[Brunotheboxer]

i have a question: I bought Klasse aio and sealant glaze but have not used them as of yet. i also bought jeff werkstatts acrylic jett trigger. my question is can i use the acrylic jett instead of the sealant glaze or is this a bad idea?

i am a little scared of the sealant glaze as i have heard of some bad experiences (i will use the wipe on wipe off method) and have also heard that the jett trigger is a reformulation of the klasse and is much easier to use.

basically when i do my spring detail on my silver bmw i want to wash, clay bar, use an aio product and then use a sealant. is that a good strategy or do you have another recommendation. thanx in advance george.

bruno.

[OC Guy]

Bruno, that's great. AJT works fine after KAIO. KAIO is pretty much a good base for anything.

[Detailed Image]

Hey gang, I just got back from a mini-trip over the weekend and did not have internet access. I am catching up on a lot and will get to all of your questions as fast as possible. Sorry for the delayed replies!

George

[ATD1]

Hey George,

Looking for some advice from a pro. Just picked up my BMW 335i JET BLACK (non-metallic) and the dealership did a number on the car when they "detailed" it. Anyway its only been 2 weeks and I haven't washed it yet and the swirls are very noticeable but even worst are these hideous buffer holograms (trails) that they left behind.

I'm going to make the investment in the PC7424 and whatever else you think I may need (wax, pads, glaze, polish...etc.) and of course I'll send you the biz I just need some guidance on a good year round detailing package. I know there a mountain of products out there but I'm sure you have some great suggestions especially for black paint. I'm looking for a complete system of products. I see a lot of guys lean toward the Menzerna products but I was wondering what your advice would be to get this car looking the way it should.

If you'd like you can just shoot me a PM...like 3352GO I too am a detailing dweeb.


Thanks for the help.


PS...GREAT WEBSITE!

[Pfieff]

welcome aboard killer.....i gotta stop down to the shop and pick up a couple things this week, the s2000 is dirty once again...shoot me an email when you get a minute and let me know how your week looks.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by darkcloud

Hey George,

Just wanted to let you know everything came today and was packaged great! Thanks again for all the help.

To anyone on the fence, George really does give some good info. I was all over the place on what products I should use and sought a lot of info from several sources. I laid out all my issues/wants/concerns/and needs about my car care philosophy and he was very detailed in his response and handled every question perfectly, all at the same time I didn't feel steered into getting something I didn't want/need.

Now I only need one more thing George, I'm getting up bright and early tomorrow morning(4/21) to use all my new products and I need some helpful hints/tips on how to use some of this stuff. I'm shooting to start around 8:30-9am and it would be greatly appreciated if you could give me a ring on my cell at least by 11(around the time I should start using the PC). My questions shouldn't take long I just want to clear a few things up.

Thanks again,

Garrett

Garrett - Thank you for all of the kind words, it is great to hear feedback from our customers! I apologize for not giving you a call, if you read my post from today, I was away all weekend and just getting around to reading the forums now, late Monday night. If you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to ask. If you performed your detail this weekend, let us know how things turned out for you. Looking forward to hearing about your results with the products.

Once again, we greatly appreciate your support!

George

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by zzinco79

yea, I'm looking for some professional detailing ship around here (or near NYC) who can remove swirs and fine scretches from my car.

Do a little digging around here:
http://autopia.org/forum/northeast-usa/

At a glance, I saw a few threads of detailers near your area, NYC.

Originally Posted by BayerischeMW

George or Greg, after the initial spring detail (wash, clay, polish, glaze, sealant) i usually wash the car atleast once a week. can i simply add another layer of Menzerna FMJ each month or will it not bond?

what do you suggest, add another layer of Menzerna FMJ each month or a layer of Menzerna HGAS after each wash?

thanks!

