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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Battery died. What is the best option to buy?



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      12-01-2016, 01:34 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major_90 View Post
I just got this battery (waiting for my Schwaben tool to arrive before installing)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...itemDetailTab_

Is this one ok?

I have a white flooded cell right now. OEM 90 AH. Would this new battery require reprogramming in addition to registration?
Just registration, batttery type (flooded cell) and AH rating is same as OEM, just bigger. It's a tight squeeze, but it fits. I have the NAPA version of the same battery in my vehicle.
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      12-10-2016, 07:58 AM   #68
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Autozone is telling me H6 for my 335D. Is it safe to go with H8?

However, just looked at the battery. It has white casing. Label says VARTA 12V 720A. Is this an AGM? Indy wants $400 for new battery. Can't imagine the dealership.
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Last edited by rogerdiaz; 12-10-2016 at 09:42 AM..
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      12-10-2016, 09:42 AM   #69
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White case means it isn't AGM. It is flooded.

Roger, look back a couple posts. You're battery is same as my OEM. Dealer changed mine to the larger H8/group 49. Lead acid 49 can be had for ~$150 at Oreilly auto

Last edited by BB_cuda; 12-10-2016 at 09:53 AM..
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      12-10-2016, 10:38 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
White case means it isn't AGM. It is flooded.

Roger, look back a couple posts. You're battery is same as my OEM. Dealer changed mine to the larger H8/group 49. Lead acid 49 can be had for ~$150 at Oreilly auto
Excellent. I will see if advance has an equivalent. This battery + carly registration should definitely be <$400 from indy.

Update: $113.57 at Advance Auto Self installed after core return. Now pending battery registration.

Last edited by rogerdiaz; 12-11-2016 at 02:34 PM..
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      02-11-2017, 01:21 PM   #71
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Replaced the original Varta with a BOSCH Group 49. Whoever said is a tight fit was not kidding. In fact, if I had not been able to press my teenage daughter into service I could never have gotten the bolt threaded onto the lower bracket.
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      02-12-2017, 01:42 PM   #72
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Trying to code the new 120-amp battery with my ECS Schwaben coding tool. The new battery install went fine, but when I tried to update the battery spec (the OEM battery was 80 amps) it says to use Progman. I do not have Progman and my EDIABAS install is not working. Any thoughts?
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      02-12-2017, 01:45 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet View Post
Trying to code the new 120-amp battery with my ECS Schwaben coding tool. The new battery install went fine, but when I tried to update the battery spec (the OEM battery was 80 amps) it says to use Progman. I do not have Progman and my EDIABAS install is not working. Any thoughts?
The last I heard, the Schwaben tool can't code for a new type of battery, just a new battery. On page 2 in this thread It says you can use ISTA-P to change types.
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      02-12-2017, 01:58 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Torqu3 View Post
The last I heard, the Schwaben tool can't code for a new type of battery, just a new battery. On page 2 in this thread It says you can use ISTA-P to change types.
Thanks. Not trying to change types, just capacity. Has anyone been able to do this using iCarly?
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      02-12-2017, 02:21 PM   #75
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Actually I believe we can now do this with the Schwaben tool.

When I changed mine I was asked what kind of battery it was as well as the amps....
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      02-12-2017, 02:26 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major_90 View Post
Actually I believe we can now do this with the Schwaben tool.

When I changed mine I was asked what kind of battery it was as well as the amps....
Oh sweet! But you need to have another software to actually change the amps? Maybe Persian needs to update his scan tool.
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      02-12-2017, 03:24 PM   #77
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OK I'll try that -- when I did it it asked me if I changed the amps, but when i said "yes" it said OK you need to use Progman.
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      03-25-2017, 01:19 PM   #78
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Bought my 2008 335i just over 3 years ago.

Have had the battery on a Battery Tender almost the entire time. Think it's the original, so it's at least 8 going on 9 years old. Left it off the charger recently for a couple of days. It turned over but cranked very slowly. So, I think it's time to make the switch before it just goes dead.

