[Unklejoe]

[EDIT]: Still on the original HPFP. I'm just waiting for that to go bad.

Sorry for the late response. I hardly have time to check the forums anymore.

When I last posted in November of 2017, I had 183,000 miles.

Now I have a little over 193,000 miles.

The only thing that has happened since then was that my HVAC blower motor went bad. I replaced it with one of the $60 ones from Rock Auto. It took about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, the replacement went bad in about 1 week.

So, I decided to order the $80 one from Rock Auto... hopefully this one lasts a little longer.

At the end of the day, I'm sure I'll be forced to order an OEM one and end up spending more than if I had just done that in the first place...

Originally Posted by MiamiM3

I am curious what oil you have been running and if you used the same oil consistently over the 183,000 miles.

I've been running Mobil 1 0w40 since I bought the car with ~40k miles. I change it about every 10,000 miles. Also, I've been using OEM filters the whole time since they come with new O-rings and a washer.

Originally Posted by Bours

Thats one hell of a reliable car you got there !!!

You are still on original radiator ? Original coolant hoses ? What about coils ?!

All original coils.

Upper radiator hose was replaced, but that was more of a preventative thing. I had a leaking oil filter housing gasket for a while which was leaking on to the belt, which ended up flinging oil on to the upper radiator hose. The oil caused the hose to swell (but not leak), so I replaced it just in case.

I also replaced the radiator, but not because it went bad. I had a cracked water pump (the plastic housing on the front) and thought the leak was coming from the radiator, so I ordered the replacement. Then, when I removed the bottom panel, I noticed that the radiator was fine, but since I already had the replacement, I installed it.

Originally Posted by dleccord

Isn’t this the same transmission on N54’s? If so theyre pretty reliable, no?

Yes, same transmission. I'm not the most abusive driver, but I have done many WOT pulls with the car, and the transmission has never given me an issue. I've also done some bad things to it during the process of making my own map (via xHP).

[Bours]

Originally Posted by Unklejoe

[EDIT]:


Yes, same transmission. I'm not the most abusive driver, but I have done many WOT pulls with the car, and the transmission has never given me an issue. I've also done some bad things to it during the process of making my own map (via xHP).

have you ever flushed tha at fluid ??? do you notice some jerky shifts or slip ? im at 100 k miles and wondering and i should change teh fluid....

[katatonia]

Originally Posted by Unklejoe

[EDIT]: Still on the original HPFP. I'm just waiting for that to go bad.

Sorry for the late response. I hardly have time to check the forums anymore.

When I last posted in November of 2017, I had 183,000 miles.

Now I have a little over 193,000 miles.

310,000km... that's incredible dude. Makes me almost not want to sell my high mileage (120,000km) car. Lol. Thanks for the info.

[Bours]

Originally Posted by andreu12qw

Thank you for this! I have a May '11 build N55 with 111,150 miles. I average over 600 miles a week (due to work). Change oil every 5-7k miles with Liqui Moly 5w40. Will be happy to supply feedback for anyone with questions.

Power Mods:
Cobb AP with Stg 1 Sport W/FMIC tune
Cobb Chargepipe
Wagner Tuning FMIC
K&N panel Filter

I have had 3 Blackstone lab reports done and they all have come back glowing. I can upload if anyone is interested. I have experienced some weird noises since I purchased a year ago but nothing serious has come up. The car has been to two HPDE events and the car/ engine held up well!

Yea im interested ! Can you upload plz ?

[SnapCoupe]

I have been struck. 2011 335i with 82k miles. All preventative maintenance done, oil changes with BMW 5W-30 every 6k miles, never drive the car hard until oil is up to temp.

Driving around 50 mph in 4th gear and I feel a slight hesitation but no weird noises, turn into my driveway and put the clutch in, RPMS drop to zero and the car wouldn't start back up. 20 minutes later the car fires up and drives normally. The next morning it developed a knock.

[xxMike61]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

I have been struck. 2011 335i with 82k miles. All preventative maintenance done, oil changes with BMW 5W-30 every 6k miles, never drive the car hard until oil is up to temp.

Driving around 50 mph in 4th gear and I feel a slight hesitation but no weird noises, turn into my driveway and put the clutch in, RPMS drop to zero and the car wouldn't start back up. 20 minutes later the car fires up and drives normally. The next morning it developed a knock.

Does it run? Could you post a video of what the engine sounds like?

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by xxMike61

Does it run? Could you post a video of what the engine sounds like?

Runs fine but does feel like something is wrong, like funky throttle response. You can only hear the knock when around 2k RPM. I'll post a video if I have a chance.

[9krpmrx8]

This is why I test my oil. It's tough to say what would have helped, but 5W-30 at 6000 mile intervals is risky IMO.

[xxMike61]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

This is why I test my oil. It's tough to say what would have helped, but 5W-30 at 6000 mile intervals is risky IMO.

This is something I've been wondering about... Like how long does it take for it to be too late for the engine? Even if doing 5k intervals with oil tests and they come back fine, like what's stopping the engine from spontaneously developing knock?

[northbranchroad]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

I have been struck. 2011 335i with 82k miles. All preventative maintenance done, oil changes with BMW 5W-30 every 6k miles, never drive the car hard until oil is up to temp.

Driving around 50 mph in 4th gear and I feel a slight hesitation but no weird noises, turn into my driveway and put the clutch in, RPMS drop to zero and the car wouldn't start back up. 20 minutes later the car fires up and drives normally. The next morning it developed a knock.