Petter - My personal thoughts are a coat of FMJ monthly is overkill and the added benefits would be slim, aside from a fresh coat. I personally would use the HGAS as mentioned to add some pop and an added layer of protection over the initial coating. If you are washing weekly you could even get away with every other wash, unless you had the itch to add a coat of something each detail. I don't think its necessary but also wouldn't hurt by applying it weekly. I'll typically reapply FMJ seasonally on my personal vehicles.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by sapperelite

We carry some of the mentioned products like Klasse and P21s as well as Menzerna, Poorboy's World, Clear Kote, Pinnacle Souveran, Lake Country, Porter Cable, Clay Magic and a couple of other brands for exterior care. I'd be happy to put together a complete package that fits your detailing needs. Let me know what your goals and objectives are, time commitment and how often you plan on maintaining your vehicle and I will give you my best recommendation.

Hope to hear from you soon. Feel free to PM me or post for others to view.

Sorry, I haven't figured out to quote selected areas...

George,
I have asked a lot of questions on the board already but I have to ask if you can put together a recommended package for me. I receive my Sparkling Graphite 2007 335XI in a few days. I have made contact per Picus recommendation and told the dealer not to touch the vehicle unless I am there. I have followed Picus's advice and ordered some stuff but would like to see what you could offer me at your store that would work for me in conjunction with my goals for this car. I currently live in Madrid where the summer temps average over 100+ through the entire summer. I will park the vehicle in an underground parking garage but the temp will be high on the few days I drive to work. My goal is to have the vehicle look like it is brand new for years to come. I will never show the car but I want it to look immaculate. My family moved back to the US for a year so I will have a lot of time to dedicate to this car. I don't want to buy an orbital buffer here, due to cost and incompatibility issues when I return to the US. If I can get a good price on a package deal, I would probably be willing to buy another set of detailing gear from your site just to have some options. I have, as Picus recommended, bought the grit guard, Meguiars car wash, some sheepskin mitts, Aerospace 303, Jeffs Werkstadt prime and Jett acrylic trigger, zaino Z9/10 and some quick detailer but I can't remember the brand. I bought some towels but I don't think they were the right ones. I would like to join the others by saying welcome and I am very glad to have a vendor/expert here willing to provide assistance not only on performing the detailing but also on buying. One last question, do you ship to APO/FPO (USG) addresses? Thanks

Thank you for the warm welcome. Based on your needs and concerns, I think you are off to a great start. You have a lot of great products already for your vehicle, now to fine tune it to give you the best results possible.

For the washing and drying phase, do you have any Waffle Weave Drying Towels? If not, they are the safest possible drying towels available. I recommend using the "sheeting off" technique prior to using your drying towel, then proceed to blot dry the water still remaining on the surface of the vehicle. The rest of your products you selected will work great for your needs.

I noticed you didn't pick up a clay bar, any reason why? I know some people are skeptical of claying a new vehicles right away but I typically will recommend it, as does picus in his new car prep thread. Until the end of the month we have a special running where you get a free 16oz bottle of Quik Shine clay lube with any purchase of a 200g stand alone bar.

Depending on how the car is delivered, you probably will not need a polish with any more bite than the Prime you already have.

Being that the vehicle will be subject to such high temperatures, I do not think a wax is a wise investment in your case. It will evaporate faster than normal and will be pretty useless as a source of added protection.

As far as microfiber removal towels we've had great luck with our General Purpose Microfiber Towels.

As far as your paint exterior is concerned, that covers it. I honestly do not think you need to invest in much more than what I mentioned to get the most out of your paint. It sounds like you did some research and don't think you'll see too much of a difference in your results by changing products out that accomplish the same thing.

Few products I like to use, especially on a brand new vehicle are:

303 High Tech Fabric Guard - protecting new carpets and upholstery from future stains.

Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant - adding a layer of protection to your wheels to make future cleanings of potentially stubborn brake dust much much easier.

303 Aerospace Protectant - which you already have.

Aside from that, let me know if you would like me to recommend anything else for you, such as a glass cleaner, engine bay degreaser, an all purpose interior cleaner to use prior to the 303 Protectant, tire dressing, etc. I'm not sure if you were in need of any of those products as well.

