[Cuckooface]

Anybody can help me out please

[Baly]

Originally Posted by Cuckooface

Anybody can help me out please

Might want to state what you need help with and what tools you're using?

Thank you for the in depth guide, I'm planning on using an ICOM A2 just trying to get hold of ISTA-D and then a voltage stabiliser 👍🏼

[Maleficus]

I can't get the software link for Rheingold to work, does anyone have a current link? I wouldn't mind hosting it either.

[Dirty Jim]

I'll be using this when replacing my battery next month. Thanks!

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

I just have a question that was always bugging me whenever I do Option 5. At Step 28, why do we delete everything in the MAN file and then save that empty file? What is the purpose of doing so? Wouldn't that mean that we use an empty file to write to CAS or FRM/NFRM?

I just wish to understand how it works out of interest!

Edit: Found the answer while reading through the thread. Thanks!

Originally Posted by bbnks2

You need to send a blank file. Sending a blank file force's it to reset all values and it resets based off of whatever is in your VO.

[sharadn]

The polar vortex just ate my battery. I went to Advance and they only had the AGM battery. What came out was not AGM. I have the Foxwell 510 so I can register a new battery but don't believe I can change the type. Will I damage anything by installing the new AGM, registering a new battery and then say within a week get my Indie to program for the AGM? TIA

[sharadn]

As it turns out I was able to change the battery type to AGM with the Foxwell

[Ha4cnn]

Great Guide. I see on the net that a lot of people are disconnecting the IBS when it is faulty so they can start the car, but it is not a good idea if You want your battery to be charged at the correct rate.

[chewable]

Originally Posted by bNks334

Please like and share if this guide helps you out! Why pay a dealer or an indie $70-200+ to register your new battery? Continue reading if you’d like to know why it’s important and how you can get it done yourself!


20. NCSEXPERT should still be open
21. Press F4 (Process ECU) > Select CAS > Click OK
22. Press F2 (Change Job) > Select CODIERDATEN_LESEN (read ecu) > Click OK
23. Press F3 (Execute Job)
24. Verify “Job Ended”
25. Leave NCSExper.exe open and navigate to the “work” folder where the ecu trace file was saved to ([X]:\NCSEXPER_64\WORK)
26. Open the generated FSW_PSW.TRC file with notepad
27. Select: File>save as>FSW_PSW.MAN (be sure to select “save as type” to all files so that it will accept the “.MAN” extension. If you fail to do so it will just save it as a text file .TXT)
28. CLEAR THE FILE (CTRL + A > back*******
29. Select: File >Save
30. Go back to NCS Expert > Press F2 (Change Job) > Select SG_codieren (Write ecu) > Click OK
31. Press F3 (Execute Job)
32. Repeat steps 21 through 31 for the NFRM/FRM module. The CAS And NFRM are not defaulted back to the new VO attributes (battery will be coded to new VO setting).

Hmm. Car wouldnt start and replaced an agm h6 70 ah with non agm h6 70 ah. Did the above and flashed the blank .man file. Sometime during this process, i get a lighting system! Error. After some reading, looks like my frm module is fried. What can i do now? Thinking about sending it to a repair service...but do you think it needs to be replaced? Windows and lights dont work now. Fuck me.

[asterfern]

What would be the best method to upgrade the stock lead (80 ah) battery in my 2011 335is e93 to a costco interstate battery (90 ah) AGM

Tools I have:
- Ancel BM500
- K+CAN Cable (Taotao)
- High end Windows 10 Laptop (can download Winkfp, Inpa, NCS, Ista, etc if needed)
- Spare Samsung high end Android Phone
- Android to USB adapter

[TSilver335i]

Originally Posted by pacmanchriz

What would be the best method to upgrade the stock lead (80 ah) battery in my 2011 335is e93 to a costco interstate battery (90 ah) AGM

Tools I have:
- Ancel BM500
- K+CAN Cable (Taotao)
- High end Windows 10 Laptop (can download Winkfp, Inpa, NCS, Ista, etc if needed)
- Spare Samsung high end Android Phone
- Android to USB adapter

Best method would be NCS expert. Read CAS module and edit the FSW_PSW.TRC file either manually or with NCS dummy. write the .man file back. then register battery with INPA

Option 2 and probably the easiest way would be get Protool for android. Not free though.