What mileage did you get the car?

Are you often redlining / driving the car super hard?

Did you have any modifications?

Sorry this happened man, just trying to gather as much info as possible on his topic.

[northbranchroad]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

This is why I test my oil. It's tough to say what would have helped, but 5W-30 at 6000 mile intervals is risky IMO.

Why is 6,000 mile interval oil change on 5w-30 risky? Isn’t that what bmw recommends to put in these cars?

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

This is why I test my oil. It's tough to say what would have helped, but 5W-30 at 6000 mile intervals is risky IMO.

How so? BMW recommended is somewhere around 8k miles depending on how hard the car is driven. 5W-30 is also factory recommended.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by northbranchroad

What mileage did you get the car?

Are you often redlining / driving the car super hard?

Did you have any modifications?

Sorry this happened man, just trying to gather as much info as possible on his topic.

Got the car with 70k miles.

I drive the car hard-ish but the car sees mainly freeway miles. I don't go around redlining everywhere though and I tend to shift at 6-6500 anyways because of the torque curve.

See sig for mods.

[9krpmrx8]

Originally Posted by northbranchroad

Why is 6,000 mile interval oil change on 5w-30 risky? Isn’t that what bmw recommends to put in these cars?

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

How so? BMW recommended is somewhere around 8k miles depending on how hard the car is driven. 5W-30 is also factory recommended.

BMW has always recommended ridiculously long OIC's and many older BMW owners can tell you how that worked out. Now 6000 mile OIC's may be fine with a group 4 or 5 synthetic 40 but a 30 is too thin for a boosted engine IMO long term at that OIC. But there are a lot of factors.

Remember manufacturers don't recommend the best performing oil, they are more focused on meeting emission and mileage standards, etc.

[northbranchroad]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

BMW has always recommended ridiculously long OIC's and many older BMW owners can tell you how that worked out. Now 6000 mile OIC's may be fine with a group 4 or 5 synthetic 40 but a 30 is too thin for a boosted engine IMO long term at that OIC. But there are a lot of factors.

Remember manufacturers don't recommend the best performing oil, they are more focused on meeting emission and mileage standards, etc.

Makes sense, so what do you recommend using?

[djjsarai]

Originally Posted by Jeyoller

Hey everyone!

Opening this thread to see how reliable has been the n55 engine to everyone here in the forum. I've recently moved from an n54 platform to an N55 (feel like it was a mistake) for "reliability" purposes but now that i got mine i did a little bit more research and i've been finding a lot of people with engine rod bearings going bad on them. My car currently have 75k and have had these parts replaced (under warranty)


2011 N55 E90 75k


Valve cover
Valve cover gasket
OFHG (oil filter housing gasket) - I've read this is a common thing that if done wrong could get gasket pigments into the engine and damage the rod bearings

Mods:
Stock


If you guys can post your year, millage, mods and problems you've encountered with your n55 platform that'd be awesome for research/documentation purposes.

Here the links i've found so far:

Forums
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=rod+bearing

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=883580


Youtube:

@335MRod

Thanks in advance to anyone that helps with the information gathering! BTW has anyone make it to 125k in an N55 platform???

I'm at 122k and just about to do my valve cover. Pcv went, so replacing the whole cover. I have my own whole thread on N55 issues. Although I've been tuned since 19k miles and haven't had any major issues (knocking on wood).

[dleccord]

Make sure we record people’s regions too. Maybe it’s a California thing or low octane.

[DidUknowiPwn]

Not sure how to support this but I've spent a good amount on getting the car fixed over the past year.

Electronic Coolant pump replaced at 56k
Radiator replaced at 56k
Valve Cover Gasket & seals were replaced around 60k
Evaporator replaced at 62k

So.Cal.

Also hearing the same sounds as in the first video, not sure if that was diagnosed or not. Would help me a lot!

[xxMike61]

Originally Posted by dleccord

Make sure we record people’s regions too. Maybe it’s a California thing or low octane.

This is what I am thinking. Cali has shit 91

[dleccord]

Originally Posted by xxMike61

This is what I am thinking. Cali has shit 91

And if this is a root cause, would running half e85 every other tank help?

[Pladi]

Bad fuel or aggressive tuning is the number 1 cause of these fails..

Second is oil flow issues and restrictions/factory quality issues with bearings installed or quality issues when assembling the engine..

Gaskets and other silicon rubber circulating because of a bad oil pan repair and other gaskets in the oil blocking oil flow can also cause bearing fails. Diluted oil as well.

Testing oil is best way to know. That wont tell you restrictions however it might tell you if silicone is high in oil. That could be gasket material.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Bad fuel or aggressive tuning is the number 1 cause of these fails..

Second is oil flow issues and restrictions/factory quality issues with bearings installed or quality issues when assembling the engine..

Gaskets and other silicon rubber circulating because of a bad oil pan repair and other gaskets in the oil blocking oil flow can also cause bearing fails. Diluted oil as well.

Testing oil is best way to know. That wont tell you restrictions however it might tell you if silicone is high in oil. That could be gasket material.

Your opinion, along with the opinion of others on my logs unfortunately points towards too aggressive of a tune for my fuel. Its a shame because I had been told that the timing corrections were normal and that it was just the knock sensor doing it's job. Since purchasing the car and building it, I have been reading up a ton on turbo tuning and trying to learn as much as possible. Unfortunately I learned about timing and the negative effects of corrections from personal experience rather than the books.