Check your PM box if you haven't already.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

George

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Brunotheboxer

i have a question: I bought Klasse aio and sealant glaze but have not used them as of yet. i also bought jeff werkstatts acrylic jett trigger. my question is can i use the acrylic jett instead of the sealant glaze or is this a bad idea?

i am a little scared of the sealant glaze as i have heard of some bad experiences (i will use the wipe on wipe off method) and have also heard that the jett trigger is a reformulation of the klasse and is much easier to use.

basically when i do my spring detail on my silver bmw i want to wash, clay bar, use an aio product and then use a sealant. is that a good strategy or do you have another recommendation. thanx in advance george.

bruno.

Bruno - OC 335i nailed it on the head. I like to do the same routine with vehicles that do not need an abrasive polish. Both the Klasse products and the Werkstatt products are polymer based products so they are fine to build upon each other.

Originally Posted by OC 335i

Bruno, that's great. AJT works fine after KAIO. KAIO is pretty much a good base for anything.

Good advice OC

Originally Posted by ATD1

Hey George,

Looking for some advice from a pro. Just picked up my BMW 335i JET BLACK (non-metallic) and the dealership did a number on the car when they "detailed" it. Anyway its only been 2 weeks and I haven't washed it yet and the swirls are very noticeable but even worst are these hideous buffer holograms (trails) that they left behind.

I'm going to make the investment in the PC7424 and whatever else you think I may need (wax, pads, glaze, polish...etc.) and of course I'll send you the biz I just need some guidance on a good year round detailing package. I know there a mountain of products out there but I'm sure you have some great suggestions especially for black paint. I'm looking for a complete system of products. I see a lot of guys lean toward the Menzerna products but I was wondering what your advice would be to get this car looking the way it should.

If you'd like you can just shoot me a PM...like 3352GO I too am a detailing dweeb.

Thanks for the help.

PS...GREAT WEBSITE!

ATD1 - That's a shame that so many people are experiencing horrible dealer preps. For those reading this post and having purchased their new vehicle yet, I encourage you to tell the dealership to NOT prep your vehicle and perform the new vehicle prep yourself as outlined in picus' great new car prep thread. I will shoot you a PM right after this post with some information on how to get your car back to new condition and properly maintaining it from here on out.

Thank you once again for the positive feedback on the website. If you like this one, we just started the planning process of a fully customized new site due out around Fall of 2008. If anyone sees any features, tutorials, pictures, videos, etc. they would like to see added to our next redesign, please do not hesitate to let us know.

Originally Posted by Pfieff

welcome aboard killer.....i gotta stop down to the shop and pick up a couple things this week, the s2000 is dirty once again...shoot me an email when you get a minute and let me know how your week looks.

Greg - Sounds great, I actually have a great idea for your car, if your interested. Check your email in a little bit.

George

[Brunotheboxer]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Bruno - OC 335i nailed it on the head. I like to do the same routine with vehicles that do not need an abrasive polish. Both the Klasse products and the Werkstatt products are polymer based products so they are fine to build upon each other.



Good advice OC

thanks George and OC Big

[Fartpimpson]

[BayerischeMW]

thanks George, i appreciate your thoughts! i'll most likely place an order with you in the coming days.

do you recommend the ultra plush or the general purpose towel for removing polishes/waxes and final buffing? thanks.

[darkcloud]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Garrett - Thank you for all of the kind words, it is great to hear feedback from our customers! I apologize for not giving you a call, if you read my post from today, I was away all weekend and just getting around to reading the forums now, late Monday night. If you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to ask. If you performed your detail this weekend, let us know how things turned out for you. Looking forward to hearing about your results with the products.

Once again, we greatly appreciate your support!