Called one of my local BMW dealers and the cost of the battery alone would be $279 BUT they were offering a "special" for the battery and installation at only $320.

So, rather than get a cheap battery and have it registered elsewhere, I'm just going to take the dealer up on the offer. Might be able to save a few bucks doing it cheaper but IMO the battery is too important to mess around with.

UPDATE:

Spoke w/a mechanic that I trust at a local shop that's not a specialty shop. He said he could install an Interstate battery and register it for just $260. His shop is only 3 miles from my house. I've had good luck w/Interstate batteries and he's done work for me before. So, I cancelled my service appt w/the BMW dealer and am going to let my local mechanic do the work instead.

Additional UPDATE

The mechanic actually got me an OEM BMW replacement battery (it was a white top; same as the original) and the total cost including tax and labor (for the install and registration) was only $281.34. Much better than going to the dealer. I'm very happy with the money and time saved.
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Last edited by SSW; 04-05-2017 at 06:13 PM..
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      03-25-2017, 03:07 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSW View Post
Bought my 2008 335i just over 3 years ago.

Have had the battery on a Battery Tender almost the entire time. Think it's the original, so it's at least 8 going on 9 years old. Left it off the charger recently for a couple of days. It turned over but cranked very slowly. So, I think it's time to make the switch before it just goes dead.

Called one of my local BMW dealers and the cost of the battery alone would be $279 BUT they were offering a "special" for the battery and installation at only $320.

So, rather than get a cheap battery and have it registered elsewhere, I'm just going to take the dealer up on the offer. Might be able to save a few bucks doing it cheaper but IMO the battery is too important to mess around with.
Honestly, you'd only be saving money if you were able to get a cheaper battery. Most places charge more than $50 for a battery registration. I'd say jsut stick with the OE battery that apparently is capable of lasting 8 years.
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      03-25-2017, 07:35 PM   #80
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I would say you got 2 battery life times out of that one. It must have been used on long cruises and not many short tripper times. Tender helps too. We have several vehicles but I never pass up a chance to put a continuous 1 hr drive on the battery of the D. Not sure if your gasser wants the big group 49 or the smaller 94R but the price between the two isn't that big. About the best deal I've heard is $149 for the group 49 and $50 for registration unless you have the tools to do it.
$320 for a BMW battery and them doing isn't too bad.
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      03-26-2017, 09:24 AM   #81
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The 335i would be a lot easier on a battery without the glow plugs pulling big amps on startup. He lives in a very mild climate as well.

Modern cars seem to be designed solely to maintain charge, not actually charge up the battery, so its best to throw a good charger on them overnight every now and then I find.
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      03-28-2017, 10:41 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
We don't see -40 in the bay area very often, maybe once every 10 to 20 thousand years. Spending $470 on a battery if you don't REALLY need to is ridiculous. The vast majority of us never had any issue on the stock battery which is roughly equivalent to every other $150 flooded cell battery out there.

Greck, unless you're planning to move to Canada or start tracking your car all the time just get a direct replacement size battery from a local store. You can tell if your battery is agm or flooded cell by looking at the original battery. Agm is black and flooded cell is white.
Hahaha, I'm from Canada and I don't even bother with Odyssey.
Cheapest biggest battery I could find at Walmart and shoved it in. (Biggest that would fit of course.)

There aren't that many car battery factories out there. They're typically all rebrands from the 3 main suppliers.
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      03-28-2017, 09:00 PM   #83
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I got a Group 49 AGM 90ah battery for $180 CAD with 5 year replacement warranty if I remember correctly. Then $20 for Carly with the advanced reset
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      03-28-2017, 11:42 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zugzwang View Post
Please dont flame my views. But there is a difference between monroe and ohlin shocks right? From what ive read one cannot find a more dependable battery... but at a premium price. The price is the only fail in a product that (on paper) stands alone in quality.
There is a real performance benefit in the category they are generally used when comparing socks. The battery's main category is starting the car and it does that no better than any other battery. The shock comparison that works: set of shocks A performs exactly as well as set B butt costs 3x the price, set A will last 120k miles, set B will last 100k miles. And that seems generous since there really isn't a theory out there that odyssey lasts much longer than any standard lead acid battery.

