[pysical]

I had time to finally play around with it. Few things I did..

1. I took a 1/2" counter sink drill bit and made the holes where the screws go a little more flush. Not a big deal but with the screws being tapered I figured it would be nicer to have them sit a little in the plate.

2. I scuffed, primed, and painted the plates. I felt like I did everything right but even after all of that the paint was still very fragile. If I ever get around to it, I would powder coat. I didn't know painting raw aluminum would be this big of a issue, or I just didn't do a good job.

3. I didn't splice in the B58 harness into my harness. First reason is because I like to be able to just unplug these coils and put something else on if I ever needed to. Also, if I ever decide to sell them, I can sell the connectors a bit easier. A new injector harness is about $50 but what I spent is the same amount so it just makes it easier for me. What I did was purchase Precision Raceworks coil replacement connectors and then just splice in the B58 connectors. So I basically made my own "PnP" connectors. I tucked them away and it seems pretty clean.


Overall I think this is a great option. I think it is well worth it over the other B58 option that has a 7-8 week lead time. I haven't had a time to run the car yet since I have a lot of work to do on it, but hopefully it will be on the road in the next month.

Various pictures I took along the way:

View post on imgur.com

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by pysical

I had time to finally play around with it. Few things I did..

1. I took a 1/2" counter sink drill bit and made the holes where the screws go a little more flush. Not a big deal but with the screws being tapered I figured it would be nicer to have them sit a little in the plate.

2. I scuffed, primed, and painted the plates. I felt like I did everything right but even after all of that the paint was still very fragile. If I ever get around to it, I would powder coat. I didn't know painting raw aluminum would be this big of a issue, or I just didn't do a good job.

3. I didn't splice in the B58 harness into my harness. First reason is because I like to be able to just unplug these coils and put something else on if I ever needed to. Also, if I ever decide to sell them, I can sell the connectors a bit easier. A new injector harness is about $50 but what I spent is the same amount so it just makes it easier for me. What I did was purchase Precision Raceworks coil replacement connectors and then just splice in the B58 connectors. So I basically made my own "PnP" connectors. I tucked them away and it seems pretty clean.


Overall I think this is a great option. I think it is well worth it over the other B58 option that has a 7-8 week lead time. I haven't had a time to run the car yet since I have a lot of work to do on it, but hopefully it will be on the road in the next month.

Various pictures I took along the way:

View post on imgur.com

Thanks for posting the pictures and sharing your thoughts!

-Rich

[rbryantaz]

I have added an official for sale thread for the production run of the kit here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...php?p=27668472


Thanks to everyone that was interested and encouraged me to make them available for everyone!

-Rich

[Ten-Zing]

If you were looking for something other than raw aluminum, I think rather than trying to paint or powder coat the plates I'd go with anodizing.

You could find something like a BMW logo blue or something unique. I'm at the point where I may never put my engine cover back on now.

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by Ten-Zing

If you were looking for something other than raw aluminum, I think rather than trying to paint or powder coat the plates I'd go with anodizing.

You could find something like a BMW logo blue or something unique. I'm at the point where I may never put my engine cover back on now.

Anodizing tends to fade over time with 6061 aluminum and is a lot more expensive than powdercoat. Usually it requires a lot charge of $100 or so.

I can get them powdercoated if there is a large demand. Wire brushing them is another way to give them a cool look.

-Rich

[marconi118]

Better R8 or B58 coils?

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by marconi118

Better R8 or B58 coils?

I am just going to say that they are "different" options that are available.

There are threads dedicated to comparing the R8, PR, and B58 coils. Sp00lstreet has some good ones.

Given that I went with the B58s and started selling the kit I have a bias now so I am not the best one to answer.

-Rich

[pysical]

Was able to get around to starting my car with these on. Checked the option in MHD and started up no issues. All I can do at the moment is idle but hopefully soon I will be able to take it out and put some testing on them.

[bahn]

Originally Posted by rbryantaz

I am just going to say that they are "different" options that are available.

There are threads dedicated to comparing the R8, PR, and B58 coils. Sp00lstreet has some good ones.

Given that I went with the B58s and started selling the kit I have a bias now so I am not the best one to answer.

-Rich

If you're going to copy my idea then you can at least do your own research & development instead of linking people to mine

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by bahn

If you're going to copy my idea then you can at least do your own research & development instead of linking people to mine

The idea of a coil on plug plate is a pretty generic concept that nobody can take credit for inventing.

The individual plates don't steal any ideas from any existing n54 designs that I know of. This design is different other than they adapt the same BMW coil.

I definitely respect the work that was done measuring the stock, b58, PR, and R8 coils.