George

George - No big deal. I figured everything out. Everything turned out great . Car looks awesome and 90% better I was leaning the ropes with the PC while using the IP and either wasn't going over areas enough, wasn't pushing the PC hard enough down or need a more aggresive pad . So I missed a few areas swirl wise on the hood and it didn't take out a few superficial clear coat scratches. I figure in a couple weeks once come stuff begins to break down I'll redo the whole hood and hit specific spots that need it. Or I'll just redo the entire car(minus claying) at the end of June.

Either way I'm really excited and the car is looking just like the day I picked her up.

Oh and I noticed today I got some scratches on my passanger door. The way it looked is a rock got kicked up and rolled on an arch across the front door. The scratches looked pretty bad. So I washed the car. Then redid the 4 steps over the line the rock traveled. Can't see it anymore , which I'm happy about .

Garrett

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by BayerischeMW

thanks George, i appreciate your thoughts! i'll most likely place an order with you in the coming days.

do you recommend the ultra plush or the general purpose towel for removing polishes/waxes and final buffing? thanks.

For product removal the general purpose towels work great. I typically save the ultra plush towels for quick detailers and to remove a light dusting. Let me know if there is anything else I can give you a hand with!

Originally Posted by darkcloud

I was leaning the ropes with the PC while using the IP and either wasn't going over areas enough, wasn't pushing the PC hard enough down or need a more aggresive pad . So I missed a few areas swirl wise on the hood and it didn't take out a few superficial clear coat scratches. I figure in a couple weeks once come stuff begins to break down I'll redo the whole hood and hit specific spots that need it. Or I'll just redo the entire car(minus claying) at the end of June.

Either way I'm really excited and the car is looking just like the day I picked her up.

Oh and I noticed today I got some scratches on my passanger door. The way it looked is a rock got kicked up and rolled on an arch across the front door. The scratches looked pretty bad. So I washed the car. Then redid the 4 steps over the line the rock traveled. Can't see it anymore , which I'm happy about .

Garrett

Garrett - Glad to see you had a successful detail session this weekend! Detailing is an art form and you get better every time you detail it seems. Continue reading up on the proper techniques and keep experimenting with different pressure, amount of polish used, speed settings, etc. until you find the best combination for your vehicle. I still learn new things on a regular basis and constantly looking to improve my results.

Let us know if there's any thing else I can do to help improve your detail!

Thank you once again for your support.

George

[Richwm]

George, My car was recently repaired and the hood and front bumper were replaced the problem im having is that the rest of my car feels rough like it has over spray all over it I plan on ordering your Porter Cable (PC) 7424 Advanced Kit and I was wondering what else I need to get my paint back to the way it was when it was new. I don’t want the body shop to touch my car any more. I would rather fix it myself so I know its done correct. BTW clay didn’t work but I tried scratch-X on my trunk lid by hand and that worked but took way to long. Thank you in advanced for your help.

Rich

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Richwm

George, My car was recently repaired and the hood and front bumper were replaced the problem im having is that the rest of my car feels rough like it has over spray all over it I plan on ordering your Porter Cable (PC) 7424 Advanced Kit and I was wondering what else I need to get my paint back to the way it was when it was new. I don’t want the body shop to touch my car any more. I would rather fix it myself so I know its done correct. BTW clay didn’t work but I tried scratch-X on my trunk lid by hand and that worked but took way to long. Thank you in advanced for your help.

Rich

Rich, it sounds like you already did some research on what you are interested in. Even thought the clay may not have helped resolve the entire problem, I'm sure it helps play a part in your results.

I think in conjunction with the buffer kit you plan on purchasing and the proper polishes you'll get the results you are looking for in a reasonable period of time.

Along with the PC, I would strongly encourage you to look into the Menzerna line of polishes, specifically either the PO106ff, or the combination of Intensive Polish and Final Polish II.

The PO106ff can often achieve the same results, if not better than the combination of the Intensive Polish and Final Polish II combo. It uses a higher concentration of smaller, yet sharper abrasives which ultimately yields a finer finish. Intensive Polish does have slightly more cutting characteristics for deeper imperfections than the 106ff, so for neglected paint this is a great product to have on hand. Many detailers will still keep IP in their arsenal even if they use the PO106ff on a regular basis.