Fwiw, my last battery for this car cost $120 and has a 3 year warranty. That's less than half the price for 75% of the warranty and 100% of the performance (more if you base it on cca rather than just generic ability to start the car. For most people buying the "best" battery is just a waste of money, the premium batteries are really best for those with specific battery needs or for those that the piece of mind of a possibly marginally more reliable battery is worth it.

Last edited by Hoooper; 03-28-2017 at 11:53 PM..
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      03-29-2017, 11:30 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zugzwang View Post
You know... its not all about the cold cranking amps. Its about a battery that will outlast the competition and also will come with a much better warranty.

Please dont flame my views. But there is a difference between monroe and ohlin shocks right? From what ive read one cannot find a more dependable battery... but at a premium price. The price is the only fail in a product that (on paper) stands alone in quality.

The next step would be in one of those lithium batteries which are just retardedly priced. Or is the oddyssey retardedly priced too?

From what ive read there are no recycled materials in this battery. And it shows a superior ability to recharge as compared to other agm brands.

Its only downfall is the price.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
There is a real performance benefit in the category they are generally used when comparing socks. The battery's main category is starting the car and it does that no better than any other battery. The shock comparison that works: set of shocks A performs exactly as well as set B butt costs 3x the price, set A will last 120k miles, set B will last 100k miles. And that seems generous since there really isn't a theory out there that odyssey lasts much longer than any standard lead acid battery.

Fwiw, my last battery for this car cost $120 and has a 3 year warranty. That's less than half the price for 75% of the warranty and 100% of the performance (more if you base it on cca rather than just generic ability to start the car. For most people buying the "best" battery is just a waste of money, the premium batteries are really best for those with specific battery needs or for those that the piece of mind of a possibly marginally more reliable battery is worth it.
Hooper pretty much nailed it on the head. It depends on the application and the value for your dollar. I got a Walmart battery because the battery and warranty was sufficient for my needs and the battery has proven to be a champ in cold weather. My car is parked outside year round and starts in the bitter cold every time. My original BMW Exide battery lasted 6 years and came with the car. If this Walmart / Johnson Controls one lasts 3-5 years, or even 6 like the Exide one, I'm happy.
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      04-24-2017, 02:14 AM   #86
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Quote:
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Sam's club has it for $169.67 but I just checked and it's currently on sale for $144.67. Only 3 year replacement vs 4, but I don't think an extra year is worth $75!

https://m.samsclub.com/ip/auto-group...ee/prod9510087
Installed this guy earlier today... Holy Hell its a tight fit, you guys weren't kidding! Not to mention getting the old one out and the new one in! Like a few others, I enlisted the wife to get the hold down bolt, metal rig down the side into place. Other than that just a few clicks with Carly and it was registered and updated to 90AH/AGM from the previous flooded cell from... 2009! (I trickle charge alot, only 44k miles)

I used Velcro strips to hold a few of the battery lines to the wheel well; somewhat de-tangling the situation for the battery removal/ installation.

Good call on the Sams Club, previously I used PepBoys and picked up a Bosch Platinum AGM Group49 last year at about the same price with a 25% off coupon.
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      04-24-2017, 04:50 AM   #87
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Any of you using Carly to reset battery did it with cheap obd adapter? I dont have the original Carly second gen adapter, the cheap one i own is good enough for diag, parameters, dpf.. and i wonder if ill be able to code the battery with it as well?
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      04-24-2017, 08:25 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by JuiceQuadre View Post
Any of you using Carly to reset battery did it with cheap obd adapter? I dont have the original Carly second gen adapter, the cheap one i own is good enough for diag, parameters, dpf.. and i wonder if ill be able to code the battery with it as well?
I did, however my elm 327 adapter no longer works with Carly since they updated the app
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