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Brake pad sensor Question
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12-19-2015, 04:50 PM | #67 | |
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 12-20-2015 at 05:31 AM.. |
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02-11-2016, 05:20 PM | #69 |
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Sorry to dig up an old thread guys.
I got the red car on lift and brake system exclamation mark warning lamp this week. In the CBS is shows front pads milage "-----". I honestly dont know why this had shown up as I havent touched the front pads or reset anything to my knowledge. Anyway pads have about 50% left on them so I dont need to change the pads. If I buy 2 new sensors will I be able to reset the CBS for the front pads no problem? Or will I have to snip old sensors and tie wires together to trick system? Thanks in advance guys. |
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02-25-2016, 10:34 PM | #70 |
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Bump...Would like to learn more about this system. No conclusive info so far for me.
So when I get a red brake light warning for my rear, replace the pads and sensor, I can reset the rear CBS only? I have read that you have to wait till you change the fronts as well before resetting or you will get the service lift warning thingy. Can someone confirm this please? |
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02-27-2016, 05:20 AM | #71 | |
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The CBS keeps track of the wear rate of the pads by the wear on the sensor. The sensor is dual-stage, which means it wears halfway through and records the event in the CBS computer (a loop of wire imbedded in the sensor breaks). There is no notification provided when the 1st loop of wire breaks. The second stage is when the second wire loop in the sensor breaks which triggers the red "Brake" icon. When that happens the CBS menu will show either the front or rear axle at -- miles left on the brake pads. It does that so you know which axle needs new brakes. The sensor is dual-stage so as to provide the CBS with an actual wear rate of the pads, which allows the CBS to estimate the remaining miles left on the pads. However once the 2nd wire loop breaks and the red "Brake" icon comes up, one or both sets of pads are worn out and need replacement. By trying to reset the CBS and not change the pads and sensor you are just confusing the logic built into the software. Once you reset the CBS, the algorithm in the CBS software assumes you are starting with new pads and a new sensor and starts a new calculation using the predetermined estimated wear rate of the pads before the 1st stage is triggered. If you don't change the wear sensor but reset the CBS, the system still senses the 1st stage (or second stage) is triggered, which screws up the logic. This is why whenever you replace brake pads on a BMW you replace the sensor and reset the system. The system uses a algorithm of a predetermined wear rate along with the real wear rate as determined by the sensor wear rate (the 1st wire loop breaking) to provide an estimate of the miles remaining on the pads. So if you perturb that sequence and not reset the CBS and the Brake Wear System (by using new wear sensors) you screw up the logic of the software in the CBS and the system reports erroneous information. I think most people don't understand the brake wear sensor is a consumable item that gets replaced in tandem with new pads. __________________
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 02-27-2016 at 05:26 AM.. |
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02-28-2016, 09:43 PM | #72 | |
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03-02-2016, 10:06 AM | #73 | |
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Hi Efthreeoh If you confused the logic by reseting the CBS before changing the pad and sensor, will it reset when you actually replace things? |
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03-02-2016, 08:12 PM | #74 |
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If you didn't drive the car then I'd guess yes.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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03-10-2016, 03:16 PM | #75 |
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I just read the entire thread again and noticed some are having difficulties resetting one axle side only, ending up shorting or installing a new sensor for the other axle.
So the CBS reset function is not independent for the front and rear? Please confirm. |
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03-10-2016, 09:40 PM | #76 |
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They can be reset independently. I've done it 3 times on my car.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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06-13-2016, 04:21 PM | #77 |
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Bumping this to get some insight...
So is it possible for the break pads sensors to trip too late or not at all? My mechanic inspected my brakes about 6 weeks ago. He stated that I'm on borrowed time and recommended that I change pads/rotors all around as soon as possible. My CBS is stating the following currently: Front 29000km - inner pads look very close to the brake wear sensor. Outer pads have lots of life. Rear 9000km - these have about 2-3mm left. Should also be right at the wear sensor. See below pic of outer rear pad (right side) Been waiting for the red warning light to pop-up but it has not. Just trying to understand why the estimates would be off and/or why it would not trigger? This would be the first brake service on the car nearing 140k km's. I'm going to go ahead and get it all done anyway and not wait much longer as the system doesnt seem all that reliable... Last edited by nitehawk; 06-13-2016 at 04:55 PM.. |
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07-06-2016, 11:55 PM | #78 |
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Newer BMW owner here. My 2009 328i's onboard computer is saying the fronts pads need service in 11k miles, and the backs need service in 19k miles. I visually inspected the pads and the backs are far lower than the fronts, looks like the fronts have about 70% life and the backs have about 20%.