From there, just make sure you follow up with your choice of protection for your paint, whether it be a sealant and/or wax. If you'd like any suggestions for that, please do not hesitate to ask.

Look forward to hearing about your results with the new PC.

George

[cma0721]

George,

I live in a condo with limited access to a hose. You mention 'Waterless washing'... I'm not familiar with this process and/or product? Can you please describe?

Thanks.

Chris

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Great questions and thank you for the positive feedback.

I am a big fan of claying a new vehicle, I recently responded to the poll posted on claying a new vehicle so I'll copy over my response.



To really maximize your results with detailing, knowing about the proper process and techniques will take you further than the products you are using. Once you understand what each step of the process is trying to achieve and how to do it correctly, you can properly decide on which products will best fit your needs, budget and most importantly, meet your detailing objectives.

In my eyes, there are roughly 12 processes that your exterior can undergo.

Washing & Drying - This is an important step to master because this is the foundation of any detail. This is also the process in which most imperfections are added to your paint, so take the time to research the proper washing and drying techniques.

Waterless Washing - This is a great step to learn if you do not have access to a hose on a regular basis. It works great for people who reside in apartment complexes and mobile detailers.

Using a Clay Bar - This step will help further remove surface contamination that was left behind during the wash stage of the detail. It properly preps the surface for the next steps.

Compounding - This step is used to correct paint with severe defects. Only use this step as a last resort after other, less aggressive methods have been tried and failed. You will almost always leave a haze or marring behind with this step which will need to be corrected by polishing or finishing the paint. You are removing part of the clear coat during this step.

Polishing - This step will take care of most imperfections, like light swirls, water marks, light surface scratches, etc. You are removing a minimal amount of clear coat during this step.

Finishing Polishes - This step will remove any hazing left behind from a more aggressive polish or a rotary buffer. This is when you diminish swirls and other imperfections to a minimum and the gloss and depth really jumps out. You will typically remove a tiny bit of the clear coat during this step.

All In One Products - This step is used to save time by combining some cleaning or polishing characteristics along with some form of protection. While the results are not quite as good as doing the steps separately, these products save time for people looking for great results in less time.

Glazes - Glazes typically have oils and clay in their formula in order to help fill in and hide imperfections. This is only a temporary solution as the fillers will wash out over time.

Sealants - This step adds a barrier of protection that typically lasts 3 - 6 months. A majority of sealants are easy to apply and remove, while giving off a reflective, mirror like look. These products are usually created in a lab.

Waxes - This step will add protection that typically lasts 2 - 8 weeks. A benefit of waxing is you add depth and dimension that sealants are unable to achieve. This is commonly used at car shows to really give off the wet look.

Spray on Protectants - This step usually enhances either a sealant or wax and is often used after a wash and dry during a maintenance step.

Quick Detailers - These products often have light cleaners in them and are great for removing a light dusting after performing a full detail.

Getting to know each step of the detailing process will really help you grow and learn when and why you are performing a detail on your vehicle. This is especially important if you plan on detailing for other people. It will save you a lot of time and you will best meet the customers needs by understanding what happens during each step of the process.

After you really understand what is going on, the products used are just the finishing touches. Once you start looking at the higher quality brands of detailing products, when used correctly, they will yield great results. Some products look better on certain colors, some will be more durable, some interior will give off more gloss or more of a matte look, etc. We all come to have our favorites and go to products over time.

Golden Rule - Prep work is the key to any quality detail. This means removing as much contamination as possible and removing as many imperfections in the clear coat as possible (while doing it safely of course). Prep work occurs during washing and drying, using a clay bar, polishing and glazing.