It should be noted that Eldor does publish their ignition coil specs so the measurement is really just verifying their specs:

https://www.eldorgroup.com/en/produc...ignition-coils

Eldor Plug-top family Output energy:

EPT200SP - 130mJ
EPT200 - 100mJ
EPT300 - 80mJ

-Rich

[bahn]

Originally Posted by rbryantaz

The idea of a coil on plug plate is a pretty generic concept that nobody can take credit for inventing.

The individual plates don't steal any ideas from any existing n54 designs that I know of. This design is different other than they adapt the same BMW coil.

I definitely respect the work that was done measuring the stock, b58, PR, and R8 coils.

-Rich

I don't know that I would call it respectful to copy an idea and use my research to sell a product

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by bahn

I don't know that I would call it respectful to copy an idea and use my research to sell a product

uhh, I was actually the one that commented and linked your thread. He didn't even mention your/*********** posts until after I posted it a few times.

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by bahn

I don't know that I would call it respectful to copy an idea and use my research to sell a product

Eldor publishes the information in their product specs so it isn't a secret and your measurements aren't the only way to see that they are a good coil.

My goal was to let people decide for themselves and not get into, "why is yours better but instead to let people just decide for themselves."

-Rich

[bahn]

Originally Posted by rbryantaz

Eldor publishes the information in their product specs so it isn't a secret and your measurements aren't the only way to see that they are a good coil.

My goal was to let people decide for themselves and not get into, "why is yours better but instead to let people just decide for themselves."

-Rich

It is what it is, please refrain from using my research to sell products.

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by bahn

It is what it is, please refrain from using my research to sell products.

I will refrain from referencing the information in the future and simply state that the specifications for the coils show a higher output.

Previously I only mentioned that your data existed after it was already brought into the thread. I don't think I have discussed it or made any other comment than that information is out there.

My plates are simply one way to mount the B58 coils and adapt the wiring.

-Rich

[Dumaurier7]

Hello! You should look at doing a mounting solution for the N55 too!

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by Dumaurier7

Hello! You should look at doing a mounting solution for the N55 too!

I am working on it but haven't gotten back to it in the past few weeks.

There are two different N55 setups to deal with.

LMK if you are interested in N55 prototype testing.

-Rich

[Dumaurier7]

Definitely would be! i have an M235.

[rbryantaz]

There have been some reports of B58 coils burning springs if used without resistors. I believe this was probably a case where the spring used was not long enough (or was bound up in the boot) such that it was arching rather than making clean contact.

I have not had any reports of this happening with the springs/boots that I provide. If desired running the stock resistor from the B58 boots with my setup is not difficult.

The original B58 resistor and springs are used with the spring positions flipped.

Step 1: Cut the stock B58 boot to get the resistor out.

Then clip the lip off from the larger side so that that it can be inserted into the boots I provide:





Cut the spring from my boots in half (47-48mm) and screw the B58 coil side spring from the original boot into it. It makes a nice contact and it is easier than further modifying the spring (which is also an option). I had two different style springs from the top of the B58 coils one style is shown, the other style has the same OD without the taper in. I was able to use both by screwing them into the new boot spring (the non tapered style spring just needs a little plier squeeze before screwing it into the other spring so that it s smaller than the other spring and can get started).

Remove the spark plug side spring from the original B58 coil boot after removing the resistor by pushing it out with a phillips screwdriver from the coil side (now that the resistor is no longer in the way you can just slide the screwdriver all the way to it).
Use the B58 spark plug side spring to connect the resistor to the coil (spark plug contact to coil and resistor contact to resistor).

This creates springs with the same resistor contact points as the original B58 setup. The larger spark plug side spring works very well in the boots I provide where the larger OD centers it well in the larger boot pocket. The coil side spring works very well as an extension to the spring I provide and fits well inside of the provided boot.

Note that this setup is longer than the spring only length of 125mm because we include the two springs which gives it more compression range.


Then install the modified spring with the joined spring touching the resistor by pushing it into the boot from the bottom (spark plug) side with a screwdriver or spark plug.

Use the spark plug side spring from the original B58 coil to connect the resistor to the coil.



Now the setup has the option to run either with or without the resistor. Adding the resistor is a quick and easy modification.

-Rich

[rbryantaz]

Thanks for everyone that has supported this project.
We have a few of the kits running in the wild now.

I am going to do a $20 off sale on the kits for a limited time.

Here is the FS thread if interested: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1831738

Thanks,

Rich

[jadams161]

Bump for a nice kit. Can't wait to get mine and do the swap. Hopefully no more worries about misfires and which "coil is best" anymore.

[jadams161]

Kit installed. looks factory.