How could this be? If I replace the back pads and rotors but not the sensor, and don't reset the computer, will it stay at those levels until the pads wear down to the level the sensor is currently reading at? Or should I just replace the sensor while I'm doing the backs and reset the computer for good measure? Thanks in advance. |
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07-21-2016, 04:46 PM | #79 |
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I've got the constant "brake" in Yellow on the dash currently. I've put 50k on the car in the last 18 months so I figured it was legit so I took it in, shop just called and told me the front brakes still have +50% and the rears have even more left. Apparently the rear sensor is broken though. They said, a new sensor can't be installed however because they wear with the pad from the beginning. So what do I do?
I've seen some info on here about cutting and splicing and some who trick the system somehow. I'll experiment with these but it seems like a band-aid to me. Thoughts? |
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07-27-2016, 06:54 PM | #80 |
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I'll be honest, I'm very confused by the different sequence on how things are supposed to be done. So let me tell you what I did and I would appreciate help to fix my problem, even if it's been answered, just because I'm confused...
Rear sensor wore out a few weeks ago and I got the red car on a lift and brake light on. I replaced the brakes, but didn't have a sensor available at the moment, so I left the old worn out sensor (it was worn out completely). Turned on the car and tried to reset the brake indicator. It didn't go away obviously because the sensor was still worn out. Few days later I get the sensor and find some time to put it on. Installed, tried to reset the indicator, but still won't reset. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it? I've tried to reset both from the dashboard as well as using the Carly BMW app. The Carly BMW app tells me it's a fault on the rear wheel brakes. HELP!! |
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06-09-2017, 07:11 AM | #81 | |
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06-12-2017, 06:17 AM | #82 |
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Weekend test.
So I did cut the brake sensor off the back wheel, connected the blue and white wire together and the "Brake" light and car on lift symbol did NOT go away.
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06-12-2017, 07:51 AM | #83 | |
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I cut both of my sensors, connected the wires and reset. All good. |
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06-13-2017, 06:54 AM | #84 |
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06-29-2017, 05:15 PM | #85 |
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This may have been covered already, but I didnt want to read every post. I took my sensors off the caliper and zip tied them up. I figured out your brake/service light wont reset unless you unplug the sensor and plug it back in so the car thinks you have changed the sensor. It is a bit of a PITA, but i dont need a computer to tell me when to change my pads, and I am not going to spend and extra 30$ for every pad change for nothing
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10-18-2017, 08:11 AM | #86 |
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I have about 85% left on my brakes and got a front trip. Vehicle on lift with a 600 mile countdown. I'm assuming simply a bad/broken sensor up front.
If I replace the sensor and reset the sevice interval as indicated in the video above, will I be good to go? Secondly. Confirming only one sensor per axle on the ________ side? |
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10-21-2017, 12:49 PM | #87 |
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I truly appreciate this thread. This saved me a lot of frustration, so, getting to the point. I have a 2008 335i that had both front and rear brake service indications. I replaced the rear pads, as the front still has lots of life, couldn't reset the brake service afterwards, and things actually got worse when I tried. Dash BRAKE light went red always on, Red car on lift service warning when I shut off the engine. Then replaced the rear sensor and that did NOTHING! Here is how I solved, thanks to this awesome thread!
Took old rear sensor, cut off the sensor, stripped and twisted the wires together. Removed front driver side wheel, disconnected front brake sensor from the harness plug and plugged the old rear sensor in and let it hang with wires twisted together. Went through the brake sensor reset and PRESTO! All is right with the world. Simply disconnected the old rear sensor, reconnected the front sensor, reinstalled the wheel. Took her for a drive, then re-checked, all green, front brakes showing 17000 miles, rear showing 60000 miles, so after the drive, the system updated life remaining on the front. I hope this helps |
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10-04-2024, 03:40 PM | #88 |
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The part where my sensors connect in the little housing is so brittle I literally can’t separate it. Any recommendations on what I can do? I’m at a loss and I can’t find how to replace the entire sensor.
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