As far as Zaino vs OTC products is concerned. I think the biggest thing you would notice is longer durability of the protection offered. Zaino is always noted for its durability and recently have made some of their products easier to apply and use. If you vehicle is heavily swirled, Zaino may not be the best option to take, as they only have an option or two that actually remove imperfections. Other steps, such as Z5 fill in and hide imperfections.

I hope this gives you some insight on caring for your new vehicle and what options are available to you when it comes to choosing what processes your vehicle can undergo.

If you have any questions on anything presented, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[Ascension]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Hey gang, I just got back from a mini-trip over the weekend and did not have internet access. I am catching up on a lot and will get to all of your questions as fast as possible. Sorry for the delayed replies!

George

George This is what I have:
6138 BLACK & DECKER BUFFMASTER(tm) ELECTRONIC POLISHER- $351.00
Electronic module provides a wide range of full, constant power. Variable speed switch allows slower RPM's forfeathering. At 8 amps, it's Black & Decker's most powerful polisher motor, and can handle the toughest jobs. Metal gear housing, 5/8-11 spindle thread. Uses 7"/9" pads. Variable speed control from 0-1000/3000 RPM and lock-on button for convenience. Weight 8-1/4 lbs.

I use a Schelegel Finishing Pad #904 that's 100% cotton. I usually wash my car with Meguiars or Zymol car care products. After washing the car, I apply a wax and then buff it out. That's the extent of my detailing

My question is 1) Is my buffer good & what speeds should I use it so the paint doesn't burn 2) should I use a different polishing or finishing pad 3) what car care cleaning products do you recommend?

Due to my time restraints (family with 2 kids under 3) I am not able to do a full detail. I usually only have 2-3 hours to wash & wax my cars. Iappreciate any feed back you have to offer

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by cma0721

George,

I live in a condo with limited access to a hose. You mention 'Waterless washing'... I'm not familiar with this process and/or product? Can you please describe?

Thanks.

Chris

Chris a few options for you. Depending on how dirty your vehicle is, for a light dusting, I like using Poorboy's Spray & Wipe. Basically use it in a similar fashion you would a quick detailer, except spray about 6 - 7 mists per area / panel, let it sit for 2 minutes or so, then gently wipe off with a plush microfiber towel. The towels get saturated rather quickly when using that much product so plan on using about 4 - 8 per vehicle with this method.

For cleanings that are dirtier than a light dusting, I'd recommend Optimum No-Rinse, which we do not carry at the moment. You still use a bucket of water, but do not need the hose. Follow the same procedures you would with a normal wash, however you do not need to rinse. A product similar to No-Rinse is QEW, which is often found on RV sites.

If you have any other questions or would like me to go into more detail with anything, let me know.

Originally Posted by Ascension

George This is what I have:
6138 BLACK & DECKER BUFFMASTER(tm) ELECTRONIC POLISHER- $351.00
Electronic module provides a wide range of full, constant power. Variable speed switch allows slower RPM's forfeathering. At 8 amps, it's Black & Decker's most powerful polisher motor, and can handle the toughest jobs. Metal gear housing, 5/8-11 spindle thread. Uses 7"/9" pads. Variable speed control from 0-1000/3000 RPM and lock-on button for convenience. Weight 8-1/4 lbs.

I use a Schelegel Finishing Pad #904 that's 100% cotton. I usually wash my car with Meguiars or Zymol car care products. After washing the car, I apply a wax and then buff it out. That's the extent of my detailing

My question is 1) Is my buffer good & what speeds should I use it so the paint doesn't burn 2) should I use a different polishing or finishing pad 3) what car care cleaning products do you recommend?

Due to my time restraints (family with 2 kids under 3) I am not able to do a full detail. I usually only have 2-3 hours to wash & wax my cars. Iappreciate any feed back you have to offer

Ascension - Have you used the buffer in the past? I would not recommend learning to detail on a rotary buffer, there are far more risks involved with an inexperienced rotary user vs the potential benefits, especially if you only have 2 - 3 hours. The pad that is shown looks to be a cutting pad, which you'd want to apply a compound or medium cutting polish with. I think it is far too aggressive of a pad for that machine. When I start off with my rotary, I start with a soft foam finishing pad from Lake Country and work my way up if I need more bite. It only takes a second at the wrong speed, wrong angle, wrong part of the car to burn thru the clear coat or paint with a rotary. I'd recommend you pick up a hood from a local junk yard or practice on a vehicle you do not care much about prior to using it.

