winter, which caused me to monitor temperature. According to BMW training document, the glow plugs also work intermittently if your engine isn't warm enough - as a result low temps = overworked controller and plugs hence leading to failure.

My glow plug controller has failed i think. I get some rough starts when its cold. I haven't replaced it as i thought i have deleted my dpf that the glow plugs are then used just to start.

If i dont replace what could happen? Should i, as i dont have a dpf?

[vladmury]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Is your coolant system properly bled to get air out of system?

Out North American 335d don't have EGT thermostats by the way. Another consideration is your local weather temp but 35 km=21 miles sounds like a long way to warm up, I agree. My warm up is more like 4 miles=6.4 km but Houston much more warm than Denmark right now.

After my last change of thermostats in October, I bleed the system and everything was ok. I did not monitored the temperature since December , now outside was -5 that morning could it be the reason for the slow warmup?

what is not normal is after temp reaches 88, if I slow down or drive moderately the temp strarts decreasing close to 82, before once it was up to 90 it will not move from there

[vladmury]

UPDATE; After main stat change, the coolant temp goes up to 96 and around 93-94 degrees C on highway. I have seen also 97 C at idle after a highway run.

Do you think 97 is too much? I had the impression it should stay at 90-91, now I am concerned that new thermostat might be bad as well aghhhhhw

[_TB_]

97 is just fine.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by _TB_

97 is just fine.

Is your radiator fan cycling off and on? I was told fan should come on at 92C from trust worthy source. Once again, let the system self bleed by idling with reservoir cap off and heater running. This is about only time I recall getting fan to run. My system rarely breaks above 90C.
Please let us know if that 97 continues.

[_TB_]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Is your radiator fan cycling off and on? I was told fan should come on at 92C from trust worthy source. Once again, let the system self bleed by idling with reservoir cap off and heater running.

You can use the aux. pump to bleed the system - then you do not have to have the engine running

[Laursdahl]

Originally Posted by vladmury

UPDATE; After main stat change, the coolant temp goes up to 96 and around 93-94 degrees C on highway. I have seen also 97 C at idle after a highway run.

Do you think 97 is too much? I had the impression it should stay at 90-91, now I am concerned that new thermostat might be bad as well aghhhhhw

Hej.. Min gør nøjagtig det samme.. Læste et sted at grunden til bmw ikke har vand temp. i min bil er at den kan flytte sig en del og unødigt forvirre brugeren..

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by _TB_

You can use the aux. pump to bleed the system - then you do not have to have the engine running

Lucky you for having that auxiliary pump. I'm not positive for all 3 production years that North America got the 335D but my 2011 didn't get this. I have seen my coolant hit 93C after driving on freeway and then come home and park in garage but car still running. It then slowly settled down to 85-86C range. To be clear, car was in 80s until I parked and radiator lost air flow and then went to 93C. I wonder if that T/S just needs to settle in. I do agree the 97C doesn't pose an issue but your fan will run more.

Hey look at it this way, you may get a longer T/S use interval than the rest of us as they all seem to slip down the slope of slowly but surely decreasing control point.

[vladmury]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Is your radiator fan cycling off and on? I was told fan should come on at 92C from trust worthy source. Once again, let the system self bleed by idling with reservoir cap off and heater running. This is about only time I recall getting fan to run. My system rarely breaks above 90C.
Please let us know if that 97 continues.

Actually after first night I noticed the coolant level was on minimum, even if was filled and bleed the past day. I topped up to max and bleed the system once again. Now it stays at 91-92 stable. Actually the fan came on at 97 but I need to mention in the past there was never need for the fan as the temperatures did not reach 97 C. So I think the reason the engine ran hotter it was because of the lower coolant level.

If you think the temperatures of 82-86 degrees C is normal, this is bulshit. It should stay with original thermostats at 89-92 , in any case it should be over 89. And in max 10 km it should warm up to 80-85 no matter of the outside temperature.

[TorqueAddict]

Originally Posted by vladmury

If you think the temperatures of 82-86 degrees C is normal, this is bulshit. It should stay with original thermostats at 89-92 , in any case it should be over 89. And in max 10 km it should warm up to 80-85 no matter of the outside temperature.

These temps are possible on a 'stock' car. Deleted vehicles report lower temperatures due to the obvious reasons.

[BB_cuda]

Sorry, I quoted my own experience. I don't have an EGR cooler so no heat from it comes into coolant system. From several conversations with stock guys, there is about a 3C difference when running down freeway at steady cruise.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by vladmury

If you think the temperatures of 82-86 degrees C is normal, this is bulshit. It should stay with original thermostats at 89-92 , in any case it should be over 89. And in max 10 km it should warm up to 80-85 no matter of the outside temperature.

There may be different thermostats. My OEM one that failed was stamped with 88C. And that seems to be the correct temperature most of our 335d run at. 325d may have a 89C or 92C thermostat, it may be a bit different.