[azzurribaggio]

Can I install a new battery BUT code and register the battery a few days later?
I need use of my car but ordered my OBD II reader and it won't arrive for another few days

[Ted Toal]

It looks to me like steps 28 and 29 on option five are incorrect. The way you stated it, you would end up overwriting the file you just got through saving, the .MAN file, with an empty .MAN file. I have a feeling that what you meant to do was make the .TRC file be empty. But once you do a “File, Save as…”, you’ve change the name of the file, so that when you subsequently do a save, it’s gonna save to that new file name, not the original one. Also, I wonder, is it really necessary to make the .TRC file be empty?

When I follow this procedure, the .TRC file for the CAS module contained a KLASSE BATTERIE entry. However, when I went to the FRM module, there was no such entry. Is that wrong?

And one other question. After I finish that procedure to set my battery to 80 Ah agm, I went back to INPA and went into status, and F5 (PM – IBS), then selected F3 (PM field 2). It shows “Batterie Kapazitat in Ah 91.00”. So it seems that I must not be completely finished setting the battery type?

By the way, after following the procedure, I did a reading of the CAS module, and looked at the contents of the .TRC file, and it showed under KLASSE BATTERIE 80_agm as expected.

[asterfern]

Originally Posted by chewable

Hmm. Car wouldnt start and replaced an agm h6 70 ah with non agm h6 70 ah. Did the above and flashed the blank .man file. Sometime during this process, i get a lighting system! Error. After some reading, looks like my frm module is fried. What can i do now? Thinking about sending it to a repair service...but do you think it needs to be replaced? Windows and lights dont work now. Fuck me.

What did you end up doing?? Did it fry your frm?? I'm nervous to change VO codes as it's quite nerve wracking. I'm wondering if it's just worth going to the BMW dealer and have them change it out to avoid any problems. Do you think the dealer changes the VO?

[FoxKhan]

Hi,

Thank you very much for this thread!

I need to replace an original BMW 80AH, 640A (61217604816) on my old BMW E91 M47 320D. If I buy an 85AH 800A battery (Varta for example), do I need to code it or just register it?

What if I buy a 80AH EFB, would that need coding? (And would it be worth it to buy one instead?)

[MtBMW73]

I didn't see this question asked so apologize if it was and I missed it.

For vehicles without IBS, does the battery need to be registered? My 2013 E92 was not equipped with IBS (as all E9x BMWs without iDrive or BMW Assist).

If battery registration is solely for the IBS to function correctly, I shouldn't need to do that, right?

[MtBMW73]

Originally Posted by MtBMW73

I didn't see this question asked so apologize if it was and I missed it.

For vehicles without IBS, does the battery need to be registered? My 2013 E92 was not equipped with IBS (as all E9x BMWs without iDrive or BMW Assist).

If battery registration is solely for the IBS to function correctly, I shouldn't need to do that, right?

I think I found the answer to my question:

"A BMW battery registration only needs to be performed on vehicles with a power management system, which includes an intelligent battery sensor (IBS) attached to the negative terminal cable of their vehicle (see image below)."

https://bmwrepairguide.com/bmw-batte...y-replacement/

[JoshS98]

Feel like I'm losing my mind here

Changing from a dead 90amp acid battery to a 80amp AGM battery.

I've coded my new battery using NCSexpert. I read the file from the cas, it shows 80ah_agm. I send the file to the CAS, it writes successfully.

I edit the FA to be –A080 and write that to the CAS and FRM. It writes successfully and saves successfully.

I register the new battery

I check INPA and it shows 91amps for the battery.

I've checked everything, it all saves. It's all been coded, it's all been sent to the car. INPA refuses to show it as an 80a_agm. It just says 91amps

I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. I follow the guide exactly, I get absolutely no errors. Everything saves fine and can be read back as the correct data.

Is INPA wrong? At a complete loss here.

I even found this video and followed it again

No matter what I do to the CAS and FA. INPA insists that the battery is 91amps

[JWL3]

Great post, I was all the way to the part where you program the FRM when the FRM refused to respond. Turned out somehow it got fried when I took the battery off. Apparently this is so common that owners joke that your FRM dies if you so much as talk sh* about it.

Anyone else this happen to? How on earth does anyone change their own batteries?


I spent $190 on the AGM battery at Costco, $28 on the D+CAN cord, wasted countless hours researching how to do this. Only to end up frying my FRM and paying $600 for an indie shop to repair the FRM for me. I ended up spending MORE than if I joke took it to the dealership or indie shop to replace the battery in the first place.