Could you list out the available pad options you have for your unit? If you do wish to still learn on that buffer, I can give you some product and pad recommendations for you to try.

You may want to still invest in a quality random orbital. Most detailers, even pro's, cannot finish down the paint properly without following up with a random orbital machine, otherwise you can be left with hologramming, buffer haze, etc. and your hard work is ruined.

Hope that helps clear some things up, from the looks of it, your buffer is fine and quite capable of doing what it is supposed to do, both power and functionality. I just wouldn't dive head first with it on your BMWs.

George

PS - After looking at your photo's I'd throw that pad away if it sat on the driveway face down like shown. Chances are you picked up some tiny abrasive particles that certainly will ruin your paint with a rotary buffer spinning at high speeds.

[GreyGhost]

I personally use a DI filtraion system and dry with a leaf blower. With a good coat of Zymol the water shoots off thus minimizing contact with the paint. Any experience with this process?

[Ascension]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Chris a few options for you. Depending on how dirty your vehicle is, for a light dusting, I like using Poorboy's Spray & Wipe. Basically use it in a similar fashion you would a quick detailer, except spray about 6 - 7 mists per area / panel, let it sit for 2 minutes or so, then gently wipe off with a plush microfiber towel. The towels get saturated rather quickly when using that much product so plan on using about 4 - 8 per vehicle with this method.

For cleanings that are dirtier than a light dusting, I'd recommend Optimum No-Rinse, which we do not carry at the moment. You still use a bucket of water, but do not need the hose. Follow the same procedures you would with a normal wash, however you do not need to rinse. A product similar to No-Rinse is QEW, which is often found on RV sites.

If you have any other questions or would like me to go into more detail with anything, let me know.



Ascension - Have you used the buffer in the past? I would not recommend learning to detail on a rotary buffer, there are far more risks involved with an inexperienced rotary user vs the potential benefits, especially if you only have 2 - 3 hours. The pad that is shown looks to be a cutting pad, which you'd want to apply a compound or medium cutting polish with. I think it is far too aggressive of a pad for that machine. When I start off with my rotary, I start with a soft foam finishing pad from Lake Country and work my way up if I need more bite. It only takes a second at the wrong speed, wrong angle, wrong part of the car to burn thru the clear coat or paint with a rotary. I'd recommend you pick up a hood from a local junk yard or practice on a vehicle you do not care much about prior to using it.

Could you list out the available pad options you have for your unit? If you do wish to still learn on that buffer, I can give you some product and pad recommendations for you to try.

You may want to still invest in a quality random orbital. Most detailers, even pro's, cannot finish down the paint properly without following up with a random orbital machine, otherwise you can be left with hologramming, buffer haze, etc. and your hard work is ruined.

Hope that helps clear some things up, from the looks of it, your buffer is fine and quite capable of doing what it is supposed to do, both power and functionality. I just wouldn't dive head first with it on your BMWs.

George

PS - After looking at your photo's I'd throw that pad away if it sat on the driveway face down like shown. Chances are you picked up some tiny abrasive particles that certainly will ruin your paint with a rotary buffer spinning at high speeds.

George, thanks for the feedback. I did some research and it only made it more confusing If you could recommend a kit, I would be VERY appreciative :rocks: I have limited my selections to the following:

Lake Country BFPK-400 Kit With 7" Rotary Plate
ITEMS IN THIS KIT:
1 CCS 8 inch Yellow Cutting Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Orange Light Cutting Pad
1 CCS 8 inch White Polishing Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Black Finishing Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Blue Final Finishing Pad
2 Cobra Microfiber Towels, 16 x 16 inches
1 Cobra Quik Clenz Pad Cleaner Packet
1 7" Rotary Backing Plate LC-43-175
BFPK-400-CIR$79.99

Meguiar's 8-inch Buffing Pad Set
This kit includes:
Meguiar's W7000 Softbuff™ Cutting Pad
Meguiar's W8000 Softbuff™ Foam Polishing Pad
Meguiar's W9000 Softbuff™ Finishing Pad
Meguiar's W65 Backing Plate

MIR MEG1 - Meguiar's 8-inch Buffing Pad Kit with backing plate


(100K Buffing Pad Kit
This kit includes:
Schlegel 175C Fast Change Cutting Pad, 100% wool yarn

Schlegel 2003 "The Edge" Light Cut/Polish Foam Buff, Green

Schlegel 2004 "The Edge" Finishing Foam Buff, Blue

Schlegel 3707 "The Edge" Fast Change Backing Plate

SCH 100K - Schlegel 100K Buffing Pad Kit with backing plate
see below):

[ADHD]

just got the first kit myself yesterday! woohooo
i got the same kit but with a flexible rotary plate!
Lake Country BFPK-400 Kit With 7" Rotary Plate
ITEMS IN THIS KIT:
1 CCS 8 inch Yellow Cutting Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Orange Light Cutting Pad
1 CCS 8 inch White Polishing Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Black Finishing Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Blue Final Finishing Pad
2 Cobra Microfiber Towels, 16 x 16 inches
1 Cobra Quik Clenz Pad Cleaner Packet
1 7" Rotary Backing Plate LC-43-175
BFPK-400-CIR$79.99

u cant beat it!!! comes with eveything.. im going to hit up my truck hood today!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost

I personally use a DI filtraion system and dry with a leaf blower. With a good coat of Zymol the water shoots off thus minimizing contact with the paint. Any experience with this process?

I'd make a couple of minor adjustments to your process and I think you'll be getting even better results. Using the DI filtration and leaf blower is fine, consider adding a foam gun to the end of your hose so you can soak the car with some quality lubricating shampoo and help rinse off more stubborn contamination. The problem with your process is over time your going to build up more and more stubborn contamination that is not removed by this wash process. I'd recommend giving the vehicle a true wash with a quality wash mitt, 2 bucket wash method, etc. prior to applying your next coat of wax. In your case, I'd make sure you clay your paint at least twice a year to give you a fresh start.

Let us know if you end up adding anything I mentioned and how you make out.

Originally Posted by ADHD

just got the first kit myself yesterday! woohooo
i got the same kit but with a flexible rotary plate!
Lake Country BFPK-400 Kit With 7" Rotary Plate
ITEMS IN THIS KIT:
1 CCS 8 inch Yellow Cutting Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Orange Light Cutting Pad
1 CCS 8 inch White Polishing Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Black Finishing Pad
1 CCS 8 inch Blue Final Finishing Pad
2 Cobra Microfiber Towels, 16 x 16 inches
1 Cobra Quik Clenz Pad Cleaner Packet
1 7" Rotary Backing Plate LC-43-175
BFPK-400-CIR$79.99

u cant beat it!!! comes with eveything.. im going to hit up my truck hood today!

Ascension - I'd recommend the kit that ADHD picked out. The only thing I'd consider changing is if they have 6" backing plate and 6.5" pads, you may want to choose that over the 8" pads. With a rotary buffer, the larger the pads, the more heat is generated at the edges of those pads and you can burn the clear easier. I used 7.25" sized pads with my rotary when I detailed professionally and plan on ordering some smaller pads next time around. I would imagine a beginner may find it difficult starting with 8" pads.

Please do not hesitate to ask any questions regarding using your buffer, I'll do my best to clear up any confusion you may have on anything.

ADHD - keep us posted on how you like the CCS pads with your rotary, I'm sure everything will turn out great!

George